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Matt, I watched ANH on New Years Day and saw things I had never seen before after 40 years of watching it (100+ times)! After immersing oneself in 'Stormtrooper Everything' while building, you learn so much and see so much more than you imagined possible. p.s. Hi Greg.

Having now crossed the finish line, I owe thanks to everyone who's chipped in with their help and opinions, so many thanks to you all. And special thanks to Dan, Jesse, and of course Tino, really couldn't have done it without all your input Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Pew Pew! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

More pics! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

To all of my friends in stormtrooper land; Have a safe and happy MLK Day! I think MLK would be proud of us:)

Good shout Dan...been looking for Tino’s build thread! Just spent the last hour or so reading through it...I have no words! I’m totally dumbfounded at the level of detail and quality of work throughout...totally inspirational and educational...[emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I decided to work out a complete, comprehensive list for those about to start an OT TK armor build (ANH Stunt, Hero, etc,) to help get everything in place for when "Big Brown Box" day arrives! This list does not include soft parts, (neck seal, boots, etc.) but focuses on the hardware and supplies for building the armor itself. However, a list of soft parts can be found HERE I believe I have covered most items, but would appreciate additional suggestions/corrections to add, and will keep it updated as such. Yes, it looks a bit daunting, but some of the items you will already have, and the rest can be purchased at major home improvement stores, online, or borrowed from a TK friend! Plus, it gives you something to do while you "hurry up and wait" for your kit! This list is includes items used for the EIB and Centurion programs, (marked with double red asterisks)**. These items are not required for initial TK approval, but I encourage everyone to consider them as an option. Hope this helps, and best of luck on your build! PLEASE NOTE: Some kits come with all the hardware you will need to build to Centurion level, i.e. split rivets, ear screws, TD screws, etc., however, not all armorers supply the correct ones. If you are (hopefully) planning on aiming for level 3, please check with your armorer to see if they provide these. You can also reference the photos below to see if they are accurate. These supplies are based on using the snap method for connecting the armor. Example photos are shown at the bottom for many of the items, but not all. (Everyone knows what a hammer looks like). Items with photos have a notation. 1. E-6000 glue- Great for almost everything, and removable if necessary. Highly recommended. (Pick up some wooden tongue depressors as well, makes spreading it easier)! (Photo 1) (Please see updated information on E-6000 below, after #50 before purchasing). 2. Binder or notebook- To keep notes on your research. 3. Dremel or rotary tool- A "must have". (Photo 2). Be sure to get the sanding drum attachment and extra sanding drums (Photo 3). I suggest the 180 grit type. 4. Small plastic containers- Keeps everything organized. 5. Lexan scissors- Curved and straight, for cutting ABS. (Photo 4) 6. Small spring clamps- For holding things in place while gluing. You can't have too many! (Photo 5) 7. Line 24 snaps- For strapping. You will need at least 30, and do NOT "cheap-out" on these, but purchase quality ones. (Steer clear of Wal-Mart snaps). Tandy is recommended. Tutorial located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44617-snap-setting-101/ (Photo 6) 8. Snap setting tools- There are 2 types to choose from- One is a two piece set (requires a hammer) (Photo 7) and the other is the pliers style (Photo 8) 9. Hammer- For setting snaps if you use the 2 piece style of snap setter. 10. Pliers/vise grips- 11. Screwdriver- Slotted head. 12. Rivets-** 5/16 (8mm). (Photo 9) Round head bifurcated/split rivets with washers. You will need 9. (3 for the kidney, 3 for the ab, one for the cod piece, 2 for the thigh ammo pack). You will also need 3 speed (Chicago") rivets to attach your ABS belt to your canvas one. These are attached by hand and not to be confused with the aluminum ones listed below (#19). Some like to use the screen accurate single cap rivets (Photo 10) to attach the ammo thigh pack but these are not a requirement. 13. Elastic- 1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.) 2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps. 14. Nylon strapping- 1 inch wide black, at least 6 to 8 ft. long. 2 inch wide black (48 inches) for high tension areas if you are using the double snap method. (NP) 15. Exacto knife/extra blades- For cutting, trimming, cutting nylon strapping. (Photo 11) 16. Heavy duty razor knife/extra blades- For cutting cover strips and scoring around pieces that will be removed. (Photo 12) 17. Heavy duty scissors/tin snips- For (carefully) cutting large sections of ABS. (Photo 13) 18. Metal ruler or straight edge- (At least 18 inches long). For use as a cutting guide, especially cover strips. 19. Hand Rivet gun/aluminum open end blind rivets- For putting your helmet together. Available for about $10-$12.00, EASY to use! (Photo 14) 20. Metric Ruler- 21. 