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About RankAndFileTrooper

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  • Birthday 11/02/1976

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    Munich, Germany

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  • 501st Unit
    German Garrison

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  1. RankAndFileTrooper

    HWT DLT-19 build with electronics

    I tried to fix the link and also copied the link text in case it does not want to work. You can simply copy the URL text and open it in your browser, if the embedded video will now show.
  2. RankAndFileTrooper

    HWT DLT-19 build with electronics

    Problem might be on your side, I see the vid embedded. It is on YouTube
  3. RankAndFileTrooper

    HWT DLT-19 build with electronics

    A friend of mine and expert prop builder built me a screen accurate DLT-19, we wanted to make it electronics ready so in the middle an easily accessible compartment was left empty to house the electronics I wanted to control sound and light effects. I knew I wanted to make this excellent piece of prop unique, therefore I added some extra features for HWT as I troop regularly with this heavy blaster (I will not say more, look at the video to find out more ) Component list of the electronics: - Proto Blaster MK5 ( https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury ) - Adafruit 60LED/m, black PCB Neopixel stripe wrapped into packing foam for better diffusion - Adafruit neopixel strick (8 LED) for the status bar/PLI - Adafruit Flora single neopixel on a round PCB for the nozzle light, with a 20mm Carclo optic - 2 illuminated AV switches for the 2 buttons, one is the trigger and the other one is for mode change, reload etc. - 3.7V Li-Ion battery, type 18500 (shorter than the widely used 18650, but still has a large capacity ~2000mAh) - a VECO high-end, 2W 8Ohm, bass speaker - a rumble motor for additional haptic feedback when shooting ( you wanna feel the power surge ) - 128x32 white OLED display for status info, ammo count, screen accurate Hengstler counter The neopixel stripe (2 glued back to back for even better illumination) runs the whole lenght of the barell, with a single pixel in the nozzle. And here is the video showing how it works: In case your browser does not show the embedded video, simply copy this URL and watch it on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8scAd3hezk
  4. Now that the first couple of MK3 boards are out to customers around the globe, it's time to walk through assembling an E11 using the board. This tutorial shows how easy it is to include the MK3 into an E11 blaster prop. This particular E11 was built by a friend, I "merely" installed the electronics into it and designed/printed/installed a 3D chassis and a reveal PLI holder. The video showcases the used components, the simplicity of the wiring and a good way to install it into your E11/F11.
  5. The first draft of the User Manual for the MK1, MK2 and MK3 boards is online: LINK Please do not be confused by the draft status, I'm going to polish it up a bit as time goes by, add pics and tutorials, but it already contains all the information you will need to start building your blaster.
  6. I will be working on the User Manual this week for MK1, 2 and 3, hopeing to finish it this week!
  7. If you want to have normal straw hat type of LEDs and still make use of neopixels, look here, these are the ones you are looking for: 5mm straw hat neopixels
  8. These boards are not specific to any blaster type, in fact you can build any blaster with them. As you can see from the demo, I have there an E11, a pair of Bounty Hunter blasters and a Death Guard blaster. A DL-44 is in the making, as well as a DLT-19, which is already being prepared to hold the MK-V. With both the barrel light and the status bar lights being configurable wrt their lengths, and you can distribute the lights to different parts of your blaster, you can use it for an F11-D as well. The MK-III, being the mid-range derivate, comes already with two different, professional blaster fonts. Even better, you can access and change the sounds over the USB port, your PC will see it as a regular pen drive, so if you have dedicated F11-D sounds, replace the ones the board comes pre-loaded with with your own custom sounds. I also did not mention some of the other highlights like being able to charge your battery over USB thanks to the in-built USB charger circuitry. I will also leak so much, that the MK-IV will be a board for screen accurate E11, also usable for F11-D.
  9. Hi fellow 501st Troopers, I'm happy to announce the launch of my pre-programmed, ready to use and easy to install Blaster electronics platform, the Proto Blaster. https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury User Manual: LINK These tiny boards are a result of more than 2 years of work, born our of Arduino based software development for Star Wars themed blasters and lightsaber props. During this time I had the privilege to work together with many users, helping them to create their own props and getting valuable feedback from them. One recurring wish from the community was to develop a board which: - comes already installed with the software as well as: - easy to use - easy to install - scalable - affordable Full neopixel light-effects The Proto Blaster cores are all of these and more! They are the first and only fully neopixel based blaster cores. These individually programmable, serialized RGB LEDs make it possible to implement never-seen-before visual effects, like the blaster fire traversing through the barell without interruptions due to segmented LEDs or precice, screen-accurate stun effects. And more to come!!! Affordable At the same time the first of the platform, the MK-III comes at a price point nearly half of comparable other poducts, making these cores best value in price. Ready-to-use The Proto Blaster boards do not need any programming or tweaking, they work right out of the box. They come pre-installed with the blaster core firmware and sound files on the on-board Flash. You wire it up and fire it up! Scalability The concept of the Proto Blaster is to have a platform of cores with scalable set of features covering the whole range of blaster functionalities from budget to high-end. To this end I decided to make five different levels of cores, called MK-I to MK-V. I start in-medias-res with an excellent mid-range core, the MK-III, working my way down and up to offer everyone the core fitting to his/her needs. Easy-to-Install These boards were first and foremost architected to be easy to install into the limited space of blaster props by even users with limited eperience with electronics of any type. They have a signal layout which is easy to solder thanks to the logical placement of the signals on the PCB and the generously dimensioned thru-holes Because a good demo tells more than a thousand words, I include a video of the MK-III in action.
