Leaderboard

I checked what letters matched numbers on phone TK = 85 and added the 421, TK85421

Thanks to this thread, I've started amassing all the tools, supplies, etc. This was today's haul. Twelve magnets have been ordered, too. Dremel, mineral spirits, hammer, vise grips, etc. are all things I fortunately already own. Note the 1/4" wide white elastic--aiming for Centurion already! It sounds like the AP kit comes with snaps, rivets, and screws, so I am holding off on those to see what I end up with on BBB Day. Off to a good start!

Yea I'm not a fan of them and especially the 2x line I've had ton of problems with for different colors/projects. I've had folks recommend their pro line paints though, more expensive in the shiny chrome label cans that folks claim is so good, but don't nkow if anyone tried it on a FOTK. I've painted lot of kits before but never touched white and so many stories I've seen about ppl having cracking problems with how the FOTK is built. I just keep lucking out in finding a source to get my armor auto painted by a pro so almost giving up and just want to get out rattle cans and go at it. I know of course probably best course to go is to just start painting test pieces of plastic/armor and see the results.

So this is good? Put some sponge/foam to make the sniper knee poke out more Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So whilst building my FOTS I’m having to wait for a 3d model to be redone. I thought “I wonder how much of a TK I can print in that time?” So here we are. Back in 2015 I was going to do a FOTK but options were limited then, so I moved on. Decided to come back it now. Found some files that other than the bicep look pretty spot on and started printing furiously. Am using a CR-10s with a E3D volcano and Titan extruder. Started with the torso and in a week have printed Chest Shoulders Back/yoke TD plate Abs Ab boxes Belt boxes Forearms and hand plates are the same as the TS so they’re already done Blaster I’ve already printed using Germain’s files At the minute it’s just being held together with tape but hoping to get it all printed in the next two weeks and do a full kit up

