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fishgoh0nk

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About fishgoh0nk

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    James

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  1. Just recently did this to my helmet - I used this thread to help me make my lining choice so I thought posting this here might help someone in the future with some ideas.
  2. Hope everyone's doing well. It's good to use the time in self quarantine to work on the build. Still waiting for my weld nuts to come in for the helmet lens mounts, been roughly over a month and they're still on back-order, big bummer. I was thinking about liner options for the helmet, and I really didn't want foam inserts or anything that would make me heat up, I pretty much sweat only on my head, and quite a bit too, so i definitely wanted some air-flow and after much research here, I opted to use a hardhat liner. The liners are fairly cheap, almost universal, but the tricky part was attaching it to the helmet itself with the ability to replace the harness when worn without un-gluing, so I made these key slot clips.
  3. So... while sheltering in place, I really wanted to work on some stuff. Unfortunately the hardware vendor still is sitting on some weld nuts I placed back in Februrary... It's imported from Asia, so I'm guessing there's probably some delay due to COVID19. I wanted to glue the weld nuts in place before painting... I got impatient, so plastidipping I went. Masking made the TK face look a bit halloween-ish, good idea for a jackolantern? 3 Coats I wanted to cut my ear holes for Tony's SHA hearing system - I have some grommets to stabilize and hold the left/right ear mics. Used a 1/2 inch spade drill bit - Running it clockwise would crack and not make a perfect hole, so the trick is to drill in and reverse the bit as soon as the spade blade touches the surface, press down and the circular motion will mill out the hole. Then I painted the missing corners of the frown, the one on the right gave me a ton of trouble - got sick of modifying the stroke, wiped it all off and repainted it. Goof off surface spray works good as a thinner/modification tool Oh yea, then I made an armor stand.
  4. Hey Kalani, any way possible you can share this miraculous pigment source with me?
  5. For science and documentation purposes, here's a 1 hour dry time for Latex Acrylic - Behr Marquee, base Ultra Pure White, MQ330, Semi Gloss at varying wet sanded grid on Anovos Gen 1 220 Grit 320 Grit 400 Grit 600 Grit 800 Grit 800 Grit with a Wooster Semi Gloss brush 1200 Grit
  6. Hopefully they'll have better matching scanners than home depot - looks like the shade i got has a little too much green/not enough violet/red. I'll see who I can find in my vicinity, and at the same time I'll be trial-and-erroring. I'd love to share the automotive paint match color with this forum if I get a good match.
  7. Not sure where to buy matched spray paint... unless you have a recommendation? I did buy a can of the cheapo 98cent/can paint to try, but I haven't gone outside yet haha
  8. I definitely plan to... I've taken this long to do everything, wouldn't want a few hours to ruin all of that The sheen from the 800 looks pretty good, but I'm guessing it's not going to matter since I'll need to wet sand the brush lines out. Any tips (besides doing a pour) to prevent brush lines? Or am I just going to have to wet sand + repeat?
  9. Hopefully everyone's safe! I took a field trip to the local hardware store and got a panel matched with latex acrylic paint - I'm sure I'll be wet sanding this to smooth out brush lines, or do a pour... not sure what I'm hoping to get... all of this is to save me from having to learn how to air brush. First off is trying to find the right grit to use with ABS - this is paint + primer, I'm thinking I should've aerosol primed first regardless... I guess we'll see how it turns out after a cure and wet same and a high gloss clear coat. Update - On second thought, I probably should've used one of my better brushes... this brush was definitely too rough/coarse... I'm starting to like the 800 grit. I'll do another panel with a finer brush and post an update.
  10. I think it's time I learned how to airbrush...
  11. So I got ABS pasting my thigh seams, but I think I should've gone the thinner seam route - I didn't know how bubbly ABS paste could be - I think I have a density problem - the shade of ABS on some of the areas seem a bit darker - would it be better to paint at this point? I thought polishing might help it, but not really
  12. I'm with you that I should probably leave cutting till the end, I'm not super familiar with ABS paste, I've used it recently to patch some helmet holes, but wasn't sure if working on it with an exacto would cause any cracking, also I didn't account for the bottom edge when making my fake return edges since I was determined to cut it off. I thought I was pretty much done with the thighs minus ABS paste, is there something I need to look for to judge the placement/type of mobility cuts after that step?
  13. I think need them - so far the fit is not bad, but a few bends have contact and are digging into the legs. I also wanted to make the cuts before pasting, per Joseph's comment:
  14. I'm thinking due to how wide my thighs are, angled mobility cuts may give me a better look that rounded. Any thoughts? Rounded looks kind of weird when the curvature is flattened to not go past the raised edges. Angled, I can at least prevent going past the raised edges and stretch the cut as wide as the thigh.
  15. Don't know yet - I'm not sure if i should cut more or cut less? (the two photos I posted have been shopped to give me an idea of what my cuts would look like - replaced blue tape color with black) I think I should cut more (2nd picture) - I think I won't care about the butt pinching as long as I'm styling' Update - Based on your comment, I took it as a good-to-go so I cut along the lines of image #2 - Currently drying some return edge reinforcement and prepping the seams for ABS paste so I can't try it on right now - hopefully it fits well.
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