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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About fishgoh0nk

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    Southern California Garrison

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  1. Thanks Glen, very helpful info especially on the fiberglass cracking under strain, definitely the info I'm looking for. How thick would you say the jimmi material is? I'd assume it's a lot thicker than ABS vacuum molded material, would you say filling the thicker material with bondo is easier than patching ABS with paste/fiiller?
  2. So the armor bug bit hard and I'm looking for TLJ armor now. I've browsed a lot of TFA and TLJ builds and couldn't find an apples to apples comparison in regards to weight, comfort and maintainability (probably because of how new the armors are). I'm hoping to draw input from people that have built, or worn from the different vendors, mainly jimmiroquai's and another ABS vendor in regards to the aforementioned aspects. I like thickness and high durability as I'm not the most graceful person; but I wouldn't want anything too heavy, especially on the head. Repairs - I'm familiar with repairing ABS; but are there any benefits to the material the jimmy armors use in terms of modding/fixing?
  3. Wouldn't trust it, reverse image search shows it on several questionable sites, so its possibly not original or captured by the actual seller/owner.
  4. I would putty those cracks on the main tube body, I did not and they do show slightly after paint. Regrets haha
  5. I added some putty to mine for some seams, especially front barrel shroud to receiver, that one definitely needs patching. I used paint+primer , then dulled it with another layer of flat top coat to deaden the texture.
  6. Good luck on the build! Completed mine from trooper96 a month ago and I ABSOLUTELY love it! Be sure to go slow and support the weaker parts while sanding. Crazy glue was my best friend.
  7. Lol no concern now, someone bought it.
  8. Not sure if the powers that be would agree with my methods, but I didn't like the gap formed between the lower plate and the shin where spiders and other vermin can crawl up into, so I used some heat to shape the plate onto my shins for a flush profile. While the e6000 was drying and the plate clamped (use non marring clamp feet on non conforming points), I masked the exposed shin with painters tape and used a low heat setting and slowly heated the plate. As the plate softened, the clamping force flexed into the crevasses.
  9. Hot water pour is pretty safe. Just be sure to apply pressure on the joints and pour water on the neighboring areas as well. To clarify, unless you're doing a sharp bend, all areas affect the curvature of the plastic, so you also have to heat the support areas to achieve max bend without fold. I usually allow it to cool while under pressure until it's mildly warm or hardens, whichever first.
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