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FINALLY! As some of you may know I moved into my new house (at last) and I hope you understand that I am not bragging, but I am chuffed to have my own little Fortress of solitude, as it were. I still have to build mannequins for one of my TKs and my Tusken raider, but I'm getting close to having my ideal SW room. Side note: Has anyone who collects TK figurines of any size noticed that they (with rare exceptions) have no holster?

A few months ago, I got a set of Electrobinocs from @justjoseph63 and have been extremely pleased with them. But... well... I wanted them to DO something. I got the idea to turn them into Bluetooth speakers so they could play the TK Chatter or some music during non-blaster troops. And, fair warning, this is now a finished project. This won't be an ongoing build. I've wasn't even sure I could make this work, so I didn't post up a build thread for the binocs. I didn't wanna be defeated by this little hunk of plastic. This was my first step - hacking open the binocs. I sliced it at the rear intersection as it seemed like the most logical place. I then cut off the lens and drilled a hole in the (extremely thick) resin. Joseph doesn't mess around in the creation of these guys. The resin is VERY thick front and rear. Walls have some decent thickness too. It can face some serious action without being damaged. You know, aside from being hacked up. The front 3/4 is attached to the back eyepieces with 3 screws and a thick layer of glue all around. I used a dremel cutoff wheel to saw it free. I wanted to use the top knob as the volume control, so off it came. It was held in place by a small screw. I bought this little bluetooth amp off amazon... and destroyed it trying to modify the buttons to be remote. I would not suggest anyone get this amp if you want to modify it. I'm pretty good with electronics and regularly solder gauge clusters back together for my day job. Relocating knobs and switches bricked this little guy bad. Recovery wasn't possible. Then I happened across this Bluetooth speaker KIT on Parts Express. It was mentioned offhandedly in a youtube vid that didn't really have anything to do with the project. At the time of this writing, the kit is about $44USD. Check it out on Parts Express. I didn't need all of the parts, expecially the 2.5" speakers, but the kit was much cheaper than buying the parts individually. Separately, the board and wires are more expensive than the whole kit. I also bought the optional battery board and batteries to allow the board to play without being plugged in. A total of about $66USD. I used two of these tiny 1.5" speaker drivers (coincidentally also Dayton) as they juuuust fit into the binocs. If anyone out there decides to use these parts for their own project, I'd highly suggest buying an extra or two of the 2.1mm DC barrel jack. They're quite delicate and I had to buy a spare. One hole wasn't gonna cut it, so I printed a new sensor array in ABS and sliced off the molded one. Not a bad fit! And not a bad finish after a bit of extra sanding. The volume knob board required a very very thin wall to be installed into. So much grinding! And the speaker fit pretty well in the far left of the binoc housing, but not so well toward the right. More grinding. My dremel extension handle got some action. The tiny speakers needed to be stood away from the front holes to allow them to work well. My local Ace Hardware hand 1/4" spacers and associated tiny screws to enable mounting. I believe each of the speakers uses 3 screws to mount. Drilling tiny holes in a deep housing isn't the easiest thing. This extension made it possible. And let me just apologize right here for the severe lack of build progress photos I took. I had roadblocks at like every step of this project. The drill bit extension for example. Every time I hit a dead end and had to wait another week for more parts from amazon, I was uncertain if this thing would ever get finished... so I didn't take many in-progress photos. I think this pic was of the nose and sensor being glued on for the first time in about 2 months. I also placed speaker cloth in each with hot glue. One of the very few pix I took showing the inner parts placement. It's TIGHT in there. Speakers at the very front and just a tiny bit of space between the back of them and the front edge of those huge batteries. The batteries are screwed on in the very front and have some 50lb double sided mounting tape holding them in place in the back. The extra speaker wire and wire bundle for that volume knob are zip tied and stowed to the right side. The main Bluetooth board has barely enough space to be flipped and live right above the batteries. I used the top center button between the viewports as the power switch. The bottom two hide some screws. The bluetooth blue LED indicators light up the viewports. And the wires are indeed everywhere. I tried to tidy them before screwing the two halves together, but was only medium successful. All of the parts hide behind a printed acrylic panel. And here we are! That's a finished and re-assembled Electrobinoculars!!! It doesn't have the front lens anymore, but the opened up sensor array sorta makes up for that lack of magic. I really like the look of that sensor array. Non-cannon LED pilot light are pretty easy to overlook. The little green one comes on when the unit is charging. Red is power. The two things above the power & green LED are my original attempt at power and line in. They didn't go well. They're basically tiny speaker ports now. Power on and blue Bluetooth lights lit. Note the top button - it sticks out slightly and is a latching SPST push button switch. I found a 6mm switch that would fit inside the little button housing. The only downside of this button is that it can spin a bit when pressed. That's just the nature of the switch I used. It's installed tightly, just the button itself that can spin a little. This is VERY hard to see IRL, but it looks pretty cool in the photo. I did a holofoil desert scene with a little sandcrawler. At least it hides the wiring. And here it is!! A working demo vid. I can't wait to troop with it.

