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Imperial Propaganda Department[IPM]
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Everything posted by revlimiter

  1. Someone more knowledgeable about the exact measurement than me should weigh in ( @T-Jay or @justjoseph63 ?) But I believe this monocular has the correct size lenses for your scope. https://www.amazon.com/Telescope-Adjustable-High-Power-High-Definition-Travelling/dp/B09JWBP8X5 It looks just like the one I used in mine, but I managed to not get the measurement off the side before I cut it apart. If it is the right one, it's gonna look much much nicer than anything a printer could produce.
  2. I've never run one down, so I'm not sure. After 4 hours of continuous use one was still going strong. I keep a couple spares in my bucket bag but haven't needed one yet. I had to look it up. Yours is 180 grams. The lipstick ones are less than half that at 80.
  3. If I may humbly suggest, get yourself a huge roll of velcro. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006RSP1 I got the 15ft x 2in roll. It made my helmet build so much more enjoyable. I never worried about having enough or running out. I redid the velcro inside my bucket at least 3 times and re-wrapped SHAs and iCOMMs a couple times. I think I have about 7 feet left after using it like crazy and wasting it whenever I needed or wanted to. Most of my bucket is lined with the hook/rough side. The helmet padding can then be applied anywhere since it sticks nicely to the hook veclro. I have no padding at the very top of my bucket and instead just use the loop/fuzzy side velcro up there. It sounds counterintuitive but it's actually much more comfy than having the big round helmet pad up there.
  4. That thing is TEN THOUSAND mAh, not 1000. So it's pretty big and would likely power helmet fans for days. Seriously. Gonna be rather heavy too. I have a lipstick power bank in my bucket. Anker Powercore Mini 3500. It's very light (80 grams), tiny (95x23x23mm) and fits easily behind the vocoder. The one annoying thing is the power button. You have to turn the Anker on and then you can turn your fans on. I've got some knockoff lipstick power banks that don't require the extra button push, but are getting a bit old and not lasting quite as long as they could. The Powercore mini was possibly discontinued and is getting a bit hard to find. They're still on ebay for about $15USD each. Also, amazing job on those thigh garters!! Looks extremely secure and comfy too.
  5. Looking good Tom!!! Welcome to the Empire. The one thing that stuck out to me was the Thermal Detonator. Your O is pointing towards noon, or maybe even a little past. The O should be more visible. The TD can also be a bit more centered on your belt. (images borrowed from @gmrhodes13 who shared the same advice with me in my own build thread. ) I literally unrolled mine a little bit to get the O at the correct rotation. Very easy to do.
  6. Thank you all! I'm feeling the love. But huge thanks to @T-Jay and @justjoseph63 . This blaster would be nothing like how it turned out without the two of you. @Scimitar is sending me his Quest Design E-11 for metal folding stock fitment. And I'll need a place to post pix. Might as well put them in here.
  7. If you really want some sign vinyl to make templates with, Oracal 651 is the best in my opinion. It's thicker than the 751&951 (easier to cut and lay), less expensive than those other 2, and conforms extremely well to a surface. It leaves little to no residue behind. It's a world better than hobby vinyl you might find at a local craft store. You can likely get a tiny roll of 651 on Amazon for a few dollars, especially if you don't care what color you're using. You could also try a sign shop nearby and ask if they have some extra scraps around. Source: I own a print shop and have killed miles of vinyl.
  8. Now that I'm in a browser and see you're in El Paso... Check out Dicks Sporting Goods for compression tops and pants. The DSG house brand is what I use and it's fantastic. I especially like the thigh pocket that hides right under the armor and holds my phone securely. Under Armor is also great and widely used.
  9. While I *did* check it for level last week, I discovered today that the counter has a bit of adjustability in how it's mounted. It can angle a few degrees with a little force. And now it's straight again. Thanks for the keen eye! I might post round 2 here!
  10. Thanks!! It's the photo. I obsessed over the counter level. It's aligned exactly flat relative to the top barrel surface.
  11. I can say nothing but great things about Quest Design Canada for an E-11. It's extremely pretty out of the box and is easy to modify for better accuracy if you're into that. My neck seal came from Darmans on etsy and is comfy. As Glenn said, imperial boots are great. Sorry for lack of links as I'm on mobile at the moment.
  12. I FINISHED MY BLASTER!!!!!!!!!!! Time for a self-indulgent photo set with a decent camera. Overview: Front: Rear: Power Cylinders: Grip / T-Tracks: (painted semi-gloss) Folding Stock: What a fun project! Man, I never knew there was so much to learn about the E-11. Now to troop around with it. Huge thanks to everyone who helped and followed along.
