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I know that this can be frustrating. We have all been there. As we explained to you on our Ohio Garrison academy Facebook page, having a member come to you to help you is not an option with the pandemic. I've scanned over your build thread, and you have been getting fantastic help here. When you have posted to our academy page, our garrison members have also provided you with pointers. So, don't give up. As has been explained above, you need to align the top edges, and then trim off the excess on the bottom, following the general curved shape needed for the bottom. Scott Bleisath TK-44140 Ohio Garrison - CO

Wow. So it's been a while since I've even thought about updating my build thread. I have a bunch of reasons, but ultimately they're all excuses. Long story short is I haven't really been working on anything significant. In the end however, I have a feeling all this "down time" is going to pay off huge. I have been doing a lot of 3D printing for myself and others, but a lot of the stuff I've been doing kind of revolves around this build. Yes, I'm using Jimi's kit, but does that mean things can't be modified to make the costume more accurate? Of course not; I've seen others do the same. Additionally, a lot of the work I'm now doing involves resin printing and finally learning Fusion 360. Yes, I'm going to start modeling my own stuff. Let's get started. So, while watching season 2 of The Mandalorian, it was quickly apparent that Lucasfilm has gone all in on this costume. So, do we keep ROTK as the name, or is there a point where we just refer to this costume as "Anthology" or my personal favorite, "New Generation Stormtrooper?" Should there be different CRLs? I think I've broached this subject with the Remnant Stormtrooper discussion, but that was an entirely different costume. The Mandalorian has made the ROTK costume a former one-off and has established this as the version going forward... this is the way. However, I still have plans to build an ANH (Stunt)... someday. Here's the thing... many of the costumes seen in The Mandalorian have seen better days. The ones in use today were clearly used in Rogue One. As such, uniform items keep popping up such as this: Now, initially I kind of laughed at the white trap, but it led me on a long trip where I started researching the screen used costumes and really how it's all put together. This led me to the New Generation Stormtrooper Builders group on FB. This is where I started piecing together a plan for my kit. Back to my kit. This is where I started. These were my first attempts at modeling parts with Fusion. Overall, I'm pretty happy with how these turned out. If anyone remembers from my 3D build, painting the black lines around the traps actually destroyed my first helmet. Well, the oil based paint mixed with Rustoleum clear killed it. After I started digging into the "trap pieces," and asking questions on the FB group, Paul Prentice of Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper fame explained to me that the screen used traps consisted of a gray plastic piece secured to a slightly larger black backer. He suggested printing the top parts out in resin and the backers at .5mm. The picture above was not done in resin; this was my trial run. I'll discuss the white stretchy thing later. Setting one on top of the other, I was amazed at how good this looks. I need to adjust the size slightly, and print the final pieces in resin which will smooth things out a bit, but overall, I'm sold. The other thing that's good about actually learning how to model these things is that I can determine the exact size I need to fit in each area. The Jimmiroquai helmet is great, but there's still some asymmetry due to the fiberglass casting process. Regardless, these fit like a glove and look a lot better than the cloth backing I used last time. Essentially, all I did was stick the backer in there (a little crooked) and then place the gray pieces on top. When I do this during the final helmet build, I'll assemble the pieces on my workbench first. Gluing them in place skewed the traps a bit. Now, I do have to say that this is not how the helmet was intended to be finished, but once I actually do this for real, I'm pretty confident that it's going to look awesome. Additionally, as was the case in the picture earlier, these pop off if you want them to. So, if I decide later on that I want the cut look with fabric backer, it's no problem. Also, the tubes and teeth get cut regardless. So back to this piece: A few days ago, Paul Prentice posted this video of his Shoretrooper forearm armor on FB. https://fb.watch/3hH-ZWTuvW/ Video courtesy of Mr Pauls Shoretrooper Build; @totalgrunt; https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt Mr. Paul claims that what he did is most representative of the screen used armor. I also remember speaking to a few people about the bungee cord used to secure arm pieces on the set of Rogue One. Additionally, I couldn't figure out the proper application of bungee cord as stated in the CRL. So, after that video went up, it sent off a flurry of comments with one asking what the stretchy string was called. Someone answered with Framilon, which got me Googling. Apparently, Framilon is also known as Thermoplastic Polyurethane... my old buddy TPU. So, I got to modeling in Fusion 360 and came up with these: My wife thought I made Legos, which gave me other ideas about snapping the forearms together... but I digress. Here's my simple steps using my 3D print forearm as the Guinea Pig: Forearm pieces, loop blocks, TPU, CA glue, and accelerator. I already had Velcro on one side, but will be replacing everything with the ultra thin stuff @TheRascalKing spoke about in another thread. Glue blocks in. Thread TPU through Tie it off Stretch open. So, this got me wondering if the same application could be used with the shin armor. And that's a big Yup. Also, don't judge, I don't typically walk around in sweat pants and white boots. Also, this was a very quick test, so the leg armor is nowhere close to a finished product. I did discover that the CA glue sticks a lot better to the fiberglass than the 3D plastic, so when I do this "for real" that's a permanent fixture. So that's my first update in quite a while. All I've been doing for the last two months is printing stuff off, "war gaming" this build, and trying to come up with practical solutions that'll be easier, movie accurate, and consistent with the Centurion standards. This weekend I'll tackle the foundation of the costume... the abdominal armor. Thanks for viewing.

