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RankAndFileTrooper

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About RankAndFileTrooper

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    Sergeant
  • Birthday 11/02/1976

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    kun.andras@yahoo.de

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    Munich, Germany

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  • Name
    Andras
  • 501st Unit
    German Garrison

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  1. Thanks skyone for the heads up! We in the lightsaber building community struggled a lot with fake DFPlayers in the past until we found out that the market is swamped with fakes.
  2. Added a link to skyone`s excellent FX Blaster Easy Assembly Kit v1.1, which is an option for a cheap but reliable build (Tier2). The used parts are compatible with FX-BlasterOS. Here is the link again for your reference: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/?do=findComment&comment=646230
  3. Included a full wiring diagram for a Tier2 homebrew solution in the opening post. Have fun making your prop to a true sci-fi blaster which does not only look, but feel and sounds like one!
  4. Hi fellow 501st Legion members, After nearly 3 years of development and refinement of the hardware and the code, I'm happy to announce that the currently most advanced blaster firmware FX-BlasterOS (previously known as Proto Blaster Platform) goes open-source, freely downloadable for anyone. To get an impression of the features you can implement now for free, look at the Intro Video on YouTube. For Easter Eggs, make sure you watch it till the end : FX-BlasterOS Intro Video With the software going open-source, you have multiple choices too to build your blaster electronics: Tier1: if you want a high-quality, proven solution which optimally supports all features of FX-BlasterOS, follow the below link: You advantage: - proven, tested - small enough to fit into any blaster - you can charge your Li-Ion battery over USB - comes with extensive power saving options for a sleep mode which can sustain your prop for several months on the shelf - comes already pre-installed with full version of FX-BlasterOS Tier2: you can stick together your own electronics from cheap parts, look how easy it is using Arduino boards and breakouts (see also the Shoping list below for details): To ease programming for those who are not (yet) familier with Arduino, there are detailed working instructions how to do it on the Wiki Page of the Git. In case of anz trouble of technical support request, use the Issue tab of the Git. There is also the possibility to source a carrier board for the cheap components, hugely simplifying the task of soldering and making the electronics more reliable. You can use skyone's excellent rider board which can be used with components compatible with FX-BlasterOS. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/?do=findComment&comment=646230 Shopping List Here is also a shopping list for you of components you will need: Arduino Board: Arduino Nano (actually any Atmega328P based board, wiring examples will be shown for the Nano): ebay search term: Arduino Nano v3 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nano-V3-0-ATmega-328-Board-CH340-USB-Chip-Arduino-Kompatibel/252742123829?hash=item3ad89ac135:g:xCEAAOSwPGtb33e0:rk:1:pf:0 DFPlayer Mini: ebay search term: "DFPlayer mini". Please ask the seller if the module comes with the original manufacturer's YX5200-24SS or YX6300-24SS chipset. You will also want to have a 470 Ohm thru hole resistor to connect the D8 of the Nano to the RX of the DFPlayer. https://www.ebay.de/itm/TF-Card-U-Disk-Mini-MP3-Player-Audio-Voice-Modul-Arduino-DFPlayer-Tafel-AIP/153290978607?hash=item23b0dab52f:g:uewAAOSwP6pbtdXJ:rk:1:pf:0 Speaker: recommended are OD: 20mm or 28mm Impedance´╗┐: 8Ohm Power: 1W to 2W ebay search term: "20mm 2W 8Ohm speaker" Examples: