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Today: Decided to work on my aiming skills with a little Nintendo Switch playing something called Fortnite:

Well deserved. 1000 posts is pretty good. 10,000 means you have been very active on the boards. Yes, some people try to run up their count with a lot of "me too" and "yeah" type posts, but what makes Glen's achievement so special is not only has he hit 20,000 (the 10 tonner), but that his posts are so helpful to everyone all over the board. Glen, we couldn't be more proud of you and also thankful for all you have given to the community. A hearty THANK YOU! for all you've done and continue to do. Daetrin

Hi Josh. and thank you for your submission for Centurion! Our apologies for the delay, but there are several items that will need to be addressed before we can get that badge under you name, trooper. While some items below may not be specifically mentioned in the CRL, it does state that we "....must consider both text and pictures (CRL and reference) when reviewing" a set of armor. First up, we need you to remove some of the paint on the lower "teeth". As per Basic requirement: "Paint shall not leave the teeth area". Easy fix!' Reference images Since this RT MOD kit was made before 2018 when they updated the bucks (molds), the ab button plates are integrated into the actual ab. This is one of the reasons they updated them, as the plates must be separate pieces. (Super nice pint job on the buttons, by the way)! Reference images Not to worry, this is not only possible to fix, but has been done before as seen in the first image below. You should be able to get a set of replacement plates from RT MOD, so it would just be a matter of carefully cutting out the centers, trimming the new ones and gluing them on. RT MOD Centurion from 2016 showing fix The next few concern your ABS/canvas belt. As per the CRL for level 3, "The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt". It looks like the corners were trimmed a bit too much, sad to say. Reference images At this point you have a 2 options.. you may be able to trim off the ends of the ABS belt a bit, as long as they don't come too close to the edge(s) of the button squares. Alternatively, you could purchase a new belt. Last up in this area we have 2 concerns. The CRL for Centurion states that the "Canvas belt must be firm/sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging". A large crease can be seen on the lower part that extends around the back (red arrow). The second issue is the staining (blue arrow). A few marks/scuffs are to be expected, but the color of the stains on each side are pretty prominent and a big contrast to the bright white above them. Reference images Finally, I gotta' say that is one of the sharpest looking blasters I have seen come through in a long time, but the Hengstler counter will need to be moved forward to where the rear lines up nearer the rear bolt of the folding stock. Removing the scope rail and re-positioning the mounting screws forward should do the trick. We realize you have some work ahead of you, but none of these items are insurmountable and we feel confident that you can address these issues in fine style. Know that we are here to help or if you have any questions on your way to Centurion!

Lluis Quinquer TK-15711CENTURIONA4Mario - TKSpartan Thank you so much! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/15711-centurion.png

Thank you both. I hope my work is up to the standards of the DO. I’ve followed expert advice to get this armor up to snuff hope my work is good enough.

Congratulations and welcome to the centurion ranks trooper

Hi Lluis, and thank you for your Centurion application! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Centurion. Congratulations! Todas las fotos requeridas han sido presentadas y en nombre de toda el D.O. nos complace darte la bienvenida al rango de Centurión Felicitaciones!!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armour. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Bien hecho Trooper !! Ole Ole Well Done Trooper !!! ***************************************************

I’m going to start my submission post now.

Thank you to all that have helped me get where I need to be. I’m doing my absolute best to get my armor to look as good as I can.

I've come to the conclusion a long, long time ago. Glen is a MACHINE! A real "Trooper helping Troopers" to the Max!

19 to go, congratulations to: David G TK-15028 Centurion 480 Lluis Quinquer TK-15711 Centurion 481

man shoulder will be sore for a good month or 2 .Guess I should not have played tackle football this year for our annual unity bowl we throw .Hope all goes will with yours brother.

Hi Scott . I'll be the D.O. doing your EIB review. At this starting point I'll need you to add some datil photos: 1-The Crl states for Basic Approval about Shoulder Bridges: These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. Looking at your provided photos, It couldn't be appreciated if the shoulder bridges has some kind of Velcro attached, could you please add a close photo of their back inner side and the back plate's shoulder detail to check it? Reference images 2- The crl also for Shoulder Bridges for L2 states: Shoulder straps shall not have a flat end at the ends of them. They shall be ribbed 100%. Could you please add a close photo of the back section of the shoulder bridges to check they have no flat end? something like the reference bellow. thank you.

Looking good. Sorry to hear about your shoulder, I've got a ultrasound booked for mine in two weeks so I know your pain

Looking good, definitely a little more trimming between the teeth.

