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  1. Expanding off my last post, I wanted to get to this point with the belt so I could fit it with the ab plate. I drilled out holes using Ukswrath's estimates. I began to install the snaps here. Due to the awkwardness of the ab's shape, I had to invent the shady tower of Pisa. But it worked! Now with those installed, I could us a pencil to shave some lead on the snaps and press it into the canvas to get my distance. Importantly, I also made sure there was a slight overlap on the button plate. I quadrupled checked this and the
  2. Continuing with the belt, I drilled out the holes to attach ammo belt to the canvas. The middle hole I mismeasured so it's off by a little. Luckily, it will be covered by the button, so I'm not worried about correcting it. Measure twice people! Using these holes, I measured out the middle of my canvas and marked where to punch holes. When it comes to the hole punching, I tried out several of my options. I ordered a rotary punch, and while this one hasn't been useful with nylon or elastic, it worked well enough on the canvas!
  3. Well, further work on the ab's right side is postponed until I can get new snap pliers. Heads up, stay away from Hobby Lobby's heavy duty snap pliers. They have poor instructions that also refer to vague non-included attachments. They also break the snaps. So until amazon delivers me a new one, getting started on the belt will get me closer to finishing the ab plate anyway. I found it easier to score the ammo belt from its backside by following the edge of the holes' cusps. I found this nice diagram for reference: http://
  4. I'm jumping around a bit since I feel I want to move to another piece when I reach a slight obstacle impasse. Here's the left ab/kidney plate juncture where I measured out the rivet holes. Reference: Marked, drilled and test fit:
  5. Maybe the Walt pulls vary slightly from armor to armor. I got in contact and they didn't seem to be aware of this requirement and suggested a similar process. I'm not too bothered by the described process if I can just find some big enough scrap ABS for the plate.
  6. Thanks guys! I've made some of those fixes now:
  7. Yeah, I should have took a picture before I trimmed. The WTF ab plate did not have much extra to create the sides of the plate, and had large dimples going into the sides of it, so I cut it all off. From other WTF threads, this seems to be the norm. I'm definitely going to try put some ABS behind and filling the seams.
  8. Since I already had my paint stuff out from the helmet, I went ahead and finished the buttons. Now at last I've added the cover strips and velcro to the shins. I noticed when opening one of the clamshells, the velcro worked a little to well and got pulled off the back of the coverstrip. I'll either have to be careful opening them, or find a workaround in the future. Maybe its as simple are reapplying the velcro after roughing up the back side of the cover strip first. (Images flipped from mirror) And here's the test fit of the shins o
  9. Thank you CableGuy! I appreciate those call outs, as I've started those changes to approximate those reference photos and others I've seen posted. Today I tightened my belt, pulled up the bootstraps, and jumped into the hot water. Bathing that is. I knew that I was going to have to adjust my calves/shins. So along with the shoulder straps that had to be curved, I grabbed the legs and also the ab buttons that I wanted to flatten out just a bit. My neighbor kindly lent his stockpot to do the boiling in. I heated up the water until it was boiling a
  10. Okay! I think I'm done with the helmet for now! So excited to see this come together. On a side note, when I first go the helmet out of the box, I noticed a couple small flecks of red and blue color that I assumed were paint. So it wasn't until I started cleaning up my own paint that I realized mineral spirits wasn't removing them. Any idea what they are and how to remove it?
  11. Update of several things. 1) I drilled a few new holes on the right ear and filled the old one with ABS paste. The screw still didn't sit the way I liked because of the interior angle of the helmet. To fix this, I took a small scrap of cover strip and sanded it into a wedge. Then glued it on the inside and drilled through. It helped a lot! 2) I decided to start over with the back vents, because the masking tape just left weird raised bits when I tried to extend the lines. I sanded the bumps down and then will repaint gray.
  12. Okay, I've squared away the ears. Still need to just make the ABS paste to fill the hole. I've done painting in the mean time. The black vents got a bit out of hand, so I'm going to go back an clean them up with some grey paint. Not pictured, are the ears and hovi mic tips that I painted also.
  13. Ah that's a good point! I'll have to do that before I drill any more holes.
  14. And now the right ears. I cut one of the ears provided, but wasn't satisfied and started over on the backup pair. Got a better fit. I drilled the bottom screw hole at an odd angle. I'm going to use the hole in the underside, and drill outward from there to get a screw hole slightly higher on the ear so it can actually screw tight and bring the ear close to the helmet. Afterwards, I can fill the old hole with ABS paste and it will probably be hidden by the S rubber seal anyways.
  15. Everybody said that ears would be one of the trickiest things to do, and they were right. I followed this guide pretty extensively and I still think I messed up a couple times. So hours of fiddling got me to here: I feel like it's pretty close, even if I felt like every step was an overcorrection. Although a few slips of the dremel left some scratches on the ear...anyone have a good idea on how to buff out scratches? Also, I need to figure out what WTF's complementary bolts have to do here. Does the longest one need to be cut off after installation? Or does
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