2 x 2 or larger piece of carpet- Protects work surface, keeps dust down, and stops small parts from rolling away. 22. Rags/paper towels- And plenty of them. 23. Blue painter's tape- 1 inch and 2 inch widths. For keeping glued parts in place and dry-fitting your armor. 24. China marker/pencil- For marking cut lines. 25. Sandpaper- I highly recommend Sandblaster Pro Flexible silicone sanding sheets from 3M, 220 grit. You will never use anything else, I promise. They last forever! 26. Sanding block- The sponge type, 120 grit. 27. Band Aids- You will need these. Might as well keep them handy. 28. Rare earth magnets- (10 minimum) SUPER strong! I use the 20 mm x 3 mm round ones. Cover them in blue tape to prevent scratching your armor. You cannot have too many!!! Tutorial located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44619-magnets-101/ (Photo 15) 29. Butane Lighter- For sealing the ends of nylon strapping. (see # 44 below for a better option) 30. Large "half-round" file- For smoothing out edges before sanding. I used this a LOT, especially in the curved areas. (Photo 16) 31. Small "Needle file" set- Very inexpensive, comes in 6 different shapes, and is perfect for the teeth and eye openings on your helmet. (Photo 17) 32. Foam padding- 1 inch thick. Great for helmet and armor padding. Available at craft or fabric stores. 33. Velcro- 2 inch wide black (various uses) and 1 inch wide white, for calf closures (about 36 inches). Go for the "Industrial Strength" kind. 34. PAINT: Satin Black: Humbrol # 85 or Testors # 1747 for vocoder, trap/ tear drop/ear bar outlines/stripe(s), ROTJ and ESB frown, TD screw heads. Gray: Humbrol # 5 or Testors # 1138 for trap/tear drop/ear bar background, ANH frown and ab-buttons. French Blue: Humbrol # 14 or Testors # 2715 ForTube stripes/ab buttons. Mediterranean Blue Humbrol (Tube stripes alternative color) Testors: No exact match Gloss white for all rivet heads (excluding cod rivet). Mineral spirits for brush cleaning 35. Goo Gone- Citrus based solvent that will remove latex and enamel paint and NOT harm your armor. (Photo 18). 36. Small paint brushes- Assorted sizes. Try to buy quality ones.. Cheap brushes =cheap looking results. I suggest picking up a "filbert" (Photo 19) style brush (photo 5) as well, as it's rounded tip works great for painting the ab plate buttons and vocoder. Another GREAT way to get clean, crisp lines on the ab buttons is to use Testors Micro-Sponge brushes (Photo 20). 37. Wire or fiberglass mesh- (Window screen). For inside the "frown" of your helmet. A piece 3 x 8 inches will work fine, and you can trim it as needed. 38. Safety Glasses- It never hurts to be too careful, especially when using a Dremel type tool. For your Thermal Detonator, (TD) clips: (Note: There are some GREAT pre-made TD clips you can buy on this site, and some kits include them, but you can use the following 5 items to make your own. 39. Aluminum strip- 1 inch wide 40. Screws- Size #6 pan-head slotted screws **, 1/2 inch long, You will need 4. (Photo 21). NOTE: The CRLs have been updated and round head screws are permitted, but they must be the slotted (not philips) style. 41. Hacksaw- For cutting the aluminum strip. 42. Drill- Electric or battery operated, with various size bits. 43. Vise grip OPTIONAL ITEMS: 44. Heat sealing iron- For making return edges. Not normally needed, but there are some great tutorials on this here on FISD. Try it on a scrap first, though! 45. Soldering Iron- For making holes in nylon strapping and sealing the ends. Pretty inexpensive, and worth the cost! (Photo 22) 46. Plasti-Dip- A black rubberized coating you can spray inside your helmet, (also available in a brush-on). Or, you can use spray paint. Just remember to sand and prime first! 47. Heat gun- Not normally needed. For shaping ABS. Use this CAREFULLY, and practice on scraps first until you get the hang of it. These things can reach 1500 degrees and melt your armor. 48. CA (super) glue- Not recommended for first time builders, as it is PERMANENT, and you can't fix mistakes. Also, if it drips on your armor it is nearly impossible to remove. It can also become brittle over time, causing connections to fail. 49. Acetone- For use ONLY in making ABS paste for filling small gaps, (see tutorials). Do NOT put this directly on your armor, as it will melt it. 50. SUGRU- This is an easy way to attach the lenses in your helmet. Tutorial located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44593-how-to-attach-lenses-using-sugru/ 51. Respirator- An informative post was made by Clint, (cm325i) concerning the effects of E-6000 glue on some individuals. Definitely worth a read: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33347-e6000-warnings-read-them-and-wear-a-respirator/ 52. Cut resistant gloves- Especially helpful if you are prone to cutting yourself. Available online for about $12.00 (Photo 23) E-6000 update: Please note that there are certain online retailers (including those in Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000 or "knock-offs" like these: The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube. They do not sell to distributors in Asia, so if you try to save a few bucks by ordering from a seller there it is not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it. The fake stuff is garbage and will not hold up. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. IMPORTANT UPDATE! To make life easier, Ray (Dieltski) made this into an awesome Google spreadsheet, which you can download to keep track and add notes! Just click here. Thanks, Ray! .

