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Forgot to say that my red pauldron and FOTK kit came last week, minus the gaskets and the lid.

Heading off on vacation for a few weeks so build will be put on hold. Took some pictures to show my progress to friends while visiting. So much done and so much remains, feels like a mountain that I will never reach the summit until that day that I realize I am there. Enjoy your summer everyone.

Short answer: No. Longer Answer: Don’t do it. For the amount of effort it would take to make it 501st approvable it’ll be easier to find an Anovos bucket, I see them go for $200 and under.

Hi fellow 501st Legion members, After nearly 3 years of development and refinement of the hardware and the code, I'm happy to announce that the currently most advanced blaster firmware FX-BlasterOS (previously known as Proto Blaster Platform) goes open-source, freely downloadable for anyone. To get an impression of the features you can implement now for free, look at the Intro Video on YouTube. For Easter Eggs, make sure you watch it till the end : FX-BlasterOS Intro Video With the software going open-source, you have multiple choices too to build your blaster electronics: Tier1: if you want a high-quality, proven solution which optimally supports all features of FX-BlasterOS, follow the below link: You advantage: - proven, tested - small enough to fit into any blaster - you can charge your Li-Ion battery over USB - comes with extensive power saving options for a sleep mode which can sustain your prop for several months on the shelf - comes already pre-installed with full version of FX-BlasterOS Tier2: you can stick together your own electronics from cheap parts, look how easy it is using Arduino boards and breakouts (see also the Shoping list below for details): To ease programming for those who are not (yet) familier with Arduino, there are detailed working instructions how to do it on the Wiki Page of the Git. In case of anz trouble of technical support request, use the Issue tab of the Git. There is also the possibility to source a carrier board for the cheap components, hugely simplifying the task of soldering and making the electronics more reliable. You can use skyone's excellent rider board which can be used with components compatible with FX-BlasterOS. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/?do=findComment&comment=646230 Shopping List Here is also a shopping list for you of components you will need: Arduino Board: Arduino Nano (actually any Atmega328P based board, wiring examples will be shown for the Nano): ebay search term: Arduino Nano v3 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nano-V3-0-ATmega-328-Board-CH340-USB-Chip-Arduino-Kompatibel/252742123829?hash=item3ad89ac135:g:xCEAAOSwPGtb33e0:rk:1:pf:0 DFPlayer Mini: ebay search term: "DFPlayer mini". Please ask the seller if the module comes with the original manufacturer's YX5200-24SS or YX6300-24SS chipset. You will also want to have a 470 Ohm thru hole resistor to connect the D8 of the Nano to the RX of the DFPlayer. https://www.ebay.de/itm/TF-Card-U-Disk-Mini-MP3-Player-Audio-Voice-Modul-Arduino-DFPlayer-Tafel-AIP/153290978607?hash=item23b0dab52f:g:uewAAOSwP6pbtdXJ:rk:1:pf:0 Speaker: recommended are OD: 20mm or 28mm Impedance: 8Ohm Power: 1W to 2W ebay search term: "20mm 2W 8Ohm speaker" Examples: https://www.ebay.de/itm/2pc-Audio-Speaker-20mm-8Ohm-8-2W-Stereo-Woofer-Trumpet-Horn-Loudspeaker-Power/162171125788?hash=item25c227001c:g:WRgAAOSwMtxXsvaV:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/28mm-8-Ohm-2W-Round-Speaker-For-DCC-Sound-Like-Loksound-Hornby-Bachmann-Zimo/263578226658?hash=item3d5e7c8fe2:g:BToAAOSwm-Zavo6p:rk:2:pf:0 