  10. Protowerkstatt Homepage The site is still under construction, but order info for the Stardust V2 you can already find here: https://www.protowerkstatt.com/diyino-prop-boards
  11. As promised, for those who want to use the neopixel stick as bargraph/status bar, I uploaded the 3D model file for 2 to 8 segment bargraph to Thingiverse, free to use, enjoy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2783648 Put a packing wrap and a clear plastic sheet on top of the stick for additional diffusion and it will look great!
  12. It already exists. It can be quite easily be made using a Nano board. Usually I use neopixel stripes for the barrel, 60LED/m variants are perfect. The neopixel stick you can use for PLI or bargraph. For wiring you can use this one, for sure you will not need the MPU: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/wiki/Wiring#homebrew-pixel-blade For a full blaster code using only neopixels as lightning you can visit: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS The code is written for any Arduino board using the Atmega328P like Nano, Micro etc. The library to drive the pixels is also included: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS/tree/master/libraries/light_WS2812 I also made a long time ago an E11 using neopixels. You can do it with a Nano, just need a digital I/O to drive the pixels.
  13. So much about reading minds I've just started to make a homepage this week. While it's still under construction, I hope it can go on-line in the coming week(s). Until that time please browse this thread, you will find all relevant information to be able to order.
  14. Restock of the Stardust B has arrived!!! To take into consideration that the majority of the customers are from the USA, all payments can be done in US$ from now on. Price is 59 US$ This is a price drop compared to the 1st Run, caused by the weak US$! Shipping is 6 US$ worldwide. For other terms and conditions see previous posts. I added a full wiring diagram of the Stardust B which includes all lights, OLED display, trigger etc.
  15. Thanks a lot for the huge interest the Legion showed for my Stardust v2 board. There are a lot of boards on the field now, waiting to be installed into blasters worldwide, please do other users a favor and make photos/videos of your builds and share them. Let's show the guys trooping out there how much more fun a blaster is with proper electronics. The 1st Run is sold out and for the Xmas period I will stop sales. But do not worry, I already made provisions to start a 2nd Run run in January. If you are interested to participate in the 2nd Run, you can leave me a PN and I will include you on the pre-order list. Furthermore, many troopers asked me if I could make a complete shopping list to help them get all the items before their Stardust board arrives. Now it is the right time to write to Santa to get these items in time for the 2nd Run. SHOPPING LIST First In include a pictural overview of the most widely used components used: Battery: You do not need to include a battery with 3000+ mAh, blasters do not consume so much power. Important is to have a Li-Ion/LiPo battery (nominal voltage 3.7V), ideally with a caacity of around 500-1000mAh (of course the more the better, but take care about limited space in your blaster). The Stardust v2 board has an on-board charger chip, so you can skip buying an expensive external charger (saves you 20-30$). I've already built blasters with battery type 10440, but I would recomment a 18350 or 18500 (first 2 digits are the diameter in mm, so 10mm and 18mm respectively, the last 3 digits the lenght in mm, so 44, 35 and 50mm respectively). Speaker: You need a max 3W speaker, recommended is a 2W (easier to come by), with 8Ohm or 4 Ohm resistance. The size should be up to 28mm (but free to take bigger if you have space). If you target to make a blaster which feels perfectly like holding a real blaster, take a Veco, it will make your blaster vibrate !!! VECO bass speaker Ligths generally: all light I use are WS2812B type neopixels. You can easily source them from ebay or other online sources. They originate from Adafruit, so if you can, please suport them by buying directly from them. Light for the barrel: For the barrel I recommend using neopixel strips of the type 60LED/m, or 144LED/m (densest currently on the open market) for a more extreme build): Neopixel stripe Light for the nozzle: You can chain up a single neopixel element called a Flora to the end of the barrel stripe, believe me, unless you want to cause permanent damage to the eye of event visitors, the brightness of a Flora is more than enough to impress everyone. Of course you are free to include whatever LED you want to the front. To make the light seem more focussed, you can take a 20mm Carclo lense and glue it to the Flora (they are meant for high-power LEDs like the tri Cree for which you can take the same lense) Adafruit neopixel Floras Status LEDs: They are for status dislay, you can use them to display ammo or currently selected mode, like I show in some of my videos. They can replace or complement an OLED status display. They are the same neopixels are the stripes and the Floras, but slightly more dense than even the 144LED/m and on a rigid PCB, which lends itself better to build it in facing outwards. Adafruit neopixel sticks Trigger switch: Take one with a long lever. You might have to look for it on international sites, but I can link in one from a German vendor to show how it looks like: momentary switch with long lever OLED display: An OLED status display makes an awesome mod to your blaster, it can be used for multiple purposes from ammo count display to intro screen etc. Make sure you pick one with 128x32 dots using I2C interface (4 pins, GND, VCC, SCL, SDA). Color white or blue. 128x32 I2C OLED dislay