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The belt should now be complete! Holster (from Trooper Bay) and drop boxes installed. The button covers added with the outside covers offset more to the ends (thanks Glen for pointing that out). If something seems off, please let me know. Now to the Shoulder Bells!!!

As you can see from the title of the picture it says “approximate”. We are talking a difference of 2 to 3 mm tops with the size of rivets, edge vs. center measurement. I would imagine as long as you’re consistent - e.g. keeping your rivets on the same plane, not crooked or at a diagonal - I do not see the DO’s denying EI/Centurion because your rivets are 2mm “off”. AFAIK no-one has taken calipers to a film used suit anyway, so the best we have is approximate.

Looks good! Maybe cut the top of the cover strip a bit more so it doesn't stick out? Regarding the gap, you can easily fill it with ABS Paste (How to Apply) or Sugru. Its really easy, helps with the Centurion no-gap requirement and was done for the screen-used armors. Hope this helps and good luck!

So the ammo belt is put on they just need to be painted. And here is the left thigh complete but they don´t fit perfectly on the bottom and I can´t get them to stick together even with glue and a extra piece of ABS.

I originally posted this in my Hero build thread, but I'm now reposting it here for more visibility: Hero Belt - Removable Holster w/ Snaps (HOWTO) As part of my effort to be able to avoid redundancy, I plan on swapping my holster between my hero and stunt belts. I would also like the option to swap out my E-11 holster for an SE-14R holster, or an imperial binder holder at some point in the future. I could just use the chicago screws I have been using, but I'm not a huge fan as 1.) they scratch up my kidney plate and 2.) they take time to remove and re-install. So, I present an alternative solution, using pop rivets and snaps to allow for easy removal while still staying screen accurate. Step 1: Using a 3/16" drill bit, manually drill out the center of a male snap fitting. I am using Tandy line 24 nickel plates snaps, but any snap of the correct size would probably do. Even though these snaps have a 3/16" center hole, it is just a tad too small to allow a similar sized pop rivet through the hole. Step 2: Place your snap on the inside of the belt (facing armor) and push a 3/16" aluminum pop rivet through the opposite side: (Thanks @Hoda!) Next, using a rivet gun, set the rivet inside the snap. Hold the snap and rivet tightly together as you start pulling the rivet through the gun - this ensures a nice snug fit with no gaps. The ball bearing may fall out, but the rivet should have deformed enough to hold the snap on tightly. You may need to use the snap setting tool to clean up/compress the interior if this happens. Step 3: Repeat four more times (or two, for a Stunt belt!). The end result should be something like this: Step 4: Mount female snaps to the holster as normal. The holster can now be snapped to the belt and removed as needed: I find the domed side is more resistant to scratching armor than the slotted heads of the chicago screws I was using previously. In may case, I'm re-using a holster I got second hand (came with the extra Anovos bits) so there were a few extra holes I didn't need. See my Stunt build thread for more details. So, there you have it. For any additional holsters, just repeat Step 4, making sure your holes line up with the snaps. I made a photocopy of one of the holster straps before installing the snaps so I can use it as a template down the road. If swapping between Stunt and Hero belts the uppermost snaps will sit behind the belt, un-used.

You may want to tone down your weathering a little, if you look at your reference image your provided (and the one below) there is not as much collection of weathering on the inner edges of the cover strips. Note that like many of the other game CRL's we see the thigh ammo strip attached higher on the knee. No curves on the shoulder bells they have a sharp corner. Drop box location is further inwards and not on the end of the belt. Butt plate is more curved like ROTJ. In this reference there are no large tabs on the shoulder strap fronts, also a holster is present but attached behind the belt (not seen in the other references) Also providing as many references as you can for the LMO's to review makes there job a little easier Note also in these references boots have white soles like ROTJ

Maybe it’s my CAD training…

Looking Good Chris. If you haven't glued the covers yet, I would suggest to trim the edges a little to flat them more. Reference Images

Centurion is kind of the plan… maybe Made my left side snap strips, and glued them into each side. Used paper to figure out the pattern I ended up with. (Hard to keep everything exact) then made 2 layer 2 inch elastic straps that fit over those. (That’s Ken for the idea!) then put holes in the centers of the paper template. used a silver sharpie poked through the back to mark the snap points on each strap. I used a clear plastic scrap (not pictured) with the hole size for the punch in it to help draw the dots for the punch to help placement. And the straps are folded and glued around the snap areas with e6000 first to hold them flat.

Absolutely loving some of your build ideas. Foam in the dropboxes and spacers on the snaps – doing these in my next build. Keep up the good work! You’ll be approved in no time. Hope to see you at centurion.

Sure thing. I only mention little things like this as you’re aiming for Centurion. It’s the little bits that make a big difference to the final piece. No worries if you prefer the idealised look. Just perhaps check with the DO team along the way to see if they’d accept certain compromises at Centurion level. [emoji16]

Yes the top cover strip will be trimmed down more, but I wanted to do like a clean up after the shins are completed as well. So probably in about two weeks.

I personally prefer the rounded cover strips but I´m still debating on going with a more screen accurate look to keep it uniform.