Neopixel Sticks (for PLI/Status bar): ebay search term: "WS2812 stick" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-NeoPixel-Stick-8-x-WS2812-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-Driver-for-Arduino-r3/272010992457?hash=item3f551e5b49:g:7YMAAOSw7aBVBxRo:rk:7:pf:0 Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!) Single neopixel on round PCB (for nozzle light): ebay search term: "neopixel flora" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-Flora-RGB-Smart-NeoPixel-version-2-Pack-of-4-ADA1260/231237003534?epid=1028248696&hash=item35d6cca90e:g:LGoAAOSwNC5ZezSY:rk:6:pf:0 The original design is from Adafruit, please support the development by purchasing Adafruit products. You can also find similar offers on eBay from cheaper sources as well. Neopixel stripes (for barrel ligting): ebay search term: "WS2812 stripe" https://www.ebay.de/itm/5m-30-60-144-RGB-LED-Streifen-Stripe-mit-WS2812B-5050-SMD-LEDs-WS2812-Versand-DE/222192610445?hash=item33bbb62c8d:m:mR_Pz7NGzDUQhwH1s-6BFvg:rk:1:pf:0 Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!). As most blaster props are black it is recommended to buy a non-waterproof, 60LED/m type of pixel stripe. The striper are soldered together every 0.5m, but you can shorten the stripes easily to any lenght using scrissors, cutting the stripe at the copper landings. Momentary Switch: ebay search term: "momentary switch" or "tactile switch" You will need a single momentary (not latching!!!) swicth for the MK1, MK2 and MK3 builds, two for MK4 and MK5. For the trigger it is recommended to use a switch with a long arm like this one: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Mikroschalter-Mikrotaster-mit-langem-Hebel-250V-3A-125V-5A-S67/330793297018?epid=1154680769&hash=item4d04d1247a:g:8EgAAMXQlrxRcPJ9:rk:1:pf:0 For the mode select, aux. switch you can take the momentary switch of your choice, they come in an infinite variety, take the one which suits your needs. I myself like these small ones: https://www.ebay.de/itm/6mm-x-6mm-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-Micro-Momentary-Tact-Assortment-Kit-TE948/283285172378?hash=item41f51cb09a:g:SjoAAOSwo-VcAmNI:rk:9:pf:0 OLED Display with 128x32 resolution with I2C interface: ebay search term: "OLED 128*32" I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/0-91-128x32-IIC-I2C-Blue-OLED-Display-DIY-Module-DC3-3V-5V-128-32-Arduino/322536659354?hash=item4b18aed99a:g:ag8AAOSwK6RZLbR9:rk:5:pf:0 or for the scope a smaller one of type "OLED 64x48 I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/4pin-White-0-66-Screen-IIC-I2C-0-66in-OLED-Display-Module-64x48-for-AVR-STM32/272861748083?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Connectors for switches, speaker etc.: ebay search term: "micro JST 2-pin" For 2-wire connections like for switches, speaker, I recommend micro JST connectors with 1.25mm pitch: https://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Paar-2Pin-1-25-1-25mm-1-25mm-GH-Micro-JST-Stecker-Buchse-10cm-28AWG-Kabel-RC/172626910637?hash=item28315d9dad:g:XHsAAOSwux5YTaEB:rk:3:pf:0 2.1mm recharge port: https://www.ebay.de/itm/DC-Einbaubuchse-Stift-2-1-mm-geschlossene-Bauart-Lotanschlus-fur-Hohlstecker/141127499530?hash=item20dbdabf0a:g:4mIAAOSww~xZ1KXj:rk:9:pf:0 Micro- and/or Mini-USB breakout boards: ebay search term: "micro USB breakout" or "mini USB breakout" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Micro-USB-Platine-Adapter-fur-Breadboard-DIP-DIL-Breakout-Board-Arduino/183233499430?hash=item2aa9915126:g:kywAAOSwm8NbAIfU:rk:6:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-USB-Mini-B-Breakout-Board/272373312981?epid=1663565126&hash=item3f6ab6edd5:g:8BYAAOSwIIFbML51:rk:3:pf:0