We can no longer continue hosting FISD on our current server and will be moving. Most likely, the FISD server will be run by the Legion web team and the FISD team will just be responsible for keeping the software up to date. We give up a little bit in terms of independence, but we gain much in terms of performance and support. I'm finalizing the details with our current server admins Eric (Darth Aloha) and Mathias (Locitus) this month. One other change is that it will mean instead of collecting funds for ourselves, the call for monetary support will go to the Legion. When FISD first started Greg (V'Pier) was our server admin, then I took over those duties for a bit, then it got to be too much. As we always need at least two server admins (a primary and a backup), I truly think long term having the Legion's web team manage the servers centrally could be the best long term action. In any event, there will be some downtime when we move servers, which we have to do one way or another. Stay tuned! For 2018, we still need to pay our last bill, and our share of the bill (which runs Aug 2017-Aug 2018) is $816.53. Please paypal to [email protected] (me) and I'll put a "stop" when we've reached that amount. For your kind contribution you will receive a supporters badge. Thanks everyone!

David McIntyre TK-38987 DamnItDavid Garrison Corellia 501st profile https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=23882&costumeID=124 EIB thread Armor & helmet WTF Blaster hfx b grade Additional Info Height 5'10" Weight 170 Boots TK boots Canvas belt-self Hand plates-justjoseph Electronics Wireless mic and speaker-straight from china Fans-self Neckseal-self Holster-darman (second hand) Helmet Front Back Left Right Rear tube stripe in line and tube stripes thickened to match opposite side as suggested in EIB thread Hovi tip detail S trim Lens color Front Back Back plate on top of kidney plate as suggested in EIB thread Left Left arm up Right Right arm up Action pose Bucket off Shoulder detail Left side detail Right side detail Left kidney notch Right kidney notch Ab detail Internal strapping Cod/butt connection Cod/butt detail Sniper knee left Sniper knee right Thigh ammo pack left Thigh ammo pack right Thigh internal rivet view Belt front Drop boxes moved up and towards edge of belt as per EIB thread for centurian status Belt rear view Drop box detail left Drop box detail right Ab button detail Return edge removed completely on small 4 button plate as suggested in EIB thread TD top Td bottom TD was at the 7 1/2" mark. Shortened to 7 1/4" as suggested in EIB thread. Blaster Scope repainted to match blaster (less weathering) as suggested in EIB thread Blaster left D ring Gloves Forearm return edge Neck seal Thank you for considering my application for centurian. Dave

Just updating my list: TK - ANH Stunt L3 TK - ANH Hero L3 TK - ESB L3 TK - Heavy Weapons Trooper TK - First Order L3 ID - Officer ANH L3, Lt Tanbris L2, Lt Jir L2, Lt Childsen L2, 2nd Lt L2, Lt Com Praji L2, Lt Treidum L2 ID - Warrant ANH L2, ROTJ L3, Maj Hewex L2, Joff L2, Col Dyer L2 DZ - Jawa ANH DZ - Tusken ANH TB - Biker Scout Lancer L2 IC - Crewman ANH L3, ESB L3, ROTJ L3 IC - Mechanical Crew L3 TI - Reserve Pilot IG - Gunner TR - Guard ROTJ IN - Navy Trooper ANH L3, ESB L3, ROTJ L3 IN - Navy Dress Uniform ESB L2, ROTJ L2, Sgt Bean L2 ID - Line Officer - Olive ANH Chief Bast L2, Cmdr Cass L2, Capt Khurgee L2, Adm Motti L2, Gen Tagge L2 ESB Adm Ozzel L2, Capt Needa L2, Gen Veers L2, Lt Schekil L2, Lt Suba L2, ROTJ Admiral Piett L2, Commander Igar L2 CT - Clone Trooper (Ret) ID - Grand Moff Tarkin L2 TK - TLJ-E L3 TK - TLJ Working on some accessories and higher level approvals, they are a little cheaper

