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On asking the other DL's, neither ACD or Pathfinders are interested in the Tread Speeder Driver particularly. The important factor we need to make a new costume CRL is someone willing to make the costume and we create the CRL from and during that process. As to the F-11D and Electrodprod, yes indeed we need to look at these. The costume CRL based on everything we have discussed and seen would be virtually identical to the TLJ CRL with he addition of upgraded weaponry. Otherwise we create a caveat for the TLJ to represent TroS if its decided only weapons are the difference. Either way yes we need to action it.

The EIB gold one? It is one of the most beautiful coins ever made. One of the favorites in my collection

Hi all, Whilst recently helping a trooper with his build I noticed a discrepancy with the below Billgram. Many troopers follow this guide and leave approx 20mm between the main plastic ammo belt and the first holster fixing. As below, I believe that the reference images from the movie troopers confirms that this should be more like 40mm. I would suggest that we suggest this approx distance for any future builds. Please sticky if deemed appropriate. Best wishes Dan

Was able to acquire an Anovos set and, since there's no way to replace SNAFUs, am a little bit nervous with this build. Manbehindthemask is currently assisting with this build and is doing a lot of the heavy-lifting. Also, as stated in my welcome post, I am 6'1" and my armor is designed for up to 6'... a little nervous about undertaking this project so the help is much needed. I've spent way too much money on an ANH and a RO Vader builds so, if I try to spend a lot on this one, my wife will probably leave me. Since I've done almost no research at this point, my list is short: Armor : Anovos Boots : Caboots Right now, Ryan and I are trimming the armor to size and I ordered my boots from Caboots because they're the ones that made my Vader boots and they are awesome - I have problems with my feet and standing for long periods... I am able to troop in my Vader boots without pain and without my prescribed insoles. Other than that, I'll add to my list as I go along. Thanks for reading and for any help or suggestions you have for me.

Hola Llorenç,, ¡¡¡ Bienvenido a nuestro destacamento !!! Te mando un PM para que pueda ayudarte en todo el proceso tanto de compra como de montaje de la armadura y que puedas montarla al máximo nivel de screen accurate que es el nivel Centurion. Un saludo

Thanks for the clarification, saw some photos online where you could clearly see them, kinda expected it wouldn’t meet centurion standard which I’m trying for. I’ll add, read up on abs paste, to my ever increasing too do list. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Magic eraser THEN Novus. The magic eraser will take it off but leave your armor dull, since it's basically just a very fine abrasive. Hence the Novus polish to bring the luster back. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Nice work, in regards to shims if I'm understanding right, any shims should not be seen ie: fill any gaps with ABS paste, sand and polish.

Thanks to everyone for answering the post, I was expecting support but not so many nor so quickly! I'll be checking my local garrison, which I suppose is the Spanish one, and will continue resarching through the forums, thank you ver much to all of you!!

Welcome storm

Excellent post Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Glad to have you here on the FISD, sir! I assure you that you have come to the right place to learn all there is to know about purchasing and building armor. Lots of fine folks here willing and ready to offer advice and assist you every step of the way on your journey to becoming a Stormtrooper! As others have mentioned here, research is the key, but always feel free to ask any and all questions you may have. We are here to help!

It's OK to have a small gap if you can't get them perfectly aligned, as the cover strips will cover any imperfections. The sanding that Glen mentioned is critical, though. Just try to make sure that the ridges (yellow lines) run as parallel with the cover strip edges as possible. You will need to trim down the V shaped point on the upper piece, otherwise this will seriously poke into your arm. (Pic 1). If it were me, I would trim down as seen in the second photo. You don't want any angles that are too sharp. Reference images of screen used armor.

Just a note, JRS has "Rogue One" and "Solo" TIE Pilot rolled into a single CRL.

Hello and welcome to the FISD. Something I often recommend, is to get in contact with your local Garrison. You currently have no location info in your profile, but if you let us know where you are living, we can help. Meeting these people will help you in so many ways and seeing armors of different makers in person, really trains your eyes for the small variations and details.

Rather than virtually identical, 100% identical. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nice work trooper, just a couple of things you may need to address. Remove a little paint from the teeth area, you have just couple of areas they appear to go onto the gums Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area Also not sure if your shins are close all the way at the back but you do have a gap at the top on the ridges perhaps if they are closed add some strips of abs behind, compare with the CRL reference Good luck with approval trooper

Depends on the armor, you'll find if you wrap painters tape around quite tightly they will pull together. I use a combination of clamps, magnets and tape for assembly. For getting your trim lines nice and straight after cutting a long block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around can help. Also scuff the surfaces that will be glued with some sandpaper, gives the E6000 something to grip too, any excess glue you can usually rub off with your thumb once dried.