If a picture paints 1,000 words then this photo review of @Hellhounds' rubber E-11 blaster will be an EU-expanse worth of information for any Trooper seeking a product comparable to the old Hyperfirms and the newer Praetorian blasters. The inspiration for this thread came from the fantastic comparison (thread) of a Hyperfirm (HFx) B-Grade rubber blaster verses that from Praetorian Blasters (PB), by @kman. In fact, the angles of my photographs are intended to replicate those used by kman, to provide the opportunity for close comparison of the three models. Essentially, these two threads should compliment each other. The Hellhounds Props (HHP) E-11s (among other blasters) are new as of October, 2019, and are currently available from Daniel directly, as well as from @TK-4510 on Trooperbay. As I understand it, this purchase is from the first run of a dozen blasters, and thus far there appear to be no user photos of these Hellhounds rubber E-11s on FISD. Daniel from HHP currently has threads mentioning his E-11 product here and here. Regarding Rubber Blasters For those of you unaware, these "rubber" blasters are actually constructed of a combination of foam and rubber, and may have some form of armature (solid framework) serving as the skeleton. The benefits of rubber blasters are primarily weight, durability, and safety. These rubbers are heavier than standard Hasbro and Rubies conversions, as well as most resin builds—providing a slightly more realistic helf—while still remaining light enough for hours of trooping. Fully metal E-11s can start to feel really heavy really quickly. As you'll see below, the HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz, or 2.19 lbs. Rubber blasters are also less likely to break if dropped, and if a component does come off, it will likely just need to be re-adhered, rather than reconstructed (resin or plastic may have cracked or shattered). Finally, rubbers are safer when trooping in close proximity to children who may wander outside the line-of-sight of a Trooper with a bucket on. A swing and impact of a rubber E-11 is less likely to injure innocent bystanders. The most obvious disadvantage of rubber props is that they are generally not as detailed and refined as their resin counterparts, but advancements in molding techniques are changing that. Now, to be clear, I am in no way associated with or being compensated by Hellhounds or any other blaster maker for this review; I am simply seeking to provide Troopers with data on a new product. Note, too, that throughout this post I will link to parts of the official FISD E-11 Blaster Reference thread (here is the Rogue One Reference), to provide additional insight and imagery. So, without further ado, open kman's thread below, split-screen your device, and feast your eyes on three types of rubber E-11s from this (US) side of the pond! NOTE: The images below may not appear as clear/crisp as they do at full resolution since the FISD/browser display compression isn't great. Clicking each photo will open a full-scale version which should present better clarity, at least in a web browser. HHP TOP DETAIL VIEW The Hellhounds Props (HHP) magazine appears to be closer in length to a Praetorian Blaster (PB), rather than the notoriously-shortened Hyperfirm (HFx). HHP appears to be just a hair shorter than PB, but I've also seen longer magazines on some images posted by Daniel on social media. Perhaps HHP magazine length is still being fine-tuned, but I may try to see if I can acquire a longer one. Additional, note that the HHP Hengstler counter includes the two soldering pins, while the PB and HFx do not. Finally, there is a HFx-quality seam on the HHP between the rail and top T-track, but the HHP T-tracks' quality and installation into the venting holes matches those of PB. HHP TOP VIEW Immediately obvious from this view is that the HHP has a static (non-movable) aluminum D-ring installed, similar to that from PB, but the PB version is rubber cast directly to the end cap. This HHP is similar to HFx in that it does not have a faux recoil spring behind the charging handle and bolt, like that provided by PB. Notice a slight tinge of brass on the scope, and a pretty minimal and clean seam line on top (much like PB). HHP FRONT VIEW This is where further distinctions are easily identifiable between the three blasters. In general, the HHP has cleaner lines than a B-Grade HFx, but PB comes out on top with the crispest lines and no visible seams. One of the HHP front scews is excellently made (PB quality level), and the other is adequate. The front sight is also correctly thin, matching that of PB and differing from HFx's thick block, and the HHP barrel bore dept on the HHP is 0.5" (1.27 cm). Note that, with blaster in-hand, the tip of the HHP appears cleaner than this close-up photo presents. Macro photography tends to reveal blemishes which would otherwise be indistinguishable to the naked eye from normal real-life use distances. HHP BACK VIEW As previously mentioned, the HHP includes an aluminum D-ring (woohoo level 3), while the PB included a molded rubber one, and HFx none at all. Once again, PB came out ahead with the most detailed knurling on the rear sight, followed by HHP, with HFx at the bottom of the pile. The rear end of the scope appears to be of similar quality on all three E-11s, and notice the more visible brass color on the rim of the scope (also present on the front, seen later). HHP RIGHT SIDE Stormtroopers and Femtroopers, I present to you, a METAL SCOPE RAIL, with open space underneath! You read that right. HHP finally provides us with an OT E-11 without a solid rubber rail, which was and still is the standard with HFx and PB. This was actually one of the two major factors in my decision to go with HHP (price was the other). Of course, doing so sacrifices the recoil spring and the clearing strip and extractor detail on the ejection port. Make note, too, that this HHP scope does not have the round knob on the right side. HHP LEFT SIDE An iconic angle of the E-11. The trigger guard appears to be of similar thickness to than on an HFx, which may be just a hair thicker than a PB. The guard feels very sturdy and I'd have no concerns holding my index finger on it during a long troop. The trigger itself is cut out in the same fashion as an HFx, with more open space below and behind it than that provided on a PB, and the HHP trigger feels a bit flexible, which leads me to believe it is cast