Yes! 50% of the way there - way to go guys

Hell yeah! Cheers buddy! Can't wait for the armour now Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Superb! Nice paint job and weathering [emoji106] congratulations on getting to the finish line! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pew pew indeed. :-) Lovely job, mate. Loving the folding stock. You must be chuffed. :-) Now, off to the shed to get your armour. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mega update: it's done! The last few days have easily been the most exciting. Having all the bits painted, it's been a matter of assembling the bits systematically, getting things in the right spot (which I hope I've done lol), and waiting days and days for glue to dry haha. I've used the Gorilla Epoxy for the final assembling, recommended a 24hour dry time, a bit like the e6000. Probably could leave it less, but never can be too safe Assembling went pretty smoothly really, though there were a couple of issues. Firstly, for the end cap clip, the glue had squished out from under it a little which was then shiny when dry. A quick little spray with the Clear Matt worked like a charm covering that. Next was the inner tube. Where the far end of the scope rail bends into the hole, it was blocking the inner tube from going the whole way in. I had tested this before, so I'm not sure how it happened haha. Solved this by cutting a grove out of the inner tube so it misses that part of the scope rail that pokes into the barrel, obviously being careful to only cut a section that wouldn't be visible when fully assembled. This worked! Haha, not sure if it was the best solution but got the job done Lastly, and again, something I checked before (not very well apparently) was the clearance of the stock as it folds back. It seems to scrape along the selector switch a little, so care is needed when folding the stock out. You can kind of just pull the stock in that direction to clear the switch, not the best thing really, but I can't bring myself to start shaving a bit off the switch having just finished everything! Lol Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I doubt my opinion will change, no matter how many times I watch it.

FYI, we've collected about $250 as of now towards our goal. Almost 33% of the way there.

Kitted up for a troop today and took the picture for you [emoji3]

Great work, good luck with approval

As Glen mentioned, the corners can be rounded a bit, but don't go overboard. A little fine grit sandpaper will round them off enough to keep sharp ones (especially on the wrists/biceps back of the thighs) from snagging your undersuit. Other places are up to you. Below is an example on a screen used thigh showing "rounded" corners.

My bad I should have been clearer. But yes I did mean the corners. Thank you!

Contribution sent Transaction ID 42Y98048XU0155005

Edges as in corners? if so then yes they can, it is advised to round the point of the corners off so they don't catch on your undersuit, or cause armor bites

Thanks for the kind words, Wayne. Always happy to help. The link is in my signature but instead of that, I would suggest to click on the Lucky#Eleven. Okay, that is not a DoopyDoo's kit, but the build itself is far more accurate.

That's a fantastic idea. I think I even have an old tshirt that would be the right colour.....

That's actually the way it came. I rounded the top so that it fits under the back plate better. I suppose I could have rounded the bottom to be more accurate as well but at the moment I'm not worried about it.

Folding stock: Cover the screw with thumb tack. Hengstler: I used magnets to make the internal accessible. I will put electronic inside it later. Charging bolt handle: I use magnet and tie nylon string to the handle. Assembly picture before taking apart for painting:

Yeah that's where I'm at for now rough trim and sizing. I did trim the wrist return upon initial rough trim though. I also trim the outer elbow return edge down a little more, it was close to 7mm in some spots. Watched panda props videos again and noticed he says 3mm is what he does and I may go that route, but not sure yet. I'm sort of reluctant to start sanding yet, mostly because if I sand and then realize I need to trim more I don't want to have to sand a second time.

I used fabric that hopefully looks enough like the screen used helmets. That way they still let air in.

Thanks haha yeah I´m starting to consider it, at first when TFA came I was very disappointed with how they looked, mostly the helmet but....having seen it up close on troops changed my mind

I know right, I do like to be unique but then sometimes you get "why does that one look different" or "weren't you a good guy"

And I also started to fiddle with displaying the armor and....it needs some more padding and the hands are just temporary but overall I´m happy with how it looks I´m Luke Skywalker and I`m here to rescue you But with a quick change of helmets you have TK 421 ready to serve the Empire

Today it was time to give this Kit the "ultimate" Hero-look - namely adding the comlink and grappling hook/box.