I found I had to apply a little heat to the calves to give them a small twist, now this is not without danger and you would need to practice on other ABS plastic, many use a hot water bath but I use a heat gun but with caution you can go from slightly moving to molten mess. Some shin issue threads Cricket used a magnetic closure, I've seen a few do this Cricket also did some hot water bath adjustments to the armor, you may pick up some tips References for mobility cuts

JUST MY OPINION, but to me the elastic and bra hooks are nonsense and only worth your time if you're going for a fully screen-accurate static display. It's clear even in the movies that they don't actually work to align or hold the shins together effectively, so most of us use Velcro instead. Personally, I use a 1" strip of fuzzy (loop) side velcro on the outside, under the coverstrip, and then I trim a strip to about 1/2-3/4" of industrial (hook) side for the inner half. You always want your hook side facing away from your body when possible. The industrial holds well, but I wouldn't recommend using full industrial because it does put a lot of strain on the armor when detaching it if you're not careful. Mobility cuts are a huge help, especially if you're a little on the shorter side, but I've done them to all of my kits just for extra comfort and range of motion, as they are fully canon to have, and do help make misalignments less noticeable as well. Anovos doesn't line up by default either. Just ensure your cuts don't leave the 'ridge' and have been sanded super smooth. Good luck!

yes you can give then a light sand to slightly flatten the area, but also do the same on the cover strips. If you need to cut these they will always have a noticeable lip on the edge of the cut. You can quickly take that off by running a steel ruler on an angle down the length and a slither of abs from that kicked up sedge will curl off. I posted an image of that technique in another thread a few years back so will try and find that to post here.

Very nice, I'm a little spread out through various rooms, I have to cull the collection at some stage Yes I've noticed the no holster a few times, but some still do, my older 6" Black Series had holsters but more recent ones don't well except TKC which does have a holster, I'm still awaiting a few other recent Black Series TK's to compare this with. It is also the same 3.75" figures, older had holsters, newer not so much

Our troops here are also exactly as Glen describes - VERY very few official LFL events and our garrison is not strict about such items. In the ~8 months that I've been trooping we've had one single LFL event that was limited to 5 troopers and I didn't volunteer for quickly enough. For official troops, we're expected to remove any and all non-canon items and wear our top spec gear. So, for example, the rubber gloves come out and the pilots gloves get put away. On all other local troops, we're encouraged to build and bring fun props like this that help engagement with the public. More than 50% of our local troops are non-blaster, which leaves us TKs empty handed. These binocs help fill those empty hands. One of our most popular troopers is a baby Yoda toy held by a Rebels Scout (people go crazy for Grogu here). Again, as I said, it's a laid back garrison. Others would probably not allow such props to be carried. Sorry if this project offended you Lluis.

Hello! I am 0KTrooper and I am going to be starting my first ever build. I have already received my armor kit (with a helmet kit) from KB props as well as my gaskets from Geeky Pink. As this is my first build, I will be taking it slow and steady. I want to have a good result and limit mistakes as much as possible. Fortunately for me, my sister who has a degree in commercial art will be assisting me on this build. However, I am sure we are still going to have a ton of questions. I am thinking that the helmet kit is going to be rather challenging due to the amount of detail that will have to go into it. If it becomes too hard for us, I might bail and go for an Anovos helmet. I am always open to any advice from experienced troopers. I already have my first question: in the picture of my armor attached below, you may notice that I received two cod pieces. Is this standard? Any idea why I would have received two or is it simply a mistake? Thank you, and I hope that you will follow along with my build! I'm very excited!

Hello there, id like to get some meanings about my HWT Backpack. I know the Color of some Parts could be a Problem, but i Build it from a Manuel from here wich was colored like mine.

Great thank you!

Thanks Glen! I'll have a good read through those links perfect

That's very helpful information guys, Thanks!

Hiya, You could go for what I call the “hybrid method”. This uses Velcro at the top and middle positions, but uses elastic and Velcro at the lower point (near the boot). This gives some flex at the heel. It’s easier to see it than explain, so here’s me chatting about it. Regarding the bra hooks, I have to disagree with them being “nonsense” (sorry Rascal). Although the RS shins/calves don’t align very well at the back, many kits do line up well and the bra hooks are fine for that. They give flexibility, especially around the ankle. Hope this helps. :-)

Yep-totally do not like that either! They are Anovos decals and my kit is BSP which they obviously made the recessed oval too large on the armor. I could always use some gaffer tape and cut to size but don't want the black oval to be too large. I'll go with this for now and see what happens.

Hi Kevin... that is one fantastic looking pack, sir! Always great to see another HWT in the making! Most of us use a grayish blue paint for the areas seen below. Don't forget to do some light weathering as well!

Great job, Adam. I also like the worn collar strap with your TK ID in Aurebesh.

Today's (May 24, 2022) update: Today was a grand assembly day. I first detached the barrel from the barrel hub to sand the barrel a bit in an attempt to line up the screw hole better with the underbarrel. If I did this project again I'd take time to sand the area where the barrel hub attaches to the barrel more, as there was some excess plastic that could've caused the issue. I reattached these two pieces, then attached the handle and rear folding stock to the rear barrel. I tried to also glue the barrel hub to the rear folding stock, but had to redo this later due to some unforeseen issues. I attached the tactical stock unit as well. Lastly, I glued / plugged the underbarrel segment to the rear folding stock from plug under the barrel / barrel hub. The screw that was supposed to lock it to the barrel was slightly off. To fix this, my dad helped angle / enlarge the screw holes on the underbarrel portion so that it lined up as best as it could. I'm leaving it as it is overnight to let the glue dry before applying finishing touches: Attaching the scope lenses, magazine unit, and hengstler cover. Main receiver portion assembled and stock attached: Final state for the evening:

This is 100% proof the Triton belt has to be a Clone belt. No doubt.

Shame the lower shin decals don't fill the whole area, the decals probably right sized just the recessed area too long Reference

More decal fun! Box 5 box 2 Shins

The blaster cam out amazing. Top notch work! I am currently copying an MGC part for part. A nice guy who owns one in Japan kindly disassembled his so I can make molds. Once I finally get it all molded and casted up I will be back here looking how to make or acquire all the add ons to make it an ROTJ blaster. Thank you for sharing all the information on this build.

