gmrhodes13

Looks great, I cut a lot of thin pieces of ABS offcuts to lay on both sides of the nylon when gluing, saves a lot of clamps and magnets.

A lot of work goes into those mini mee costumes

As long as you are happy that's all that counts. They could have been spaced a little wider apart to meet up to the ears, you have a bit of a gap there.

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Hello and welcome aboard

Unfortunately our link to "OfferUp" doesn't seem to be working. As long as you have adjusted the armor to suit your frame/size and it still looks like the CRL references then there shouldn't be an issue for approval. I would confer with your GML (garrison membership liaison) Yellowing doesn't seem as common these days, some older threads on the subject

2 straps is pretty common, I added adjusters to mine so I could get the height just right Double snaps in areas that will have strain is a good idea, it's saved me a few times at troops, having the second spare snap kept me trooping.

Just watch going too thick with the paint, very thick paint can wrinkle when drying, happened on my first painted teeth and had to remove and start again, several light coats is the way

Looks good

Very few actually cut the cod, we are just used to not sitting (or awkward sitting and not getting up), but if you did do the mod you would have to hide the cut line behind the belt, adding snaps and elastic like another other part of the armor would be the way to go.

I find wearing some larger socks and walking around they loosen quite well. If they are tight fill them with scrunched wet newspaper then leave for a few days to dry

If using tape you can apply a coat of white first, that way if there is any bleed through white should be the only color that bleeds I've noticed a couple of my tins of Humbrol paint where a little thick, I used a little enamel thinners to thin it slightly.

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I use double cap rivets, many use pop rivets Some info on holster placement here

Screen accurate have cut corners (some just round the corners) and mostly flat edge although some can be cut on an angle to follow the armor. Cut corners or rounded corners both are acceptable all the way to L3, same with the armor pieces, you can trim them so they are level at the tops or leave them stepped.

A few threads which may be of help

This thread may be of help

If you can build a model kit then you can build armor, it's really not as daunting as many think. Having a prebuild commission is great as long as you get all of the measurement right, you may still find you will need to do some adjustments, but in saying that many have had no issues with commissions. Gives me great satisfaction even now when building a kit, there is a lot of pride seeing what you have achieved with your very own hands. Good luck which ever you decide.

Nice work, came out great. You can make the holster removable, easier to store and transport, I use 8mm cap rivets and behind Line 24 (5/8")

I find the elastic allows a bit more give and bending and movement is a little easier, with nylon you are very rigid and can put stress on some areas.

Hello and welcome aboard, looking forward to seeing your BBB's

Hello and welcome aboard trooper

ATA used to offer both Stunt and Hero ears (if you asked) so you may want to check, as well as only 3 bumps on the ears there are only 2 screws on Hero ears, one top one bottom, also bubble lenses which are a little harder to see out of I converted an ATA Stunt to Hero some time ago BUT it is certainly much easier building the kit to Stunt You can find a break down of the OTTK differences here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view

Also looks like your side trap lines are a little too curved towards the backs You could also add a few more lines in the rear traps, you have 9 and screen reference has 13