in solid rubber. Additionally, aluminum appearance is present beneath the selector switch on the HHP, a detail left out by HFx but included by PB. HHP BACK QUARTER VIEW This perspective highlights the metal scope rail, though take note that the rail is thicker than it appears in this image (due to camera lighting). I spoke with HHP about the strength of the rail prior to purchasing, and Daniel assured me that it is solid—which I agree with. That scope isn't going anywhere, and I do not foresee any sag in the long-term. Notice the screw head on the underside of the rail, which secures the scope (a second is obscured from view by the counter). Additionally, this angle, once again, shows the magazine length, which is significantly longer than the HFx but perhaps just a hair shorter than the PB. And finally, two notes regarding the rear sight area. First, the horizontal retaining pin area has been molded as a recessed space on the HHP, as opposed to raised and textured (faux) pin on both the HFx and PB. Second, though not easily discernible in any of these images, there is a locking notch band at the end of the receiver tube on the HHP. HHP BOTTOM VIEW Another major differing point of this HHP blaster with PB (unsure of HFx), is that Hellhounds hollowed-out and split the arms (wishbone) of the folding stock. On the Praetorian the two arms are actually a solid piece molded with and surrounding the trigger guard. The second photo below shows this up-close. AWESOME! The only other distinguishing feature from this angle is the length of the magazine, and the already-discussed aluminum appearance beneath the selector switch. HHP EXTRA VIEW This angle shows several features which are missing from the HHP blaster but were included by PB and HFx. The ejector knob is missing on the HHP, as are some greeblies on the magazine which are present on the PB (but also not included on the shortened HFx mag). These omissions, and perhaps also some missing details on the front and rear of the power cylinders are perhaps the greatest shortcomings of this Hellhounds blaster. It's possible that the ejector knob fell off in-transit, so I will be reaching out to Daniel to inquire about a replacement/addition. On the plus side, the casting of the Hengstler counter appears very nice. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at @Hellhounds and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. In the meantime, he is planning on sending me those individual pieces to add on to my baster. HHP ADDITIONAL ANGLES The images from this point on are all from new angles not included on kman's Hyperfirm vs. Praetorian thread. They are intended to highlight the fine detailing present on these Hellhounds blasters, and will so provide a better view of the of the differences in the three rubber E-11 blasters. These first two images provide alternate angles of the mag well area, showing the lack of the ejector knob. The two soldering pins on the Hengstler counter are also visible. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. Notice the detailed inscriptions and oval inlay on the bottom of the magazine well, shown below. Very nice, as is the texture on the magazine itself. The two images below highlight the T-tracks, venting holes and folding stock. As previously mentioned, the T-tracks are smooth and straight. While I am not certain that the original Sterlings had such a texture on the stock metal, I definitely like the presence of the it as it adds to the weathering and could even be considered to be carbon scoring. "You boys have seen a lot of action..." The image below shows a close-up profile view of the muzzle screw, front sight, flash guard, and folding stock butt. Notice that, in the same fashion implemented by HFx and PB, and clearly for the purpose of providing structural support, the front sight is not hollowed out on the HHP. The two images below are intended to highlight the charging handle, ejection port and guard, and texture on the folding stock and grip. Note that, as already established, there is no recoil spring, clearing strip, and extractor on the HHP. However, the grip detail is fantastic. Additionally, other than the rubber trigger, the grip is the only other place on the blaster where flex can be found—on the smooth front and back. I suspect this may be intentional to provide comfort in-hand, and I like it. Below: End cap and D-ring from both sides. Also shows the end cap clip, scope rail, and rear sight again. The textured and inscription details on the back of the scope can be seen on the photos below. While there is some brass weathering, a little more would be nice. These two photos below highlight area around the front of the scope, showing the molded screws, metal rail, power cylinders, and the soldering pins on the Hengstler counter. Notice more brass color on the scope rim. The HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz (2.19 lbs or 0.99 kilos), comfortable for long troops. FINAL THOUGHTS By my assessment, the Hellhounds Props blaster situates itself right between the HFx Hyperfirm line and the Praetorian blaster. Overall the mold/seam lines are of better quality and more minimal than those on Hyperfirms, and approach or in some cases match those of Praetorian. A few details are missing on the Hellhounds, such as the recoil spring, magazine ejection knob, and greeblies on the magazine (EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch) and power cylinders, but conversely, HHP has included details not currently seen on OT blasters from Praetorian or Hyperfirm—a real metal scope rail and split arms on the folding stock! While this may not be the case forever, it is also worth noting that the Hellhounds E-11 is currently less costly than one from Praetorian. For me, this blaster was an EXCELLENT choice, and I would not hesitate purchasing from Hellhounds again. And there we have it. Hopefully this photo review can serve, in conjunction with kman's thread, as a valuable guide for any Trooper in the US considering purchasing a rubber E-11. Perhaps in the future I'll have the pleasure of owning more rubber blasters (DLT-19!) and be able to create additional comparison guides. I'd be happy to serve as a weaponry photographer/reviewer Amazon Vine Program style here on FISD. In case any of you missed the link near the top of this post, here is the FISD's official E-11 Reference Guide, followed by a Rogue One variant: Move along, move along... MV