Perfect! Thanks!

Hey Daniel! There is a mentor-mentee program on here known as the Attaché Program. You can find an overview of the program and the Attachés here. The Attachés for the Badlands Garrison seem to be @Pyrates and @wook1138 so feel free to reach out to them directly on here or wait for them to see your query Whilst neither are listed as ROTK experts they might still be a help with building or simply finding the right resources. As it seems you've already found the R1TK area and started a build thread, you might find prior chiming in from all over the world as well if you need help. I hope this helped, good luck and enjoy your white armor!

Hi parker, glad to read you're starting your build and hope this thread can be helpful. My Front section is as yours, what I did was just trim the return edge a little more to allow more space to my head when suiting up. The reason I leave it as it was thinking about the plastic could weaken and break. What I would recommend is to leave it as it and If when finished your build you feel uncomfortable, you can trim it. " it's better and easier to remove plastic at the end , than add it again" Bellow is a sample photo as it's usually trimmed (not mine)

The trooper survival guide would.better explain the differences https://databank.501st.com/databank/TrooperSurvivalGuide

Finished! Again, please keep in mind that this 3D E-11 kit was apparently designed from the "Battlefront" videogame version so there are some significant differences. Most I could overcome, but a big one was the holes in the shroud. They simply do not correspond to the screen used (MGC) ones. I got as close as I could, so bear that in mind. Once I got ready to mount the U channels I found that my rivet gun was too wide to fit down into the channels themselves (pic 1). After a few choice curse words muttered under my breath I knew had to figure out how to attach them. I briefly considered screws, but it just wouldn't be the same. SO, I separated the rivets (14 of them), separated the mandrels (center parts), cut down the length and epoxied them back into the rivet pins as seen in the second 2 pics below. I should have mentioned before that when building the main body that I installed a thin metal tube inside the shroud to give the appearance of an actual barrel. Oops. My plan ended up as seen below (pic 1). Drill out the holes on the channels and shroud/barrel (just as one normally would) but I epoxied each modified rivet in. I was afraid this may make it sort of fragile, but after the epoxy set they are actually very sturdy. WHEW! HINT: Drill all holes in the channels and shroud BEFORE attaching them. The holes for the rivets were integrated into the print, but they did not line up correctly (mainly due to the barrel mods) so I drilled new ones. Hint: Make sure the holes for the rivets are between the holes in the shroud (pic 2). The channel that sits on the left side will have to have the bottom bent down on the front to accommodate the front "D" ring. HINT: Attach the D-ring/mount AFTER attaching the channels. The stock that came with the kit was too long after cutting down the length of the of the shroud earlier , and to add some "heft" I used a real vintage Sterling folding stock for this build, which differs slightly from the original- especially in the area seen with the red arrow (first pic). Not too noticeable, but I hope it doesn't keep me up at night thinking about it.** I did add the rivet on the side, which as I mentioned before will prevent the stock from extending. **It will. After touching up the paint and letting that dry overnight, I added some light weathering. Had these made for all my display pieces. And that's it. Finished, and finally added to my "wall-o'-weapons". To anyone who has followed this, thanks for looking! U-Channels- After spending more time that I care to admit to searching for these, I finally found a seller (George) on the RPF. Once he got them made shipping was fast and I honestly could not be more pleased with the quality. A little pricey, but well worth every cent in my opinion. Link to his sales thread on the RPF here. UPDATE: I did not realize that the seller was actually Caleb @TKCaleb who has been a member here since 2008. SO- it looks like you can contact him here as well!

