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Everything posted by funkster

  1. If I could remember where…. Give me some time
  2. Yep. Spoken to him a few times with little advice other than “sand more” It’s frustrating as I’ve heated the face plate to better mold it to the inside, but it then just goes back to its original shape. It’s going to need a LOT of adhesive to keep it in place. He said he was going to put together a video on how to assemble the helmet. Still waiting for the clips and vinyl which he said had come in and would be in the post. That was a month ago. Unfortunately, he’s now been flooded out, which is not good news for anyone.
  3. The second CG trader are the ones I’m using for mine. The designer has gone back and made changes when asked to by troopers. There are still some slight issues, as there are with all 3d files - parts overlapping that need looking at - and the TD/Cod are not perfect for TLJ The lid is reasonable but I’ve not managed to get mine together due the aforementioned over lap issues.
  4. Did a bit of work on the lid yesterday. It’s still not fitting together without issue, so started removing some material to try and help. Also, the mesh did fair too well in the casting process So out it comes, and I’ll be replacing it with some metal mesh
  5. For a classic TK, buy a kit [emoji1303]
  6. https://www.ukgarrison.co.uk/forum/ucp.php?mode=register&sid=1a8030a25a5554d0bdd4f14d12336712
  7. *waves from Essex* Welcome dude. Make sure you pop over the UKG forums if you haven’t already. As a fellow 3d printed member, I would say if you’re doing a classic TK, then buying a kit will be better than printed Much easier to put together and lighter.
  8. Yeah I had to use the one with the flange to cover up a bit of damage You can see that the button details are bigger on my rail and painted 3d printed plastic doesn’t respond to a Dremel as well as resin does.
  9. Bits and bobs Pouches from Trooper Bay and filled with rigid foam 3d printed shoulder tabs (thanks to whomever uploaded them here) Hot glued in and straps ready for shoulders
  10. Finished the TD today with help from a buddy with a vinyl cutter. Actually ended up using vinyl on the end cap to get a clean edge. Can’t see the join unless you get about an inch away Back detail Bolt done Nipples and shoulder tabs painting
  11. Thanks dude It wasn’t, but after a long scrolling session I found it in Krisko’s build
  12. Wonder if someone can help. I was scrolling a couple of days back and found a build where there was a diagram of the forearm construction The member had also added the screw to the forearm rail. I’ve got one with a flange and wondered if theirs was the same but can’t find the thread
  13. Just a question about hand plates as there seems to be some differences on what I see on the CRL, screen grabs and people’s builds The small recessed oval by the index finger. Should that be white or black? CRL pic is white Screen grab looks white. Lots of builds I see, including an EIB/Cent, have it painted black/vinyl
  14. The same maker on CG trader does have a model for the forearms that are pretty TLJ accurate I’ll take a pic later
  15. With the TD If you wanted to reduce the gap and but still have it separate you can do what I did for my ab boxes. Put some mold release / wax on the back plate. Get some body filler / bondo / p38 on the TD Push it in in place so the filler squishes out abs fills the gap Wait for it to go off Pull of the TD as the wax should have stopped the filler attaching Sand and tidy up the TD Boo.
  16. Just to show how a bit of flatting and polishing works miracles Worked on some of the details
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