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One complete set of arms. I found the thicker outer cover strips pull the forearms out a little. Probably still needs a little shaping but not as drastic as before. Thigh trimming begins tomorrow.

17 spots and counting down . Last approved EIB #983 Nora (TK26590) Spain Ole Ole !!

hombreeeeeeee! Que alegria compañera, en breve tendremos una mujer centurión ANH entre las filas españolas y te sentaras en la mesa de los centuriones del FISD. Gran trabajo hermana!

Pleasure to meet you, Steve. My personal opinion, for what it’s worth, is you simply can’t go wrong with the “OG” of Star Wars costumes...The Stormtrooper. I may be a bit biased as I’ve wanted Stormtrooper armor for as long as I can remember. Brian Muir, @vadersculptor, struck gold with this iconic design that is immediately recognizable by all generations, not to mention, the FISD is a great community. Hats off to him and the FISD, and good luck with your choice and build, no matter what it is. ...and there’s my 2 cent.

Progress!!! I finished the eyes and frown today!! Stephanie | Cadet #2025

So, I was having the boy try things on yesterday, and suddenly Cameron began complaining that the forearms were too tight around the wrist. Wait, whaaa??? They weren't too tight before! OMG, nooooooooo..... I Dremeled the insides of the wrist to open them up, but there really wasn't much to be removed. Cameron was gracious about the little bit of modding I did to the forearms by saying, "It's fine, Mom, really. It won't hurt that much. It'll look fine. I can take it." He was being really sweet because he knew how much work went into everything so far, and he didn't want me to have to make even more parts. I explained to him that the good thing about having a 3D printer is that we can make new parts as he grows, and I had expected this to happen. Welp, I knew it was bound to happen sooner or later... the boy needs larger forearms now- even before his first troop. Okaaaay, so those parts won't just magically appear themselves! I turned on the printer, scaled a larger forearm, resliced the file, and am currently reprinting new (larger) forearms and forearm greeblies. The old scale was 76, 76, 73, and the new scale is 78, 80, 73 to allow for a wider (and slightly more oval) opening at the wrist for more comfort. I printed out a test wrist piece first to verify the X and Y would be large enough, but not too big. Each forearm takes about 12 hours to print and the greeblies will take another 8 or so. Nice thing is that the forearms print all in one piece, so sanding and painting will be fairly easy. Time to buy some more 2K Gloss!

Hello All, New to these forums. As with most, trying to get into the 501st. Still a ways to go. I've built a legacy TK already (Anovos), though I need a proper blaster still. Presently working on my First Order TK (KB). My Anovos Tk on the right.

Any cracks I like to add support/glue from behind then on the front grind into the crack a little and fill will bondo/filler so it won't show in the paint. For the pin holes hopefully spray putty will sort a few of those, if not some final glaze/blade putty should help, a lot of fine sanding. You may even find with the black areas they won't show as much. Some differences between the clip area from TFA to TLJ Here's a nice reference for the teeth area

Thanks for the support Justin! @gmrhodes13those are the pics I was looking for, thanks for posting them here! I don't think I'll trim the lower step, as the pics aren't consistent like you said, it isn't in the CRL, and no one else has done it. I cut some off the barrel ends, slimming it down a bit for me. Then I trimmed around the bottom, so there's less overhang. Then I took the Dremel to the belt! The thing got away from me a couple times, but hopefully it's an easy putty fix... I sanded the cuts to 220 and they aren't too bad! I still need to round out the notches a little, but that'll happen another day. Tomorrow I want to tape together the chest/back/straps and fit the barrel. I'll trace a line around to give me an idea of how much to cut off the top (giving 2-3" overlap). I'll also trace the shoulder bells to even out the bottoms. I'll post pics tomorrow before I cut anything!

I’m gonna be #1,001. I can feel it.

Copy that! I'll post them later today when I get a chance. Thanks!

Dan, Looking good, keep at it.

Great. Let’s keep the momentum up y’all. 17 away. We got this.

LTM, The forearms spear to be 4 parts. these 3 ABS parts and a resin insert

Nora Escrich Tk 26590 EIB A4 Mario - Tk Spartan http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/26590-eib.png

Graciaaaaas

Gracias!, me pondré con los cambios pronto.