Getting very close

NEW In Memoriam Detachment Leader Merchandise & Officer Hall of Fame Just For Laughs Update Your Build Threads Around the Detachment Celebration Costume Totals INFORMATION & AWARD PROGRAMS Common FISD Acronyms and TK Glossary Pre Approval Forum 3D Section Field Exercise Award Imperial Attaché Program Fire Teams EIB & Centurion: What do these terms mean? Need Help Ask the Deployment Officers Advanced Tactics Awards Public Relations Staff List 2020 Follow FISD The Singapore Garrison lost one of their own on 25 April 2022. Shawn Chak, TKID 7576, was a great friend to many. He could always bring smiles to any gathering, and his positive attitude towards life was always infectious. He will be dearly missed by the Garrison, who will hold on to their fond memories with him. Shawn is also missed by his wife Jessica, who shares his passion for Star Wars and the 501st Legion. Our condolences go out to his family, friends. "Buckets Off" The French Garrison suffered a loss in 2021 with the passing of Sebastien Veidt (TC-2432). His friends have written an eulogy for him, as follows: It is with great regret that our dear friend Sebastien Veidt joined the Stars to become one of them. Sebastien shared with us so many beautiful things in life: Passion, Friendship, Love and his Joie de Vivre. From his TC – 2432, he is an ANH Stormtrooper, an Imperial Officer, a Shoretrooper, an Imperial Soldier, a Stormtrooper Concept by Ralph Mcquarrie and a Clone Trooper. He became the greatest of the Heroes conveying a positive image of Human Values and knew how to highlight his happiness through his passion and his everyday life at our side, family and friends. We keep in our mind and heart, his smile and his good mood. We miss His presence and we know that in the Galaxy, one star shines brighter than the others and we know that our dear friend is watching over us. Our condolences go out to his family, friends. "Buckets Off" Eternal Legionnaire Gallery: https://www.501st.com/members/memoriam.php Greetings fellow members, Celebration Anaheim 2022 is looming and troopers from around the globe will meet and make new friendships, catch up with old friends and have a truly fabulous time. Unfortunately I won't make it there personally, but some of the FISD staff certainly will. They have planned a meet and greet time slot, to try and bring some of our staff, attache's and members together on thursday, 6pm. Also keep an eye open for any further updates on that. Our group photo time slot looks to be locked in Christoph (Danny) Lauber (Ripper_L) TK-55550 has organised this and the time slot for all detachment photos can be found HERE FISD time slot is 4:00PM Saturday 28th May Location is South Terrace of the Convention Center accessible via the second floor. When you enter the main entrance (that face the fountains), turn left and go up the escalator (there is also an elevator). The escalator will let you right off such that you will be able to see the first photo below. Head towards those doors and walk outside. You definitely need a Celebration pass to gain access to this area via the second level. Detachment Staff Update: Jim Ferrell (Rat) TK-95970 is taking a break from his role as DPRO managing our Facebook social media platform, and moving into the IPM. Thank you Jim for your service to the Detachment, the door is open for you in our PR team when you are ready to come back. Justin Reed (TheRascalKing) TK 61490 will be stepping into the DPRO role and taking over from Jim's duties for Facebook. Justin is a good fit as he does spend plenty of time in that social media platform, so keep a look out for his updates and posts. Congratulations Justin, we look forward to seeing what you bring to our Social Media DPRO team. I'd like to thank our DMBO James for the huge task of getting our shirt run organised, manufactured and ready to ship. He is still waiting on payment from a few members so please if this is you, get your payment in so Keepsmile can start shipping these out to you. This runs was not without it's ups and downs, But James let nothing sway him in getting us to the finish line. Before I sign off on this edition, I would also like to thank the members who currently have build threads underway on our forums. We are consistently blow away by not only the quality and detail put into these builds, but also the ingenuity of our members in coming up with more ways to assemble and create bits and pieces for their costume. You folk are a credit to FISD, you inspire others, and you keep this place the best resource for Stormtroopers bar none. Thanks for your time and enjoy the May edition. With Unquestioned Loyalty Andrew Franke TK11469 "Sly11" Detachment Leader Hello Troopers! The Racing shirts are paid for and the vendor says they are finished with manufacturing and they are preparing them for shipping. With hopes that they will make it before SWCA 2022! Once tracking has been provided to me, I will provide it to you! Keep an eye on your emails and please check your spam folders for emails from TK-12953@outlook dot com I think they look amazing and I hope you will agree. Here is the sample shirt being modeled by my son, TK-12140. With the 15th Anniversary Shirt Run almost complete, we have started a poll for a members choice Merch item. Please vote in the poll, or if you have an item that you'd like to see leave it in the comment! This poll closes on 2 June 2022, so get your vote in early. Once the item has been chosen, we will work on design work, so keep that in mind as well! Poll Link We will have at least 2 more items this year after this one. So be sure to be checking in to the forum to learn more! And for those of you going to SWCA 2022, I look forward to seeing you there. Please come up and say hello to your friendly neighborhood DMBO With Unquestioned Loyalty James Silvius TK-12953 "jsilvius" Merchandise & Branding Officer Please welcome TK - 21175 Jim as March 2022’s Stormtrooper Hall of Fame! Big congratulations Trooper!!!https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46139-74-tk-21175-hotel-troop-log/?do=findComment&comment=732734 And without further delay please welcome TK - 60446 Dennis as April 2022’s Stormtrooper Hall of Fame!!! My bucket off to you Trooper - epic work!!!https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/51433-4-tk-60446-aradunff-troop-log/?do=findComment&comment=729804 With Unquestioned Loyalty Aaron Gibson TK-99725 "Pyrates" Curator Hall of Fame "FISD Memes" Thank you to Luca "Morgi" TK66744 for starting a FISD specific meme thread, hope to see more of these in the future not only by you but by others as well. You can find the thread here WE NEED YOU TO UPDATE YOUR BUILD THREADS As most would be aware we are diligently working through the forums updating watermarked images, missing images and broken links, this has taken over a year so far and has been a monumental task but there is still a lot of work ahead of us. Members build threads are one of the biggest areas of watermarked/missing images and we are asking you the membership to help and update your build threads yourselves as this is just too big a task for staff. Build threads requiring updates are being moved over to this area https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/241-build-threads-requireing-maintenance/ Thank you in advance for your cooperation. New FISD Tri Fold Brochure We have just launched our newly revised Detachment Tri Fold brochure. It's been quite a long time since we actually had these available and since then many things have changed leading us to updating some of the text to include new costumes, and have more relevant information. Originally these were done in a limited run by the member who created them, but nowadays, we have moved this to a print your own service making them accessible to all countries around the globe. Files are available to all full 501st members on request, and are completed in a very high resolution to ensure quality in a finished product. The thread can be found here for more information and how to access the files. Hovi/Mic Tips - Origin Found A massive thank you to Mike "Prophecy Maker" who has recently posted an image of the original Hovi/Mic Tips. We give you the "Swirlerators" My E-11 Fan Film This month we also had an amazing E-11 fan film from Robert "Rob78", you can tell a lot of work went into this, well done Robert I'm sure everyone will enjoy the detail you have put into this video. You can find his thread here Star Wars Celebration Anaheim 2022 Star Wars Celebration has started officially announcing guests and panels in the past weeks. Several staff members will be attending SWCA this year and we are planning to host some FISD events framing the celebration program. Here are the dates for what we've planned so far: We start on the first day of Star Wars Celebration with a cozy meet&greet at 6pm in the Hilton's Mix Lounge. All FISD members are invited to have some chitchat there before going to the multi club bash, thursday at 8pm! All attachés, please check in on the staff & attaché get-together interest thread in the Attaché HQ. It's most likely going to take place on friday. Also on Friday: the "Detachments of the 501st" panel on saber guild stage at 1pm might be more than interesting for you! Attention! The 501st group photo has been moved to Saturday, May 28th, 1pm. Also don't miss the 501st Legion's 25th anniversary panel, saturday 3pm - right before our detachment group photo at 4pm! We close on saturday evening with a swag trade event for all club members at the marriott ball room, 8pm. You can find the Legion's Celebration main index thread with many more mesmerizing events alongside Star Wars Celebration on the legion forums here With Unquestioned Loyalty Danny Lauber TK55550 "Ripper_L" PRO Editor At Large Currently (as of 16th May 2022 ) there are 32,691 approved costumes in the legion, out of these under FISD there are 5.717 which is 17.49% of all approved 501st costumes. This percentage has been dropping for the last few years but this is the first time it has dropped under 18%, the larger the legion costume totals grows the smaller amount of TK's there are. Info can be found in the legion holocron INFORMATION & AWARD PROGRAMS For a full list of FISD awards head here Are you new to the FISD and wondering what the heck all those abbreviations and strange sounding terms mean? To help you @justjoseph63 has started a list of the most commonly used ones that will give you some insight. If you have ANY questions about a particular term that is not listed or suggestions for new ones please contact Joseph. You can find the list here Pre Approval Forum allows future Troopers the opportunity to submit photos of their completed build to be reviewed by the Staff, Imperial Attaches and others in preparation for forwarding it to their GML for approval. Any and all advice/suggestions given will be specific, constructive, helpful and respectful. Please note that this program will NOT take the place of your local GML, as Detachments are not chartered for costume approval and can not override a GMLs decision, but is instead a peer review program designed to help you look your best and offer guidance and positive feedback. For more information on this program, please visit the link here Don't forget to visit our 3D section when next surfing the FISD forums, there is plenty of useful information to potentially help you on your next TK adventure. You might be feeling may generous and share with our community a new TK related 3D file and maybe win yourself a 3D contributors award so check out the details below and be part of the in house 3D community. Here is a link to the FISD 3D Contributor program. Don't forget to create a troop log here on FISD and get awarded for your adventures The list of accomplished troopers keeps growing, so get on board and register your troops today Simply start (or update!) your troop log, keep the running total in the title, and post (at least!) a date and name for the official 501st event where you wore your TK! Once you've hit a milestone count, go over to the "Field Exercise Awards -- Post your milestones here" thread to request your profile be updated! Simple, right? Award Recipients April - May TK66744 "Morgi" Luca - TK15028 "David G" David - TK89400 "revlimiter" Adam - TK15028 "David G" David - TK29118 "sharkbait" Rebecca - Are you an approved TK that spends more time on the boards than the average Trooper? Do you enjoy using your knowledge to help out future and existing Troopers? If so, we would like to invite you to join the Imperial Attaché program! Members of the I.A. team are chosen to help out not only those here on the boards, but on a local level as well. Our aim is to have at least one in each and every Garrison, Squad and Outpost in the entire legion to be the eyes and ears of the FISD on a local level. For a complete list of Imperial Attaches, go here Some of the benefits: Access to exclusive Attaché merch., including patches, IA