Thank you very much for the answer, I'll be checking the different suppliers

Fantastic news, congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

This is one of those way outdated images which are still referenced, hopefully when the How To sections get a good going through some of the basic info and images can be updated. I know when I started I used Billhags images a lot but looking back they are pretty outdated with some details compared to what we know now.

Welcome aboard! you took the right path by joining here Mark (A)

Welcome aboard, Llorenç. You’ve come to the home of the Imperial Stormtrooper. :-) Personally, I would suggest you purchase your armour, when you are ready, in one go. If you purchase in various goes, you run the risk of the plastic being different shades of white. Not a good look. Trust me, it’ll be worth the wait. Regarding suppliers, this is a really good read; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Take a look at these suppliers and their various price points. Then, compare pictures of what they are offering against real stormtroopers one the movies. You’ll then be able to choose the best looking kit for your budget. Before you spend any of your hard earned money, I’d recommend you post your thoughts here. We have a lot of experienced members that might be able to guide you to, or away from, certain suppliers etc. Any other questions, don’t hesitate to ask. :-) Best wishes Dan/CableGuy

Great to hear you’re joining the trooping ranks. :-) My $2; any kit you are considering, compare it directly with screen shots from the movie. Use a free app like “Live Collage” and put your pictures side by side. Comparing directly to the source material will show you which one meets your expectations of accuracy. Here’s an example of a notoriously inaccurate kit vs original (the LFL promo trooper*). Playing spot the difference directly like this really helps to gauge the quality of the moulds, the proportions of the pieces, the overall appearance etc. *this uses a hero helmet: picture for armour comparison only. Best of luck with your decision, Dan

Congrats Andrew!!!

Great new mate, congratulations and welcome to the Legion.!!!

With that link, i can enter, thanks Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

@Sn4k3 "standard" cover strip sizes are: arms - 15mm Thighs and front of shins - 20mm back of shins - 25mm of course, depending on the size of you, your arms, and your legs, these widths can be altered proportionally for your body size. Some people can get away with (or have no choice) to make the coverstrips larger for correct sizing. The key is to keep the relative widths proportional as best you can. Hope that helps.

Well TJ_Fem aka TK13570 has surpassed 50 troops its time for some refurb and repair which I will document in the next few posts will hopefully highlight any weak points that can be strengthened to start with during a build. Also taken a short video clip of each armour part which you can find here https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0Xls082QKUU9o5LOTqmkCQ Hope this helps some of you out [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Approval came down today! First field test this Saturday! Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

All done! My left thigh is a tad high in the pictures, but its on an adjustable strap system so easily taken care of. Moving around in it is a huge difference than my ANH TK. Inalso tried on my pack and it sits better, and with the rubber straps, it helps keep the back pack straps from sliding off to the side and getting vaught under the shoulder bell. The extended/larger back also helps alleviate the weight by pushing the pack into a better vertical position. Overall I learned a lot of new things with this build. My only complaint is the belt. The all plastic construction is a pain to deal with, and I hate the notches at the top of the belt. Because of the softer details of the abs pull and how far back the bottom lip sits, it was difficult construction wise to get them in as well as I could. Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

So all major construction finally done! I hate the R1 belt btw. Have to glue on 3 more of the belt face boxes. Going to trim the top of the thighs just a bit to get them to sit a little better and improve movement. I had a hard time getting the thighs to close because I couldnt quite reach. Aloso going to improve the shoulder strap connections and add obe or two elastic straps from the ab to the inside if the chest to keep it from pulling up. All in all I think Im pretty much done. Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk

I'd suggest bringing up your ab section first and then check again what room if any there is. When you compare to this there's probably half the distance from ab plate to chest compared to yours. Some have very minimal gap between, but most appear to have issues with the cod hitting thighs

Ok...first almost full suit up. Need suggestions/advice! The cod hits the top of the thighs. Looks like I need to trim cod more? Trim cod and inner thigh? Looks like i have to bring torso up a bit more too? Bring chest down a bit also??arms fit good, just need to put cover strips on biceps. Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

And heres a horrible selfie. The biceps are not connected to the bells yet so it all looks wonky and my chest looks like it needs to come down a little. But first half test fit. Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

Got the shoulder bells trimmed and edges sanded, but didn't work on the connectors yet. Did do just a bit of cosmetic work to the hand plates by cutting the front slots in, then backing them with scrap abs. Gloves are Endor Finders. Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

Had to trim down the sides of the midsection so it doesn't show over the chest/back connectors. I didn't glue on my connecters in case I have to break down the armor for packing/repairs/etc. So my side connectors attach via snaps. Next is getting the shoulder area and bells finished. Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

Nearly complete with the torso. Had to make my own side connect peices so it would sit and fit properly. These are connected to the inside of the chest and back via snaps, 3 snaps on the chest for each side, and 4 snaps on the back. I glued on my ab details and still need to paint the right side buttons. Also cut strips of abs and painted them gloss black, with a few layers of protective clearcoat. The butt plate and codplate are connected to snaps at the end of strips of black elastic. Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