https://www.ebay.de/itm/2pc-Audio-Speaker-20mm-8Ohm-8-2W-Stereo-Woofer-Trumpet-Horn-Loudspeaker-Power/162171125788?hash=item25c227001c:g:WRgAAOSwMtxXsvaV:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/28mm-8-Ohm-2W-Round-Speaker-For-DCC-Sound-Like-Loksound-Hornby-Bachmann-Zimo/263578226658?hash=item3d5e7c8fe2:g:BToAAOSwm-Zavo6p:rk:2:pf:0 Neopixel Sticks (for PLI/Status bar): ebay search term: "WS2812 stick" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-NeoPixel-Stick-8-x-WS2812-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-Driver-for-Arduino-r3/272010992457?hash=item3f551e5b49:g:7YMAAOSw7aBVBxRo:rk:7:pf:0 Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!) Single neopixel on round PCB (for nozzle light): ebay search term: "neopixel flora" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-Flora-RGB-Smart-NeoPixel-version-2-Pack-of-4-ADA1260/231237003534?epid=1028248696&hash=item35d6cca90e:g:LGoAAOSwNC5ZezSY:rk:6:pf:0 The original design is from Adafruit, please support the development by purchasing Adafruit products. You can also find similar offers on eBay from cheaper sources as well. Neopixel stripes (for barrel ligting): ebay search term: "WS2812 stripe" https://www.ebay.de/itm/5m-30-60-144-RGB-LED-Streifen-Stripe-mit-WS2812B-5050-SMD-LEDs-WS2812-Versand-DE/222192610445?hash=item33bbb62c8d:m:mR_Pz7NGzDUQhwH1s-6BFvg:rk:1:pf:0 Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!). As most blaster props are black it is recommended to buy a non-waterproof, 60LED/m type of pixel stripe. The striper are soldered together every 0.5m, but you can shorten the stripes easily to any lenght using scrissors, cutting the stripe at the copper landings. Momentary Switch: ebay search term: "momentary switch" or "tactile switch" You will need a single momentary (not latching!!!) swicth for the MK1, MK2 and MK3 builds, two for MK4 and MK5. For the trigger it is recommended to use a switch with a long arm like this one: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Mikroschalter-Mikrotaster-mit-langem-Hebel-250V-3A-125V-5A-S67/330793297018?epid=1154680769&hash=item4d04d1247a:g:8EgAAMXQlrxRcPJ9:rk:1:pf:0 For the mode select, aux. switch you can take the momentary switch of your choice, they come in an infinite variety, take the one which suits your needs. I myself like these small ones: https://www.ebay.de/itm/6mm-x-6mm-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-Micro-Momentary-Tact-Assortment-Kit-TE948/283285172378?hash=item41f51cb09a:g:SjoAAOSwo-VcAmNI:rk:9:pf:0 OLED Display with 128x32 resolution with I2C interface: ebay search term: "OLED 128*32" I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/0-91-128x32-IIC-I2C-Blue-OLED-Display-DIY-Module-DC3-3V-5V-128-32-Arduino/322536659354?hash=item4b18aed99a:g:ag8AAOSwK6RZLbR9:rk:5:pf:0 or for the scope a smaller one of type "OLED 64x48 I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/4pin-White-0-66-Screen-IIC-I2C-0-66in-OLED-Display-Module-64x48-for-AVR-STM32/272861748083?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Connectors for switches, speaker etc.: ebay search term: "micro JST 2-pin" For 2-wire connections like for switches, speaker, I recommend micro JST connectors with 1.25mm pitch: https://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Paar-2Pin-1-25-1-25mm-1-25mm-GH-Micro-JST-Stecker-Buchse-10cm-28AWG-Kabel-RC/172626910637?hash=item28315d9dad:g:XHsAAOSwux5YTaEB:rk:3:pf:0 2.1mm recharge port: https://www.ebay.de/itm/DC-Einbaubuchse-Stift-2-1-mm-geschlossene-Bauart-Lotanschlus-fur-Hohlstecker/141127499530?hash=item20dbdabf0a:g:4mIAAOSww~xZ1KXj:rk:9:pf:0 Micro- and/or Mini-USB breakout boards: ebay search term: "micro USB breakout" or "mini USB breakout" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Micro-USB-Platine-Adapter-fur-Breadboard-DIP-DIL-Breakout-Board-Arduino/183233499430?hash=item2aa9915126:g:kywAAOSwm8NbAIfU:rk:6:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-USB-Mini-B-Breakout-Board/272373312981?epid=1663565126&hash=item3f6ab6edd5:g:8BYAAOSwIIFbML51:rk:3:pf:0
  5. does the mk1 come with lights, wiring etc plz ?