Greetings, Troopers! After almost 2 years of nagging, I finally convinced my hubby to join the dark side in white armor. I surprised him with his very own set of BBBs from RS Props (a big one and a little one) on Christmas morning. Here's the moment of unwrapping. You all know the feeling. Now it's up to me to build it. And I'm super excited about this build because I won't really need to do much alteration to the plastic at all. At 5'10" and about 165 lbs, my husband is in the 'out-of-the-box trooper' size range. This thread will be pretty limited with regards to detail stuff (this is my fourth TK build, OMG!), but I wanted to share the bits and pieces of progress on this full-sized build anyways so I can get feedback when I need it. During the past few days, I've done some initial assembly with inner cover strips. Ooh. Ahhh. His compression garments arrived yesterday, so we're hoping to get time this weekend to do initial fitting of the limb parts. I would love to get moving on building his magnetic shins, but I can't until we get his boots for proper sizing. I'm on the lookout for a pair of TK Boots (not IB Boots) in size 12, so if anyone has a pair they'd like to part with (or has a lead), I'm your gal! TK Boots has told me they're currently out of stock, and unknown if they'll ever get more in.

Adjusted my bells. They kept binding when raised until I swapped the ridged straps to elastic (thank you Q). They move much easier now.

Imperial Valour WIP 07/06/2019 Texas TK No 850AW

Nice Pictures! Good Luck Trooper!!

Belt was slightly curved from SBS, but not as much as in your ref pic. I'll give that a go and replace the snap. Thanks for the advice.

All the hard work is paying off David, almost there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll download the app now, and really appreciate your feed back thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many of us use an online photo host such as Imgur to post large images, yours appear a little small to see much detail, one thin that does stick out is your ab buttons, check against the below image Drop boxes should align at the end of the belt. If you could post up some higher resolution photos it would help to get more feedback.

Looking forward to the progress pics.

Progress so far: I think I’ll tweak the left tear and the vocoder. :-) **these are all different helmets I’m using for reference as I’m not following one specific lid. Just getting the feel of the originals. :-)

Good spot, Daniel. I’m going for a slightly different shape to that one, based on the below, however comparing the two it does need to extend up by a few mm. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, after a 5 day hiatus in I am back at it. Even though I had fun on vacation, is it bad when I say I would have much rather been working on my armor instead of hanging with family? Sniper knee installed. I'll have to see how it measures up for the proper top edge alignment for centurion. Thigh ammo pack is installed. I originally trimmed it to just under 16", but then it was further trimmed to about 14" to better match the thigh profile. It is still clamped at the front as I dolloped some glue in there to keep it from sagging. I went for the slightly angled up option. I used single cap rivets for installation which still need to be painted. I've also filled and sanded the tops of both thighs and calves where the armor pieces join. Once again, this was a purely esthetic things for me. There still might be small touchups I want to do as the ABS paste had tiny bubbles in it. This is where my OCD is showing it's ugly face and delaying the build... I basically used wet sanding (to about 3000 grit) then finished with Tamiya model polishing compounds. These are used in model building to achieve very smooth finishes in plastic. I've installed the 3" elastic to front of thighs that will be part of the suspension belt system. They are still about 2' long until I get a final fit done. All cover strips are now done. I will be adding interior strips once I get my Basic approval done. Next big step was addressing the shoulder bell fitment over the bicep. The bells were flared out too much. I used excellent instructions by justjoseph (THANKS!) and a pot of boiling water to reshape the bells. They may need additional tweaking after I do another fitment check. Flared bell bottoms (HA!) on left pieces. After some heat and tweaking. I'm not sure if the bells are supposed to tightly hug the biceps? Left (heat treated) compared to original right. Right side on the bicep before heating. Better pics once I can get it all put on. The bell to shoulder straps are also glued on. That's all for tonight. Getting there bit by bit...

Beautiful work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Coming along nicely

I just saw a guy in the message board asking about TKUK kits.... Let me use thus as a thread-bump. Before I knew better, I bought the famous BOGO kits from TKUK.... 8 months later and a hard lesson learned, I bought an AP kit and got myself approved. The TKUK kits are flimsy, faulty, and generally poor quality. Both of the TKUK kits I bought are either going to be spare parts or slowly being turned into ABS paste. Here one of the 4 shin pieces I got from them (the other 3 looked the same) Poor molds? Recast? I don’t know but they are junk. Steer clear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Working on the calf now, here is the helmet with the tube stripes raised up.

