gmrhodes13

Ideally coverstrips should be @15 on arms BUT you can go a little bigger if needed, if it's not too much add slightly larger coverstrips on the back as you are mainly seen from the front, if it's a little more space needed use slightly bigger coverstrips on the front and back. Arms/biceps 15mm Thighs/shins 20mm Rear shins 25mm Align the bottoms of the biceps then you can angle cut the tops to match, some screen references show that step there but it can catch on your shoulder bell so most angle trim Also if you use the "direct link" option in Imgur when you copy your image link into a post it should show up, that's the link with .jpg on the end This thread may help I noticed your coverstip looked a little wobbly, not sure if they came that way or you cut. Use a very sharp blade and metal rule, score 3 or 4 times then fold and snap, you can then sand the snap edge as it leaves a little ride. Also when gluing coverstrips make sure you rough the glue side and armor with a little coarse sandpaper, gives the E6000 something to grip too

It's a small world in the Star War costuming community

Hello and welcome aboard, you can request higher 501st member access here Great thread full of info for the first time TK builder Good luck with the research hope to see a build thread from you soon

Here you go: Here's another using magnets

Adding a piece of foam behind the ab plate can take up some of the slack when you tighten your belt. Some add a tab locking system to the ab/kidney, I'll see if I can find the threads when I am back on computer

A selection of blaster audio files, these are compiled form various threads on our forum. Click the 3 dots on right to download. Note: 09 and 10 are the standards Hasbro stun and kill sounds https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_01.mp3 blast_01.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_02.mp3 blast_02.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_03.mp3 blast_03.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_04.mp3 blast_04.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_05.mp3 blast_05.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_06.mp3 blast_06.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_07.mp3 blast_07.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_08.mp3 blast_08.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_10.mp3 blast_09.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_09.mp3 blast_10.mp3 https://play.starwars.com/starwars_soundboard/asset/audio/BSR_blasters/blast_11.mp3 blast_11.mp3 For programable electronics, recharge, trigger, select and so on bcfire01.wav bcfire02.wav Blaster-Imperial.wav Blaster-Solo.wav concuss1.wav concuss5.wav DStar-Fly.wav DStar-Gun1.wav DStar-Super1.wav forceabsorb02.wav forceblind01.wav forcedestruct01.wav forcedsight02.wav Laser Blaster-SoundBible.com-1388608841.mp3 Laser Blasts-SoundBible.com-108608437.mp3 Laser Blasts-SoundBible.com-108608437.wav pistol-1.wav pistout1.wav probedroidgun01.wav railchargearm01.wav railchargefire01.wav railchargefly01.wav remotefire01.wav repeat-1.wav reptrrico01.wav sprobegun01.wav trprout.wav trprsht1.wav trprsht2.wav turret-1.wav wlkrsht2.wav forcedestruct02.wav forcedsight01.wav railchargeattach.wav railchargeempty01.wav

If you can notice there is a slight angle on the lower section on the references Appears your holster straps are a little on the angle, perhaps riveted a bit too wide on the belt, may not get noticed. Also make sure when kitting up your drop boxes align with the end of the plastic belt

And remember there is no RIGHT way, there is just the way that works for you

With E6000 make sure you rough up both areas with some coarse sandpaper, it will help it to grip too As already stated you need to leave some areas for at least 24 to 48 hours to dry and any areas under any force leave for 72 hours just to be sure. There was also some knock of E6000 glue on the webs at one stage, take a look at this thread Personally if you have the correct E6000 this is the ideal glue to use, it can give you a little give in parts as well as hold super strong. Excess glue can be rubbed off with a thumb, sharp popstick or scrap plastic. It's other advantage is pieces can still come apart if you need to add or remove for sizing, a little pressure, knife under a corner to get started and it will pull off.

