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RankAndFileTrooper

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    Andras
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    German Garrison

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  1. You can have multiple strips in the barell, connecting them in parallel. I.e. both of them are connected to the same DI (digital input) line coming from Arduino. In this case both strips will play the same sequence. If you switch it on and some LEDs constanly light up, it can mean 2 things: - battery is running low, and the PWM registers of the LEDs are filled with random values - you have not yet configured the lenght of the barell, which you can do in the config menu, read the MK-X manual, you can find the link in one of the earlier posts
  2. Connection is the same as for the other OLED depicted on the wiring diagram. Only the size is different, for the scope you need 64x44 dot OLED. The software is prepared for it, see: FX-BlasterOS/Variants.h at master · Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS (github.com) #define OLED_DISPLAY #if defined OLED_DISPLAY //#define OLED_STD #define OLED_SCOPE #endif
  3. Due to information available elsewhere I never fully updated the Wiki, but there is a large amount of overlap with FXSaberOS (same for lightsabers): https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-SaberOS/wiki/Wiring Apart from that the code corresponds to the MK-X variant, you can have a look at the User Manual here: https://cdn.website-editor.net/s/0fa18f3248554d3c9afb7e969924abba/files/uploaded/MK-X_User_Manual_v1.pdf?Expires=1646230822&Signature=bn7zQ~ifh5DsgwOLa7D7I6K4lePzHk0z-~I~gdwFPTIhj8Cu072s767JmV7zJCzD9x-v30YO~Y6LKwdS7TxPpk1WZ3IcwQqi3i88DAU~evSAplujASuq8B9BHQJZ9i~6~FHaaM81jH83ve~FHbLHJC5~ZwSm-7M0mgwMf605zx0ZYwQmnLFx6Edo1hO94ku8JWUhST-y9H5sZHFTsQumiRi7Rx7oyWsRoK9CHAj6OWq590J9yCy084k1YjhaQ2nzL7dpfpBIyjlbiIk1uBc1JuZEh0EXLLtbUZXYbUzK9MCDksn2kxFShl6mjn49Fj0stxsYysNbqWQ-tX6x3aOo0g__&Key-Pair-Id=K2NXBXLF010TJW or from https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury just press on the button "Download MK-X User Manual"
  4. Hi Kevin, Everything you need is already there in the different links. In the post I linked in above you can find the wiring diagram for Arduino Nano, the most commonly available Arduino board. The full code you can find here: https://github.com/Protonerd/FX-BlasterOS If you want to build your own code, you can still have a look to get some inspiration. If you are looking for sound files, you can look here: https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury Have fun! Andras
  5. Hi Naviis, No issue, as long as you give credit and link to this thread as source. Have fun with the builds and thanks fir spreading the word to Mandalore
  6. Hi, First off, you do not need this charger circuit. I also cannot tell you if it's going to work with it. But with 5V your neopixel stripes will draw a lot of current, what you do not want. Stay with the 3.7V of the Li-Ion, you do not need more. OLED you can pick one of them. With multiple circuits both could be enabled for sure. A magnetic switch is actually nothing else than two pieces of magnets, one connected to a GND signal, the other to a digital input on the board. If you short these two magnets with a ferromagnetic material (i.e. piece of iron/steel for instance), it acts like a normal switch plus the magnets will hold the part which is attached to the ferromagnetic material in place (provided it's not too heavy and/or the magnets are strong enough). That's it. And the neopixel stick is just an option, you can take any stripe or even leave it. Actually you should at least have one pixel, even a single one at the front of the nozzle, all the rest is up to you. You can configure the split between the barrel-nozzle and status bar in the menu. Both of them can be set to 0, in which case that segment will not be illuminated.
  7. Dear Swornhill, Wow, you really mean to build one! I have some doubts about the following items: - Battery charger/step-up for charging the battery and convert power to 5v Not sure what you intend to achieve with it. You can have a recharge port where you can charge your Li-Ion with a dedicated charger, but to use a DC-DC you need to be careful. I can help you if you provide me with a wiring diagram of the modifications you plan. - PAM8403 stereo amplifier because i want 2 speakers Never tried this, but it sounds certainly interesting. Keep us in the loop, if it works I can add it as an alternative way of wiring it up. Now to your questions: - I'd like to know if I can add a second OLED on the scope with this setup. You can use only one OLED: either the 128x32 as a status bar or a smaller one 64x44 for the scope. Not both. The Atmega328 does not have that much memory to support multiple displays. - I want to add a aux switch to change modes and a magnetic switch on the magazine for the reload sound, can I do both? This should be possible and I already had one blaster where I did just that. However lately I did not check that branch of the code. Please try out and if you face difficulties, let me know and we can make that somehow stale branch back on line. - Can i run 2 LED strips on the barrel? My model has a inner barrel and i wanted to glue one strip on each side. Can the arduino run both strips? Sure, this is how all lightsaber props work with neopixel. You simply connect the BAT+, the GND and the data line to both strips in parallel. Good luck!
  8. It sure depends on the kind of blaster how easy it is to fit the electronics. That said in most cases the difficulty is not to get the board or electronics itself to fit but to cram-fu in the wiring and the battery. But it is far from impossible. Especially standard blasters like an E11 offers sufficient room for even a homebrew. Of course if someone wants to have a professional solution which is easy to install, can order a DIYino Stardust/Proto board. Especially for professional installers I offer special deals when ordering in large quantities. Making it available on OSH park I do not consider, for the simple reason that my DIYino boards are known for their excellent, 0-defect quality (i.e. all boards I delivered over the years work perfectly), and I cannot guarantee the same if the production is someplace else... I hope you understand. You have some options for a carrier board though, for example the brewboard from Saber Republic, an excellent homebrew carrier made to replicate my ealier DIYino Prime board design: https://saberrepublic.bigcartel.com/brewboard and skyone's new arduino carrier board (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/page/18/#comments) has a very similar component list, at first glance I'm pretty sure FX-BlasterOS can run on his board as well, since it uses a DFPlayer too, and the arduino board he uses has the same controller as the nano.
  9. To take open-source blaster building to the next level, I decided together with the sound font artist who developed the sounds for MK-X to release them, free of charge and open to everyone who wants to build blasters. The sound font bundle contains 3 high quality, complete set of sounds optimized for the FX-BlasterOS platform. You simply need to populate your SD-card with the bundle and using the one-click installer upload the code to your Arduino-based blaster electronics. FX-BlasterOS Sound Font bundle Please note that a lot of effort and dedication were poured into the creation of these sound fonts. They are as of now the best quality sounds for blaster props, created by a sound font artist. If you like them, consider a donation as a way of acknowledging the great job the guy did on them (see Donate button on the protowerkstatt web site)! Once you have a working prop with FX-BlasterOS via one-click installer and the sound bundle, feedback to User Experience is more than welcome. Please also share pictures and videos of your working prop as a source of inspiration to others.
  10. Since the nozzle pixel is the last one in the chain, you only have to wire the Data In to the Data Out of the barrell stripe. Look at the wiring diagram again.
  11. The long waiting comes now to an end! Look here and make it work literally with one-click: https://www.protowerkstatt.com/imperial-armoury (Hint: look for the download and follow the working instructions)
  12. The DFPlayer has an in-build LM4871 audio amp, capable of driving a 4Ohm or 8Ohm speaker with up to 3W. I do not see how the PAM8403 would be of benefit over it. The LM4871 makes the DFPlayer crazily loud. No need for volume control, you can control the volume from the firmware from 0 to 31, which is again a feature of the DFPlayer.
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