Looking good Dan You might consider "raising" those middle ones a tad though

This weekend I took the time to wrangle up Mr. Cricket into his blacks and finally set forth with proper armor fitting. It's one thing to make armor for yourself, it's something entirely different when you're building it for someone else! The right shin really was a PITA, and I ended up having to re-order a new one because I didn't like the slant lines of the first one I had assembled. This delayed things for a few weeks. I ended up tearing out all the magnets and made a new shin, trying to correct that weird angular line in the back. There is still a little slant to the cover strip on the right shin, but it's a little less angular than the first one I'd built. It's the best I can do with the RS shin. This weekend we spent a marathon session of 4 hours to work on tailoring the suit. Lots and lots of "try on- mark trim lines- take off- trim- try on again, etc". I had a goal of getting everything fit and done, but we both ran out of energy for it. For example, once I trimmed the thighs so they were comfortable on him, he would notice another area of the suit that didn't feel right. So I would trim that, then something else would stand out to him as needing adjustment. It went on and on... So we're not done, but very, very close now. Some of the things that immediately jump out at me as needing work: I still need to make some stirrups for his shins, so his shins were kind of doing their own things, but they're not all that bad. Elastics to the belt boxes needs to be relaxed so they don't bind up as much to the belt (this is why they pop out a little against the thighs). I need to hit the bracket screw heads and kidney/ab rivets with some white paint. I think the backs of his thighs still need some more trimming. Everything lines up pretty well along the kidney/ab, but it seems that the elastics I bought from Mr. No Stripes seem to be too long. They really need to be shortened up about 1/8" to tighten up the armor piece connections. I compared his elastics to the ones I've got installed on my Stunt TK, and my Stunt elastics are definitely shorter. Which means that I'll need to remove all the elastics for a quick stitch-fix to reduce the gaps I'm seeing in the back. (I'll take care of this when I've got my sewing machine out to build the stirrups.) Then there's the butt plate. This was really giving me a headache! Simply put, it still needs work; I need to reshape it. The left side is fine for the most part. But the right side- GAH! It's popping out quite a bit on the right side - which tends to be a trait of the RS butt. (Or at least that's what I've noticed on all three RS suits I've built.) Once I reshape it, I'll probably install a few of those snazzy V tabs that were recommended to me by Glen (gmrhodes13). I made some of these for my Hero TK, and they really help to keep that butt in line! Then there are the arms. They're not in the pics, but the forearms and biceps are complete and strapping has been installed. Minor trims still need to be done. I'll probably make some bicep hooks as well because they tend to make the arms look better. I'm waiting to attach the plastic shoulder straps to the chest plate until the white shoulder elastics have been attached to the back plate. The final pieces are the shoulder bells. For me, these are such an important part of the suit to get trimmed correctly! I don't want to fully trim them until I have the rest of the suit dialed in and fully fitted correctly. The bells need to follow the contours of the chest and back plates with minimal black showing, and it's very easy to overtrim the bells if you aren't careful. Once they're trimmed correctly, it's an easy matter of gluing in the bicep elastics and bell-to-shoulder strap connectors. We've got plans for a final big push to finish the suit next week... after I've made all of the adjustments I can make without putting the suit on him of course. My punch list is down to a single page now!

What Glen said! Tapes and magnets galore! I have ATA as well and quite like compared to others that I've worked on. You're well on your way and you'll get there in no time!

And guess what? It'd be even better in white!

So did anyone have a nice chat with the anovos people in SDCC booth ?! Lol [emoji23] I wanna read what happened! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I took the face/cap back apart. I filled in the holes with some ABS paste and added some small pieces of ABS sheeting behind the repairs to make things a little more structurally sound in there. Reattached things so the tubes were more in line with each other. Then got to work on trimming the fronts of the ears down. Much better now, methinks! Befores and afters: I also removed some extra material from around the eyes. I have the most difficult time seeing exactly how much to remove off of them. I stare at the screen refs, and I still don't see it as well as I'd like to. Seems okay to me? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Thanks again to Paul for the suggestions for the ear fix!

Its done :-) Kit: How it looks roughly assembled (not painted) Pre Orders will ship out next week, as I am waiting on the first batch of lenses. To place an order click the link below, where we will collect your information, when we are ready we will raise a PayPal Invoice and get your order underway! www.bit.ly/TLJStormtrooper All the best, Dino

The next step was to make the Scarif Logo on the blast shield, I have a Silhouette cutter so I just fired up the software and cut a printing mask out. I used shield tape to wrap the helmet - the last thing I wanted was Red Toyota paint everywhere! So with the paint finally cured it was time to get weathering and this stuff comes out at a bit of a rate! while it was tacky I ran some heavy grit sand paper over it, then once cured fine grit to give it a slightly faded finish. Due to my other job - I have a whole arrangement of pigments and weathering products at hand so naturally grabbed the following: Oil Paints -Blacks, Browns and Beiges Tamiya Panel Line Inks - Black Tamiya Panel Line Inks - Dark Brown Tamiya Panel Line Inks - Brown Mig Weathering - Engine oil Mig Weathering - Wet Mud Mig Weathering - North Africa Dust The trick is to work slowly letting each level dry fully and seal before starting the next. starting with the Darkest first. I'm still waiting on the lens as well as the chin strap, as well as the internal padding. So here is the finished product!

Home Depot is currently running a sale on their Husky 37" Mobile job box. It has wheels , a handle and locks. A great size to keep all your armor in while going back and forth from trooping. I've seen quite a few people that are already using these and say they work well.. just thought I would put it out there. It is on sale for $ 49.99. Not a bad deal at all.