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About Cali_Nole

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    Lincoln, CA

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  1. Hi Bill, I purchased my standoffs from Amazon (link below). Obviously, the kit is waaaay more than needed, but I was unsure of which type/size I was going to use so I decided to get this assorted kit so I'd have many options to choose from. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7828LC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Unfortunately, it's been stalled for a bit now. Just general life stuff, but hoping to dive back into it soon.
  2. Hey Bill. So my reasoning for fitting/mocking up the entire helmet prior to any painting was that with all the handling of the pieces I'd be doing, I didn't want any paint on there to scuff up or chip. Started with mock up, then painting, then finished with lenses and frown mesh and Hovi tips. I'm sure there are 101 different ways to go about it, but this worked for me and I'd more than likely do the same on the next one.
  3. Hi Bill. I'm currently building my first set of TK stunt armor and went with ATA back in September of last year. My experience with ATA was great, no hitches. Received my BBB within 3-4 days after it shipped. Everything accounted for inside the boxes. Nice quality, thick ABS...count me as a satisfied customer!
  4. Looks great to me! I'm fairly certain the brow line to top of ear gap won't be an issue, as like you said, it's consistent with the Dave M helmet, but maybe wait for more experienced troopers to chime in. Mine wanted to fit the same way, but I went the other route and thinned out the bottom to bring the top more in line with the brow. Of course, that gave me a bigger gap between the top of the cheek tube and the ear, so it was 'pick your poison'. Pretty much a personal preference thing I think, since the screen used ears were kind of all over the map.
  5. Your input is appreciated as always, Caleb! Yeah, I was reeeeally hoping to avoid shims, but it might be the best way to go. Almost seems counter intuitive to trim more off, only to add material with shims, but I do understand the concept. It's really the only way to reduce, or eliminate, the coverstrip ridges in order to reduce the coverstrip width. I just don't wanna! But I agree, I can start with 1. and 3. and then reevaluate from there.
  6. So I've procrastinated long enough, back to the build! My last post was finishing off the exterior of the helmet. This post: 1. Helmet interior 2. Biceps (with potential issues) 1. Helmet interior Nothing spectacular or ground breaking here, installed padding and fans. For padding I just used a basic helmet padding set from Amazon and supplemented it with a 1" strip of "high density" foam from Joann's, as my eyelashes were hitting the eye lenses so I needed a bit thicker padding along my forehead. Below pictures show the foam before and after wrapping it with
  7. Ears...I'm still having nightmares from mine lol! No, seriously, they weren't as scary as I'd anticipated them to be. For me, tedious and time consuming for sure, just required a good amount of patience.
  8. My bucket has the same warp at the right side trap, so it seems to be consistent for ATA. I just considered it another bit of wonderful wonkiness when I was building mine. To my (newbie) eyes, it looks like you could trim a little of the wearer's right side cap/back in the curve of the tube. But if it were me, I'd still leave that bottom, front corner of the tube for now. At least until you get things lined up the way you want them and figure out the bottom rivet position. Just be really cautious if you do. The back, right side edge of the face plate (the edge extending back
  9. Thanks David! I was back and forth between hand painting and decals, I seriously doubted my ability to paint to my liking. But I'm glad I went with hand painting for my lid, turned out much better than I expected it to. And the imperfections add a little character, in my opinion!
  10. Thanks Caleb, much appreciated! Funny you mention Cricket's sponge technique. After reading one of her build threads, I had every intention of employing that method. Bought a makeup sponge while compiling my supplies (and I'm sure I looked as lost as can be in the Target makeup aisle!). Then after painting everything else, the brushes just felt more comfortable to me. But on my next lid, I'll probably revisit the idea...and I already have the sponge! Oh and thanks for the white paint tip as well!
  11. Thank you Glen! And yeah, that was my thought on the Humbrol 22 as well, just wasn't sure if it was normal. Roger that, I did the same with the spray plastic-dip on the interior...sprayed some onto a plastic tray and brushed on for a couple minor touch ups. Thank you for the tip, I'll discontinue use of the 22. And just for an additional reference for anyone interested, here's what the Humbrol 22 looked like on a larger area...definitely looks cream, custard, eggshell, etc.
  12. It's been a bit since my last post, so time for a progress report. Been working on completing the exterior of my bucket and I think it's finished for the most part. All in all, I'm quite pleased with how it has turned out (was nervous about hand painting). But as always, PLEASE call out anything that doesn't look right. Eye lenses and frown mesh: I originally intended to go with Joseph's sugru lens mounting method, so I purchased some sugru from Joseph and then picked up some more from amazon. Had plenty on hand in case I screwed anything up. I really liked the way A.
  13. Thanks Glen! Now that you mention it, one of the screw holes on my right ear doesn't align perfectly with the hole in the bucket, so it gives me a little trouble fitting the screw. Nothing major, just have to wrestle with it a bit. I might have to explore "slotting" that hole as a possible solution when I re-assemble.
  14. Thanks Dan! I've found your tips and vids here and on YouTube very helpful. Ok, so I completed Take 2 on the tears and traps pinstriping last night. I think they came out much better this time around. I still have to clean up some of the outside edges of the pinstripes (photos below). I also countersunk the screw holes on my ears today. I used a 7/64" drill bit for the screw holes. And I used a 1/4" drill bit to countersink the holes, BY HAND - no drill, just manually turned the bit by hand, as I've seen advised many times for better control. As you can see in the
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