So. The Ab/kindney is one peice it a split up the back center. So, I used the small center peice and attached snaps so it snaps to the inside of the kidney plate, and then stuck velcro to that, and then the trauma plate just attaches to that with velcro and covers all that up. Sent from my SM-T597P using Tapatalk

Got my resin parts outside of the coverstrips cleaned up. Decided to do some work on the thermal detonator cover. If you are getting an 850 kit, you have to cut out the center of the oval part or it will not sit flush. I cut it out, and Im going to cover the hole on the inside with a scrap peice of abs. I also sanded the top of the oval to flatten it, and filed some groves on the top and bottom so it looks a little more detailed like the R1 det. I also cut out the hole at the end of the buttons. Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk

Starting with cleaning up and smoothing out the resin parts. Casts were good only a few minor bubbles but nothing extreme. Just need to sand down the 3d print lines on the casts. Some of the chsnnels on the cover strips need a bit of cleaning up, but nothing a set of needle files will take care of. Going to hit the sander later to clean up the backs and get them even. Sent from my LG-Q710AL using Tapatalk

Thank you, everyone! (Right on, Comrade Dave!) Just an update, I did have another one of the mounts pop off mid troop, but when I got home, I just put a dab of CA glue to fix it. It ain't going anywhere now! Still one of my best ideas to date, and I'm glad I could provide my fellow troopers with another idea.

PROGRAM OVERVIEW Expert Infantryman status is not required for members of this detachment. It should be viewed as an optional set of requirements for those who wish to take the accuracy of their costumes to the next level, and be recognized accordingly. We're a costuming club - think of it as an award for costuming excellence and you get the picture. The requirements will not replace or supersede 501st standards, but only serve as an inspiration for the level of accuracy that can be achieved. The standards are meant to be high but achievable, and any changes to the standards will need to be approved by a majority vote of this detachment. REQUIREMENTS OVERVIEW Because the stormtroopers vary in details between each movie, Stormtrooper Detachment EIB (Expert Infantryman Badge) Requirements are broken down to include base Requirements that every stormtrooper must attain, plus movie-specific Requirements. This allows for a higher level of accuracy than can be achieved through a single standard. Troopers achieving this distinction will be listed on the Expert Infantrymen page. RELATION TO THE 501st Legion Costume Reference Library (CRL) Standards Ideally the 501st CRL would capture the EIB requirements in the "SHOULD HAVE" sections of the relevant CRL entry. However until the CRL's are 100% confirmed, we'll continue to break them out in their own area. BASE REQUIREMENTS (ALL) Base Requirements are applicable to anyone wanting to achieve EIB status in the FISD. They cover the basic costume and in essence cover what is required for Legion Requirements. NOTE: On 21-Mar-08 FISD has ratified that FX helmets are no longer acceptable for Expert Infantryman qualification. ANH REQUIREMENTS (CANON) In addition to complying with all base Requirements, stormtroopers wishing to attain ANH Expert Infantryman status must also complete the ANH Requirements. Unlike ESB and ROTJ, there are two different helmet options: the Hero and Stunt. Troopers must choose one or the other. Lastly, troopers may choose among several different options, such as replacing the thermal detonator with a combination of grappling hook and comlink. ESB REQUIREMENTS (CANON) In addition to complying with all base Requirements, stormtroopers wishing to attain ESB Expert Infantryman status must also complete the ESB Requirements. ESB Requirements are very similar to ANH but with some small differences, notably in the handplates, helmet, and holster / blaster. ROTJ REQUIREMENTS (CANON) In addition to complying with all base Requirements, stormtroopers wishing to attain ROTJ Expert Infantryman status must also complete ROTJ Requirements. ROTJ Requirements are quite a bit different from ANH and ESB as they entail numerous changes to the armor as well as helmet. HEAVY WEAPONS TROOPER (HWT) REQUIREMENTS (EU) Heavy Weapon Trooper (HWT) Requirements In addition to complying with all ANH Requirements, stormtroopers wishing to attain HWT Expert Infantryman status must also complete Heavy Weapons Trooper Requirements. Essentially a HWT is an ANH trooper with accessories: pack, pauldron, ammo pouches and of course a large weapon (BFG). They can be clean or have minor weathering. STORMTROOPER COMMANDER (TKC) REQUIREMENTS (EU) In addition to complying with all ANH Requirements, stormtroopers wishing to attain TFU (The Force Unleashed) Stormtrooper Commander Expert Infantryman status must also complete TFU Stormtrooper Commander Requirements. Essentially a TFU Stormtrooper Commander comes in two variations: 1. An ROTJ trooper but with the following ANH details: split butt plate, trapezoid hand plates, left side mounted holster, ANH Stunt helmet. 2. An ANH Stunt trooper with paint and scuffs. This is based on the action figures. Both of these must be painted in accordance with established visual references.