Looking good, a couple of things you may need to adjust that your GML may require Side closer not quite straight. Also there is a big gap from you the bottom of your TD to the armor. Biceps could be rotated, clips at front Good luck with approval, hope to see you with a TKID soon

Nice work

Nice to see you back at this. I have run into color bleed a couple of times, once was from a microphone which rested against the armor, the rubber sleeve bled into the plastic, the other was some pouch covers which were made in black which also bled into the armor. I found using a good cutting compound managed to buff these marks out. A lot of people speak highly of the Novus Polish. If polish doesn't work you could try a product from Trooperbay called "Armor White" which helps bleach the marks https://www.trooperbay.com/products/trooperbay-armorwhite-plastic-whitening-gel

Congratulations once again trooper, your build thread has been moved out of purgatory

From Battlefront some of the Stormtrooper lines. To save right click then save as storm_01.mp3 storm_02.mp3 storm_03.mp3 storm_04.mp3 storm_05.mp3 storm_06.mp3 storm_07.mp3 storm_08.mp3 storm_09.mp3 storm_10.mp3 storm_11.mp3 storm_12.mp3 storm_13.mp3 storm_14.mp3 storm_15.mp3 storm_16.mp3 storm_17.mp3 storm_18.mp3 storm_19.mp3 storm_20.mp3 you see that new bt-16.wav What was that!_!_!_.wav Ahh its nothing!.wav

Could I suggest perhaps speaking with Bryan @trooper96 who has done some great work with 3D files, he may (or may not) be looking for another challenged as he's exhausted the needs of the E-11's, might be something right up his alley to update/convert

Firstly some helmets are bigger than others. That said I only have fans in my helmet, I use a wired mic, then run the cable down to behind my chest where the aker amp and icomm unit are housed, keeps weight off your helmet which is a must as I have neck issues. My fans use 4 x AA battery packs which fit in nicely on the lower cheeks. Here's a few links showing how others have tackled their helmets Many of us keep the aker and icomm behind the chest, the image below is not mine, I have them tightly together held with elastic with velcro sewn on the back. Also have a small ABS ledge of angled plastic below to stop them falling down. Some use an icomm and hovi tip speakers A few keep them strapped together on their neck

Make sure you sand those rough edges as they can catch on your undersuit when moving

Shouldn't be a hold up at any level, depends how they sit on your arms though, I had to add some foam in between mine and left most of the return edges. I would however try to angle these to match the other side as that square edge will give you some nice armor bites when moving your arms around Screen references have no return edge at all

Looking good, just a few observations. Your knee ammo strip has fallen, this can be a quick fix, add some E6000 behind then life ammo strip upwards and clamp You could also make your forearm gaps match, bring them up a little at the elbow which will give you a little more gap at the wrists, just touching your handplates. Thigh heights different levels. Your helmet is sitting up quite a lot, you may want to try some thinner padding in the top of the helmet, my padding is only 10mm thick and loose foam not firm Drop boxes should align with the ends of the plastic belt section. Shoulder straps on back are not sitting down, a little heat or gently bend with help them lay flat. You may need slightly tighter strapping too, appear they only just meet your backplate but this may just be the image. Here you see how high the helmet sits and you can see your face. If you can't reduce the padding try wearing a balaclava. When taking pictures for GML don't have blaster in holster as it makes the belt droop. Things are slightly different heights in the area image. Just on the side photo you can just see your thigh belt And lastly your ab/kidney sections aren't meeting on the tops and gap on sides. Note drop box out of position. Just some tweaks as we see with some RS builds, once you address these you should be good to go and seek GML approval. Good luck recruit

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

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Looking good, I suggest to most about double snaps in high stress areas, one of those is the shoulder bells to shoulder straps, I had one fail at a troop and having a spare there allowed me to still be able to troop. It's a little more expense and work but can save you in the long run. Saying that some with single snaps have a trouble free run as may you Getting to the strapping and kitting up time soon, this is where you start feeling like a stormtrooper and find how restricting in can be

I suggest having a look at this thread Also here is a thread on converting the Black Series helmet

Not here, you are better looking at the Clone Trooper detachment https://501stclonetroopers.com/