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Hey troopers, So, my other suit of armour is now finished and 501st cleared, so I can now start on this helmet. I’m going to be using the photos of Simon’s original, screen used helmet and aiming to replicate it. After all, this helmet was cast from that original helmet - why not try to replicate it?! Right? :-) So, I’ve started off with the eyes. As ANH helmets were so unique, the eyes play a big part in the finished appearance. I originally used the reference photos and them eyeballed the approximate cut lines - I marked these with pencil; However, looking closely at the inside of the eye sockets, the original cut lines of this helmets eye sockets were pretty clear; Now with added pencil lines... To get the look I like (very sharp lines), I used a Stanley knife and gently started scoring along these original mould lines. Once I scored enough, I started to cut along the lines with the Stanley knife, very carefully, from the inside. The results are, in my opinion, pretty close, including the notable bump on the upper inner edge of the left eye (when worn). More updates to come. :-)

Jason, Tarok is correct. IB only does runs once a month for a week at a time. So, if you go to their web site and get the message you posted, it’s because the run has not started. Also be sure to check out their FB page before you go grab those boots. Sometimes they run deals and discounts. Most of the time its for combos like the Shoretrooper pants, top, boots, gloves, and belt for a set price. As for the fit of the boots, the size chart for IB shows hot to measure the height of the boot from the bottom of your heal. However, I will tell you that I wear a size 10 reg in combat boots, Vans and Converse All Stars, and my ROTK boot is a EU size 43 or US 10. While IB does not do returns, if you get the wrong size, most likely there is a market to sell them to someone on FISD. The scaled sniper knee (left) looks correct in my opinion. I have no doubt that the strapping and buckles you put on the back side of the abdomen will work fine; however, if you are unable to tighten them up any further, Consider using smaller webbing and buckles since that will give you some additional clearance. Also, FYI the designers of RO actually used an elastic fabric similar to neoprene and a zipper, this was then attached to the inside of the armor with Velcro. You do not need to yours this way, but I wanted to make sure you were aware. Here are few pics of Justin’s (TheRascalKing) build and how he did the zipper closure. Very clean and nice. As for painting the TPU, you may have better luck with 100% silicone white caulk rather than the Kwik seal. The Kwik seal is petroleum based. Even if you print the TPU in white, most likely you will have the issue of it not being a gloss white, so really getting a clear gloss coating that wont crack should the main concern. As for E-11 suggestions. I have a Hyperfirm or HFX RO E-11 and I love it. Its rubber and looks very real. It also does not weight a ton. I will say that when I started my build, I was 100% of the mind that I wanted the S&T airsoft that I planned to modify to RO standards. I am so glad everyone talked me out of this idea. One 3-mile parade and you will be soooooooo glad to not have a boat anchor for a prop. Hell, it’s the whole reason I have rebuilt my T-21 three times. The weight of the weapon is a big deal that most people discount until your arms are screaming. So, I suggest a lightweight E-11 and that generally points towards 3D printed. However, if you drop a 3D printed E-11, most likely you will have a lot of parts for an E-11 rather than a complete E-11. In my opnion, the only way to go is a rubber gun. Hyperfirm is no longer in business and as far as I am aware of, the only real option you have for a rubber RO E-11 is Praetorian Blasters. Praetorian Blasters actually makes a nicer looking RO E-11 than my Hyperfirm in my opinion but they were not an option for me when I got my E-11. Two things you need to be aware of before you purchase an E-11 is that the RO E-11 have several differences from the OT E-11s All RO E-11s have a similar but different scope the M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model not the 1942 model seen on other E-11s. Also, the Henstler 400 counter with the small eagle is different from OT E-11s as is the power cylinders. So, make sure you are getting an accurate RO E-11. The other thing you need to know is that the rubber E-11s are not cheap, they run between $200-$300 dollars. Lastly, do not be mislead when I say the blaster is rubber, its not soft and flexible like a swimming pool noodle, it’s a rigid hard rubber like a tire. Well I hope some of this helps and keep up the great build.

