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I was approved! Introducing TK11372 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi guys and girls here the new v3 E11 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Well its BBB day for the wife, she will be doing a WIP within her local garrison but as i am helping through out the build, thought i would post here as well so I/we can get additional feedback along the way. we managed to get hold of a old untouched KW kit which was marked #005 and helmet #006 and boots. whole thread will probably be pic heavy and will try and lay it out well due to experience from my build thanks for looking

TFA will be easier to build as the finish isn't mirrored but slightly dingy, and parts have been around for a couple years so more vendors and the kinks have been worked out for the most part.

Yes I have lost tapatalk notifications for here and the SLD. So I will start pinging some people.

Thanks Dan. No dice. Hummmm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was the first Bfa/DA Props Centurion TK number 54 and still wear the armour today

Ive got centurion cleared Bfa now DA props Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice looking armor trooper. Good luck!

It should be that the hole center is 10mm from the edge of the plastic. I'm sure you'll be fine with how you've got yours! My problem was that the top two holes were fine, but the bottom hole on the kidney was off. On the WTF kidney, it's got this odd flare part to it. It doesn't end in a straight line. It's difficult to explain, but for me, I've had problems getting the bottom hole on the kidney side properly set. In the pics of my kidney, my rivets seem to look okay, but I'm not happy with that bottom kidney one. As a result, I have removed the bottom rivet and am currently repairing the hole so I can move it a mm or two further away from the edge and a mm up. I'm totally OCD about these kind of things. If it's off by a mm, I will do it over and over again until it's perfect. Which is crazy because it will all be hidden by the belt!!!

I have roughed out the knees and cover bolsters, will be looking to use a snap fitting within the knee cap itself and bond the elastic strap to the inside of the thigh Right first go at placement and alignment of knee caps and cover bolsters ( all in postion with tape) Seems ok but feel the need to check a few more images to make sure I have a consistent positioning on both legs :|

You've done a good job! I'll see you soon with the rank Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 4 mediante Tapatalk

FELICIDADES Lio. Has hecho un buen trabajo. CONGRATULATIONS Lio. You've done a great job. Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 4 mediante Tapatalk

Nice work mate. Looking good. :-) And don’t worry about the little bits - you’ll be trooping with us soon and one of our lovely spotters will help out. [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hehe. Didn’t realise you were there at the weekend. Hope you had a good one. :-)

I might be late to the game here, and I totally understand where Tony is coming from on this, but I think this requirement might keep larger troopers from making EIB that otherwise could. While it is keeping with screen-accuracy, do we want to go that far? EDIT: This is what I get for responding before fully catching up. I see this has been addressed and the word "minimal" clarified. Sounds like a plan to me! Loving all the suggested changes so far.

Here it is lined up

good job my friend!!!

I see you broke out the band-aids. It is not truly a build unless you bleed for it.

Fantastic job bro. I will welcome you to the rank soon. Good luck!

Hey Suso my man ! Good luck amigo !

Always stir very well model paints, being a experienced model kit builder/painter humbrol paints are usually pretty accurate and should really have a satin finish. I used both but prefer Testors 1139 Semi Gloss Black to apply with a brush. Mark (AP)

Updated my original post with my current inventory of parts secured/ordered. All I should have left to do is assemble/fit the pre-trimmed kit from Anovos. Fingers crossed that it comes in soon.

well done.

Congrats and welcome to Expert Infantry!

Congrats on your EIB, Alfonso!

Wow - amazing images. Will be watching this thread for to see how this progresses.

