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The5thHorseman

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    2,700
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    15

About The5thHorseman

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    geg488@yahoo.fr

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    FRANCE
  • Interests
    Music! Pink Floyd, Metallica, Daft Punk, Scorpions, Led Zeppelin, Wu-Tang Clan, Mobb Deep and so many other bands...

    Films in general with a predilection for old Chanbara japanese films right now.

FISD Info

  • FISD Achievement Medals
    1
  • 3D Contributor Award
    5
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20140921
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S
  • FISD Supporter
    No

Standard Info

  • Name
    Germain
  • 501st ID
    14492
  • 501st Unit
    French Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

2,102 profile views
  1. I think you should consider upgrading your F-11D with buttstock to a properly sized one. The one you have really throws it off right now. It's supposed to look massive.
  2. Nice one! And like the others suggest, if you end up deciding to go with a chipping effect for the paintjob, you will kind of have to use masking fluid. Because if the paint flaked like it did on the original helmets, it is greatly due to the HDPE surface underneath that doesn't adhere well with paint at all. Very difficult plastic to paint over. You will probably never be able to achieve the same flaking effect with an ABS helmet. But if you don't have any masking fluid at hand I've heard of people using toothpaste or mustard with good results too.
  3. If you hit the whole paint with wirewool 00000 you should be able to dull it and lighten it at the same time very easily. Wirewool is, like its name sugest, wool-like, so it's very convenient for buffing uneven surfaces. You can also just apply one or two layers of a flat clearcoat to change the finish of your paint.
  4. You're right, the MGC Sterling are substantially smaller than a proper L2A3 Sterling. Like you said they can shoot cartridges, but not real bullets
  5. What about those elbow gaps? You guys are ready to fight bit and nails for five small millimeters on brow height but don't give a nickel about 4 inches gap at elbows?! Curious priorities in my opinion. But yeah... body shapes and sizes..... convenient excuse. How about this one then: disqualify "Master Replica" helmets for basic approval? Haha, nothing ventured, nothing gained!
  6. What Mathias is saying is that you guys tend to oppose Stunt as having high or mid-high brows when all Heros have a low brow. That is incorrect as few Hero helmet also had a mid-high brow. So careful not to go and instaure a rule saying that all Hero helmets must have a low brow because that would be a mistake. Highest brow of both is a Hero. Two Hero helmets with different brow height: And even Han's Hero helmet doesn't have a low brow.
  7. The issue with this kind of program is: how far should it be taken? Because if you want to achieve true screen-accuracy the list of things to take in consideration is huge. From a starter, armors eligible to that award would have to be restricted to a narrow few (RS, TM, and Anovos only). And even there, none of them can yeld absolute true lineage to a screen-used armor. Glue would have to be stelmax 1985. Boots must be genuine Stuart's 1095. All snaps must be vintage Newey. Calf hooks must genuine Newey size 4. All elastic straps must have correct width and frayed ends, etc... Not to mention the blaster which would have to follow the same rules. Difficult award to establish, difficult to follow for builders, difficult to review for the guy granting the ward. And if you start removing items from the list to make it easier, then your "screen-accurate" award doesn't represent much anymore.
  8. Dude, did you just photoshop this screencap?! Here's the unaltered still from ANH. No gaps at all, except for the v-shaped cuts to the top of the forearm's inner half so that the arm can be bent. And once again that argument of the different morphologies allowing you to have a gap or not is entirely false. As long as you position the articulation between the biceps and forearm at the same level where your elbow is, no matter how long or short your arm is, you will be able to bend it. The only thing that will change is how much your biceps is inside the shoulder bell. And for people with very long arm, how much of a gap between the bottom of the forearm and the handplate there is.
  9. For EIB (and therefore Centurion): - Forbid elbow gaps between the bottom of the biceps and the top of the forearm. - Forbid elbow gaps. - Forbid some more the elbow gaps. - Forbid any kind of elbow gaps once and for all. From what I remember EIB is all about the overall appearance of the armor seen from a distance (as opposed to Centurion more focused on details). Elbow gaps are just that. Something that is visually striking and that has a huge impact on the look of an armor. I challenge anyone to find just one stormtrooper, whether it's from A new Hope, The Empire Strikes Back or The Return of the Jedi with a gap between his biceps and forearm. Spoiler alert, you won't... Hence I can't understand why they have been tolerated for so much time now. On top of that, it's change that doesn't cost anything to the builder, it's only a matter of correct strapping. So please. For real... I think its about time we adress this matter and get rid of it... It's been way too long. Edit: Here's even a possible wording of the thing '- There must be no gap between the bottom of the biceps armour and the top of the forearm armour, except for the cut allowing to bend the elbow. If you have trouble bending the elbow, it means your biceps armour needs to be lowered down from inside the shoulder bell. Note: if you have long arms it is possible for the biceps armours not to be fitted inside the shoulder bell. It's fine.'
  10. Thanks guys! As I said to Andrew it's a great honor for me of being awarded this very first 3D contributor badge. Especially directly the golden one. It's very generous and I'm much grateful
  11. Just for clarification what you see on these pictures is NOT a vacuum-formed set of armor. It is their 3D model printed (rapid prototyping) at a 1:1 scale to check for fitting issues on an actual human body, etc... in order for them to refine their 3D model if needed, and only then use these updated models to cut (CNC) forming bucks out of aluminum. So what you see in those picture doesn't represent what you'll get in terms of parts. Almost everything such as limbs, detonator, ..., will be break down into several parts.
  12. I made my First Order forearms in PETG and I had no problems painting them. As long as the prepping job is done well, there shouldn't be any issue. However sanding PETG isn't easy indeed, but not that much more than PLA which doesn't take sanding well either.
  13. Two MGC?!? Wow, I wasn't prepared for that, this is awesome. Now who ever Frankenstein-ed the first one with L2A3 parts should definitely be banned from the SW community! What a terrible thing to do... However too bad I didn't know you were looking for one because I just happened to see two RO72 going for sale, but the auctions are finished now.
  14. I like that tip to report lines! I never thought of using a compass as a protractor. I'll try to remember that from now on.
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