I said it would be converted in a few months. Well, other projects got in the way, and life, too... so it actually took a little over 2 years to complete, but this kit is now officially a Sandtrooper! Time to go find some droids!

Name: Ardeshir Radpour Username: equuspolo TK-42128 Southern California Garrison Los Angeles Squadron Armor Maker = Anovos - fully customized Helmet Maker = Anovos - fully customized Blaster Type = E-11 Made by Praetorian Blasters, Customized Height = 5'10 Weight = 165 Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Canvas Belt = Kittle Belt Hand Plates = AM Armor Hand Plates - custimzed to fit and match. Electronics = Icomm, UKSWrath Amp, Selfmade Custom Fans and Battery Pack, Wireless Mic, Wireless connect to Aker Amp, Speaker Neck Seal Type = Stormtrooper Undersuit, molded piping Holster Maker = DarmansProps Same Suit as my stunt EIB-917 and Centurion-439 Approved. NOTES ON THE CHANGES AND MODIFICATIONS: THE HELMET: This Helmet is an Anovos Helmet rebuilt from scratch. All Stickers replaced to accommodate Empire Strikes back colors and stripes. Tube Stripes are single stickers alternating white and blue as were used in Empire Strikes back. All Stickers from TrooperBay. Per ESB Helmet, this helmet copies the three stripes on the right ear and two stripes on the left ear. Neck seal is S-Curve and lenses are flat lenses. Helmet also follows the low brow example as seen on of the empire strikes back stormtroopers on a few scenes, but clear example of him in the very middle on the vader invitation scene on Bespin. HOVI TIPS: Opened up and painted white on the inside and rim is painted white as well, Anovoes mesh was replaced with appropriate wider mesh to match screen used mesh. THE AB BUTTONS: Ab buttons are squared off. They were filed down and squared off. They are sharp edges on all four corners of each.

Hello; Very interested in becoming a Trooper and joining the 501st. Reading through the board it appears that RS is the way to go when purchasing a suit. Looking for some insight on options and what's the preference, given the wealth of information. 1. ABS vs PVC 2. New Hope or The Empire Strikes Back 3. Is there anything else I need to consider that would not be included in the offering Thanks for your help

Foam on the inside can definitely help to stop rotation on the forearms and biceps. Good news on the paint arrival

Definitely have your shins and wear the boots to get a true idea of sizing and how much extra material you'll need to add.

Jeff, Thanks again for the insight; this is great. I probably should have gone with smaller buckles. I've ordered some for the thighs, but I really like how these 2" buckles feel. I did tighten them up as far as they would go, so unless I lose a lot of weight, I'll stick with them for the time being. Also, I saw @TheRascalKing's zipper enclosure and loved it, but ultimately leaned towards something I could cinch down. I've 3d printed all the parts for an E-11, but was experimenting with my settings during the print, so there's some horrible print lines. I haven't put up any pics of this build yet, because I kind of tossed them to the side. Here's a few: Despite the print quality, some parts came out great (grip, bolt), but some came out horrible (folding stock, top rail). Also, the barrel looks awesome, but it keeps breaking apart every time I bump it, that's why there's some pretty shoddy seams in the pic. The three sections of the barrel are kind of butt jointed together which creates a very weak link. I did pick up a 3 foot section of the correct size PVC pipe, so when I have a little time I may try again using that as my main tube. Also, if I ever get around to purchasing a resin 3d printer, blaster parts are some of the items I definitely want to make. Regarding a rubber blaster, I'm guessing it's similar to the rubber M-16s we had for training in the Marine Corps. If so, that may be a good bet. Finally, this weekend, my squad in Garrison Tyranus is hosting a virtual convention https://inferno-con.com/ (I'll be sitting on the 3d print panel Saturday at 1200). On Sunday, they're having a "socially distanced" photoshoot about 5 minutes away from my house. So, I'll be heading out there to meet everyone and see how the squad is trooping during these COVID times. It should be fun, plus I'll take the opportunity to check out everyone's blasters. If anyone's interested, check out the programing page here: https://inferno-con.com/programming.html