If we are talking about OTTK I don't recall seeing anyone with a 3D printed suit so definitely none at centurion level. I have seen a FOTK which was 3D printed and approved, I don't think they sought higher approval, these weren't files for the public to buy the suit was purchased already printed. I will just mention that in an ABS plastic costume you can move around quite a bit and some pieces will bend but they do relax back to their natural shape but with 3D prints you may find areas will crack. Just look at Han's chest

Nico Henderson (active on FB) has the most screen-accurate Stormtrooper helmet (only) files, but it is of the Rogue One variant, which is very different than the OT TKs. I’ve seen perhaps one or two attempts at finishing one of the several OT models out there, but I don’t recall their Legion approval status. Vacu-formed is generally the way to go for the OT since they most resemble the screen-used props. I’m sure there are others who are more well versed in the 3D world than I who may be able to provide their input. They’ll likely be along here shortly. =) Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

Congratulations, welcome to Centurion.

Congratulations trooper. Welcome to the ranks.

Please disregard -- didn't see the popup trashcan with Delete command!

@11b30b4 Please add Sheev's Emporium to the soft parts vendor list at your convenience. They have started consistently providing undersuit gaskets and they look excellent! https://www.facebook.com/sheevsemporium

Congrats Lluis!!! You rules!!

Posted

Felicidades Lluis... Enhorabuena por tu Centurion!!!! Congratulations Lluis.

My Hovi's arrived from UKSWRATH today, I will be putting them on tomorrow. Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk

Thank you for your support and guidance!

It’s an honor! Thank you!

Thank you all for the kind words, I must also thank our current DL Andrew @Sly11 and our founder Paul @Daetrin who has been a DL on more occasions that I can count, you guys have put up with me and I can be a pain in the neck. Just trying to give back to the forums for all those who have come before me and steered people in the right direction, FISD's mantra is "troopers helping troopers" and that's all I'm trying to do. This past year and a half has been very challenging time for me for medical reasons, I have probably been more active during this time compared to other years but I needed something to keep focus on, sorry if you guys are sick of seeing my flashing profile gif when you click "new content" This is a great community and a family and I hope to be part of it for some time to come

Glad to see you are back working on this project Eric, it will look awesome once finished.

Sounds like you will have your hands full, be looking forward to seeing your progress

So a bit of an update: Since my last post, work started back up in office so I've been pretty busy, unable to do anything costuming related. BUT with the year coming to a close soon, and with some more time on my hands, I'll hopefully have this beauty painted by 2021 (or before January ends if that doesn't work out)! My RotJ E-11 blaster has also shipped so that's something I'm waiting on too. After that it's just waiting on the armor from 850 to get the build finished (I've also started work on a custom Mando that should keep me busy till then hopefully). I know interest in the helmet files are there, but I have my own concerns on putting them up for sale that I have to think on (since two of us had this commissioned, but never really discussed if this could be sold or not, but I'm the only one still working on it), so we will see. But I do want to release it and let other people build and show off their own Triton Troopers. This trooper I feel deserves more recognition and more spot in the limelight I'll update on my paint progress soon!

Yeah, that's very true, but then they'll look like Sandies..lol.

I think I mentioned this earlier in your thread, but Tony’s (Ukswrath) Anovos thread should be helpful to you. I also include links to several other good Anovos builds on my reference compilation thread, which would be good reads for you. Justin (TheRascalKing) has also done some great work with his kit. There aren’t set-in-stone one-size-fits-all directions since every armor maker is different, as are the body types of every Trooper. The key is research research research. =) Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

