gmrhodes13

Nice work trooper, a couple of things before the DO's chime in and these are only suggestions for a better look. Watch the placement of your TD. Not sure what is going on with your left rear thigh cover strip, appears it may be lifted on the left. Perhaps try to reduce the padding in the helmet, you have quite a big gap at the back of the neck. The cover strip on your left calf back appears to be on an angle. S trim closure does not appear central to the helmet. You also have a safety pin on your lower neck. You do have quite a large gap on one of your ears, although gaps are allowable this gap is quite large. There have been conversations in regards to hovi tips not have white rim on Hero's going on screen references Thread here Appears your middle teeth one is larger than the other side. Brow trim appears to drop down in the middle, when looking at the white section under the trim Smaller ab plate could be trimmed a little more "Han" snap could be closer to the edge Looks like you may have a gap on the end of the sniper plate, thumb appears to be behind the plate? Plate is also not quite following the angle of the snin. You could also have your TD screws closer to the ends of the clips Could you also post a few other photos. Front panel on the detonator Close up ab/kidney rivets Good luck with approval

Hello and welcome aboard, looking forward to seeing some BBB photos soon

Not ANH armor, looks more ROTJ, upside down ab plate, white sole shoes, no button covers on belt, I could go on

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13800-red-oxide/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36129-helmet-visor-installation/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36418-shins-l-on-r-or-l-on-l/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36427-am-20-almost-finished/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36340-extending-abcod-and-fixing-armor-gaps/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36293-did-i-just-screw-up-my-belt/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29632-using-plasti-dip-for-the-interior/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36142-countersinking-snaps/, restored by gmrhodes13 18

Great work, loving the diagrams you have come up with. I do however think the grey you have used for the TD pipe is a little dark. The problem with ATA TD's are the caps are too small, it's hard to stick to screen reference as the pipe used is a lot smaller, it's one of those areas that you think do I build to reference specs or try to build to pipe size and look. ATA pipe size is taken into consideration for higher levels so it's not too much of an issue, it's just not as screen accurate as it could be. Great research on the screen references, it can get quite confusing for a new builder though as we don't replicate particular troopers (unlike MEPD) we do try to use generalized (commonly seen references) hence we use those images in the gallery sections, there can be such a thing as too much information One other thing which is just my OCD, have a look a the alignment of the screws to the panel, yours are on the inside of the panel where the screen reference is just in line with the the corners of the panel (if not slightly out) Great work, just need a few tweaks in my mind

Nice work trooper, a few things you may want to adjust before the DO's get here: Forearms are at different heights to gloves, one almost hitting handplate, the other has a large gap If you haven't you may want to place some foam behind the sniper plate so it doesn't interfere with your thigh TD spacing appears a little off, small gap between caps and panel, also your clips are very long. Ideally screws should be a little smaller. You could trim a little more of the top and bottom of your belt as there is a lot of extra material there A few other images the DO's like to see. Close up of the side ab/kidney rivets Close up of the sniper plate, front and both sides. Close up of bottom ear screws Good luck with approval

Hello and welcome aboard, I am also very skinny and had to add some foam/padding behind the ab plate to help fill out the sides. I also have some foam inside my forearms to stop them rotating and also a little foam in my biceps to keep them straight. Another area was the thighs, I have foam on both sides. Yes you could trim down smaller but it would make the armor look out of proportion

Sorry to hear about your loss

Nothing better than BBB's. Here's a thread in regards to the primers Here are some references of the color Some nice bumps and lumps shown here A few builds using red primer

Great work

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

Nice work troopers

If you do need to adjust it is easy to cut a piece of rubber tube on an angle so you get a thin wedge, place the rubber wedge behind the mic tip, you can then rotate this wedge and it will adjust the angle of the mic tip.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35309-emile1138-lost-some-weight/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8117-helmet-ab-paint-detail-reference-guide/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32981-snap-and-strap-options-pre-work/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35502-velcro-issues-on-greaves/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36833-question-about-ab-armour/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36623-bicep-strap-an-anovos-tk-not-happening/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33135-strapping-and-elastic-specifics-with-snaps/, restored by gmrhodes13 17

Before trimming anything off the shins you should try a test fit with all your armor then have a look at the gaps between the thighs and shins and also between the cod and thighs, you may need to adjust a piece which will impact another piece. As you can see from the screen reference there is not much a gap but for a lot of our taller troopers we end up with a larger amount of black showing.