Hola Mario Me parece una buena idea. Así dejamos a Joseph que se ocupe de que los parches y los pines nos lleguen a tiempo a todos. Añado las imágenes que me solicitas de los guantes y los handplates de silicona. Pensaba que había añadido las que subí cuando solicité el EIB. Quedo a la espera de tus sugerencias. Un saludo Hello Mario I think it's a good idea. So we let Joseph see to it that the patches and pins get to us on time. I add the images you request of the gloves and silicone handplates. Thought I had added the ones I uploaded when applying for the EIB. I look forward to your suggestions. a greeting

Also, if you've purchased the FOTK files from CGTrader, I asked the designer to rebuild his holster so it could be made functional. He has redesigned the holster so it should be functional now. I haven't printed them, but they look pretty good. It might be worth a look over there to download the updates!

I had no problems at all with the ab section files. I printed at .3 height, 3 walls, 20% infill using a .4 nozzle. The parts are very strong and glued together quite easily (printed in 4 parts as well). What print settings are you using? Do you have pics? Not entirely sure what you're asking here? Suspenders are attached with snaps inside the ab. Male snap plates are glued inside the ab with e6000. I also have quick connect buckles attached on the suspenders (redundancy) in the front. Let me know if you'd like pics or need more of an explanation. The shins are attached with wide white elastic glued to the inside of one half of the shins. They are attached with e6000 on the outer halves... they open kind of like a clamshell. I used wide elastic to allow for a little flexibility while opening them, but not much. So for the left shin, to put it on, the shin halves open on the INSIDE, they are permanently closed on the outer side (the side of the shin that is most visible). For the closure, I used loop velcro stuck to the inside of the shin, and sewed black 1" elastic straps with hook velcro tabs on either end. There are two of these, one that attaches on the inside at the top, and one that attaches on the inside at the bottom. Yeah, the files aren't listed as a FOTK holster. I posted a Make so I could remember where the files are located. Here ya go! https://www.thingiverse.com/make:845162

So im on my last 3 parts of printing this model. I have to re-print the abs section. I had to print it in 4 different pieces, and none fo them mated together well, they were also EXTREMELY thin, is your abs ection very thing as well? I would be afraid to even sand it, even if they did mate. Almost all other parts are welded together and ready for priming painting, I was just checking on this thread to see how you are doing the snaps/suspenders/shins so I will look at your other builds for the shins. I may use an ab plate from a different model, that is thicker. ALSO, I cant find the thigh bracket on thingiverse...their search is notoriously bad. is it part of an FO suit or its own model? I want to weld it to the thigh

Done, thank you.

Hi Trooper, you're having great advances, well done. About your questions, if I can give some ideas of I would do: Planning to finish torso and back this week however had a few questions when I had a test fitting. - Cod feels bit high, is there a way to lower it? Was thinking of reducing overlap at chest/cod join and potentially using webbing instead of elastic at this join? - I can narrow gap about an inch between front of thighs and cod as garter system wasn't fully adjusted - Does the back look ok? or is posterior too high? You can still lower down the Back and chest plate by enlarging the fabric /elastic connection. This will allow all the torso to be lower. - Big shoulders and lats are an issue as there is a big gap there have already fabricated smaller strap for attachment at top of shoulder but will probably also change strapping at bicep, which may help? other suggestions To reduce the gap Bells /Shoulders connection you may want to shorten the straps and a not easy tip would be to reduce the biceps a bit, in the photo they look to have some room, this would allow to reduce the gap a bit more. - is there too much of gap between helmet and top of chest? long neck or too much padding in helmet? Yes, this is a common issue, (I had it too ) What I did was to remove the top padding and problem solved. Hope this can help. Cheers

Haha - yes, no doubt about that. That's why I love this helmet and really want to replicate all of its little quirks. :-)

It's the wonky charm of the original ANH TK's we love! Hand sculpted in clay by Liz Moore for ANH and RS casting 40yrs later, directly from Simon's original suit confirmed to be sculpted by Brian Muir himself. My RS TK has all the same wonkyness and beautiful imperfections[emoji7][emoji1303] [emoji1591][emoji41][emoji1591] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Now you mention it, there is a definite slant from top right to left. I think the lighting makes it look “bent”. Here’s some better shots.

