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RankAndFileTrooper

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About RankAndFileTrooper

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    Sergeant
  • Birthday 11/02/1976

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    kun.andras@yahoo.de

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    Male
  • Location
    Munich, Germany

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  • Name
    Andras
  • 501st Unit
    German Garrison

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  1. does the mk1 come with lights, wiring etc plz ?

  2. RankAndFileTrooper

    Heavy Weapon Squad DLT-19 by RankAndFileTrooper

    OK, I try now to replace the embedded video (which obvoously does not work on whitearmor) with a link to YouTube which you can click on. Now it must work.
  3. RankAndFileTrooper

    Heavy Weapon Squad DLT-19 by RankAndFileTrooper

    Thanks Harbringer! I have actually no idea how come it does not work, I see it, but many people have problems seeing embedded videos in my threads. Any idea what can be the issue? I simply copy the Youtube link and paste it into the thread.
  4. <moved topic from HWT, as it better fits here> A friend of mine and expert prop builder built me a screen accurate DLT-19, we wanted to make it electronics ready so in the middle an easily accessible compartment was left empty to house the gadgets I wanted to control sound and light effects with. I knew I wanted to make this excellent piece of prop unique, therefore I added some extra features as I troop regularly with this heavy blaster (I will not say more, look at the video to find out more ) Component list of the electronics: - Proto Blaster MK5 ( https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury ) - Adafruit 60LED/m, black PCB Neopixel stripe wrapped into packing foam for better diffusion - Adafruit neopixel strick (8 LED) for the status bar/PLI - Adafruit Flora single neopixel on a round PCB for the nozzle light, with a 20mm Carclo optic - 2 illuminated AV switches for the 2 buttons, one is the trigger and the other one is for mode change, reload etc. - 3.7V Li-Ion battery, type 18500 (shorter than the widely used 18650, but still has a large capacity ~2000mAh) - a VECO high-end, 2W 8Ohm, bass speaker - a rumble motor for additional haptic feedback when shooting ( you wanna feel the power surge ) - 128x32 white OLED display for status info, ammo count, screen accurate Hengstler counter The neopixel stripe (2 glued back to back for even better illumination) runs the whole lenght of the barell, with a single pixel in the nozzle. And here is the video showing how it works: In case your browser does not show the embedded video, simply copy this URL and watch it on YouTube: https://youtu.be/z8scAd3hezk
  5. RankAndFileTrooper

    HWT DLT-19 build with electronics

    I tried to fix the link and also copied the link text in case it does not want to work. You can simply copy the URL text and open it in your browser, if the embedded video will now show.
  6. RankAndFileTrooper

    HWT DLT-19 build with electronics

    Problem might be on your side, I see the vid embedded. It is on YouTube
  7. RankAndFileTrooper