More Hengstler build getting closer still need and few more tiny screws

Your best bet for cutting cover strips is to have the following: 2 clamps a metal straight edge at least as long as the longest cover strip you are cutting a SHARP razor knife Once you are sure you have a straight edge on one side, measure the width you need... i.e. 15 mm, 20mm, etc. Clamp the straight edge firmly in place on top of the ABS using a hard surface (like a table). CAREFULLY and SLOWLY run the knife along the cut line, pressing straight down. Repeat this step several times in a row, making the cut a little deeper each time. After you have cut about half way through the thickness of the ABS, you should be able to bend and snap it off along the cut line. Note: Be sure to do this on an old table or workbench, as it will get scratched.

The counter is missing the screws Looks better already.

Drilled out the fake screws and created pilot holes Added the screws from Tino's kit, ripped out the front part of the monical Installed

No they wont work. BootsFor 501st approval: Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed Not sure where to find those in that size. Try to get in touch with imperial boots and see if they can do a custom size.

Great work on this blaster Tom, it has given me the urge to start back on mine, well tomorrow maybe. One question, where did you get the folding stock from? keep up the good work I am watching how you get on to give me some tips.

I'm in process of building out a series of audio files for my TK build that will play various radio chatter over my helmet comm (quietly of course as not to be annoying or distracting), and had been searching for isolated audio files of the in and out clicks on the stormtrooper comms. Well, after a disappointing search, I just made my own. Feel free to download and use at will. There are two mp3 files, one is the com in, and the other the com out. Also for what it's worth, the Shidu SD-S511 personal voice amplifier works great for reproducing that stormtrooper voice audio. Mount the speaker behind your chest plate, put the headset on under your helmet, and put a USB stick in the Shidu and it'll cycle through whatever mp3 files you have in there. I put individual chatter things in there with 10 seconds of silence or so to help give a little breathing room between chatter samples. stormtrooper com - click in.mp3 stormtrooper com - click out.mp3

Whatever that is it doesn't appear to be the tkarmour I think I see overlap construction on thighs which is not the tkarmour Why was that pic posted? It seems to be confusing the discussion about tkarmour.

Update #21 - Back on track (T-track tutorial) Every single track in a kit is important. If just one of them gets messed up and a replacement is required, it causes a delay plus additional costs. To avoid this, there should be enough time when starting this work. Tools prepared: heat gun, gloves, side cutter, nose pliers and possibly a flat screwdriver and sandpaper or a file (not all is mandatory, just showing what options there are). It is really important to maintain a safe distance between track and heat gun during the whole process, as the arms might become tired after a while. The heat takes some time to get into the plastic part. Depending on the tool‘s power (1000 to 2000 W), this roughly takes about 1 minute - a bit less to correct the „banana bends“ and a bit more for a full bend. Too much heat or a close distance will both result in the „lizard skin effect“ (next pictures). And this cannot be made undone! Therefore it is useful to add the heat to the flat bottom of the track, not to the top. When gravity clearly starts to bend the part, a few more seconds will guarantee it is warm enough. Then it should immediately get bent. When it cools down, the material tries to get back in the original shape. Therefore it is important to keep the part in position for at least half a minute. If the heat gun burned the surface, the track might still be long enough for a different row of venting holes after cutting off the damage. Otherwise a replacement track is required. If everything went fine (or in cases of very little lizard skin) the heated end can be inserted into a receiver hole. All holes are the same (except the bigger one behind the front sight) and it does not matter, which one is used to bend the track. I personally prefer the row with the magazine well, because here the track can be worked in full length without anything in the way. Note: This is the only row with 10 holes to cover. All other rows have only 9 holes. If a track got messed up here, it might still work for another position. To permanently install a T-track, the correct length needs to be found. 10 mm to the front end of the farthest hole will save enough material for a nice bend. In case the tracks are being installed prior to the scope rail, it is useful to temporarily cover the receiver hole for the rail - just to avoid accidentally installing the top track there Only 6 of the 8 rows need to get covered. Tracks are not required on the row with the bayonet lug and the bottom row (because of the folding stock). If one or more tracks are rattling on the receiver tube, this can easily get fixed by semi-heating both ends. The material will then try to get back to the original (straight) shape. As a result, the tracks will hold themselves locked in the receiver holes. It is recommended to not paint T-tracks (if not inevitable). The different color and surface will make them look more believable. Weathering with colored highlights is questionable, as the prop makers also used black plastic tracks for the Sterlings in the movies. Scratches or dust are no problem. That's it for today. Thanks for any comments, questions and critics