  13. Thanks Joseph! Matte finish clear is secured.
  14. Research is getting me nowhere with this, so I'm asking my build thread - What clearcoat should I use on my blaster? I want to lock the weathering in and not mark up my pretty white armor with little black streaks. I assume there's a really good one out there that I just can't find.
  15. That pic! hahaha! I feel seen. Last weekend's hacking was some tiny details. This is my Before pic. It's not too bad I guess. There's decent detail. It's serviceable. But it could be better. Accurate screw/nut vs the huge thing that came with the mold. Much better! This was super easy, so I decided to start in on the three capacitors. I'll admit, they look rather wonky in this shot. They seemed a bit better IRL. They're barely visible anyway though. And just like that they're installed! This took an incredible amount of grinding to fit. The "floor" beneath these capacitors needed to be mostly flattened to get them all fitting underneath the center support/divider thing. But they fit! Rear insulators painted black, front insulators painted brown. I built the front support piece and ran wires through, around, and over. Some tiny resistors made their way underneath each capacitor. You can also just barely see the front wing. And wired up. It really looked like a mess until the spiffy red wires made their appearance. I no longer hate this and am pretty dang proud of the result. They're gonna need some careful weathering to really bring them out. And then... Reposting this to show that sad front sight. Look at that tiny thing. It's a bit better already. Please be forgiving when looking at this. I molded and sculpted this in place without removing the guard frame. It's not quite correct. The dimensions are a bit too large overall, but it's decent, about the right shape, and much much better than the nothing that was there before. The little block is made out of POR15 epoxy clay. It's easy to work and something I've used several times before. It smooths when wet and cures in about an hour. I sculpted the blocks with long thin screwdrivers. I cut down a threaded rod as per Tino's excellent tutorial. Drilled in place. I used green stuff to get the two metal pieces protruding to where I wanted them. And painted! Everything is protected by the guard. I also sanded the front of the guard flat to remove knurling where it shouldn't be. SO MUCH BETTER! Not perfect, but better than what was there. And for being sculpted in place I'm quite happy with the result. I'm feeling good about the blaster now. It's about time for paint and weathering.
  16. Dank Farrik, this is gorgeous. Good luck!!! Though I don't think you'll need it.
  17. Okay, there's no way I'm living with the tiny sight. Thank you Tino and Joseph!!! I think I can certainly make something that's an improvement on what is there now.
  18. Just read your whole build thread. Congratulations on basic trooper!!! I think you can get EIB easily.
  19. I got brave. And just like that the stock stock is off. OEM stock? Quest stock? The included one. It's outta there. The razor saw made quick work of it. The stock was glued in place in the two spots in the back and these two spots in the front. There's even hole details underneath. Here's the two stocks together. The Quest is on top and seems to be rubber. It's quite flexible. It's also about 10% the weight of the real one. Holes drilled and some chips patched with glazing putty. The resin really enjoyed chipping under here. I also only drilled these holes at 3/8" instead of the full with the idea of keeping a bit more meat at the bottom of the barrel to support the metal stock. To grind out what I needed to grind, the nose needed to be cut free. Inside I was amazed to discover some PVC! The Quest blaster has a tube of PVC running the full length for strengthening. Look at that wall thickness. Then I drilled out the pivot. I tried to leave as much meat here as possible also. I opened the hole up a bit more than the metal pins required as I didn't want to pressure fit anything and weaken the surrounding resin. Gluing in place would be just fine. Some cut down clevis pins in 5/16" to fit the stock. I considered doing the same tube mount that the real Sterlings used, but couldn't find a full width 5/16" tube. If these pins don't hold I'll figure out a new mounting method. There's a lot of work cut out for me here. Pun sorta intended. The clip on the metal stock has a wide base... which means... Yeah. That's a big wedge needed to be cut out. I cut little by little test fitting and cutting. Took most of an hour. But... BAM!! It latches on perfectly. I added a small moon of aluminum for the clip to grab onto and to spread the force out. I then epoxied the aluminum reinforcement in place and let cure 24 hours. I also applied some green stuff to the nose and did a knurl... which I later learned doesn't extend down that far. And that's okay, I can sand it back to the correct level. Note that tiny little sight. I'm trying to decide if I need to make a better one or if I can just overlook that itty bitty thing. After getting the stock in place, I had to put things back together to see how it felt. IT FEELS GOOD. The folding stock really works, folds, and extends. And it actually locks in place on the end.
