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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/01/2018 in all areas
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Work is winding down and I’m finding less to do. Got the rear cover strips on and am now adding an inner cover strip to the front. I’ll add inner to the rear as well and on the shin. Don’t think the biceps and forearms need it quite as much. Also put a coat of primer on my e11. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk3 points
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Darrell (Ironmonk) Ohio Garrison (Oregon, OH) Armor, Helmet, Cloth Belt all by Authentic Props (AP) Neck Seal by Trooperbay Boots by Imperial Boots Blaster is a cheap plastic one I bought on Amazon and painted (This is just temporary until I get my "real" blaster) I am 5'9" tall and 150# ANH Stunt Thanks to the many folks who posted excellent build threads, diagrams, supply lists, hints, etc. It's really difficult to single anyone out. I've found this to be a very helpful community. I admit I was intimidated when I started because I'd never built anything like this before, but you all gave me confidence and were very helpful. A special thank you to wook1138 whose AP build I followed closely and TheSwede for his expertise. The plan is to apply for EIB and Centurion eventually. All helpful comments are welcome! I'm aware the TD is crooked. I need to add some velcro to the belt so I can cinch it up tighter. And one final shot for fun...3 points
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2 points
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The information was also included in Septembers newsletter and will be again in Octobers issue, if anyone bothers to read it2 points
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They are more like very thick mousepads than foam (at least mine are). They sell ‘em on Amazon for fairly cheap, think I paid 10/15 dollars for a set.2 points
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Hi, folks! Time tending to always be my limiting factor, my build thread took a back seat to just building. I apologize for not documenting the rest of the build, but it is "finished". You can see my pre approval photos here: Thank you to all of you who chimed in on questions and gave helpful advice in your own build threads. This was a tough project but well worth the time and effort I've put into it. I'm excited to be at this point and looking forward to moving towards EIB and Centurion eventually. I'm truly grateful to this community and for the confidence you gave me to pursue this dream. If you don't mind, go to the pre approval thread and let me know what you think. Thanks!2 points
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And here we go! Rough trimming is mostly done- a few curves I need to use the dremel on. Next I will fine sand the edges and then I can start assembling the armor! Finger armor has arrived (the yellow pile), and they need sanding and polishing. Gaskets are on order, threw in a neck seal as well (Geeky Pink's), cape, belt and soft belt boxes will be the next purchase. Close up of the boots and lifts: The CRL says no laces, but no laces are going to show, so I should be able to make it work. I found that because of the height the lifts added, my foot wouldn't fit comfortably in most non-lace boots. A pair of my work heels with my lifts for scale, roughly 4''. If I can wear those heels 4 - 5 times per week and walk comfortably, then I think I can do the same with these lifts. I'm going to build up the base a little so that there's not such a distinct drop in slope at the arch, which should also make it more comfortable. And finally, the helmet thus far: A little more fine sanding along the eyes and then I'm ready to fine sand the whole thing. There's a lot of little extra bits that I have to remove, most of which are in tricky places. We'll see how that goes. I'm also going to cut out new lens material. The helmet came with bubble, and I just can't see out of them except a tiny little spot in each eye. Not a great combo for someone on lifts who's already kinda clumsy. No stumbling Phasma around here! With luck, I'll have some time between a troop, decorating for Halloween, and Book Club this weekend to get some more work done!2 points
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Was approved a couple months ago but an accident took me off trooping since. Finally back in the game and hope to take the TK out for a spin soon1 point
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Apologies. I just came back from overseas. Will get to work on the issues over the next 2 weekends thanks for checking up. Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk1 point
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Not as far as I understand it. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk1 point
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Thank you everybody, for your thorough response(s)! @gmrhodes13 OK, time for me to make a second pass on references. This is the reason for no adhesives used yet; @IcyTrooper Yes, that's possible. I don't have a lot of info about the armor, but it's from one of the first instances in which measurements were permitted to be taken in the Archives. You may know more about that history than myself. Finally I grabbed the Anovos TK Shock helmet which, ironically, is ANH I think... Will do, thanks!1 point
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For a shim extension just remove the return edge and adhere it to the existing armor.1 point
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1 point
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Mineral spirits worked on my Testors and spray paint, too (spray paint was Rustoleum 2x), though the sooner you get to the paint, the better and easier it is. It also removed residue left after removing E6000.1 point
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Yeap, agreed with everyone else, easy pass for basic in my opinion!1 point
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I used these on my last build, and they worked out great! The nice thing is that they are held on with Velcro so can be easily removed for cleaning: ----------- As for keeping it on your head, I have found that once you put the pads in they will pretty much keep it in place, even when you tilt your head down. NOTE: On my first bucket, I put pads on the top of the inside, but found that it rode really high and I was constantly tilting it forward just to be able to see. After removing it I had no problems, and the side pads keep it in place just fine.1 point
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1 point