patch , IA Rocker For a complete list of Imperial Attaches, go here You may also be in the running for an Imperial Attaché Award Imperial Attaché Award for those attaché's who have gone above and beyond [minimum 1 year of service]. You can find a list of prior recipients here Want to setup a "Fire Team? the Fire Team program is completely optional, and is intended to help form a common identity and spirit of camaraderie among 501st Legion Stormtroopers in the same geographic area/garrison that troop together. Fire Teams are not officially recognized by the 501st Legion nor the FISD, although they will be able to access a Fire Team sub-forum on the detachment website. You can find more information here So what exactly are and levels? These programs were designed for those who choose to take their armor above and beyond the minimum requirements for basic 501st Legion approval. It gives you the chance to show a level of dedication and pride that takes your armor closer to being as "screen accurate" as possible, without as much extra work as you may realize! You can find more information on the programs here ASK THE D.O.s For those of you who have a particular issue (or issues) before or after submitting for Expert Infantry / Centurion level approval, in order to get you an answer faster you can now privately contact the entire Deployment Officer team at one time! Questions about fitting, repairs, CRL standards/requirements or anything pertaining to reaching Levels 2 and 3 are not only welcomed, but encouraged. Keep in mind that no question is too small, and that your queries will only be seen by the D.O. Staff. We are here to help in any way we can, so please feel free to send us a message by clicking on this link: @Deployment Officer Team and we will get back to you A.S.A.P.! This area lists all those who have gone above and beyond basic approval toward screen accuracy and obtained EIB or Centurion or both. FOR April - May the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment would like to congratulate the following. Expert Infantry Badge Award: Mario "TKSpartan" TK48117 EIB TFA 2nd Award GREAT job on your approval, now on to Level 3! Request your free EIB certificate here You can find a list of multiple award recipients here --------------------------------------------------------------- Centurion Badge Award: Ben "benthemonkey" TK60421 Centurion 514 Outstanding job on reaching Centurion, Troopers! Request your free Centurion certificate here You can find a list of multiple award recipients here If you see any of these Troopers around your Garrison or Squad, be sure to congratulate them! Newsletter Editor If anyone has any content for the newsletter please contact me via PM For anyone interested in having a look through any of the older newsletter they have now been moved to the newsletter archive sub forum which you can find Here With Unquestioned Loyalty Glen "Q" Rhodes TK-85421 "gmrhodes13" PRO Newsletter Social Media Hey hey amazing siblings of White and Chrome!Your Friendly neighbourhood IG PR lady here! WOW. Where has May gone? It’s craziness! Not much to report in. Hoping you are all well and building away madly.May saw the goodbye of my FB fellow PR mate Rat. It will be odd for certain to not have him to bounce ideas off of. You will be greatly missed sir.Justin, has come on board, and we shall see what we can do for you all! Please join me in welcoming him to our team!We shall be seeing you all in just mere days! It’s surreal really…. After postponing and delays, years!!!! Celebration somehow snuck up on us! For all those attending, you WILL see me there. I will not be in White or Chrome Armor, but I will be there with camera in hand, snapping photos of as many of you as I can. Running about in my racing shirts. If you see me there, shout out! I’d love to visit with you and check in in person! Looking forward to seeing all there at our meet up, and FISD photo. At the 501 tables and photo booths. Have an amazing time if you’re going, and those of us not going, be sure to send in posts of your troops out and about as well! We always want to hear about the magic you are creating, and share it with the world. With Unquestioned Loyalty Teresa Nuthall TK41307 "Soulart" PRO Social Media Staff List 2022 -2023 Detachment Leader (DL): Andrew Franke (Sly11) TK11469 Executive Officer (DXO): Steven Sheades (starsaber25) TK-10466 Chief Deployment Officer (DCA): Joseph Pedigo (justjoseph63) TK-10963 Deployment Officer: (DCA): Mario E RT (TKSpartan) TK-48117 Deployment Officer: (DCA): Jose Maria Sanchez (Chemi) TK-30173 Provost Marshal (DCOG): Dan Branton (CableGuy) TK-42911 Provost Marshal (DCOG): Tim Waychoff (Dark CMF) Provost Marshal (DCOG): Chris Pearson (themaninthesuitcase) TK-10911 Merchandise and Branding (DMBO) James Silvius (jsilvius) TK- 12953 Personnel Officer (DPER): AC (Novatie) TK-5597 Fire Team Relations (DPRO): Mark Ryner (Captsafe66) TK-4584 Content Editor At Large (DPRO): Christoph (Danny) Lauber (Ripper_L) TK-55550 Content Editor Support (DPRO): Tony Jobe (ukswrath) TK-10116 Content Editor Awards (DPRO): This will be handled by the XO Newsletter Publisher (DPRO): Glen Rhodes (gmrhodes13) TK-85421 HOF Director (DPRO): Aaron (Bronx) Gibson (Pyrates) TK-99725 Attaché Ambassador (DPRO) Frank Peranteau (Frank75139) TK-75139 Social Media Relations (DPRO): Teresa Nuthall (Soulart) TK-41307 Social Media Relations (DPRO): Justin Reed (TheRascalKing) TK 61490 Systems Administrator (DWM): Eric Brager (Darth Aloha) TK-9674 Systems Administrator (DWM): Mathias (Locitus) TK-2959 Detachment Founder (DF): Paul (Daetrin) TK-8020 Trading Cards Content Support (IPM): Eric Ho (Hoda) TK 77520 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Brien Edick (Harbinger) TK 92802 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Jeff Salt (wingnut) TK 50297 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Richard Tibbitts (CallMeMrTibbles) TK 46116 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Adam Wolf (revlimiter) TK 89400 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Daniel Melin (TheSwede) TK 99665 Imperial Propaganda Machine (IPM): Jim Ferrell (Rat) TK-95970 Facebook: www.facebook.com/whitearmor Facebook Group: 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment (FISD) Official Twitter: www.twitter.com/FISD501st or @FISD501st Instagram: www.instagram.com/fisd501st On behalf of the 1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment Command Staff and the Imperial Propaganda Department