Congrats Nora Enviado desde mi SM-N950F mediante Tapatalk

Hi Nora, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: Todas la fotos solicitadas han sido aportadas, y en nombre de todo el D.O. Team, nos complace darte la bienvenida al rango de Experto de Infantería. Felicitaciones!! All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; En esta área revisamos los aspectos observados por otros Troopers y el D.O. team. Algunas observaciones serán sugerencias para mejorar la apariencia de tu armadura. In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armour. Empecemos por el casco. 1- La "Ceja" de tu casco está un poco baja, es más del tipo "Hero " que ANH como puedes ver en las imágenes de referencia . Es un ajuste que requiere recortar un poco el frente para que la ceja pueda subir. The "Brow trim" of your helmet is a little low, it is more of the "Hero" type than ANH as you can see in the reference images. It is an adjustment that requires a short cut in the front so that the eyebrow can rise. Reference Images 2-El recorte del contorno del ojo derecho está perfecto, el izquierdo tiene una pequeña saliente que le hace ver como entrecerrado, es un ajuste fácil de hacer con un Dremmel o un cutter. Your right eye cut looks perfect, but the left one has a small edge that make it looks like sleepy, this is an easy fix with a Dremmel or cutting tool. Reference Images 3-CRL for Basic level : Mesh may be used behind the frown to obscure the face of the wearer. Algo que caracteriza a los Stormtroopers es que somos anónimos , los niños y adultos en los Trooping ven con emoción a sus personajes y no se imaginan que dentro de esa armadura hay un fanático como ellos. Por esa razón es que procuramos, agregando una malla detrás de los "dientes" del casco, evitar que nuestro rostro sea visto a través de los orificios de los mismos. Por lo anterior sugerimos que agregues una malla a tu casco. Something that characterizes Stormtroopers is that we are anonymous. Children and adults in Trooping see their characters with emotion and do not imagine that within that armor there is a fanatic like them. For this reason, we try, by adding a mesh behind the "teeth" of the helmet, to prevent our face from being seen through the holes in them. We are suggesting to add the mesh to your helmet. Reference Images 4-Idealmente los tornillos de las orejas van alineados con la orilla trasera de los Traps de las sienes. Se menciona acá para tu consideración ya que es un ajuste mas elaborado. Ideally , the ear screws should go aligned with the rear edge of the Traps. It is mentioned here for your consideration as it is a more elaborate setting. Reference Images 5-En tu cuadro de botones de abdomen, en los dos botones inferiores la pintura sobrepasa e borde de estos, un aplicador o mondadientes con algún removedor de pintura, ( que no sea Acetona), resuelven el problema. Looking at your ab buttons panel, on the two lower buttons, the paint goes beyond the edge of these, an applicator or toothpick with some paint remover (other than Acetone), can solve the problem. Reference Images 6-Finalmente, los Rivet de la faja de munición de la pierna , conforme a las referencias deberían ir más centrados, no es algo que te afecte para nivel Centurión pero se hace notar para tu conocimiento y un futuro ajuste Your Thigh ammo pack rivet is a little off according to the references, This is not affecting you for level 3 but for a more screen accuracy we notice and let you know it and for future adjustments Reference Images *************************************************** Centurion Requirements; In this section we prepare you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. Esta sección te preparamos para el nivel Centurión, debido al nivel de detalle requerido, mayor que EIB, hay otros aspectos que se verán luego de manera que podríamos requerir fotos adicionales. Procuramos señalar la mayor cantidad de elementos posible, pero el grado de precisión final es responsabilidad del Trooper. ***************************************************** 1-Parece que la campana del hombro izquierdo es más larga que la del derecho y es más notorio cuando se comparan lado a lado. Para nivel 3 deben ser de la misma medida. It appears that the left shoulder bell is longer than the right one, and this is more apparent as seen in the side by side comparison. For level 3 these should be the same length. Reference Images 2-CRL: Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge. Los Rivets del costado izquierdo deben estar espaciados tomando en cuenta aprox. 20mm desde el borde superior y 10 mm del borde de retorno de la placa abdominal y lumbar como ves en la imagen de referencia. Este punto parece el más complicado , pero por experiencia te aseguro que se puede hacer. Tendrías que remover los Rivets superiores en ambas placas , rellenar los orificios con pasta ABS, lijar bien y hacer los nuevos a la distancia correcta. de la misma forma, en el FISD podemos ayudarte. The Ab/Kidney rivets must be spaced taking into account approx. 20mm from the upper edge and 10 mm from de return edge of the abdominal and kidney plate as you see in the reference image. This point seems the most difficult , but from my own experience I assure you that it can be done. You would have to remove the upper Rivets on both plates, fill the holes with ABS paste, sand well and make the new ones at the correct distance. As I told you before, we are here to help you. Reference Images 3-CRL: Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. El traslape entre tu placa de espalda y la placa lumbar es bastante notorio, en este caso posiblemente tendrías hacer varios ajustes , entre ellos recortar un poco la parte inferior de la placa de espalda. En el FISD puedes encontrar ayuda y retroalimentación para todos estos aspectos. The overlap between your back and kidney plate is quite noticeable, in this case you could possibly have to make several adjustments, including trimming the lower part of the back plate a bit . At FISD you can find help and feedback for all these aspects. Reference Images 4-CRL: Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top. Las placas abdominal y lumbar de tu armadura parecen estar un poco desalineadas, en ocasiones podría tratarse de un simple ajuste de correas elásticas. The Ab and kidney plates of your armor looks a bit misaligned , sometimes it's just a strapping issue that you may want to verify. Reference Images 5-CRL: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels Tu cinturón debe subir un poquito para estar perfecto, un truco muy utilizado es poner un par de piezas de velcro detrás y de esta forma evitar que se baje al frente. Your belt needs to go up a little to be perfectly, a widely used trick is to place a couple of small strips of Velcro behind belt to ensure it doesn't sag in the front Reference Images 6-CRL: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box Este es uno de los problemas más comunes que vemos, pero es bastante simple de abordar. Los bordes exteriores de los Drop Boxes deben alinearse con el borde exterior del cinturón de ABS. Un poco de E-6000 en la correa interior puede resolver este punto. This is one of the most common issues we see, but is quite simple to address. The outer edges of the drop boxes must align with the outer edge of the ABS belt. Some E-6000 on the inside strap will take care of this. Reference Images 7-Finalmente, las tiras de cubierta de tus pantorrillas deben cerrar justo e el centro, parece que habría que despegarlas y colocarlas correctamente. Finally, the cover strips of your calves should close right in the center, it seems that they would have to be detached and placed correctly. Reference Images Felicitaciones nuevamente Nora, tienes algunos retos por delante pero confiamos en que puedes lograr el siguiente nivel. Centurión.