You could also have your screws closer to the ends of the clips. Great work on the fixes, hope to see you at centurion soon.

If you notice other apps they have included images into their post, perhaps add the images separately and you will receive more feedback One issue right off the bat is your butt plate is sticking out, you may need to adjust your strapping, I added a V tab which helped keep the sides in. With a heat gun you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate. Also looks like your belt may be on upside down as your drop boxes are not hanging from under the belt, also belt should not cover the last button on your ab plate it should sit just below

I have skinny arms and had to add a little foam to the insides to help them sit right so don't worry too much if you find they are a little loose

I think our DL has sold himself short, it was his vision of Indy 500 which gave the inspiration for this racing theme, so thank you for the inspiration Andrew, all I did was run with it

Nice work, looking great, I'll just add watch the height of your thighs they differ in the rear photo. Also drop boxes are not aligned in a few photos I wouldn't add mobility cuts, you have some pretty big gaps there now and should get a lot of movement as is. Good luck with approval.

Just to add, you only receive additional stars above your EIB side banner award, does not apply for the centurion side banner award, you only receive one centurion banner with no additions no matter how many costumes you have approved at centurion. Additional costume awards will show on your approval thread as (APPROVED) 2nd, 3rd, 4th and so on. You may want to check out this thread on FISD awards