Wow, I had no idea! How did I get into the Hall of Fame? What an honor! Thank you FISD!

I got 2nd place in Azzatru's Top 5 mods of the week. I made sure in the comments to again remind people of the great guys here that provided the helmet.

Multiple EIB Award Recipients For those unaware it is possible to achieve extra awards at Expert Infantry for each additional version costume you have approved, additional awards are not issued with another Expert Infantry number (you are only issued 1 Expert Infantry number) but you will see a star above the award on your profile and the thread title will show [APPROVED] 2nd, [APPROVED] 3rd, [APPROVED] 4th and so on. Example of thread titles note EIB issued number shown in green below. Additional Expert Infantry award examples Expert Infantry Badge (2nd Award) Expert Infantry Badge (3rd Award) Expert Infantry Badge (5th Award) Expert Infantry Badge (6th Award) (and so on) NOTE If you are approved with a "2nd Version" of a particular costume that you are already approved with you do not receive an additional award, there is only 1 award issued for each costume version ie: only 1 x Hero, 1 x Stunt, 1 x HWT, 1 x ESB, 1 x TFA and so on. If you have a second/additional version costume approved you will see "2nd Version" and [APPROVED] added to the thread title, no additional profile stars (more info on profile awards here) Below is a full list of additional EIB award recipients: There are a total of 76 recipients of multiple EIB awards, congratulations to you all 2nd EIB Award Recipients - 60 Dan "R2Dan" TK8527 Carsten "Sidius" TK11672 Derek "DZFireMedic" TK83125 Luis "Rietzer" TK31513 Daniel "Ensi" TK61514 Dennis "NINJAMOVE" TK16112 Christopher "Chewy" TK66402 Rowan "zebedee" TK12111 Jonathan "JLight" TK32627 Randy "magni" TK16127 Andreas "Coil" TK24269 Danny "Ripper_L" TK55550 Kai "TK Goatee" TK71715 Jim "Engineering trooper" TK12638 Robert "RLJ2515" TK10596 Sarah "Alay" TK20466 Mark "humperdingle" TK22700 Dave "PBTrooper" TK10737 Shawn "CrookKnight" TK10204 Ruben "Crusader_6" TK34281 Chris "PhoenixTrooper" TK80806 Andrew "fuumantroop" TK24218 Steve "starsaber25" TK19466 Mike "TK1636" TK1636 Michael "TK-Sharp" TK12169 Joey "vecspeed12" TK9512 Partick "Front-a-Little" TK7961 Carey "C HERM" TK941 Nick "ZeroCool" TK20882 Manny "Tehcaveman" TK10912 Anthony "Redforce" TK10666 Andy "HeloTrooper" TK5224 Hans "Sparrow J" TK5224 BJ "bjsavage7" TK5955 Charles "Clamps" TK25267 T.J. "Hunterhwt" TK7944 Mark "captsafe66" TK4584 Darren "SandFlea" Tk7435 Matt "out0fstep" TK9328 Laurent "Mini Trooper" TK3182 Lou "Darth Voorhees" TK6908 Daniel "DarthChridan" TK7987 Christian "v7sg" TK9539 Vern "TK bondservnt" TK2392 Paul "Daetrin" TK8020 Rich "Rich330" TK6042 Allan "Trooper Q2" TK3066 Brain "tkrestonva" TK2918 Stefan "Turrican" TK1355 Terry "Terry19D" TK2055 Chris "TK-5069" TK5069 Ken "TK88667" TK88667 Jacob "Pistolsheets" TK86267 Jonatan "Nairy" TK23592 Adam "revilimiter" TK89400 Aizenoso "Aizenoso" TK14292 Tim "TrickyT81" TK24881 Dan "Kaiserinthehood" TK80419 Angie "Stardust665" TK87665 3rd EIB Award Recipients - 8 Joseph "justjoseph63" TK10963 Tony "ukswrath" TK10116 Charles 'Templar726" TK72627 Juan "BananoPower22" TK4326 Daniel "Debater2nd" TK2618 Jason "TK-J" TK4625 Thayne "ThayNerd" TK5401 Brett "Cleantrooper" TK9593 4th EIB Award Recipients - 3 Arthur "giskard8" TK39093 Daniel "TheSwede" TK99665 Frank "rhapsodyredd99" RK11038 5th EIB Award Recipient - 0 - - - - - - 6th EIB Award Recipient - 0 - 7th EIB Award Recipient - 3 Todd "Toddo" TK6647 Ardeshir "equuspolo" TK42128 Justin "TheRascalKing" TK61490 8th EIB Award Recipient - 0 - - - - - 9th EIB Award Recipient - 0 - - - - - 10th EIB Award Recipient - 1 Glen "gmrhodes13" TK85421 Multiple EIB recipients in the Expert Infantry Honor Gallery After some searching I found in the past honoring multiple EIB recipients was done by combining all of their approved EIB costumes into a single animated GIF, as shown below. We will continue with this layout which is a work in progress, some of you may have noticed this has now been implemented. Any questions please read through this thread or reach out to your Detachment Officers Background Variants ANH Stunt ANH Hero ESB ROTJ Rogue One HWT Deathtrooper TKC / INC / Shock TFA TLJ Former Detachment Leaders Detachment Founder

On to the armor bin. I wrote up a bit more about this one: Building the Armor Bin: High-level tips on this bin: - There is such a thing as TOO MANY GREEBLIES. Greeblies -those little found objects and things that make a thing look like it has some utilitarian function of some kind. If you cover every spot, it loses something. Star Wars objects look best with areas of flat, and then areas of detail, with asymmetry being key. - I used a lot of fasteners, and getting them one at a time at the hardware store can get expensive. There are almost no Phillips style fasteners in Star Wars, so I needed a non-standard bolt. I found a good kit of small nuts and hex hole bolts that were all M3 size but in many different lengths. This allowed me to not only know every hole was my 1/8" bit but also I could find the perfect length of bolt, to minimize the protruding end INSIDE the bin. I also capped every bolt with a small cap, glued on with E6000, or hot glue on my vents. I really want to avoid any chance of scratching the glossy white armor. - For the wiring, test it all first before mounting, and use quick-connect wire connectors so you can assemble it all and test it, and then take it apart, run them through holes, and hook it all back up. Run any switches to the outside of the bin, so you can roll up to a troop, and then turn them on when people will see them, without having to open it up and do some switches every time (save battery power, and the buttons add to the look). - Roughen with sandpaper all parts before gluing. But also, all greeblies and knobs are also bolted on. I have seen glue fail so many times, and on a bin that gets knocked about, everything should be secured with a bolt if possible. - Because things get stacked on a bin, any greeblies on the lid should be secure, and tough, and not go above the top edge so that things could rest on top of it. The build: It started as a Husky 45 gallon tote. On my very first bin years ago, so much of the spray paint chipped off in that first year. It was like the plastic was resisting the paint. Later as I was washing off some cast parts to prep them for painting, it hit me. Like ALL CAST PLASTIC, bins have a mold-releaser spray residue on them when they come out of the factory. So a super important part of my bin painting process is the wash all parts with warm soapy water before starting. I did this one in the shower (with dish soap), but my bigger husky bin I washed in the driveway, like a car wash. Painting the bin was straight-forward, a few coats of primer, letting it cure for more than a day. So many painting issues, especially in winter, come from not letting the primer fully cure. Then some coats of white glossy paint. I usually do the weathering before the clear coat, but after applying some vinyl decals, in a few spots they started peeling off the paint. Not everywhere, but enough that I didn't want to risk more. I painted them back to white, and then did a satin clear coat to help the paint all stay. I used satin because gloss is really hard to paint weathering on, it has no "tooth", so I did a gloss coat after the weathering. Next I wanted to try and do the light panel thing, so I did that first. I go over it more in my previous posts, but the basic idea is I created a matte black decal using my new vinyl cutter, and applied it to a rectangle of translucent plastic. To get the red, I used a square of 3M self-adhesive brake light repair film behind it. You have to have some black area to cover the overlap, as the red light will "bleed" out a little, and you want to cover that transition. The light is a battery dimmable night-light thing with batteries and two LED strips. I opened it up, took a red wire from the batteries, and soldered in a quick release cord, and soldered the other end to a toggle switch. That way I could cover the dimmer switch (it's in the center) and leave it "on" but the switch is now on the outside of the bin controlling it. I mounted it to an aluminum bar to keep it about 5 mm away from the plastic, so that the light diffused enough to make a more even panel. For the frame, I had been saving a few of these diaper wipe lids that had a cool shape. I trimmed off the lid piece, and the part you see is the bottom, where it has a flat area they glued to the package. For the two small lights, I found these great 8mm indicator lights, basically a 5mm LED light with a metal mount around it, and pre-wired with resistors. I wired them in parallel to the 9v battery and with a toggle switch. After looking at the specs, I figured out the hole size, and had these custom laser-cut aluminum hex plates (with my 1/8" holes) to give them a cooler mount. Their 9v battery case is velcroed into the corner for easy removal to change the batteries. I used a lot of the quick-connect wire connectors to do my circuits, because there were a lot of parts that had to go through the walls of the case, and those allow you to do all of your soldering on a table, and assemble it, rather than try and solder in the case. All of these wires could get smashed and caught, so I found a white two-piece pencil case at a dollar store that was the right size, and made a cover for all of the wiring, held on with acorn nuts and wing nuts so I could remove it without tools to change the batteries. For the vents, I had been looking for years for good small vents for Star Wars projects, and this time, I realized I could just use an on-demand metal cutter site (I used SendCutSend) that I used on another project to cut some custom vents. I made the shapes in Adobe Illustrator like I used for the viny decals, and they came out really good. They have the same 1/8" hole that my bolts all use, and I backed them by the denser Phifertex Plus mesh, glued on the inside with a hot glue gun (and I hot glued over the bolt ends at the same time, so that is another bolt protection solution). I added some greeblies from @Jettsonable which were painted with a sort of hammered finish spray (his last one came as a clean print), so I used filler primer to even it out, and then painted them white. I ended up glueing, but also adding two bolts to them to ensure they stayed put. Other greeblies were some old stereo knobs from a random lot I got from Ebay. Finally, for the trooper look, I had an extra belt piece that I glued to the top with white E6000 (and also bolted, the top flexes a lot). Vinyl decals finished it off. One area where the vinyl peeled off the paint on the lid, I had to cut a new rectangle of ABS, and glue/bolt it on, and apply new lettering (the area with "FISD" and "Imperial property" in Aurebesh). The reason I use the white paintable E6000 is because the seep out spots can be painted with the weathering. For weathering, I did my usual technique of painting with mostly black acrylic, wiping off with a rag, painting in, wiping off with a wet rag, back and forth a few times, until it looks right. Lots of gunk under the edge of the rim where all of those chambers are hard to clean, and less in the open areas. Grime near buttons where fingers touch. Mud spray from the wheels up into their cutouts. Just do it with intention and though for HOW it got dirty. Finally, a glossy clear coat, being sure to tape over all screens, lights, knobs, vents, and buttons to keep the spray from affecting those areas. All in all, I love how it came out, and I had few setbacks. I can't wait to roll up to a troop with this! Parts: Husky 45 Gallon (170.3 L) Latch and Stack Tote with Wheels Battery powered dimmable night light panel. 3M High-Strength Red Lens Repair Film Diaper wipes lid piece (Aiden & Anais, no longer made, but others are similar) M3 hex bolt set white dollar store two-piece pencil case custom Laser Cut aluminum vents Phifertex Plus black mesh Hot Glue white paintable E6000 8mm indicator lights 9v battery case velcro 1/2" wide aluminum bar (1/8") Round Toggle Switches Rustoleum white primer Rustoleum Glossy white spray paint Rustoleum satin clear coat Rustoleum Gloss clear coat Liquitex Basics Acrylic black and raw umber paint Antique stereo knobs from Ebay custom vinyl lettering decals stormtrooper belt plate I made this diagram for someone following my build. My LEDs came pre-resistored, but if yours aren't, you will need to use an Ohm's Law Calculator to determine the different resistors (white and red use different volts). I hope I didn't forget anything, but I am open to answer questions! I look forward to more people making in-universe transport cases!

I have had a few people in my Garrison copy this idea so I thought I would post it here for FISD members too Do you have an issue with keeping TK shins in place? More specifically stopping the shin armor from moving up and above your boots? I know I did! When I had this problem I investigated a few different options, I first tried the hook velcro on boot & loop velcro on inner shin combo, whilst this did help I found that walking up and down stairs a couple of times was enough for it to come apart. So I've improved on this with a "stirrup" setup.. The following setup has been tested with many troops (and stairs!) and I have had no issues with riding or twisting Here is what I did... I made stirrups for each leg using a length of 1inch wide high density elastic, this was glued and stitched to a 50mm x 50mm square of hook velcro. Then I glued and stitched a 50mm x 50mm square of loop velcro to a piece of nylon strapping the same size. Then glued this into the front of each shin just above the top of the boot line. When attached it looks like this This way you can have a "stirrup" setup but you can also put your boots on first Then attach the velcro before closing your shins as normal The elastic allows for plenty of movement and pulls the shin back into place if it rides up Hope this helps someone