Sn4k3

Careful with the shins, they are easy to mix up and end up putting together the 2 outer on one leg and the 2 inner on the other leg, carful with that, and something else, they are not equal, i mean, when trimming and measuring you will realize that the 2 outer halfs are very slightly different and the 2 inner halves are also a slightly different Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

This is a very late response but still, works for the newbies. The difference is the thickness of the leather, i think that a holster must not be made with leather less thick than 8oz, must be sturdy and not wobbly. If the leather turns out to be too rigid that is weird when wearing it or holstering the blaster, is always an option soften it with leather oils and conditioner. The leather can be shaped to the blaster contours using a heat gun, be careful when doing this. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Still looking for a holster? Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Ok... The ones i have now are too short, i think i can find longer ones. If i use pop rivets, do i need to use washer? Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Jmmm... I see, is a good idea, and what about where the strips join the holster? Should i use pop rivets?, Chicago screws?, Double cap rivets? Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Well guys, it happened that my neighbor had some thick leather laying around his home and he sold it to me, i managed to build a holster and i would love to share a couple o pictures with all you and have the privilege to receive some feedback. It does not have rivets or the snap, I'm not sure the size of those, can you help me with that? Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Somehow varies, and even more when intentionally we try to emulate a specific trooper. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

No helmet is exactly r6he same, all of them are, in a way, slightly different to put together, is strange, i dont know exactly why. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Yes, magnets are handy. I'm glad that things are working now how is supposed to be Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Hold the whole thing with magnets, n42 strength at least, and around 20mm wide and 5mm tall. I leave no return edge in the round areas of the sides of the helmet, that allows that round area to sit better against the sides of the faceplate. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Both ear caps are a pain. Always check screenshots from the movie and photos of the screen used helmets, those are the best references, keep in mind that there are many discrepancies among the helmets in the movie. But still it should give you a good idea of how a stromtrooper should look. Trim the edge, check with the helmet, doesn't fit?, File down carefully, and re check how does it fit the helmet, is tedious but is a good to prevent file down too much. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Keep calm bro, you have no idea how bad i screwed my build the fist time, (i had to buy a new shin) my advise, study a lot this threads and ask always if any doubt arises. In your case I would drill a new hole. Remember you can use pressure clamps or magnets to hold in position the two helmet pieces, before drilling make sure the pieces are positioned the way you want them to be. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Congratulations Rob, you did an amazing work Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Yes screws and bolts. Stiff is good, that's how it should be. Are your starting your build with the helmet? Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

Zinfer i agree with Gmrhodes13 The issue is that the faceplate wasn't tight enough at the moment of rivet the two pieces. Is not the end of the world, that is very fixable, And gmrhodes already gave you the solution. I can recommend the use of magnets to keep in place the dome and faceplate at the moment of riveting, and, i can also say that i don't use rivets to do that. Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk