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Shrapnel

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    59
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About Shrapnel

  • Rank
    Expert Infantryman

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

FISD Info

  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Simon
  • 501st ID
    77177
  • 501st Unit
    Dutch Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

184 profile views
  1. Just found this thread - compliments on your design skills but, most of all, you did a beautiful job of finishing and painting the pack.
  2. So I finally got around to finishing my son's armour. Next up was the thighs, which were full of support plastic and took some time to clean out. Because all the screw posts were removed, I used shims to glue to thigh halves to each other. The shins were a lot easier to do - there was a lot less plastic to clean out. I also decided to leave the knee plates attached to the shins - we're not going for screen-accuracy here and leaving the knees attached to the shin armour means 2 fewer pieces to worry about losing. I didn't use shims to join the shin halves. Instead, I glued 40mm elastic strips inside. This allows the shin armour to 'hinge' open, making the shins easy to put on and hopefully allowing for some growing space in the coming year or 2. As my son doesn't have any white shoes (and as it was the night before his first troop), I quickly made something from white craft foam to cover his shoes. Lastly, I picked up a Rubies child helmet on eBay. It's actually not a bad helmet... for kids! Left: the original toy helmet; Middle: Rubies child helmet; Right: Anovos standard ABS helmet. At the start of April, I took him on his first troop - the opening of a Star Wars Lego exhibition at a museum. It was the perfect first troop for a 7 year old
  3. Wow, looks great! What helmet and shoes does she have?
  4. BLASTER CONVERSION The BB comes with sound effects electronics mounted on the inside of the chest/torso armour. This consists of an activation button, small speaker, battery pack, control board, an on/off switch, plus motion activation sensor. After playing around with the parts, I realised there was a good chance it would fit into the F-11D that came with the BB. The F-11D is child-sized, but still not a bad toy. Adding sounds would definitely make it cooler in my son's eyes. The hardest part was the battery pack. Using the Dremel, I shaved off as much as possible of the battery box walls until it fit inside the central part of the F-11D. I also removed support plastic from inside the central part of the F-11D, but tried to leave as many screw mounts as possible. The speaker sits behind the battery pack. I cut off the motion sensor parts as they won't be needed. I cut a hole for the on/off switch on the underside of the body. I wanted to make the trigger functional, but the activation button is fixed on a board which didn't fit in the space available. So I compromised and cut a hole for the button on the side of the trigger. Still works pretty well. And the finished product... A good friend 3-D printed Tony's (shenphong of the GGG) great-looking handgrip, which we've added in the photo below. Then when the armour is finished, we'll repaint the blaster so it looks a bit more accurate.
  5. So I found one of the 48" Battle Buddies in January sales for €79. After seeing a few of the build threads on here, I figured it's time to do the same for my 7 year old son Finn (and no, I haven't asked if he wants the bloody handprint yet!). That's Finn hiding behind the Battle Buddy - you can just see his blond hair behind the helmet. Perfect fit. And the BB taken apart. Next up was the easy part. I used my jig-saw to carve off the neck, shoulder joints, thighs, knees and feet. I was able to cut really close with the jig-saw, which meant there wasn't a lot of extra plastic to sand away with my Dremel. Shaping the body parts was fun. Cleaning out all the internal structure was a real chore (as previous posters have quite rightly pointed out). But the armour looks pretty good once done. Next up is make shims for inside the right shoulder and right forearm. They are held together with screws, some of which I've had to remove to make room for my son's arm. The left arm is one long single piece, so easy to cut up and shape. Then I've got the thighs and shins to do. Looks like the thighs will also need shims to hold them together as I've had to remove all the screw posts.
  6. Hey, no thanks needed! Just a drop in the ocean compared to your work. And any excuse to watch Force Order troopers again
  7. Looking at the back, it looks as though the 50mm webbing is shorter. The 50mm webbing appears to stop at the point where the 2 over-the-shoulder straps cross on the back. See here: And here: It also looks as if there is some support at the X. I wonder if there is extra material here, or if the X is stitched together to give more support??
  8. Ok, thanks for the heads-up Tony! So I started work on my vest yesterday. I re-watched TFA and grabbed a few screenshots. See how the upper part of the vest (which we add using the inner part of the Flyye vest) appears narrower than the main body of the Flyye vest? Also visible here to a lesser extent, where the lower part appears wider than the upper:
  9. Hi guys, first off, Tony, this build thread is amazing! Many thanks for compiling this info. Second, for anyone who is planning this build, I found a source for the Nifco slider buckles/slider straps in Japan. They cost $3.77 a set. The straps are 120mm - too short - but I figure 2 straps together will be long enough. I just ordered some, hopefully will get them in the next few weeks. Link to online store: http://specialmaterial.jugemcart.com/?pid=1493760
  10. Hey Richard! Simon here from the DG. Just read your build - looks great! Maybe I'm a bit late - but if you're still having problems with a loose trigger guard, you can fix this with Milliput (2 component modelling clay). Pack it in the holes where the trigger guard joins the body, let it dry then sand it smooth. I did this to my E-11 and the trigger guard feels really strong now. Milliput is a good adhesive, dries really hard but also easy to sand. It's a bit like bondo but doesn't stink as much.
  11. Search eBay for 'd rubber seal' or 'd weather strip'. I bought a 5 metre strip of D-shaped rubber seal from a seller in China - cost about $3 including shipping.
  12. Congratulations Pascal! Good to see another one added to the ranks :-)
  13. Congratulations Artie! Good to see you got it in the same week as me! Especially considering it was you who gave me the push at Lego World, telling me to go for EIB :-)
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