    HWT DLT-19 build with electronics

    A friend of mine and expert prop builder built me a screen accurate DLT-19, we wanted to make it electronics ready so in the middle an easily accessible compartment was left empty to house the electronics I wanted to control sound and light effects. I knew I wanted to make this excellent piece of prop unique, therefore I added some extra features for HWT as I troop regularly with this heavy blaster (I will not say more, look at the video to find out more ) Component list of the electronics: - Proto Blaster MK5 ( https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury ) - Adafruit 60LED/m, black PCB Neopixel stripe wrapped into packing foam for better diffusion - Adafruit neopixel strick (8 LED) for the status bar/PLI - Adafruit Flora single neopixel on a round PCB for the nozzle light, with a 20mm Carclo optic - 2 illuminated AV switches for the 2 buttons, one is the trigger and the other one is for mode change, reload etc. - 3.7V Li-Ion battery, type 18500 (shorter than the widely used 18650, but still has a large capacity ~2000mAh) - a VECO high-end, 2W 8Ohm, bass speaker - a rumble motor for additional haptic feedback when shooting ( you wanna feel the power surge ) - 128x32 white OLED display for status info, ammo count, screen accurate Hengstler counter The neopixel stripe (2 glued back to back for even better illumination) runs the whole lenght of the barell, with a single pixel in the nozzle. And here is the video showing how it works: In case your browser does not show the embedded video, simply copy this URL and watch it on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8scAd3hezk
  8. Protowerkstatt Homepage The site is still under construction, but order info for the Stardust V2 you can already find here: https://www.protowerkstatt.com/diyino-prop-boards
  9. As promised, for those who want to use the neopixel stick as bargraph/status bar, I uploaded the 3D model file for 2 to 8 segment bargraph to Thingiverse, free to use, enjoy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783648 Put a packing wrap and a clear plastic sheet on top of the stick for additional diffusion and it will look great!
  10. It already exists. It can be quite easily be made using a Nano board. Usually I use neopixel stripes for the barrel, 60LED/m variants are perfect. The neopixel stick you can use for PLI or bargraph. For wiring you can use this one, for sure you will not need the MPU: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/wiki/Wiring#homebrew-pixel-blade For a full blaster code using only neopixels as lightning you can visit: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS The code is written for any Arduino board using the Atmega328P like Nano, Micro etc. The library to drive the pixels is also included: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS/tree/master/libraries/light_WS2812 I also made a long time ago an E11 using neopixels. You can do it with a Nano, just need a digital I/O to drive the pixels.
  11. So much about reading minds I've just started to make a homepage this week. While it's still under construction, I hope it can go on-line in the coming week(s). Until that time please browse this thread, you will find all relevant information to be able to order.
  12. Restock of the Stardust B has arrived!!! To take into consideration that the majority of the customers are from the USA, all payments can be done in US$ from now on. Price is 59 US$ This is a price drop compared to the 1st Run, caused by the weak US$! Shipping is 6 US$ worldwide. For other terms and conditions see previous posts. I added a full wiring diagram of the Stardust B which includes all lights, OLED display, trigger etc.
  13. Thanks a lot for the huge interest the Legion showed for my Stardust v2 board. There are a lot of boards on the field now, waiting to be installed into blasters worldwide, please do other users a favor and make photos/videos of your builds and share them. Let's show the guys trooping out there how much more fun a blaster is with proper electronics. The 1st Run is sold out and for the Xmas period I will stop sales. But do not worry, I already made provisions to start a 2nd Run run in January. If you are interested to participate in the 2nd Run, you can leave me a PN and I will include you on the pre-order list. Furthermore, many troopers asked me if I could make a complete shopping list to help them get all the items before their Stardust board arrives. Now it is the right time to write to Santa to get these items in time for the 2nd Run. SHOPPING LIST First In include a pictural overview of the most widely used components used: Battery: You do not need to include a battery with 3000+ mAh, blasters do not consume so much power. Important is to have a Li-Ion/LiPo battery (nominal voltage 3.7V), ideally with a caacity of around 500-1000mAh (of course the more the better, but take care about limited space in your blaster). The Stardust v2 board has an on-board charger chip, so you can skip buying an expensive external charger (saves you 20-30$). I've already built blasters with battery type 10440, but I would recomment a 18350 or 18500 (first 2 digits are the diameter in mm, so 10mm and 18mm respectively, the last 3 digits the lenght in mm, so 44, 35 and 50mm respectively). Speaker: You need a max 3W speaker, recommended is a 2W (easier to come by), with 8Ohm or 4 Ohm resistance. The size should be up to 28mm (but free to take bigger if you have space). If you target to make a blaster which feels perfectly like holding a real blaster, take a Veco, it will make your blaster vibrate !!! VECO bass speaker Ligths generally: all light I use are WS2812B type neopixels. You can easily source them from ebay or other online sources. They originate from Adafruit, so if you can, please suport them by buying directly from them. Light for the barrel: For the barrel I recommend using neopixel strips of the type 60LED/m, or 144LED/m (densest currently on the open market) for a more extreme build): Neopixel stripe Light for the nozzle: You can chain up a single neopixel element called a Flora to the end of the barrel stripe, believe me, unless you want to cause permanent damage to the eye of event visitors, the brightness of a Flora is more than enough to impress everyone. Of course you are free to include whatever LED you want to the front. To make the light seem more focussed, you can take a 20mm Carclo lense and glue it to the Flora (they are meant for high-power LEDs like the tri Cree for which you can take the same lense) Adafruit neopixel Floras Status LEDs: They are for status dislay, you can use them to display ammo or currently selected mode, like I show in some of my videos. They can replace or complement an OLED status display. They are the same neopixels are the stripes and the Floras, but slightly more dense than even the 144LED/m and on a rigid PCB, which lends itself better to build it in facing outwards. Adafruit neopixel sticks Trigger switch: Take one with a long lever. You might have to look for it on international sites, but I can link in one from a German vendor to show how it looks like: momentary switch with long lever OLED display: An OLED status display makes an awesome mod to your blaster, it can be used for multiple purposes from ammo count display to intro screen etc. Make sure you pick one with 128x32 dots using I2C interface (4 pins, GND, VCC, SCL, SDA). Color white or blue. 128x32 I2C OLED dislay
  14. Here are pictures from my DoopyDoo E11 blaster, I uploaded the new code using the Star Wars font characters, this is how it looks like on a 128x32 OLED display:
  15. OK, noted. I assumed - probably wrongly - that the basics of how to drive an OLED display were discussed in this thread already. I personally think it adds a new flavor to any blaster builds and a 128x32 OLED dislay can be driven confortably with a Nano or Micro. I will compile an information package and post them together with some pics. For those who already used OLED displays with Arduino, the piece of code and the link to the font file say it all.
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