Hi Wolf and welcome to the FISD! You will be very happy with your RWA kit. It is a very nice set of armor. Make sure you follow Dan's advice and head over to the UKG forums for guidance on the approval process. Have fun!

Hi Steve and welcome to the FISD! Like other have said, research is key here. There really is a lot to soak in. The most important decisions you can make is to figure out which stormtrooper you want to do and then research the armor vendors and make your decision. Do not think of this as a sprint. It's a marathon. Look through all of the build threads and there are even handy videos on youtube and trooperbay.com. Good luck with your build!

When you’re ready, be sure to start your thread over at www.ukgarrison.co.uk/forum. We can then guide you through to clearance. Best wishes Dan

Welcome to your new home Steve, I'm sure you are going to love it here.

Hey all! Lady trooper here working on my first TK. I recently received kit from WTF, and hope to start trimming and all that jazz soon. This project is not going to set any speed records and truth be told I'm feeling a bit daunted by the prospect. My TIE was a completed set so no building required there, and my Maladi was mostly fabric work, so this is the first time I'm really working with armor of this type. Then there's the height consideration. I'm excited though and looking forward to advice!

Thanks for the replies, as recommended, I measured the notch (25mm + 2mm for the slight return edge) and trimmed the side of the kidney plate removing the notch completley and 27mm worth of plastic. 　 After the trim, I did another test fit and found that it fits much better. As you can see, the front and back are closer in and looks better now. 　 As for the width, I'm still not sure if they appear too wide. When I wear the ab and kidney plate, it looks big on me. But when I have the chest and back plate as well, it looks just fine on me. 　 When I was wearing the ab/kidney plate , there was still plenty of room. How much room measurment should there be between myself and the armour? And should I bring the sides in some more or leave it as is? 　 Sorry if I appear to be nagging alot about the width, I just want to make sure I'm doing it right. And when I have confirmation that the torso has been reshaped and no longer requires editing, I can then start fixing the return edges and move on with something else.

Very nice work, well done

Sorry for the late reply. I haven't had a chance to get on here for a while. Thanks for the comments, that's what I was aiming for with my build thread...detailed and presentable. As for the hot water bath, the forearms did not align together and had too much tension. I was afraid of them popping out or splitting later on down the road. Many troopers had to go through the same process and reshape them in hot water to align them and ease the tension (and it worked). The torso (which I am still working on) is another story. Because I'm so skinny, I've trimmed to the required movie accurate guide lines and found that it looked too big on me. That I why I needed to reshape the kidney, butt and ab plate to fit my stick figure.

Welcome to FISD Steve.

A nice thread showing the forearms, top and base

Hello and welcome aboard, research is the key so you have a bit of reading in front of you, good luck and hope to see a build thread from you soon

I added a charging port at the end. Here is the charging port before I added to the blaster. I 3D printed a holder for the plug and also a backing for the spring. I then inserted a copper tube to run the wires through so I could still move the bolt and spring.

Looking good so far, sir! One thing I would suggest is to trim a little more of the return edges from the sides of the posterior plate. From what I can see, it looks as if the corner of the lower portion has a pretty sharp angle, which you want to avoid. Having a sharp angle anywhere you have return edges will increase the likelihood of splits/cracks. Rounding off those angles will help prevent this.

Muy bien Nora... Gracias por solucionarlo tan rápido !!! Very good Nora ... Thanks for fixing it so fast !!!

Hola Nora. Me alegro mucho de que hayas decidido presentar tu solicitud para EIB. Magnífica armadura de RS Props!!!... Seguro que @justjoseph63, @shashachu ó @TKSpartan estarán contigo enseguida. Suerte con tu solicitud!!! Hi Nora. I am very glad that you have decided to apply for EIB. Excellent armor of RS Props !!! ... Surely, @justjoseph63, @shashachu or @TKSpartan will be with you soon. Good luck with your application !!!

dark vs light the barrel is where i wasted most of my time today a lot of pinholes to cover and sand prob cover up some more imperfections and on to white hope to finish the upper body by the end of the month

Biceps are done! I am going to measure the leg cover strips for 25mm in front and 30mm in back and see how that fits after removing all of the upper return edge on the thighs.