Looks like they finally gave the illusion that the t-tracks fit inside the front barrel by adding a recessed circle at each of their end. However no vent holes in front and behind the top t-track, the flashlight mount is there, but the rear half is similar to TFA. Yet another variant... Honestly at this point it's too much of a mess to keep track. It's was already one with TFA alone, but TLJ and TROS just worsened things.

Searching this forum is somewhat difficult. Not sure why. I find it best to use google, like so: www.whitearmor.net: my search term

Mario, Great tip. I will follow suit on what you did. Thank you for the great idea!

Thank you! Just got to work on my back strapping to make it more aligned an tight. Along with resizing my biceps and I should be good for pre approval before next sending the pictures off for my approval as well as work on keeping that back S-trim on stay there in my photos (has never fallen out) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You nailed it. Looks GREAT!

Didn't think of the Balaclava! Good idea. Pair that with those little rubber paddings on the Glasses arms you can buy, if I can, get them inside while wearing... they wont be going anywhere.

Thank you! I didn't think about the rubber gaskets on the body suit. Talk about a heat trap. I think I should be barely able to make it for a 'short-trooper'! I was wrong on my listed measurement. I'm 5'8. Thank you for the good wishes and info! BS lids are totally a gateway drug. I want to buy all of them. Shadowtrooper, Scout... Incinerator.... Oh yeah! I mean, it could be said 'I've been waiting my whole life for this' haha. Patience is indeed a virtue from what I've seen here and around. As long as you can keep your head on and relax, you should be good! Thank you! I spent some time looking into the subtle differences of all the OT / R1 armors. I had no idea there was so many! Especially comparing Stunts to heros, or ANH to ROTJ. I'll be going with the R1 build. In my eyes it looks to be the perfect rendition of what a TK should be. No technical limitations in the way when they were made. Crisp, Chean and from what it looks / what I've researched; Very mobile/ comfortable for trooping thanks to a few extra straps / exposed areas / ect. For this, I've been looking into 850Armorworks, and HeadshotProps. While they aren't on the verified list for the forums, the reviews seem pretty good (on here, on their sites, etsy, ect) , with the only negatives seeming to be 'Long delivery'. As stated above, Patience is key! Example image. Glad to be here, thank you! I was second guessing myself with the snowtrooper idea, just because we only had 2 weeks of snow here in Michigan! The weather here can be so wild, I think that's could be one of the reasons why all the troopers / 501st members at the MetroCity Comic Con are all OT TKs. lol I definitely will be looking into that helmet cooling, and microphone! Any specific threads you could recommend / links for the mic? Thank you! I guess stress testing the armor wouldn't be a bad idea once I actually have a kit assembled? Its just that the moment I hear plastic creaking, I freak out, scared to break it. Then again, this Halo spartan outfit as 2mm or less thick, and molded with all these weird extrusions, bevels, and isn't solid. Hopefully the simplistic, smooth flow of the TK buttplate can hold up to it. As for glasses not fitting, do you think it could be possible to buy spare prescription lenses, and mount them internally behind the visor? or would that break 501st reg.

Not sure on the gap, just need the sniper knee to be in front of thigh armor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took 15 more mm off my shins it’s not like this when completing standing straight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome to the FISD future trooper Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thanks! I was just reading through Cricket's build as well. SO MUCH GREAT INFORMATION!!

