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The5thHorseman

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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    2,756
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  • Days Won

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About The5thHorseman

  • Rank
    Accuracy Hag
  • Birthday 04/14/1992

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    geg488@yahoo.fr

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    FRANCE
  • Interests
    Music! Pink Floyd, Metallica, Daft Punk, Scorpions, Led Zeppelin, Wu-Tang Clan, Mobb Deep and so many other bands...

    Films in general with a predilection for old Chanbara japanese films right now.

FISD Info

  • FISD Achievement Medals
    1
  • 3D Contributor Award
    5
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20140921
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Germain
  • 501st ID
    14492
  • 501st Unit
    French Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

2,753 profile views
  1. It's a valuable tip you've got to hung parts that are ready to be primed. Whenever I see someone painting something that isn't hung-up, it drives me absolutely crazy! How are you supposed to evenly paint the whole piece in one go, and make sure to reach all the areas, and don't get dust lifted from the ground, and...... Huuuh.... I could go on for hours. Personally when I don't have a suspending point, such as a hole, or something similar, the way I do it now is to bondo directly the wire to the inside of the part. You basically need to grind it with a dremel when comes the time to remove it, but the good thing is that it allows to suspend heavy parts as well. I remember one time, having finished to lay the final coat of gloss white to something that was quite heavy, leave the area, only to hear a loud thud minutes later. I went to see and found out the part on ground with a huge crack running its surface. It had been suspended for a couple of days (priming and white paint) and its weight had finally managed to break the tape that was holding the wire to the part. Needless to say that was quite the bummer!
  2. A little while ago I started a proper SE-14 build as seen in the promotional pictures made for ANH (which in the end turned into a Rexim-favor replica build), but as most of the projects I do for me I dropped it at some point and never resumed working on it yet. It's a shame cause I love this weapon, and I put efforts into making everything functional, from the cocking action, to the mud cover, to the folding stock, bayonet, selectors, etc...
  3. Yes, the armours appear to be of OT lineage. Possibly even from ANH lineage judging by this picture where the butt plate appears separate from the kidney plate. Also the chestplate looks way different from the awful FX-inspired R1 chestplate. (BTW, it seems they put the kidney plate upside down! The notch seems to be facing upwards instead of downwards) The top view of the abdomen is very much different from what a R1 armour looks like (not perfectly rounded, two pieces assembly w/ seams at sides, no opening at the back, ...) Also the arms are strapped in a perfect OT style, with no gap whatsoever between biceps and forearms. And like Andy said, the shoulder straps are OT style and the backplate doesn't have any slots where they would fit in like R1 does. I'd say the only odd thing is the detonator in the first pic. In the end it could be that those armours were created using 3D scans taken directly from the LFL archives... Basically the way it should have been in the first place for R1. But that's enough ranting from my part already!
  4. Paul is definitely right. If you trim an even amount from the edge of the thigh, this spacing from the inner edge to the cover stripe gets way to narrow and makes the thighs look incorrect. The white trim lines he indicated in the picture he posted are the ones I would follow too.
  5. This isn't a screen-used costume, but Paul's replica. The thing is, the elastic used on the shoulder for the screen-used costume has a very peculiar width, weave, and color. The three combined makes it extremely difficult to source and I know Paul couln't find one that was perfectly ticking all the boxes. He settle to the next best thing that was black instead of brown. Now maybe the elastic for the stormtrooper is black indeed but the one for the shoretrooper is dead brown, and I'm don't see why they would bother using two different types of elastic for similar strapping purpose. Also I just can't understand how you can so confidently assess that the elastic on the R1TK reference picture you posted is black? You have two very strong references of items we know are black (necktrim, and undersuit) that determine the black levels on the picture. The elastic doesn't appear anywhere that range. Seems hardly black to me.
  6. All parts are made of polyurethane resin, not "plastic". They're all made by vacuum casting using silicone molds and not injection molded. All limbs are three parts construction: outer half, inner half, and front cover stripe (the top rim, sniper knee plate and ammo stripe for the greaves and thigh are separate parts too). The strap that connects the shoulder bell to the support bracket isn't black but brown. There might be more, but that's all I recall without needing to read all you posts again. And then there's all the stuff that you didn't cover. You seem to complain about the fact that there's very little known about how these costume were assembled but most of it has been covered already. The correct strapping for the biceps to shoulder bells with bungie ropes, correct closure system for forearms and biceps with bungie ropes too, strapping between shoulder bell and torso. suspenders for the abdomen, corset closure at the back of the abdomen, whole interaction between the spine plate, rear hard belt, TD bracket and TD, the shoulder bridge srapping, etc... All that stuff is figured out. Even the correct brand of glue to be used has been identified. Then there's also few mistakes about the OT stormtrooper. The construction method you seem to described in your first post is an overlap with cover stripe which correspond to neither ANH or ROTJ.
  7. Jeff, I think you would benefit from reading and learning about MrPaul's shoretrooper build because right now I'm reading several incorrect informations in your posts. A lot of components and most of the strapping is similar between the shoretrooper and stormtrooper so it won't be a waste of time for you.
  8. Looks like they finally gave the illusion that the t-tracks fit inside the front barrel by adding a recessed circle at each of their end. However no vent holes in front and behind the top t-track, the flashlight mount is there, but the rear half is similar to TFA. Yet another variant... Honestly at this point it's too much of a mess to keep track. It's was already one with TFA alone, but TLJ and TROS just worsened things.
  9. I would say yes. At least two blasters had one in TFA, and it seems they became standard for TLJ.
  10. (Mind the End Caps while at it.) (Mind the End Cap Latch, while at it).
  11. Ooh, the cocking channel has been swaped from the left/hand side of the blaster to the right/hand side. That's kind of an important design modification actually.
  12. There's also two visible vent holes in the barrel at each end of the top t-track. However, the heavy F-11D linked in the first post of this thread doesn't have them, so it might just be an error from the propmakers specific to this blaster.
  13. Yeah well, I think it's easier to notice the assymetry that way. Your method might be true when perspective is involved, but when you have the chance to have orthographic views of the item you want to compare there's not reason not to make use of it.
  14. Isn't it old, already long known stuff?! Those orthographic pictures have been around for around a year and a half now. By the way, these 3D renders were shared by Sam Williams who's been in charge of doing lots of the hard-surface 3D modelling for the various late SW films in ZBrush. Many of these 3D models were then taken and resurfaced in Solidworks by Alan Meeks. But Glyn Dyllon didn't make any of the costume parts himself, he's concept artist and costume designer (that's way harder you can argue). Also I don't see what you're trying to show by taking a picture and simply mirroring it? If you want to clearly show the assymetry (yes, the helmet is) you need to crop only half of the picture, flip it vertically and paste it over the other half of the picture and then slowly change the opacity from 0 to 100%. Even just pasting half of the helmet over the other half is more informative than what you've done :/
  15. From what I heard they used Anovos OT helmets with R1 armors.
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