Here’s a quick update. My FIRST pieces of hardware arrived. I’m not the proud owner of UKSWRATH’s iComm set and bucket fans.

Thanks @tarok. I must have seen a pandemic message on another site. When I ran into this, I think I just assumed. I am following them on Facebook, so when they open back up, I'll be ready. I don't know if they updated their site last night, or if I just missed this, but the European sizing chart is up there now. Easy day.

Great work Christine, looks fantastic.

Hi Michael and welcome. You look to be very well organised.

Thanks, here are the photos that correspond to my earlier questions. Note neck seal fabric still needs to be trimmed.

Muchas gracias Sergio, Como sabes , Joseph está bastante atareado con el run del parche y los pines EIB 1000, pero como trabajamos como equipo también he estado al tanto de tu aplicación y voy a encargare de finalizarla. Pronto estaré contigo. Gracias por tu paciencia. Thank you Sergio!! As you know, Joseph is a quite busy in charge of the EIB 1000 Patches and Pins run , since we work as a team, I have been following your app too and I'm going to finish your review on behalf Joseph. Thank you for your patience.

I usually use the "direct link" if using computer or "copy image link" on mobile, or they won't show ie: Looking good, gets exciting the more pieces go on the body. You will find wearing boots will bring the shins up you have room at the top of the thighs to come up so that will not only reduce the gap there but also give you a little more room at the knees. You may find you might have to bring the ab/cod down a little too if you still have too much gap between the cod and thighs.

Thanks Andrew. All the velcro inside is dry so fitted the fan and foam, also made a template for the lenses, marked and cut out, I use a little hot glue just to hold them in place than apply some black silicon around the edges, I like the darker look inside. And fitted. Don't be too concerned if you have small gaps, does help with air flow Time to add the decals, yes I'm going to cheat and not paint, my hands are no longer up to painting fine lines after 2 finger operations and arthritis in a few knuckles. Dave M decals, a little expensive with shipping but a must if you can't paint and want to go L3. Make sure you have the correct tubes stripes on the right side (or left ) You want the tube stripes falling forward at the front. If you look at the image bellow you can see the front leans forward ie: front \\\\\\\\\\\ back Should be a pencil width from the cheek. As I guide I like to use a piece of masking tape the same size as a pencil Trim to size and apply I like to pull away from the decal as I find it doesn't pull the decals off while removing the top sheet. Repeat on the opposite side. On to the tears and traps, I find it easier to trim the decals down to size and test fit, adding a little tape in places is a good guide. The decals don't fit all helmets perfectly so you may need to trim down slightly, using a permanent marker is a good way to restore any missing black lines you may have to trim off. Any air bubbles just a very impolite person with a pin and push the air out. No this is not how the brow trim looks finished, it was pulled down to apply the decal And helmet is done for the time being, I'll apply some light battle damage/weathering once the armor is complete, I like to do it all at the same time so you get a consistent look.

BRAVO for wanting to get things in line for EI and then Centurion, Michael! Ordering a set of RS armor is a fantastic start, no doubt, but as Glen mentioned there may be a few small details that are needed for the higher levels. Know that you are in the right place for any and all advice and that our goal is to assist you in any way we can to reach higher levels of accuracy. No question is "too small" and we are here to help you every step of the way! All you need to do is ask... we are here for ya'!

I have not come across that one. Reading now, thanks!

David just completed his build and has a lot of links and reference material. Check out the build if you haven't already:

Nice work trooper, good luck with approval

Have you thought about using an online image host, many are free, some of us use Imgur, once uploaded you can just copy and paste the "direct link" into your posts, could be an option

Seems you have covered pretty much everything, RS are normally pretty good, recently they where contacted about adjusting a few details so they meet L2 and L3 standards. Looking forward to seeing the BBB photos.

Very cool, Christine. Look sir, droids! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I finally managed to take the photos with the modifications. Proud of work!

That's so cool. Looking forward to seeing the results.