Had a little time so just adding a few things common between Phasma and FOTK's, there is quite a lot we don't have as L2 on the FOTK's this is either because the pieces are hard to acquire Or we are balancing the L2 and L3 requirements. I would like to see the rubber gaskets as L3 same as the FOTK's, I know there is no L2 requirement but rubber gaskets used to be readily available but I'm not aware of anyone supplying rubber gaskets at this time, L2 should be a level that is easily obtainable. Shoulder Gaskets Gaskets are rubber or a shiny black material with ridges. The shoulder gaskets must cover all exposed areas under the shoulder bell, between the bicep and chest, and between bicep and back. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gaskets shall be made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable. (same as FOTK) Elbow gaskets Gaskets are rubber or a shiny black material with ridges The elbow gaskets must cover all exposed areas between the bicep and forearm. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gaskets shall be made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable. Knee gaskets Gaskets are rubber or a shiny black material with ridges The knee gaskets must cover all exposed areas between the thigh and shin. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gaskets shall be made of rubber. Fabric gaskets are not acceptable. Abdomen Abdomen section is reflective metallic silver in color The abdomen section must wrap around the wearer's body without a visible seam. The abdomen has 7 boxes attached that matches the order and placement shown The large box has a small black recessed square to on the lower left of the wearer. The second box to the right of the wearer has a small black recessed rectangle near the top. ADD OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The boxes should sit against the abdominal plate with minimal to no gaps. ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The seams between the abdominal armor and the 7 boxes should not be filled. Thighs Thighs are reflective metallic silver in color There are seams on the inside and outside of each thigh. A clip greeblie is present high and across the outside seams of each thigh. The right thigh (when worn) includes a base for a weapon holster. Holster does not need to be functional. ADD OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Holster must be Functional. ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The seams between the abdominal armor and the 7 boxes should not be filled. Captain Phasma Blaster Rifle Based on a replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Similar to standard First Order Stormtrooper Blaster with extended stock attached. Details may be painted reflective silver or reflective silver with a golden hue. ADD OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Holster must be Functional. ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Working lights and working front torch are required. Front handle must be movable. Undersuit An undergarment must be worn such that the space between the thighs and the belt shows a black material. The black material may be shiny or matte. The reference photo shows the type used on screen but is not required for basic approval. ADD OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shorts area of the undersuit should be shiny. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Gloves/fingers Hand armor is metallic silver or chrome in color. Gloves are black. Gloves extend underneath the forearm. Hand plates are rigid square boxes and the hand plates are mounted securely over the back of the glove. A wrist plate is mounted securely between the handplate and the forearm, contouredcountoured to match the hand plate. The black oval detail is aligned with the index finger of each hand. Finger armor is two rigid pieces per finger, proportionate in size to the fingers, containing rounded bumps on top as shown in the photo. ADD OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Hand plates should have a recessed oval detail which is aligned with the index finger of each hand ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Palm should have padded areas with stitching Biceps Biceps are reflective metallic silver in color Biceps have only one seam on the side that faces forward. A clip greeblie is present low and across the seam Two black ovals are present on the outward facing side of the bicep. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Trapezoid detail and ridges in bicep must be present (small detailed section). The inner seam should be overlapped. Seams can be fixed or functional. Cape The cape is a black canvas material that crosses the chest diagonally from the right shoulder to the left elbow area. The cape drops down the left side of the body to within a few inches of the floor or can slightly drag along the floor behind the left foot. There is a dark red stripe approximately 1.25" - 1.5" in width that follows the front seam of the cape from the right shoulder to the bottom of the left side of the cape. The cape should fit across the shoulders and may have some slight bunching on the left shoulder. There is no visible clasp, hooks or snaps at the right shoulder connection Light wear-and-tear and weathering is permitted. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cape is 3 panels, with seams on either side of the back plate. Four asymmetrical pockets are present on the left panel; the top one overlaps the seam. They are in the pattern 1-2-1 from top to bottom. The top pocket is approximately even with the bicep. The pocket size is approximately 8” tall and 5” wide, but may vary because they are not identical. Two straps approximately 1.25” wide extend from inside the hem of the left panel at hand-level. One strap approximately 1” wide extends from under the side of the bottom pocket. The cape is coated on the outside with a thin rubber-like medium. The fabric is cotton canvas with a diagonal weave visible in the medium. A black strap approximately 1-1.5” wide extends from the top of the right shoulder down the back. ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The cape is coated on the outside with a thin rubber-like medium. Definitely need added info in regards to correct forearms TFA TLJ Forearms Reflective metallic silver in color Forearms have have ridged rail, similar to a picatinny, embedded on the inside of the forearm. Forearms have a box on the bottom the wrist end, roughly covering 1/3rd of the embedded rail. Each forearm has two 'clasp greeblies' on the outward facing surface, near the wrist. Detail box includes black rectangle on small edge perpendicular and closest to wrist. TFA forearms are curved at the elbow on the sides (refer to reference image) TLJ forearms are not acceptable OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ADD OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearm wrist box should be separate pieces, affixed to forearms. Forearm top plate is not attached at front of wrists.

Wrong link, that is to your legion forum profile, the correct link should be to your member profile https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=33056

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28190-thermal-detonator-screw-size/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20215-shoulder-bell-issues/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21610-shoulder-bell-rotation-issue/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/4076-shoulder-bell-question/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38200-sniper-knee-attachment-question/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37767-cheap-removable-helmet-padding/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35909-pyrates-ap-kidney-notch-modification/, restored by gmrhodes13 15

Hello and welcome to the forum, it really depends on what make, some you just can't use the opposite side because of the way they are molded. Perhaps post a comparison image so we can better help you. If you notice in the image below the screen reference shows raised areas under the cover strip on the top but it is not on the bottom and those are smooth not raised, so using the same one would then have the raised section underneath. Some makes of armor do not have the raised sections, some makes of armor have them top and bottom so really depends on what you have.