All, thanks for the tips on the paint. It's just weird since I haven't had any issues putting the white on top of the gold, it's only when I try to put anything on top of the white. I think I'm going to follow Tarok's advise and play around with a couple scrap pieces before I try to lay paint down over a cured coat again. Since I showed a pic of the ab armor yesterday, I thought I'd outline this process a little. I'm hoping that by the end of the weekend I'll be posting pics of a few more finished pieces, but for now, I can at least bring this thread up to the current time. First, I'm going to post a pic of something that has become a very valuable tool throughout this process. I'm not sure how widely used this tool is, but the concept is very simple. Of course, these pics are a joke, but the basic steps are gauge body part, measure, and then scale armor in your slicing software. In theory, a person should be able to use this tool when measuring for any type of armor before trimming. If you guys want the file, they can be found here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2892755 They were created by Uncle Jessy, but he credits NikkoIndustries with the idea. For an in-depth view of how to use them, check out Nikko's video at https://youtu.be/8p0iqI_qWK8 or Uncle Jessy's video at: https://youtu.be/OM5hwTrVnRU After scaling my armor, there was no way I was going to get it to fit on my print bed. When I chose the CR-10S, I did so because of its large surface, but as I alluded in a previous post, something even larger will be very welcome for future builds. The CR-10S Max is very attractive, but also very expensive. I started to make my cuts in Meshmixer, but was not a fan of cutting right through the front greeblie. Instead I decided to print off the file without the boxes which also helped extraordinarily well with hiding the seam. As I stated yesterday, if I can cut a file behind something that gets affixed later i.e. the belt ammo boxes, it eases the post processing burden. Additionally, printing the greeblies separate allows a person the opportunity to print them again slowly, at a much higher resolution. Preferably, I would like to print detail pieces off with a resin printer, but that's another future purchase. Here's the slice without the boxes. Between the front greeblie and the belt, over half of the cut will be covered with another item. The side slice was a little trickier. Again, I wanted to hide the cut, so I decided that the best place to do so would be along the forward edge of the semi-vertical seams on both sides. I posted this picture yesterday, but this illustrates how I was able to "weld" the armor on the front. Typically I won't plastic weld anything on the outside of the armor, but since this will all be hidden, it was perfectly acceptable and did a great job of strengthening the seam. Greeblies were printed separately, but as I said yesterday, I totally forgot to change my print settings. Regardless, they turned out pretty good. For this part, I did my post processing a little out of order. After I welded the inside of the armor, I ran a thin bead of the Alex Flex along the front seam and sprayed a thin coat of filler primer over the top; this was what sold me on the process. The print lines were actually deeper than the seam I cut directly through the middle of the armor. When I'm able to pick up a tub of the Alex Flex spackle, I'll update the thread. Again I went heavy on the glazing and spot putty before doing my first sanding and priming. Also, this is where I decided that I would stop post processing until after I sized and fitted the rest of the armor to this piece. Doing the plastic welds is kind of fun. It's nothing more than a soldering iron and extra filament. The only issue I've had is that I've burned my knuckles about a hundred times, but that's just me being stupid. After I do the modified tig weld, I typically follow that up by smoothing the weld line, which forces the plastic deeper into the seam. The weld is obviously finished in this pic, but it's worth noting that prior to welding the pieces, I tacked them together using a few dabs of super glue and a bead of E6000. After allowing the E6000 to cure, I ran a bead of super glue along the seam and then dusted it with baking soda. While this cures the super glue almost instantly, I found that the baking soda cement line wasn't very forgiving to flex. In the future, I will fill the gap with the Alex Flex. Really not sure what I was thinking, but I really didn't like how narrow the gap was in the back of the armor, so like an idiot, I cut it wider to give me extra room to slip the piece on and off, and bring the gap up to "approximately 4 inches," which I swear I read somewhere but can't find now. I'll discuss this in a minute. After cutting these pieces out, I stress tested the armor and was able to flex it open to about 9 inches, which was plenty of room to put the armor on and off. However, knowing that I would be doing this frequently, I decided to print off two flex plates that would cover the seams I just welded. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of this, but here's the Simplify3d visual. The flex plates were wide enough to cover the seams and the high-stress portions of the side-abdominal area. Additionally, at only 2mm thick, they didn't have much infill and were highly flexible. I secured them using E6000 and then welded around the edges. Following this addition, I was able to stretch the abdomen pretty wide, and kept walking around the house like this: Unfortunately, when I put this on, I realized that the rear gap had opened up beyond the dimensions of the rectangle (kidney) plate. Thanks to Jeff (11b30b4) for verifying the size of the kidney plate for me. I had suspected that my kidney plate dimensions were off, but after he told me what his measured in at, I realized that the length and width of what was provided with my armor was correct (I actually increased the depth based off reference pics). Fortunately, I was able to get all my measurements done and adjustments made before I got ambitious with the cutoff wheel. That's how I was able to appropriately size the chest, back and side extensions as well as get community input regarding the thighs, cod, and belt. I agree that the abdominal should be the starting point for this reason; the placement of almost everything seems to hinge on where the abdomen sits. Also fortunately, the rear (kidney) section of the abdominal armor was only like a six hour print. I was able to set everything up, do my telework thing, and come back to finished armor. Last night I welded the sides back together and now have this: Here I clamped one of the old flex plates on so you can see what I was referring to earlier. I totally forgot to print off some new ones this morning and started printing the back of my clone helmet instead, so I won't be able to put the new flex plates on until tomorrow. Following that, I'm going to hit the inside with some resin and keep moving along. Ultimately, though I'm holding it a little low in the pic, it fits how it should. Hopefully I can do the strapping and add this to the pile of white pieces soon. Also, please ignore the mess, that's our COVID stash and evidence that my kids have been feeling rather cooped-up all summer.