Good luck! It looks great

Congratulations trooper

Good job trooper Enviado desde mi SM-G955F mediante Tapatalk

Thank you CableGuy and T-Jay for the replies on mounting the counter. Things have really fallen into place over the last week, so here's an update.... Weathering: So I'll have to start by saying that my blaster is pretty much done. I tried a few methods of weathering, but I have to say that the "dry brush" technique sure worked nice in my opinion. I started off with the scope. I had purchased a little tin of humbrol Antique Brass and after applying a coat of Tamiya primer to the scope, I thinned this paint down and used an airbrush to paint the scope antique brass. This was my first time using an airbrush. I purchased just the sprayer and attached it to an existing air compressor that I already had for power tools. But I have to say that I wasn't too pleased with the results. As with other builds I have read, the tone of brass just wasn't what I had imagined. It was quite orange in color. In the end I sprayed over the Humbrol brass in matte black and used the dry brush technique using Testors Gold to make it look like some brass was showing through. I think the Testors Gold was more the tone I was looking for. Then I continued with the rest of the blaster, everything Tamiya matte black and then I used Metallic Aluminum to very gently highlight the edges using a brush. I would dip the brush in the Humbrol metallic aluminum and then wipe the brush off on a paper towel until nothing was visible coming off the brush anymore. Then I would very gently touch the brush to an edge and find that there was still WAY too much paint on the brush and I'd wipe the brush off on paper towel a lot more and try again. Eventually I found I could nicely highlight edges and rough areas to make it look like the black paint was thin or coming off in areas. This was a lot of fun. I used the same Testors Gold on the back 1/2 of the counter. For the bolt and the shinier metal around the trigger assembly, I used the metallic aluminum as the base. Then I would paint gun metal in the crevasses and wipe it off right away with a rag. After that dried I would use matte black, again painted into the cracks and crevasses and wiped off. This made the more metallic parts look kind of dirty/oily/grimy and not so bright/shiny/clean. The handle/grip was painted gloss black with a gloss clear coat. My hopes is that the clear coat will protect a handle a bit more since this will probably be the most handled part of the gun. After this everything was assembled and some retouching on the weathering. I think the weathering is quite lite. I didn't do any heavy paint chips or larger areas of scratched off paint. Personally I like the more gentle weathering. Here's how I ended up attaching the counter and scope to the scope rail... And here are some pictures of the blaster. Sorry the quality of the photos aren't the best, but you get the idea.... I really want to thank everyone who helped out and tirelessly answered questions. T-Jay, CableGuy, DracoTrooper, BaneLives85, Wook1138 and everyone else who helped out. You guys are awesome and I couldn't have done it without you. If I take some better (outdoor) pics, I'll post those... Mark

Brackets on the butt plate return and bottom kidney today! Here's what the top of the butt plate looks like before I cleaned up the returns. I wanted to install the brackets first before reducing the return widths, just to make sure that the brackets would fit. Everything turned out well, so I slimmed down the returns on the butt plate and the kidney, and finished assembling the brackets together. Looks good to me! I decided to quickly install the twin snaps at the bottom of the butt plate to finish up (not much time to work on this today!). I'll get to removing all that velcro soon. I'll be installing the kidney split rivets next.

The flat parts on the sides should be trimmed down to accommodate your arm and no less. You definitely need enough to hold a cover strip in place. Honestly when I trimmed my forearms down for Centurion, I fit them as normal, then when they were all sized correctly and glued together, I put the wrist part down on the belt sander to get rid of the return edge. Only took a few seconds, and it gave me a nice clean edge.

Hopefully you will indeed be aiming for Centurion, Jeff. For basic and EI (level 2) requirements the return edge can be present on the wrist opening. For level 3 in can not, even in the "bump" area circled in red. (see photo below). If you are indeed aiming for level 3, I highly recommend removing them now. This is not only 100% screen accurate, but if you glue them to fit now and remove the edge later, the wrist opening will be too large. If you haven't seen it yet, I highly suggest checking out Tony's (ukswrath) build thread. Tons of great photos, details and information! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/

So what was the verdict on this ? He is selling 2 kits for $600 ...

Maybe its just me, but I don't like when people spam the site with the same post over and over. There was no need to put this on so many threads. Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

haha ANH stunt eyes cut out with butter knife?