  20. Looking good!! Should be an easy approval.
  21. While that tip would have been probably been nice before the dremeling, I've apparently never had a set of spade bits. There's a couple in my drill drawer but not enough, so I've now got a nice set on the way from amazon for the next project that needs them. Thanks Tino!! It's always nice to expand the tool collection. Today's update - the Hengstler counter. I originally ordered the hollow/empty counter from Tino to keep my options on this build open. I thought it might be good for electronics. I also wanted to print my own numbers as I did on my Hellhounds build. And then I was installing a set of early Miata gauges in a cluster for photos and spotted the odometer size. Look at those numbers... those 6 digits. Perfect? MAYBE!!! I make mostly Miata parts for a living, specifically gauge components, so I have a lot of clusters laying around. I fished a parts cluster out of the shed and harvested the odometer from it. A few minutes of work got some digits free and shoved in the Hengstler box for sizing. The box both closed and showed the numbers through the window. Proof of concept! Then I spent the next hour carefully hacking the odometer into place in the counter. The reset shaft (the "top" shaft seen in the pic where I'm holding the odometer) is the exact size for the holes in the Hengstler. It's a bit too long, but a quick snip got it cut down to size. I kept the security spacers between the digits for nice spacing. I moved that blank column from after the ones to before the hundred thousands. And I had to neuter the reset ability. The white teeth got nearly completely cut out and the springy reset button no longer springs. But that's okay. Having an NA Miata odometer inside my Hengstler with my TK number is maybe the best thing I could ever hope for. I've owned an NA Miata for almost 22 years now. It's part of my soul. And now it's part of my blaster.
  22. Extremely cool! I was today years old when I learned all the ESB E11 differences.
  23. I had some downtime today so I got to finish up my scope mod. The number 1 thing I wanted out of this blaster was a cool scope. I wasn't sure if I could accomplish it, but some metal repro kits are on ebay for $80, so I figured even if I totally destroyed this scope, it wouldn't be too painful to replace. I managed to find the right size square security bit to remove the scope. I also took the little monocular from Tino apart and removed the included Quest screws to be swapped out with the more accurate ones. Step 1 was drilling out the nose. Pretty easily done since my drill bit collection had one of the right size. I drilled a bit farther into the scope than the front plate depth. Because that front plate was coming off. I wanted to have light shine through the scope, which meant drilling up at an angle from the front to meet the hole from the back. I didn't want to do that through the scope's nose and then rebuild the nose with putty later. It seemed like slicing off the front plate was easiest and best. That razor saw is coming in clutch for this build. This is the front side. I hollowed it out a LOT and opened up as large a porthole as the material allowed. And this is the back. There are no words for the sheer volume of resin dust covering my garage and every part of my being. It got EVERYWHERE. And it was not quick. Drill. Sand. Hollow. Drill. Blow. Sand. Drill. So very much work. But I got a pretty straight hole through the body, I didn't blow through any of the walls (though you can see light through part of the base) and I got the monocular elements to fit!! Rear element test fitted. This just looks so damn cool. I love the orange coated element. I got the reticle in place as well. It IS indeed right side up when installed, even though you really cannot make out the numbers with your eyes. The only way I could figure out which way was up was with the camera. "Completed" front. It still needs clean up, paint, and weathering of course. But I'm a proud trooper right now! The nose plate glued back on just fine. The gap isn't quite even all the way around. I'll probably clean that up with the dremel cut off wheel (very shallow cutting) before paint. Glue still drying on the rear element. The way light is projected out the front. SO dang cool. And no spending money on a replacement scope for me!
  24. omg good call! I'm sanding the ring even now. Fortunately, I haven't yet painted it.
  25. Definitely! The stock seems lightly attached to the main body on the QD. It's got... This nose attachment, another small one about halfway up the barrel, and... The rear attachment. Looks very simple to cut free TBH. I just gotta psyche myself up for it. In doing research I found this older thread: showing the attachment method that the real Sterlings used - a hollow tube on which the stock rotated and the pins went into. I may try to replicate that. I picked up some hardware at Ace yesterday with the correct diameter for the metal stock. I also did a bit more to the blaster. The included D clip wasn't quite right and it rattled a lot. I've had this X-acto razor saw for something like 5 years and never opened or used it. Well, it was the night. And holy crap how did I wait this long? It's impressive. The cuts it makes are super super thin. Very little material is lost at all. And it's very quick. I think this razor saw will be just the thing to remove the resin stock. And if I can't get a good fit with the metal one, it should glue back on with very little visible change. I snipped the new D clip to the right size, gave it a bit of hidden electrical tape wrapping inside the housing to keep it from rattling, and glued things back in place. I also popped the rail off and found THESE. Square security screws holding the scope in place. Time to dig around the toolbox and see how good I've been at hoarding security bits.
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