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You could try making a stencil for the ab buttons, you'd still have to paint carefully as you could get some bleeding. I found it easier to paint on the circles as best you can with a small brush, then tidy up with a couple of toothpicks, worked a charm! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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I personally use foam. I went for dirt cheap. That was best for me. I cut 3” x 3” and hot-glued them around my helmet. I spaced them such, so I could install electronics wedged in between like cylindrical USB batteries, circuit boards, etc. Consider wearing a cap or bandana to help absorb the sweat.1 point
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Looking great Darrell Basic is given - great work! I can see Centurion beeing well within your reach as well and just a few things to improve the overall look would be to try and reducing the size of the smaller ab plate (se ref pic) You can reduce the size of the buttons and it will still look proprtional. Did some drawing just to give you an idea. Like Arthur said I also recommend to get the bells closer to the chest and it looks like the bells could come closer to the biceps, perhaps shortening the strapping around the bicep will fix that, could also be a simple dressing issue. Only a few small things, you did great on the build fitting the armor to your body1 point
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I like to use foam, I have a thin clover leaf piece in the top and a larger piece each side before my ears, keeps the helmet on snug and doesn't move when you shake your head. The foam is attached via Velcro so I can take out and wash when needed, the sweat does tend to build up For painting I use a combination of a fine tip and a square tip depending on what area I'm doing. Template can be found here1 point
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Congrats on finishing Darrell! Your GML should zip right thru the evaluation. Easy L1 pass!1 point
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Cross fingers you receive approval but I don't think you'll need them, well done.1 point
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Nice work should be an easy pass, try tightening your belt a little, it should sit higher at the back, also you doo have some excess belt material which goes past the TD you may want to remove Good luck1 point
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Should have no problem for clearing basic approval. 2 things to watch out: Bring the shoulder bells closer to the chest if you can (by adjusting strappings) and watch out for the knee sniper plate poking into the thigh (some padding in the back of the thigh will solve that). You look sharp to shoot for EIB.1 point
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1 point
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These are similar to your kit. If your arms are thin you won't need all that extra material. Just tape them up and check fit before cutting. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk1 point
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I would say definitely good for basic even EIB. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk1 point
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I just used a regular brush and did a couple of thin coats. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk1 point
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1 point
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Next update - hopefully nothing as dramatic as figuring out how to clean up glue! Almost completed the belt. Minus holster installation, all single rivets, connection to Ab, and drop boxes have been installed and glued together. Sample pic: Additonally, I've started working on strapping system, including installing poppers on Ab, and the first bits of nylon to connect Ab to kidney. Otherwise, waiting for biceps to finish their 48hr dry time. Then on to gluing the next one!1 point
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I'm wearing the game version in top photo. As well as white drop boxes to counter grey one's in photo next to belt description. If that helps any. Great job all the way around tightening up the TKC CRL.1 point
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Personally I cut off the return edge from the kidney, then glue a piece of ABS behind, usually about 3 to 4 inches in width, I/1 is glued to the kidney plate, then glue a spacer shim to the other 1/2 of the plate attached to the kidney. I like to use JB weld to glue them as it does take a while to dry so you can move around and it is a lot stronger than E6000. Once dry you can remove any glue down the join line, mix up some ABS paste and fill the gap, once dry you can use several different grades of sandpaper to remove any excess then use a cutting compound polish to bring back the shin. Here's a couple of threads that should help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37319-how-to-anovos-kidney-plate-shims/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32266-side-shims-and-rivets/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30226-side-shims-on-abkidney-help/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29077-adding-the-kidney-shim-not-bad-but/ ABS paste how too: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/1 point
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Still need to raise the brow a tad, but... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Whaaaaat??? Maybe I have seen to many photos where hot glue was used for such cases, but I never expected that. Sorry Jesse. The same would have happened to me.1 point
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Arg!!!! That's so sad. Sorry to hear that.1 point
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Thanks everyone!! First troop last night went great, I started a log in the Field Training Exercises section to keep track of them there. I didn't have any issues with the kit until I was taking it off, the cod snap came off the split rivet. I thought this might happen as the snap was pretty cheap/thin (it was installed before I had Tandy snaps), so it's getting replaced with a new split rivet and Tandy snap. Easy fix as soon as I get a replacement rivet tomorrow from Cricket (thanks!!), this one weakened and failed after trying to straighten the posts back up for the new snap. Then it's off to another troop! I realized I had forgotten to run a couple strips of soft side Velcro on the back of the thermal detonator straps, so I had to polish out a few scratches today and then I took care of the straps. Also seen are my Nomex flight gloves that just arrived, so once I trim down and install the ABS hand guards I'll be using those when I can. The rubber gloves aren't terrible with liners, but the Nomex gloves are so much more comfortable. Especially in the humidity we have here.1 point
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Sure thing, have pics with various lighting conditions. Han Snap close up. Han Snap with different lighting.1 point