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Lee_C_77

501st Member[501st]
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About Lee_C_77

  • Rank
    Corporal

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    London

Standard Info

  • Name
    Lee
  • 501st ID
    22510
  • 501st Unit
    U.K. Garrison

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195 profile views
  1. I know not everyone who ordered the armour is on here or the fb groups. But in total there are about 5 confirmed kits on them. Even if only 25% of the kits belong to members here and FB that would only be around 20 kits in the wild. What’s really annoying is the photos from the SWGE ROTR with all the troopers in Anovos kits. Seems that Disney got supplied, whilst everybody else waits.
  2. Good shout. I’ve glued the biceps and thighs tonight. Forearms need to be able to open to get my wrists in, so that will be magnets. Shins will be Velcro on the inside leg. The Anovos kit is paper thin around the rear of the neck area. Maybe less than half a mm. Adding some plastic sheet inside. Photos to follow once it’s dried. I’m guessing that all of the early Anovos kits needed reinforcing inside too. It doesn’t look pretty, but it’s needed to keep the flex to a minimum. Hopefully they start to get some kits out soon Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Regarding the Velcro, as it’s TLJ armour, the arms and legs all have overlap joints that open to help put them on. The instructions say to use Velcro to close them. This isn’t going to work either. due to the thickness of velcro it leaves a 4–5mm gap on the overlap and looks horrible. I’m thinking of using a few 0.75mm magnets to close instead. Whilst the gap with the Velcro is only noticeable when you look close up, it looks awful and is one of those things that will bug me.
  4. Ab section mods for Butt, cod and belt. I changed the way the butt and cod attach to the flaps at the bottom of the ab section too. Anovos say to use Velcro but I don’t think that it was man enough. I tried putting snaps straight to the flaps but this was too rigid. There needs to be a little give in them for movement. On the rear part, I trimmed away part of 2 of the flaps and glued 50mm webbing each side. Then I used snaps. The 2 inner facing snaps will line up with snaps on the butt connection, allowing a secure and flexible attachment. The snaps facing outwards will be used to attach the belt and stop it slipping or rotating. More on that later. For the front I did something similar. I cut 2 sections away and fixed webbing in. The 2 snaps line up with the snaps on the cod. The centre one will attach to the belt. Also, anybody building this kit, ignore/throw away the instructions. They are pointless and basically say to use Velcro to connect everything together. Also, the templates they give you for the Kit Kat parts on the shins have the holes in the wrong place. They don’t line up so be aware. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Thanks for the kind words. Hopefully kits will start shipping soon. I noticed that another deadline has been and gone without any updates. Yoke assembly This part has been the biggest PITA to get right. The way the instructions tell you to assemble it is by using Velcro on the shoulder joint to hold the front and back parts together. Whilst this would work, if going for clearance, the joint needs to be seamless. I thought that this would simply be a case of filling and blending. But it isn’t. Here’s a picture of the 2 halves glued together with Devcon plastic weld and a first layer of poly flex filler. It’s a small picture as I forgot to take one and edited one from further along. With this glued and dried there is a hell of a lot of flex on the yoke. Far too much. It flexes so much that it puts pressure on the area around the joint, to the extent that it will split and crack. To remedy this I bought some of the brackets from UKSWrath to support the seam and joint. These things are great. With a little mod, they fit perfectly and really do stiffen the whole of the shoulder area. These are really easy to fit. They need a slot cutting on the yoke, then bending slightly to fit, before being glued in. But note that 1 of the small parts at the top needs removing due to the Anovos return edge not being deep enough to accommodate it. And don’t forget to glue a small piece of abs to the top of the flaps that protrude through the yoke to support the shoulders. See picture below. Whilst the bracket really stiffens you the yoke, it does cause another problem. It moves the stress away from the shoulder areas to another area. If you think of the arm opening as a clock, it moves the stress point from 12 o’clock, to 10 and 2 o’clock. I noticed stress marks in these areas. I tried to photograph them but it’s hard to see them. To rectify this I reinforced the areas by heating plastic sheets up and cutting/shaping them inside the yoke. Until you end up with something like this. So, with all of the reinforcing done, I gave a final fill to the seams, after using primer to look for imperfections. And I ended up with this. And the yoke is now ready for primer and paint. I’m fairly sure that like all the other abs yokes, it will crack and need repairs but apart from reinforcing it, there’s not a lot you can do. EDIT Don’t forget to fix 2 snaps to the metal shoulder supports. These attach with elastic to snaps inside the shoulder bell. If you want, you could slot the elastic through the yoke but it leaves it very thin and at risk of splitting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Forearm mods To try and make the forearms better I did the following. Trimmed the return edge from the part to be modded. Considering it was pre trimmed it was rough anyway. Then I heated some abs sheet. I heated it a few times, progressively shaping it. Once happy, I glued it inside the arm. Then cut another piece to sit on top, bringing it flush to the armour. Before I filled the joint with polytek. It might need a little more shaping but I’m fairly happy with it.
