imperialbrewer

I get asked questions by newer people in our garrison about building a TK for the first time and look for tips or helpful advice. Well it felt like I was repeating myself a lot so I threw together a blog post to cover a number of topics that I wish I had known more about going into the build for the first time. Some of the topics include commentary on the tools/supplies you'll need measuring trimming gluing armor strapping (a more hybrid approach with both snaps and velcro) shimming and working with ABS paste and painting And as an added bonus, none of the images are hosted on PhotoBucket https://michaeltangen.wordpress.com/2018/10/16/tips-to-make-that-first-stormtrooper-tk-armor-build-a-little-less-intimidating/

So here’s where I’m at — I have a similar issue like before where the darkness of the seam seems to come through a bit. If you’ve had this issue, what have you done to fix or conceal the seam? Or is this OK and good enough to fulfill Centrion requirements as far as the shim is concerned? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks everyone. Will be tough to fix that cover strip — used zap a gap so removing it won’t be fun. But thanks for the encouragement! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had just finished up my kidney shimming and was test-fitting my armor when the ABS pasted seam split: Here’s how the supporting shim was constructed: Inside: Outside: And then ABS pasted: ...followed by the whole sanding, polishing routine and repeated until the surface was flush and clean. Any suggestions? Tips? Should I have heated and bend/curve the piece that I shimmed on? Other things I should have done? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now that I’ve had a few troops under my belt with basic clearance, I am ready to finish tackling journey towards centurion builder. This evening I’ve started the process of shimming up my kidney armor. So far so good. In the process of measuring out my shimming, I did discover a strapping issue that has had my armor out of a little bit of misalignment. I think after I get my armor shimmed up I’ll be able to get a better sense of where I need to fix the strapping. But for now I’m not quite sure. Tomorrow I will get started on filling the seam with a touch of ABS paste, blending it in, and then sanding/buffing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you ever figure this out? I’m at this point of figuring out alignment and need more information on this and related issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy BBB day!! Good luck on the build, take it slow, measure a few times before you trim, and cut slowly. [emoji3] good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The one thing I’d recommend is to shoot for more of a ketchup consistency — not so watery that it runs, but also not so thick that it doesn’t dry up on you right away. I’ve also found it useful to have a small jar of acetone on hand to help blend the paste with the ABS. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thermal detonator screws are flathead, black and rounded: https://photos.app.goo.gl/HZvFmuAVlO5IUuMp2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For starters, no return edge on the front of the forearms — aside from it being required for Expert level, it’s a huge comfort thing. The last thing you need is the armor digging in your wrists. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome and glad to see another new builder out there! Take your time and don't rush into anything and cut slowly and with intent. As far as your back pieces, you want minimal gap between pieces — so while you're getting that all fit out, make sure that your strapping in the back is set so that you have minimal gaps and then the shoulder strapping will be dictated by how your front and back are strapped together.

First time builder here, but I've had to do major shimming on my thighs and have become intimately acquainted with the art of ABS pasting. I'd start by using pure acetone brushed on to the interior of the cracks and join the two cracked ends together. Hold those pieces together for a few minutes until they're reasonably set. After that point you have a few options I'd reckon. Personally, I'd start off by slathering on ABS paste on the underneath side until the cracks have been sufficiently reinforced. If necessary, you could also superglue small 1mm ABS strips to help stabilize the ends. On the external side is where you'll want to be a bit more delicate on your approach. After you feel the underside has been sufficiently reinforced and repaired, from this point on it's fixing any cosmetic issues. I use more liquidy ABS paste — about the consistent of runny ketchup or mustard, but not so runny that it drips. Lightly fill the cracks and use pure acetone to blend in the paste with the surrounding ABS. Use a paintbrush to carefully blend it in, being careful not to let any bristles get caught in the paste. After you've sufficiently blended it, let it dry and then start gently going over it with sandpaper to blend and smooth it out — from grits 220 all the way up to 3000. I personally use the following: - for rough sanding to smooth things out: 100 to 220 to 400. - once imperfections are smoothed out, repeating cycles of 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 (dry and wet), 3000 (dry and wet) — inspect, and if necessary lightly glaze on more ABS paste until the crack can't be seen anymore, and then repeat the sanding process. I did this with my thermal detonator — had a crack on it and followed that process for repairing it (the crack used to be on the right side near the lower screw — now it's barely visible that there was any crack at all, just a slight raised shadow):

As pictured it was a metallic charcoal black/gray matte finish, but I felt it was a bit too shiny so I sanded back a bit and put down a coat of flat black enamel spray paint. I was going to airbrush it with acrylic instead and put clear coat over it, but the air valve wasn’t working on my brush. Fortunately we had a really nice day (40°F) and was able to paint outdoors. Revised photos: THANK YOU everyone for your advice, shared reference photos, and the tips you’ve shared! I’m sure somewhere along the line I’ll build another E11 (hero level) and pass this onto my son. But for now it’ll be great to have this to troop with! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Well I am about 99% done save for some paint touchups that I want to go back and do on the blaster. I finished the counter and the scope and I’m relatively satisfied with how they came out. I’m sure I could’ve done better if I had the time and patience to do so, but it’s good enough for general trooping. I may go back sometime and do another E11 build but with more attention to detail and more mods including some electronics and LED lighting. But quite frankly, I just wanted a prop to use for trooping and to help me get through to Centurion clearance. The paint job was very difficult though, because it’s about 20°F in the garage and I basically have to spray paint the gun with the garage door wide open to prevent too many fumes from seeping into the house. And as a result of the arctic temperatures, the paint job doesn’t come out as nicely as I would like. So I will probably rough things up a little bit with a Scotchbrite pad and go back and do some touch up painting with my airbrush. But for a general use prop, I am relatively happy with how it came out. It was a good learning experience for me! .... It seems Tapatalk is not letting me upload photos. I will upload some tomorrow when I have a chance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk