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Morgi

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About Morgi

Member Title

  • Position
    Expert Infantry

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany

FISD Info

  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Luca
  • 501st ID
    66744
  • 501st Unit
    German Garrison
  • Troops Completed
    10

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Hey Daniel! There is a mentor-mentee program on here known as the Attaché Program. You can find an overview of the program and the Attachés here. The Attachés for the Badlands Garrison seem to be @Pyrates and @wook1138 so feel free to reach out to them directly on here or wait for them to see your query Whilst neither are listed as ROTK experts they might still be a help with building or simply finding the right resources. As it seems you've already found the R1TK area and started a build thread, you might find prior chiming in from all over the world as well if you need help. I hope this helped, good luck and enjoy your white armor!
  2. Those look awesome! Gotta love all those little extras that just add to a TK - always makes for fun interactions with the visitors
  3. [12] 22/05/2022 -- Galactic Days in the Zoo Münster, Day 2 On this weekend members from several clubs united to spread the love of Star Wars in the zoo and to raise money for charity. We got to walk around the zoo, interact with the visitors, march a parade and have fun with each other. Despite temperatures higher than expected and less clouds than announced, we took this opportunity to interact especially with and for the young fans. We got asked to take hundreds of pictures and got photographed doing silly stuff all over the area. I found a new friend in CC-75367 with whom I ended up spending almost the entire day melting in the sun and goofing around. From trying to hold onto the monkey bars to going onto the swing, we both explored the playground as much as our armors allowed. https://i.imgur.com/1q8qcfV.mp4 | https://imgur.com/a/yvDSR3S (Yes, that's me on the trampoline. No, there were no cracks afterwards. Maybe my helmet almost flew off of my head.) For lunch we got ourselves some crepes, before realizing that unfortunately those are quite hard to eat with your bucket on. So we took a short break before going back to arresting rebels and causing mayhem spreading peace, justice, freedom and security. All in all, an amazing day that left me exhausted, grinning and not sure how my armor survived everything. TK-66744 signing off
  4. Well, hello there! Welcome to the last part of my helmet build. Lenses, frown cover and padding Supplied with any RS helmet kit, you get a roll of this thin green foil that seems way to flimsy to actually be a part of the helmet. You can simply add this by poking first one hole into it, then fitting it, so it lays flat over the eye-openings and then poke a second hole in there. The foil is held in place via the upper ear screws. Then cut off areas that might hinder you in the future or where you simply don't need the foil, such as over the middle ear screws or at the frown. I tried my best to get the foil to lie flat over the eyes and got it into a position where there's few to no gaps between the plastic and the foil. Still had the same fabric as I used for my ANH Stunt, but only used one layer this time. This is thin, breathable fabric, so whilst it covers the view it does not completely prohibit air flow. I cut said fabric to about twice the size of the frown and then added glue to the areas marked in red. By only gluing those areas, I could glue it into the helmet in a way that allows for a visible teeth gap. Due to the fact that one can now see into the helmet by looking into the frown, I made sure to glue it high enough (higher than marked in the picture!) double-checking the position from below, to ensure that no hint of the inside of the helmet would be visible. Last, but not least, I added the padding. RS supplied chin straps, which go onto the ear screws and close underneath your chin, and star-shaped foam to stay close to screen accurate. In my humble opinion, the chin strap is super uncomfortable and useless if you got good padding (unless you're planning on doing wild stunts) and the star foam makes the helmet sit way too high and doesn't allow me space for my glasses. Tino (T-Jay) gave me some of this thick foam to use instead (thank you!), which goes over the green foil and allows for enough space to still wear glasses whilst trooping. Super useful, and without any padding at the top of the helmet it gives me this good fitting helmet.
  5. Thanks Glen, and with an important addition as well: Don't know Frog Tape, but in Germany we got this awesome stuff called "Kreppband". Multi-purpose, essential and on top of it painter's tape! I've used this tape for painting and fitting and it works super well for either. Never had a single spot with paint bleed and it was strong enough to hold parts when fitting. Something that helps would be balaclavas. I don't know about you guys but here in Germany almost everyone wears one of those, hides everything up to the nose, so nothing is visible through the frown (not guaranteed with mesh, unless you have a lot of layers one can often spot the skin underneath) and, more importantly, nothing is visible from underneath. Those kids are small enough, they don't care about our frown, but they can and will try to get a glimpse into our bucket from below and unless you got everything blacked out well enough, a balaclava would be your best bet. Just look at this photo above, even used those in Rogue One Guess that's just one of those preferences that can differ. I prefer to have a teeth gap visible, as for me that's just part of a screen accurate stormtrooper. I found a good solution that will have neither face, nor mesh showing, but still allows for that gap for my ANH helmet, so I'll be replicating that with this helmet as well. Side-view picture from my ANH Stunt build-thread As always, thanks for the feedback and the opportunity to talk about stormtroopers