  7. And here’s the screen caps. Had to change to Tapatalk. My photos are no longer appearing on this site for some reason.
  8. Forearms Unfortunately, the forearms are a really poor shape. The top part cuts too deep when compared to screen caps. All the BS about perfecting accuracy and scanning screen used parts , they really messed this part up. Anyway, I was told that these were ok for clearance, but I wanted to mod them to make them a little better. Unfortunately I’ve struggled to get consistent screen caps. I’m thinking that the top may have been trimmed slightly to suit the person in the armour on screen. here’s Anovos effort
  9. Thanks. Hope your kit arrives soon. There are a fair few issues with the kit. The instructions are pointless. There’s no way you can use Velcro on the kit and get clearance. And regarding the ab section, I think anyone with a 36” waist or above will struggle. The TD plate Is maybe 6inch wife andmust cover the rear split part. My waist is 32” and there’s a 2 “ gap already.
  10. TD backplate This was my first real problem. The design and curve of the backplate is not curved properly. With the ab section not cut up the rear, it fits. When you open the ab section up to fit you, it obviously throws the shape out into more of a curve. Also, they say use Velcro to secure it. This is insufficient for this part due to 2 things. The TD is cast and is fairly heavy. Also, Velcro doesn’t pull the plate in tight and leaves gaps at the edges, which look awful. Here’s what I did to get this to fit. I used some angled plastic to sit in the internal top part of the TD holder. This hooks over to top of the ab section rear and supports the weight of the whole piece, keeping it nice and secure. Then I glued 5mm earth magnets to the lower sides of the TD holder. A thin piece of plastic sheet glued on this, with 2 more magnets on top of that. I then glued 2 5mm magnets inside the armour. Once fitted, it fits and holds really well. I also had to trim the edges of the TD holder slightly to fit the curve of the ab section.
  11. AB Section The ab section has internal overlap strips built in so that they join together. Anovos instructions state to use Velcro, but the crl says seamless. I used devcon plastic weld to glue the 2 halves together. This then means that unless you have a 28” waist that it needs opening along the back. I cut along the rear line, and used snaps and elastic to close it. Even though my waist and chest aren’t huge, there’s a 50mm gap at the lower part of the back, and a 100mm gap at the top. This is ok and is covered by the TD back plate. Withe the ab section glued and cut, I used poly flex flexible body filler to fill the seams that run up the sides of the ab and back section. I mixed it and applied it from a syringe, using a silicone former to spread and shape it. It dries very very quickly and is flexible.
  12. Right. Finally getting round to posting this up on here. I’m almost ready for painting so I thought I’d show what I’ve done so far. Kit was ordered September 2016. Received about 8 weeks ago, minus the lid and the gaskets. This is ok as I have gaskets from GP. I also ordered a lid from sanotized creations. This brings me on to the next point. I had a paint shop unsuccessfully try to match a paint with the armour. It is not possible. They matched it but when you go from being inside to outside and vice vests, the shade of white changes, due to the properties of the plastic. We decided, to keep things uniform, to paint the whole kit and get a lid that requires painting. I’ve seen a few Anovos kids on painted kits that haven’t 100% matched and I didn’t want this. mom a side note, I think that anyone building this kit will have to paint it. Even the suggested paint, that Anovos recommend for the resin parts does not match 100%. Some quick pointers. The yoke needs filling and reinforcing, the ab section needs filling at the seams, the forearms need modifying and the TD backplate needs modifying. More on those later. Here’s what comes with the kit.
  13. Thanks guys. I know it’s taken a while but the kit really is top notch. So much easier than a regular TK. Everything comes pre trimmed so it’s just a case of gluing it together. The Anovos instructions are awful. They say use Velcro almost everywhere like their OTTK. A bit of advice. Don’t bother with them. Make it up as you go along. In a few hours I’ve rigged the abs, cod, butt, legs and spats. Sure, there’s 2 seams to fill on the waist, and the yoke joint to fill, but my brother does car painting and said that it should be easy to paint match and feather in without painting the whole kit. The forearms aren’t great. The shape is a little wrong so I’m waiting on our GMLs input. All in all, it’s a great kit. Was I worth the wait? I’ll let you know when it’s finished. Would i pre order from Anovos again? No chance.
  14. Forgot to say that my red pauldron and FOTK kit came last week, minus the gaskets and the lid.
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