gmrhodes13

I'd still suggest contacting RS again, your email may have been missed, the issue getting any old plastic is there are very big differences in the color between suppliers

Color is the issue so using any old plastic may not do the trick. I would try to contact RS props again they may have missed your email.

Hello and welcome aboard, a great starting point is the "Getting Started" section, also check out this very useful thread

Hello and welcome to the forums, you could add some photos in the "pre approval" area to get some feedback Also check out the CRL's (costume reference library) which contain the basic requirements for costume approval https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Photos needed, front, side, back, side and close up of helmet https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/

Cape is looking great

Correct it was and that was part of the issue, ANOVOS was supplying Galaxy's Edge while others had been on paid wait lists for years, hence the reason a class action was brought against ANOVOS. The price was the same as a prebuilt setup from ANOVOS but a kit was $800 then. There was also an issue that what people paid for which was TFA armor was not the armor ANOVOS was supplying to a very few, it was TLJ version and even then had some issues with accuracy and assembly changes. It would be interesting to see IF you could still purchase the armor from Galaxy's Edge as ANOVOS no longer has the Star Wars license.

Quite a lengthy thread on the RPF in regards to ANOVOS https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/anovos-picks-up-the-high-end-star-wars-costuming-license.212164/ Unfortunately ANOVOS started out strong but just couldn't deliver over quite a few years and kept many on wait lists, a lot of those are still without refunds. ANOVOS will continue to send anyone on their interest lists spam emails even when it has nothing to do with what you have clicked as interested, well until they loose other licenses As to if there is enough reference for a CRL that's entirely up to our DL (detachment leader) and the LMO's (legion membership officers)

Powering along. There are limitations to images and sizes on the forums, many of us use an online free image host like Imgur

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/9909-tip-using-velcro-closure-for-shins/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11419-howto-taking-a-rest-elstree-studio-style/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/6737-howto-make-a-grip-cross-hatch-cutter/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10735-mg-15-handle-templates/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10699-mg-15-barrel-templates/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/1257-howto-add-static-burst-for-around-1000/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/7639-howto-painting-basics-and-weathering/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/1572-howto-mod-drop-box-to-carry-items/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/4255-howto-weathering/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/4102-howto-battle-damage/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2976-tip-small-pad-mic-tutorial-less-feedback/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2553-howto-wire-up-a-romfx-to-take-aa-batteries/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/306-howto-heating-and-forming-plastc/, restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/1396-cushman-mg-34-tutorial/, restored by gmrhodes13 Tutorials, Tips and HOWTO's COMPLETED

TD = Thermal Detonator Should be rotated downwards so more of the panel can be seen

Congratulations and welcome to the Centurion ranks trooper

Nice work trooper, a few suggestions before the DO's get here: Shoulder bells could come in more at the top and also the sides. You could also bring your forearms up a little to reduce the gap at the elbows. Thigh and shin not quite aligned, coverstrips should be in the same position You could remove the large tab from the back of your shoulder straps. Right rear shin closure looks angular and not quite closed at the top Drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt section You have a black mark on the side of the ab section Corners on your plastic belt section are a little large, they should meet the edges of the belt, also looks like you removed a little too much material from the end of the plastic belt section Thigh ammo strip rivets are very close to the edge and high on the lower ridge Bottom side ab rivets aren't quite in line with each other You have a lot of excess paint on the ab buttons, you may want to remove some. Also you large ab plate should have material around the sides looks like you have over trimmed it. Black lines around your rear traps are a little thick, the inner lines area also a little long, top and bottom Counter on your blaster looks a little low Good luck with approval

That's a plus 1 here, my backpack is pre updated HWT requirements and is long overdue for an update.

Some use rivets, some use chicago screws (note below image is a Hero version ) I used split rivets, same as ab/kidney, thigh ammo strip approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter

Nice work trooper, there are a few suggestions you could address before the DO's get here. You will need to swap the holster to the other side for ESB Sniper plate is under your thigh, you may want to add some foam behind the shin so it pushes away from the thigh. Could you post close up photos of your thigh fronts, cover strips look a little off but can't quite see because of the low resolution of your photos. Belt should sit just under or touching the lower ab button Your left bicep has dropped below your shoulder bell. You have a gap between the backplate and kidney on the sides. Shoulder straps should be centered at the backplate. It's a little hard to see from your images as they are a bit small and not a great resolution but just checking your the back of your shins should close outside over inside so the opening isn't seen from the outside. Also a large gap between your right bicep and elbow. Should bells should have the same gaps on each side. You may also want to add some scrap ABS plastic behind the gaps in the bottom of your thighs. There shouldn't be a gap between the brackets and the end caps on your detonator. The right end cap has been trimmed a little rough. You may also want to check the length. Corners of your plastic belt are too large, they should be cut to meet the width of the belt. You also have a gap between the kidney and the butt plate which with need to be closed. Belt boxes have to align with the end of the plastic belt section. There is also quite a lot of excess material left on the sides of the chest and back plates. Appears you may have your side rivets in the wrong positions Helmet brow trim is not straight and you should see some white between the eyes and brow trim. Ears are very thick on the top sections. Hovi tips should have a white rim. Vocoder paint is a little wobbly in places. Also appears your hovi mesh may be a little bit small Right ear is a little too far forward on the base, should be angled backwards Ear has quite a large gap all the way around and the top section of the ear is quite thick, normally a small gap on the lower section is allowable but not the top of the ear You could move your shoulder straps a little further down on the chest, looks like you just have the large tab and one small attached, ideal is 1 larger tab and 4 to 5 smaller tabs There are quite a lot of photos you are missing you may want to check this list as well as other EIB applications Some photos required Close up of both sides and inside connectors of your thigh ammo strip Close up of the rear of the shins Close up of the sniper plate, front and both sides Close up of the blaster D ring Close up of your ab/kidney side rivets Close up of ab "Han" snap (top right corner) Close up of cod rivet. Close up of butt snaps Close up of your ab buttons Close up of your boots Close up of the S trim around the base of your helmet Close up of your ear screws, top and bottom Interior strapping Good luck with approval

Congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper

Just make sure once taped together that you can still get your hand through

Coming along nicely, there is a great thread on return edges here

Nice work

ATA is a solid armor, my first kit lasted 7 years with minimal issues, now converted to a Sandtrooper, second ATA kit going strong. Looking forward to seeing your build progress. A great thread full of info

In case you hadn't seen here is the size comparison: "Lastly, I picked up a Rubies child helmet on eBay. It's actually not a bad helmet... for kids! Left: the original toy helmet; Middle: Rubies child helmet; Right: Anovos standard ABS helmet."

Had them on my first set of armor, found I didn't need them as the inside elastic held them up fine, did catch on the chest from time to time

Bicep hooks are fine to use they just weren't used on all stormtroopers, you can get all the way to L3 using them or not. Tape is definitely out though.

Congratulations and welcome to the Centurion ranks trooper

Polish on it's own won't remove yellowing, you need a chemical reaction Here is a great How To on Intractables https://www.instructables.com/Restoring-yellowed-Stormtrooper-armor/ Also a few threads here on the forums