gmrhodes13

Looking good

Correct I did mention that they were all actors

When in doubt you can always refer to our Gallery Sections, there is a wealth of images and measurements.

Some bits of info is seeping out, well clones anyway Hayden Christensen with members of the 501st Legion while filming the Jedi Temple flashback scene for the Disney+ Obi-Wan Kenobi series. Now do they mean the actual members of the 501st Legion or actors wearing 501st legion style costumes Appears this confirms it was actors, middle back has been in other costumes And on the red carpet

Looking good. See how it fits when worn, if you need any more room near the elbow when moving about you can take some more return edge off. My skinny arms needed to keep some return edge to fill the gaps

Hello and welcome aboard you have manage to find a good page for questions/build info. To my knowledge nobody has been picked upon at higher level approval (EIB and Centurion) for having a different amount of dimples

Ouch that hurts Very nice, got to be pleased with that

Looking good so far, shame the picatinny rail is very soft, not very detailed, I would perhaps chat with your GML (garrison membership liaison) to if these will pass approval.

This is entirely up to your GML (garrison membership liaison) some are stricter than others, they should be fine for basic approval but will not meet the higher levels. Nothing mentioned about the stitching until L2 Boots Boots are above ankle height and made of white leather or leather-like material. Small U-shaped elastic sections on both sides of the ankle. Flat sole with a short heel. No buckles or laces. Jodhpur/ Chelsea-type boots or an equivalent style is acceptable. Elvis or Mariachi boots are not allowed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no seam present on the front of the boot. Boots have a black sole

Ran across a similar issue with a recruit, your stickers are salvageable with some care, I first used some thin masking tape and stuck on top of the tube stripes, then using a sharp razor blade or knife gently peel back the tops of the tube stripes, if lucky enough you should then be able to pull back and down withe the masking tape and they should all come with it, then just re-place and apply. The other painstaking way would do them one at a time

Have you tried reaching out to your local garrison, I would gather sending a completed painted set would cost quite a bit with shipping.

Hello and welcome aboard. Lots of great builds to follow, here are a couple Although not 850 they are still full of info When in doubt we have a gallery section full of references https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/28-r1-tk-reference/ And this may help you add images to your thread Good luck with the build

Also adding V tabs can help keep the butt plate from overlapping With a heat gun (oven / hot water bath) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

Good luck with the weight loss, it's easy to put on but hard to get off so I don't envy you. I've had some illnesses and I have the opposite problem of loosing too much so I've had to add some padding in places, just can't win

Some of those threads I posted previously should give you a lot of clues were to trim, research is the key to this hobby

You are asked to pick 5 sets of numbers (just in case any are taken while your are waiting for approval) normally you get the first choice, we have a few threads on why people picked the numbers they have. Mine was easy 85 is TK on phone and 421 well that speaks for itself, so 85421. Your garrison looks after your costume approval and the legion looks after the rest of the paperwork and the issue of your picked TKID. You can find the list of available numbers here https://www.501st.com/members/search_avail_ids.php These could be worth a read

I just trim mine to match screen reference

Really depends on the handplates and the gloves, I've run into issues with three different combinations, last one I used a black industrial silicon and was the only think that held, super glue ripped the backing off the silicon handplates, E6000 just peeled when flexing hands. A bit of trial and error, try a test section first

I've had the same updated mod for 3 years and going strong, occasionally I remove the battery just to top up the charge

You can keep it or trim it, not requirement at basic or higher levels, I like to trim mine across so it doesn't catch when moving arms References of both

Can't complain about that, looks great, nice work

On one loos brow trim I just added a couple of pieces of scrap plastic and wedged between the brow trim and front face plate, added a little glue to those pieces once I was happy with appearance.

I've been using no name brands snaps purchased on Aliexpress, I thought they would be sub standard but have been working well. I think the Tandy 24 snaps have always been mentioned as they are normally easy enough to purchase.

Hello and welcome aboard, this thread may also help you on your journey