  6. OK, I try now to replace the embedded video (which obvoously does not work on whitearmor) with a link to YouTube which you can click on. Now it must work.
  7. Thanks Harbringer! I have actually no idea how come it does not work, I see it, but many people have problems seeing embedded videos in my threads. Any idea what can be the issue? I simply copy the Youtube link and paste it into the thread.
  8. <moved topic from HWT, as it better fits here> A friend of mine and expert prop builder built me a screen accurate DLT-19, we wanted to make it electronics ready so in the middle an easily accessible compartment was left empty to house the gadgets I wanted to control sound and light effects with. I knew I wanted to make this excellent piece of prop unique, therefore I added some extra features as I troop regularly with this heavy blaster (I will not say more, look at the video to find out more ) Component list of the electronics: - Proto Blaster MK5 ( https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury ) - Adafruit 60LED/m, black PCB Neopixel stripe wrapped into packing foam for better diffusion - Adafruit neopixel strick (8 LED) for the status bar/PLI - Adafruit Flora single neopixel on a round PCB for the nozzle light, with a 20mm Carclo optic - 2 illuminated AV switches for the 2 buttons, one is the trigger and the other one is for mode change, reload etc. - 3.7V Li-Ion battery, type 18500 (shorter than the widely used 18650, but still has a large capacity ~2000mAh) - a VECO high-end, 2W 8Ohm, bass speaker - a rumble motor for additional haptic feedback when shooting ( you wanna feel the power surge ) - 128x32 white OLED display for status info, ammo count, screen accurate Hengstler counter The neopixel stripe (2 glued back to back for even better illumination) runs the whole lenght of the barell, with a single pixel in the nozzle. And here is the video showing how it works: In case your browser does not show the embedded video, simply copy this URL and watch it on YouTube: https://youtu.be/z8scAd3hezk
  9. I tried to fix the link and also copied the link text in case it does not want to work. You can simply copy the URL text and open it in your browser, if the embedded video will now show.
  10. Problem might be on your side, I see the vid embedded. It is on YouTube
  11. A friend of mine and expert prop builder built me a screen accurate DLT-19, we wanted to make it electronics ready so in the middle an easily accessible compartment was left empty to house the electronics I wanted to control sound and light effects. I knew I wanted to make this excellent piece of prop unique, therefore I added some extra features for HWT as I troop regularly with this heavy blaster (I will not say more, look at the video to find out more ) Component list of the electronics: - Proto Blaster MK5 ( https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury ) - Adafruit 60LED/m, black PCB Neopixel stripe wrapped into packing foam for better diffusion - Adafruit neopixel strick (8 LED) for the status bar/PLI - Adafruit Flora single neopixel on a round PCB for the nozzle light, with a 20mm Carclo optic - 2 illuminated AV switches for the 2 buttons, one is the trigger and the other one is for mode change, reload etc. - 3.7V Li-Ion battery, type 18500 (shorter than the widely used 18650, but still has a large capacity ~2000mAh) - a VECO high-end, 2W 8Ohm, bass speaker - a rumble motor for additional haptic feedback when shooting ( you wanna feel the power surge ) - 128x32 white OLED display for status info, ammo count, screen accurate Hengstler counter The neopixel stripe (2 glued back to back for even better illumination) runs the whole lenght of the barell, with a single pixel in the nozzle. And here is the video showing how it works: In case your browser does not show the embedded video, simply copy this URL and watch it on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8scAd3hezk
  12. Protowerkstatt Homepage The site is still under construction, but order info for the Stardust V2 you can already find here: https://www.protowerkstatt.com/diyino-prop-boards
  13. As promised, for those who want to use the neopixel stick as bargraph/status bar, I uploaded the 3D model file for 2 to 8 segment bargraph to Thingiverse, free to use, enjoy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783648 Put a packing wrap and a clear plastic sheet on top of the stick for additional diffusion and it will look great!
  14. It already exists. It can be quite easily be made using a Nano board. Usually I use neopixel stripes for the barrel, 60LED/m variants are perfect. The neopixel stick you can use for PLI or bargraph. For wiring you can use this one, for sure you will not need the MPU: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/wiki/Wiring#homebrew-pixel-blade For a full blaster code using only neopixels as lightning you can visit: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS The code is written for any Arduino board using the Atmega328P like Nano, Micro etc. The library to drive the pixels is also included: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS/tree/master/libraries/light_WS2812 I also made a long time ago an E11 using neopixels. You can do it with a Nano, just need a digital I/O to drive the pixels.
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