Hello there Thought it was about time to start another 'with some modifications' - thread. As most people here, I simply love our Classic Stormtroopers: Since starting my research back in 2012, I also came across some very interesting variants from video games, comics and so on: (photos taken from the 501st CRLs) While each alteration and/or addition helped giving the armor a special appearance, the idea of being unbound and free of any CRL always appealed to me. With this MOC - helmet I will try to combine multiple modifications into a single helmet. Recently I got a suitable kit for this project and collected a few add-ons, so let's see what this turns into... Like with every other kit, my first step was a rough cut, before washing and drying it. Was not sure at all, if I could ever add such a big and symmetrical 3D-printed item (made from sturdy PETG) onto a wonky classic helmet. However, the top ends of the ears perfectly meet the Blast Shield with little gaps that I will later take care of. List of modifications so far: 1 - Blast Shield 2 - Black Interior Thank you for reading and stay tuned for the next updates.

I have been waiting for my doopy's kit to arrive,(still waiting) but I did get the scope and counter in, so I began there. I began with the counter cleaning all the excess resin out. I wasn't happy with the back box so I filed in down and scratch built another one. I used nails with speaker spade ends and used JB weld for the pins on the counter. They are just sitting in place until I put the wires on. Also worked on my scope. I hollowed out the insides and added the lenses for the back and front I also cut out my pvc but that's all I can do until my other parts arrive. I am building 2 of these. One for my son and one for me. His is the practice build to help familiarize myself and will most likely be more of the ESB version. Mine will be aluminum pipe and I would like the stock, handle and magazine holder to be aluminum as well, but we will see. I also scratch made some T-track that I posted in another thread. Well, that's all I can do for now. I will most likely start drilling out my 38mm aluminum pipe this week. I'm using Aarons awesome muzzle kit and building my blaster around it. Feedback is always welcome so please feel free. thanks for looking Kevin

Hi Everyone, I'm Chrispy, and I'm excited to start building my armor. I'm on the waitlist for a kit from ATA ESB kit and I'm planning on chronicling my build and approval process as I go. I'm a long-time maker, new twitch streamer, fledgling R2 Builder, and lifelong Star Wars fan looking forward to bringing the same joy, excitement, and wonder that the franchise has brought me to my slice of the world.

cleantrooper kindly requests eib pre approval. Armor. Rs propmasters anh stunt kit Imperial boots. Sheartech E11 blaster UK garrison

Normally we try to keep the front sizing close to standard as that is what the public sees, if you need to size up use larger cover strips on the rear. Most build threads will show how to add cover strips, here is mine, although a different version than ANH Tony has a great build you can have a look through, explains everything step by step A recent ANH build

Ha-ha every time I copy and I paste, it would turn into that other one.

I hope so, Brian... Meanwhile the work continued: The last photo got posted to discuss the best color option for the ear screws. They could be painted in matte black, NATO green, Humbrol grey or I could leave them brass as they are now. What do you think? Thank you for reading and commenting.

As always I do try to help out with your build when I see your posts on our Ohio Academy Facebook page. Due to how facebook algorithms work I sometimes don't see every post. You are more than welcome to message me anytime and I am happy to help out virtually the best I can. I had a lot of help virtually for my build all from the fine people here in our detachment as well as in our garrison as well as a few other facebook groups. For your calves, your muscles will flex as you walk so even if you are standing still you are only get a small piece of the picture with fitting them. Your cover strips will hide any imperfect cuts on the back. Just remember the back of the shins open up and close around your leg. Did you settle on how you want these to strap? Velcro, elastic with hooks? That may help you decided how much room to give yourself on your cuts.

That laptop at the left asks for stormtrooper aim to strike...