Nice work

Hah! I was being a little sarcastic with that post (at least the "problem" part). I come from a WWII Living History background, and I'm the type that wears period-correct under wear, even though the public never sees it, because that is the correct way to do it. The devil is in the details. I've always thought the process of gathering/putting stuff together was half the fun, and I'm certainly already enjoying it with this project. And, yes, I am absolutely aiming for a Centurion-level build from Day 1. I spent a lot of time looking over the EI and Centurion submission threads when trying to pick out armor. Lots of really good and helpful info in those threads. And I'm good freinds with Imgur. Here is my project log book to keep track of research, to-do lists, etc.

Do you have old yellowed armor, no time for a peroxide bath? Now is the time to turn that old kit into a "Death Trooper"!!!! We're in the planning stages of organizing Celebration's first ever "Zombie Crawl"! Just like in the book "Death Trooper", the undead will be walking (More like stumbling) the halls of the Anaheim convention center. We're also planning a panel discussion on the subject for the con. "Vader's INFECTED" A panel discussion of the undead in the Star Wars Universe! The book, How to build your own "Death Trooper", Costume standards, the history of the undead in Star Wars and the toys, tv, comic books and video games. In the coming days I will share link for a FaceBook private group for those interested in participating in the crawl, the panel or both. we're looking for one more panel participant and a number of 501st approved Death troopers for the crawl. If your'e a Legion member and your DT is NOT approved, submit a pic and if its borderline family friendly I'm hoping we can get you in the crawl. This event is open to ALL detachments. If you have an undead Scout, TIE, Snowie, Sandie or any other armor type, you're invited. post here if interested in participating or helping out and being a wrangler. https://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=247&t=105669 https://www.facebook.com/groups/545575762697433/about/

Hey Jonathan, Just wanted to mention something about the returns on the backplate- namely the ones around the shoulders/arms. This is an area of high stress on the armor. Any returns around the back shoulders- no matter how small! - will eventually crack (*cough- ask me how I know - cough*). You'll end up having to do repairs somewhere down the road if you keep those returns on. As seen in the reference pic below, it's totally accurate to completely remove those returns on the back plate sides, especially around the shoulders. When you remove the returns back there, you allow the armor to flex, which means no cracking. Your build is coming along nicely! Keep up the good work!

Well here you are! Great to see you on the forums and it was great to have coffee and give you the run down. Soon as I get moved mate, I will have more time to help you out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hello fellow Badlander! Check out the build section for FOTKs - there are separate threads for each movie. Also, check out the Centurion and EIB applications (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/) and scoll through for FOTK applications. These are great for seeing high quality builds. And of course, if you haven't been to the Badlands forum yet, be sure to check in there (badlands.ca). We have a few FOTKs and you may be able to meet up with members at an armour party. There is also a Facebook group if you are on FB. Good luck with your build!

Thanks man. My learnt a lot doing my Snowie, which other than the lid was all 3d printed

Progress so far. Everything other than the thighs is printed Fit seems ok so far Did a bit of reinforcing with fibreglass Lid taking shape All the soft goods either here or orders Boots and Gloves - IB Gaskets - Teresa Neck seal - Imperial Seamstress Belt - Belts of the First Order Pouches - Trooper Bay F-11 all printed and have ordered the rail that appears in TLJ Picked up an R2Dan holster

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-d8yBFyd0CgWGtmSWx6ZHRjbFE/view

Yup, what has been mentioned above. I would also say try to extend the gray on the frown to fully extend to all of the "teeth." try to not leave gaps. Other than that you should be well on your way bud! good luck.

Atually if your read the CRL there are 3 options, the middle does not say the decals need to look hand painted, just decals Tears, traps, and tube stripes may be hand painted, decals, or decals that replicate hand painted An easy fix is to hand draw over the black lines with a black permanent marker, being giving that tip for a few years now. Appears you may have painted your holster rivets? May be the photo but brow trim looks a bit angled You could also add a little white to the hovi tip rims Good luck on your application

I printed my FO tk from this file from yeggi/thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2754159 My helmet is 90% and will knock your eyes out, of course I've put many hours in prep and finish, all worth it....good luck

Update 10: - review 2018 It is the last day of the year, so I just wanted to post a few nice pictures from troops during 2018. Yes, have been pretty active in 2018. But there is still enough space left on the Stanley box... Wishing you all a Happy New Year 2019!