Nice work. Very neat. :-) With the top of the coverstrip, personally, I’d always recommend that a coverstrip never exceeds the length of the armour piece that you’re attaching it to. This is based on screen used suits. (More about that here: ) Also, unless you are preferring the rounded coverstrip ends, the originals were cut at approximately 45° angles. If you are aiming for screen accurate (rather than idealised), that’s another option you could take. Coverstrip ends - examples: As always, these are just suggestions. [emoji16]

SO this update is a bit belated, but we've been busy! I'm going to start with the finished chroming first, as that was the last big step! Ultimately I believe she came out beautiful, and Celebration was a great Debut! Close-ups in the garage - Pre-Decals!

Hello, I'm Jake from Starkiller Garrison in Pennsylvania. I've been in the 501st Legion for 6 years as a ROTJ TB and as a 501st ROTS CloneTrooper. Been trooping with my son whose a Rebel Fleet Trooper for a while as well. I'm almost completed on a TLJ Praetorian Guard which should be ready soon. Just ordered armor from WTF to start a ANH Hero. Ready to join the ranks of the classic Star Wars trooper. When it gets here, I'll be looking for helps from all of you.

Thank you [emoji1374] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking forward to how your set up works, and as always thanks for the support.

You'll be amazed just how much removing that small will make to your ability to see

Nice job on the teeth. Up to you on the eyes, but, I like to keep the corners nice and sharp. Here’s some reference photos:

Congratulations!!

The uk garrison will be hosting the 501st involvement in this event , keep checking their forum and social media for announcements . Early days yet , but my hotel is booked .

Nice work, well don

Thanks Nick. Took me a while to remember where I had this photo, but, this is the RS right thigh itself. As you’ll see, there’s not too much of an offset on their original suit compared with the replica. Looking at the comparison photo further down, I think that their original thighs might me a little smaller in circumference than your build, which explains the slight differences. This is NOT a problem, just might lead to some differences here and there. (When you watch their video tutorial for the thighs and hear the measurements, they are super super skinny! I have it a try but their original sizes were too slim for my legs). Personally, I’d consider trimming the longer side (and coverstrip) to bring it a bit closer to the RS suit and to other screen used suits. Another screen used suit comparison. I’d maybe consider something a little like this.

Take special care to not rivet it on upside down. I speak from experience. I put mine on upside down at first... Curved back edge closet to your boots.

Hello trooper! I agree that the color grey could be a little darker and closer to the CRL, but I also agree that is a beautiful pack and you have done great work! The only other thing that jumped out was the black area on the top center tube/box - most of us have an area of grey above and below, but yours appears to be a solid stripe with the screws all the way at the edge, so it may need to be redone to match at the DO's discretion. A minor detail on an otherwise outstanding build. Good stuff!

looking great! Congratulations

Exams are almost done which is nice, between studying I have managed to work on some more files. Here is a sneak peak at the new V3 files that will be available to purchase soon as well. First up are new leg and arm moulds: Now for the full show off. Its a bummer I cant show the dips and bumps as well as I can in the renders so ill have to show em off at a later stage once theyre printed. The little details and accoutrements are still being worked on but the main parts are almost ready. Please note some small details are missing like arm squares and also theyre still quite sharp and havent undergone the softening procedures yet. Here is a comparison to my old file:

That’s great news! Hotel is booked for my first Celebration ever. Sooooo excited.

I've been looking forward to this. Hotel is booked, friends are alerted, fingers are crossed that we can actually go

Hotel booked too...A lot of things can change until then, but...

Really, really very nice work!!! It looks like new!!!!

Awesome work!

Nice work, looking great

Hoi Goldammer, Welcome aboard! [emoji1309]

Hello and welcome!

Welcome to FISD! You will find lots of help and information here to get to to your finished armour. None of us knew how to assemble armour with our very first kits, so you are in good and experienced company. once again, welcome aboard.

Welcome Goldammer! No worries about experience with armor building. It's a fun learning experience with lots of great support here on the FISD.

Welcome aboard trooper!

Hello Goldammer, welcome to FISD!!! Keep us updated, and as Mario says, good luck with your project!!! .

Hello, welcome to FISD. ! Good luck with your project ! check out the links Glen gave you and let us know for further help.

Hello and welcome aboard, you will find a lot of info in the Rebels Stormtrooper area https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/165-star-wars-rebels/ You could contact WTF (Walt's Trooper Factory) on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/waltstrooperfactory The 501st legion has a base standard for costume acceptance, these are the CRL's (costume reference library) you can find Rebels TK here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_rebels There are currently only 5 approved Rebels TK's so as you can imagine there aren't a lot of build threads to follow here are a few https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/198-rebels-tk-build-threads/ This is also a great thread full of other info for Stormtroopers

Hello there, bbb...

Since I'm stuck inside because #corona, I decided to follow this tutorial and make one of a belt for the ANH Stunt. Now I can swap out my belts easy! A few addition from my learning this afternoon: Drilling the center of the snap really wasn't as easy as I thought it was going to be. I had to do it slowly, for what it's worth. I wish I had a more stable way to secure the snap. Have the right sized pop rivet! I was struggling for a bit fitting the rivet through the snap that I drilled w/ the 3/16" drill bit. Turns out I grabbed the wrong rivets. Doh! Fixed that and it was easy sailing. I did have to take a snap setting tool and smack the interior a few times. This is a visualization of "step 2" from Brien's instruction above - "placing your snap on the inside of the belt facing armor and push a pop rivet through the opposite side" Thank you, Brien!