  6. Helmet Paint As this is an ESB there weren't many areas that needed paint: the ears, the frown and the vocoder. Due to a need for two layers of paint and the high air humidity we got right now this took me a bit longer than I anticipated, but still got done easily enough. As I already had my paint out, I also took care of the ear screws and gave them a coat of white paint. I got the outside of the brow trim at the angled look you got to see in the previous pictures and as I had left the inside straight, it was a simple matter of putting the brow trim on the other way round to fix this issue and give it those straight edges. Hope this looks better No full bucket pictures of this yet, gotta wait for me to add the green lens foil (and the fabric behind the frown) next. Almost done, this went quicker than I had hoped, even though I stretched the work out a lot just to have something to do for a bit longer
  7. Does that mean, mesh behind the frown will soon be prohibited at Centurion, as that's not seen on a single Stormtrooper, but gaps between the teeth are very common to spot? ... asking for a friend Back on topic: I'll probably trim the other side of the brow appropriately for Centurion then and keep running around with the version that I like better. Thanks for your input!
  8. Lucky me found a few images supporting the angled cut Any DO wanna weigh in on this issue? Hovi Tips Not exactly that difficult either, although the small patches of black paint did mean a bit more extra work. Decals Now, as Joseph so kindly pointed out in this thread my decals are FX/NE Trooperbay decals. Lesson learned: double check before you order -- just because you got the link from the FISD does not mean it's guaranteed to be the right decals. Also, do not just hand over the order to your parents, who will then notice that it's cheaper via e-bay. I do not know where the mix-up happened, but at least they're ESB Decals and they fit the helmet (can't say the same for the original tears on the helmet, so I'm lucky that I'm going for a slightly idealized build ) Some references taken from Joseph's CRL Reference. As there's a disturbing lack of info out there on how to apply decals, here's what I put together with the advice of TK-248 (Tommi) and T-Jay (Tino): First get yourself some very soapy water, which you can use as a help to slide the decal into the correct position. Then dab said soap water onto your armor, making sure the entire area where you will place the decal is not only clean, but also covered. This allows you to correctly position your decal. Then carefully heat said decal with a hair dryer, which help it conform to the shape of your helmet and stick. If necessary and possible, cut the decal to size. Here's the end result. I'm looking forward to feedback
  9. Once upon a time whilst scrolling through the FISD I found this very interesting thread about our beloved Mr No Stripes. Might be worth a read if you like this trooper
  10. Well, considering that they're ESB Decals ordered via and sent from Trooperbay, I'd certainly hope so. Maybe theyve updated their decals or I chose a different option of ESB decals? As they fit and look like ESB I think they should be just fine though, right?
  11. Just faced the same problem with my own ESB build and from what I can tell, this thread here is your best bet: Here's what I did just this afternoon (build thread update to follow): had the decals from Trooperbay, used soapy water to help move them into position, then used a hair dryer to make them lay flush against the plastic. Worked really well Alternatively you can also use decal fluid to apply them with instead. If there's any interest, I could go into more detail on this when I write my build thread update on this particular step. Hope this was helpful!
  12. Thanks, Dan! Awesome references, love especially how they show the curve of the brow trim. If I ever go for a fully-screen accurate replica build it'll be interesting to see how one can add that -- my brow always seems to be on the lower side As evident with the S-trim as well, I've changed a few details from screen-accurate to more idealized, trying to find an in-between that I like. Therefore I think I'll stick to the angled cut at the edge of the brow trim for now. Still, given the current cut of the brow trim a change to more screen-accurate is still possible, so if this ever becomes a Centurion requirement (it isn't as of now, last I checked), I can still easily change it around, doing what you suggested. Thanks for your feedback Glad to hear that, Mario! Thankfully I got the ears done for now, so I can move on to more interesting parts
  13. The armor seeming like Rubies (RotJ Style with a messed up ANH-bucket seems slightly familiar) isn't the worst thing. They didn't manage to suit up correctly. The one on the right has managed to switch his handguards and the one on the left has two left biceps Not gonna look for more details, I'll probably be happier ignoring this
  14. Helmet Ears and S-Trim After a few hours of work (gotta love fitting the ears...) I got to a point where I was fairly happy with the look and over-all appearance. It's not gap-free, but neither were the originals, so that's alright. Truly nothing extraordinary about this part of the build except for the fact that it was very time consuming and sometimes a bit frustrating. The S-trim in comparison was fairly easy and quick, a simple matter of wrapping the material around the bottom and squishing everything into a tight fit that will hold the S-trim in position without any need for glue. Whereas the original helmets had the ends meet at the back of the helmet, I went with the option of moving this to underneath the vocoder. This simply helps to hide any potential gaps and, in my humble opinion, looks a bit better. As always, I'd appreciate feedback. Given what's coming up soon, I'd also love advice regarding the application of decals, as I've never done so before
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