Hi fellow 501st Legion members,
After nearly 3 years of development and refinement of the hardware and the code, I'm happy to announce that the currently most advanced blaster firmware
(previously known as Proto Blaster Platform) goes open-source, freely downloadable for anyone.
To get an impression of the features you can implement now for free, look at the Intro Video on YouTube. For Easter Eggs, make sure you watch it till the end :
FX-BlasterOS Intro Video
With the software going open-source, you have multiple choices too to build your blaster electronics:
Tier1: if you want a high-quality, proven solution which optimally supports all features of FX-BlasterOS, follow the below link:
- proven, tested
- small enough to fit into any blaster
- you can charge your Li-Ion battery over USB
- comes with extensive power saving options for a sleep mode which can sustain your prop for several months on the shelf
- comes already pre-installed with full version of FX-BlasterOS
Tier2: you can stick together your own electronics from cheap parts, look how easy it is using Arduino boards and breakouts (see also the Shoping list below for details):
To ease programming for those who are not (yet) familier with Arduino, there are detailed working instructions how to do it on the Wiki Page of the Git. In case of anz trouble of technical support request, use the Issue tab of the Git.
There is also the possibility to source a carrier board for the cheap components, hugely simplifying the task of soldering and making the electronics more reliable. You can use skyone's excellent rider board which can be used with components compatible with FX-BlasterOS.
Here is also a shopping list for you of components you will need:
Arduino Board: Arduino Nano (actually any Atmega328P based board, wiring examples will be shown for the Nano):
ebay search term: Arduino Nano v3
ebay search term: "DFPlayer mini". Please ask the seller if the module comes with the original manufacturer's YX5200-24SS or YX6300-24SS chipset. You will also want to have a 470 Ohm thru hole resistor to connect the D8 of the Nano to the RX of the DFPlayer.
Speaker: recommended are
OD: 20mm or 28mm
Power: 1W to 2W
ebay search term: "20mm 2W 8Ohm speaker"
Examples: https://www.ebay.de/itm/2pc-Audio-Speaker-20mm-8Ohm-8-2W-Stereo-Woofer-Trumpet-Horn-Loudspeaker-Power/162171125788?hash=item25c227001c:g:WRgAAOSwMtxXsvaV:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/28mm-8-Ohm-2W-Round-Speaker-For-DCC-Sound-Like-Loksound-Hornby-Bachmann-Zimo/263578226658?hash=item3d5e7c8fe2:g:BToAAOSwm-Zavo6p:rk:2:pf:0
Neopixel Sticks (for PLI/Status bar):
ebay search term: "WS2812 stick" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-NeoPixel-Stick-8-x-WS2812-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-Driver-for-Arduino-r3/272010992457?hash=item3f551e5b49:g:7YMAAOSw7aBVBxRo:rk:7:pf:0
Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!)
Single neopixel on round PCB (for nozzle light):
ebay search term: "neopixel flora" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-Flora-RGB-Smart-NeoPixel-version-2-Pack-of-4-ADA1260/231237003534?epid=1028248696&hash=item35d6cca90e:g:LGoAAOSwNC5ZezSY:rk:6:pf:0
The original design is from Adafruit, please support the development by purchasing Adafruit products. You can also find similar offers on eBay from cheaper sources as well.
Neopixel stripes (for barrel ligting):
ebay search term: "WS2812 stripe" https://www.ebay.de/itm/5m-30-60-144-RGB-LED-Streifen-Stripe-mit-WS2812B-5050-SMD-LEDs-WS2812-Versand-DE/222192610445?hash=item33bbb62c8d:m:mR_Pz7NGzDUQhwH1s-6BFvg:rk:1:pf:0
Important: type shall be WS2812/WS2812B 5050 RGB (not RGBW!!!) or sk6218 3535 RGB (not RGBW!!!). As most blaster props are black it is recommended to buy a non-waterproof, 60LED/m type of pixel stripe.
The striper are soldered together every 0.5m, but you can shorten the stripes easily to any lenght using scrissors, cutting the stripe at the copper landings.
ebay search term: "momentary switch" or "tactile switch"
You will need a single momentary (not latching!!!) swicth for the MK1, MK2 and MK3 builds, two for MK4 and MK5.
For the trigger it is recommended to use a switch with a long arm like this one: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Mikroschalter-Mikrotaster-mit-langem-Hebel-250V-3A-125V-5A-S67/330793297018?epid=1154680769&hash=item4d04d1247a:g:8EgAAMXQlrxRcPJ9:rk:1:pf:0
For the mode select, aux. switch you can take the momentary switch of your choice, they come in an infinite variety, take the one which suits your needs. I myself like these small ones: https://www.ebay.de/itm/6mm-x-6mm-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-Micro-Momentary-Tact-Assortment-Kit-TE948/283285172378?hash=item41f51cb09a:g:SjoAAOSwo-VcAmNI:rk:9:pf:0
OLED Display with 128x32 resolution with I2C interface:
ebay search term: "OLED 128*32" I2C" https://www.ebay.de/itm/0-91-128x32-IIC-I2C-Blue-OLED-Display-DIY-Module-DC3-3V-5V-128-32-Arduino/322536659354?hash=item4b18aed99a:g:ag8AAOSwK6RZLbR9:rk:5:pf:0
or for the scope a smaller one of type "OLED 64x48 I2C"
Connectors for switches, speaker etc.:
ebay search term: "micro JST 2-pin"
For 2-wire connections like for switches, speaker, I recommend micro JST connectors with 1.25mm pitch: https://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Paar-2Pin-1-25-1-25mm-1-25mm-GH-Micro-JST-Stecker-Buchse-10cm-28AWG-Kabel-RC/172626910637?hash=item28315d9dad:g:XHsAAOSwux5YTaEB:rk:3:pf:0
2.1mm recharge port: https://www.ebay.de/itm/DC-Einbaubuchse-Stift-2-1-mm-geschlossene-Bauart-Lotanschlus-fur-Hohlstecker/141127499530?hash=item20dbdabf0a:g:4mIAAOSww~xZ1KXj:rk:9:pf:0
Micro- and/or Mini-USB breakout boards:
ebay search term: "micro USB breakout" or "mini USB breakout" https://www.ebay.de/itm/Micro-USB-Platine-Adapter-fur-Breadboard-DIP-DIL-Breakout-Board-Arduino/183233499430?hash=item2aa9915126:g:kywAAOSwm8NbAIfU:rk:6:pf:0 https://www.ebay.de/itm/Adafruit-USB-Mini-B-Breakout-Board/272373312981?epid=1663565126&hash=item3f6ab6edd5:g:8BYAAOSwIIFbML51:rk:3:pf:0