Update 09: - armor in the box For those who are wondering, if and how the TK with standard strapping fits into that box, here is how I pack it for a troop. Tetris level 1 Everything fits fine into the 113 liters box, including helmet, boots, blaster and the voice amp. Between some armor parts, there is still space left for food and drinks, emergency repair kit and spare clothes. Because the box is pretty full, you can store it vertically without everything getting mixed up inside - always good when using an elevator. Maybe this helps a few other troopers here in the decision process…

Update 08: - transport box for the armor As participation in events became more frequently, I had to think about a suitable transport box for the armor. Up to now I attended 9 events, carrying everything in that 4 years old BBB. After seriously researching, I ended up with a Stanley box. Many here will think of the popular 190 liters box, because it is a good choice for TKs with original strapping. My TK has the standard strapping, so I looked for something smaller and found a 113 liters size. Note: It took two months with lid opened for the factory stench to evaporate… The box seems very robust. I can sit and stand on it without problems. The integrated lock is a nice feature, but be warned: I tested my key on 5 other Stanley boxes and it worked on each of them! Looks like they use the exact same lock for all boxes. Guessing a few guys (including me) will soon replace their locks. Now onto decorating the box… Was happy to have that V-groove covered in a useful way. There is space for about 60 - 70 events. Enough for me. Went on with the sides. Seen many boxes full with interesting stickers, but I had not enough to fill the sides. What I had instead, were two laser-cut imperial cogs “from an earlier project”. I am really happy with the result and do like the clean look. In case anybody wants to pick up the aluminum cover on the v-groove, then please make sure to use a sufficient thickness. My alu stripe is only 0.8mm. A bit more would be better, as these boxes might be stacked on big events.

BRITISH STERLING L2A3 MK4 SMG Finished with the base gun! I am very reluctant to convert this to E-11 to be honest.

SCOPE RAIL I "aged" the scope rail by dabbing flat black paint in various layers, each one with different amount of thinning to create texture. The edges were lightly weathered with silver Rub n' Buff but not much since it is unlikely to receive much contact during usage. BEFORE AFTER

M38 TANK TELESCOPE I have obsessed over the paint and weathering for this scope for more than a week! I used brass guilding wax as the first layer, sprayed satin black over, and used a cotton bud dipped in thinner to gently remove the black in areas where contact is likely, revealing the brass beneath. Here was my first attempt; My only references were photos I found online, but somehow I was never satisfied with the results. Fortunately, a buddy of mine recently acquired an actual scope and offered to loan it to me. Right way I noticed the brass color in the actual scope is less vibrant, so I ordered a bottle of AK Interactive pale brass online and got it the next day. In my second attempt, I scaled back on the weathering and focused more on the areas around the lenses. Here are a few side-by-side comparisons. Left one is the real scope. Here is the real telling sign between them and I can't figure out how to replicate the sharp letterings. Thoughts?

Update 07: - a mannequin to display the armor After a long research, I recently purchased this dummy. It consists of seven pieces and came with additional metal base and a chromed support for the lower leg, but so far I did not use these parts. Plug-and-play all the way. Now here comes the reason for buying exactly this mannequin: Bringing all armor pieces onto the legs, meant these had to get „modified“ heavily. A step by step process began… While permanently cutting and cutting I had asked myself if this would ever work. But when I finally had all armor parts on the mannequin, I was quite happy with the result. Tried to add a blaster, but even the 1.1 kg resin version requires some kind of support in the arms. I am also thinking about using a rubber blaster – just in case the E-11 drops accidentally. Time will tell… Thanks for reading and have a nice weekend

Update 06: - pictures in full armor Okay, I had promissed it. Guess I have to deliver now... Luckily the last picture got some nice lighting, which brings out the armor weathering very good. Let me know what you think of the result. Thanks.