This is the link you need https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=31014

You want to make sure they are not too tight, ample room at the elbow as well as at the wrist to make sure you can fit your hand through. A lot of other armors have raised sections which the coverstrips glue to so it's a little easier than AM.

How do you always manage to beat me by a matter of seconds, Glen?

For Basic 501st approval, ANH Hero, Stunt and ESB can use the overlap method (the type you currently have). If you choose to advance to Expert Infantry level or above, the joins must be separate cover strips. Overlap (construction)- As used on ROTJ armor, this is where one side of the bicep, forearm, thigh and calf connecting seams overlap the opposite seam, eliminating the need for a cover strip Cover strip- Plastic strip used to cover the bicep, forearm, thigh and calf seams on ANH and ESB armor " I think all I have left to do for basic approval is... fill in the side gaps..." Technically, there is no requirement for this at Basic approval, but it certainly looks better! Since you are getting a new bucket, at this point you can either go Hero or Stunt. I would check out the CRLs for each, as the holster placement is different (among other things). Hope this gives you some insight, and feel free to ask any more questions you have... we are here to help!

FX can be built butt join coverstrip construction. You cut the pieces so they join in the middle, you then glue a coverstip on the top. This is for ANH and ESB, for ROTJ you use the overlap method. FX is overlap (ROTJ style) Reference overlap ROTJ ANH/ESB butt join coverstip Coverstrip widths Arms front and back 15mm Thighs front and back 20mm Shins front 20mm, rear 25mm

did I do it right? 501st Legion - Vader's Fist

TK-29449 from Garrison Argentina requesting access. Link to 501st Profile: http://501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=32901

Ok, early morning here about 1:30am. Please by all means let me know how these look. I know I got mirror problems. Gotta fix that. It's just hard taking pictures of your backside. So keep in mind, these ARE MIRRORED. I did actually make pencil lines after filming. I don't know if these are centered or not, I just squeezed and put the tape on both sides. I intend on fully using Velcro on the 25mm CS. The only place where there is not much meat to cut is down at the bottom of the anckles (around the boot). But anyways. What you think? If the images are too poor of quality I completely understand. I need to do something about submitting armor pics. Especially from behind.

You are most certainly on the right track Rod and we know the fear all too well :). Dividing down the center overlap is correct and you do want to mark that while it is taped around your leg so you know the size is right. If you are still concerned cut shy of the lines you have marked, then resize to make sure. Far better to take off too little then to cut straight to the line and realise you needed to leave a touch more room. These parts dont need to fit snug to your legs and in fact are better for your overall movement if they have space to slip and slide if that makes sense. You have done a really great job so far, be confident in your trimming and afterwards you will be proud of the progress.

Got the official word This was a crazy intense build with a roller coaster of successes and failures. In the end, I've emerged far more confident working materials, met some great people, and learned a great deal of experience. What a crazy build. Holy smokes. I've got a TRamp sound system in the works with Gwendoline Christie spoken lines for a variety of video game content. Hoping to work that into the chest with a handler on the buttons. Can't wait to give that a test run. I'm honored to have joined the FISD and have been assigned a TK designation. In the final set of photos I sent, I had just received my gaskets and neck seal from Geeky Pink. Teresa was great, as I had also used her template for the initial cape build. What a boon to the community. The rubber gaskets from T&A looked great but restricted too much movement for comfort, so I had them swapped out which improved fitting and mobility, which is what I has struggling with. Thank you for following along on this build log!

Currently your armor is assembled overlap method. These threads should help

Well done trooper, the empire welcomes you to the finest ranks in the galaxy!

Congratulations. I did notice one small dressing issue on your left arm, as the seam was not facing forward. At first suiting up seems to be difficult, with all the little steps you have to follow, but it will come with time and you'll be a pro. Again, congratulations.

This is great news Brad, welcome to the legion. Don't forget to request your 501st access if you haven't already. It will give you access to more areas of the forums.

Congratulations Brad!! Welcome to the Legion. Enjoy being a Bad Guy Doing Good !

Looking smart, congratulations and welcome to the ranks trooper. You can request Stormtrooper access here

I'm really not sure about that eye film. I think, looks wise I'd love the bubble eyes. Those honestly look bad-an impolite person I think. But whether they can actually get put on the stunt ANH I'm not really sure about. Sticking with this film for now. TEST FIT TIME and wow is this ever a tight helmet, I mean not that I wear a mask very often, but this is like - Nose riding time. Yep the old girl needs a good paint job. But I gots more building to do. Such a LOOooonngg way to go. And yes, another of my projects was to pull off all the nasty wall molding and replace it with spackle and sand. That's not done yet either.