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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/22/2019 in all areas
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Thumpy, thank you. Update, My master must have been more porous than I thought because the urethane straps I pulled got some black dust in them and I cannot get it out of them. I have tried everything rubbing alcohol, acetone, soap and cold and hot water, etc…. Nothing seems to work. So, I figured I needed to smooth my master and make a new mold. I sprayed some gloss clear coat on the master and made a new mold. The pulls were not as clean as the previous mold and I think it’s a combination of both the old silicone I use to make the mold and the fact that the clear coat was not as smooth as I wanted. So, I took the opportunity to make a new set of straps with Velcro embedded in them. This time I used jut the Velcro and no nylon webbing. I have tried several types of glue to adhere the soft Velcro to the top flat portion of the straps. The only glue that seems to work is the Bison glue. Smooth-on does make a urethane adhesive but its $50.00+ for a pint test kit. The Bison seems to work well, and the only drawback is that it that it is a off white yellowish color. This is not a real issue since it should not be seen but I am still in the development stages of these, so I will continue to investigate. I have a troop this coming Saturday and I will test out the straps. If all goes well, I intend to make a new master in the coming weeks and get some new silicone to make new molds and hopefully I can come up with a cleaner mold to produce cleaner pulls. That’s it for the update. Thanks for the interest.4 points
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Hi Josh, I saw your other post about your lid. I think it might be that the face is not angled down enough. This is happening in lots of builds at the moment, leading to little or no gap between the eyes and the brow. Here’s a nice screen used example. Following the green line from the back cap leads nicely to a parallel line above the eye sockets. As you’ll see, it looks like yours could possibly drop by about a centimetre or so. If you imagine the ear as a pivot point, just angle the face down a little. This will give a nicer gap above the eyes and help reduce that face/back cap gap. Yours isn’t far of so just a little adjustment and you’ll be there. :-)2 points
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Just wanted to mention an issue, that surely many users had: When writing a new comment, the soft-buttons for 'Insert other media' and 'Submit Reply' are so close to each other, you can easily hit the wrong one. No big deal if only type text, but really annoying if you want to add photos and suddenly your comment went live. Idea: move the 'Submit Reply' button to the opposite side or add a pop up window 'Are you sure you want to post this now?' (or something like this). Just an idea, as I have no clue about webpages and how difficult this is. I love the FISD so just wanted to suggest something to improve the page a little bit.1 point
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One more reason why your legendary. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Figured. *shrugs* But really, that makes sense, and as you know this thread is much more lively anyway so it makes for better (and more continuous) discussions if you stay over here so thank you! Thanks! That's what I'm hoping for. Still trying to get as much done as I can before then, though... Yup. Mentioned it towards the end of my post - but apparently it was too much rambling for the mighty Preston to sit through. *sobs quietly* In general thanks for mentioning it though because I didn't have access to that part of the Carida forums before O.o I do now, fortunately.1 point
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9 days left, you have time. Sadly I cannot extend this contest if we want patches in-hand in time for Celebration, but I do hope to see more entries.1 point
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No problem. That was an easy question, once the BBB comes the good questions start. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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So first off your gonna wanna check this out. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ From there your honestly going to have to contact manufacturers to find out prices. They vary but stick around the same price. Expect to pay $700 or more to get started then add on everything else you need. I have AM armor cause I’m a bigger guy and love it, but you can’t go wrong with any seller on the list. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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That is some awesome advice from Dan, Josh. Angling that down as he suggested will make a big difference and help close up that gap nicely.1 point
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Coming along nicely, I’m sure some extra hands will be of help to get everyone sitting just right.1 point
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I’m guessing this will make for a more difficult mould build, but after working with jimmiroquis I always wished that the traps and tears and the ear bumps were separate. I think it would look more realistic especially for painting. Bottom trim too.1 point
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Thanks for the tips! I can remove the weathering from the T-tracks no problem (I think—if not, I'll paint over them with black). As for the hengstler (that's a new word for me!), I don't think I can move it. The whole piece came as one resin model from Quest Design. If any fellow owners of this model can correct me on that, I'd be glad to hear it :-) Thanks so much!! I appreciate it! Haha! I promise I'm not rushing. Just super motivated! As for the blaster, I don't currently have plans to do more work on it—unless I am missing something for L3 :-) Today, my drop boxes had finished drying, so I got them hooked up to the belt. They seem like they'll do a fine job of storing small things like cash and ID! The velcro on top keeps them securely shut, so no worry of anything falling out. In fact, they're a little too hard to open, but I don't anticipating needing to open them mid-troop often, if ever. Like my other elastics, I wanted to reinforce these straps with ABS. I cut out 1" squares to fasten into the elastic. Because of the extra layer of ABS, my pop rivets didn't reach all the way through, so I used chicago screws instead. I also put a small dab of superglue at the top and bottom edges of the canvas belt to stop the elastics from sliding out of place. And here's everything I have so far! It feels so cool to wear. Lastly for today, I got the first pieces glued that I'll need for the tab and slot on my right side kidney/ab. Tomorrow I'll glue the top plates on these pieces and they should slide between each other nicely. That's it for now! I've just started cutting out the thigh pieces. More to come later on. Thanks in advance for your critiques! :-)1 point
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I didn't, at least for the parts that didn't have any mods from EIB (I can't remember if I had any for EIB or just Centurion, though). As long as the photos are clear, show specifically what is asked for, and the details are correct, and haven't since been fixed, if applicable, then I don't see why you couldn't re-use them. I took my EIB and Centurion photos at the same time, then just updated where needed. I mean my neck seal was my neck seal, it didn't change.1 point
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Time for a test fitting of the main components: 20190120_214645 Might try pointing it at the moon tonight to see if it will make it turn red... Cheers!1 point
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Okay, here are some close ups of the stands after equipping them with E-11 blasters. Below is the small fat stand. And here the slim wide one (looks better in my opinion). The top view shows the different dimensions and positions on the base: While one stand was meant to sit on the bottom of the large cabinet, the second stand required a shelf to rest on. Another MDF board seemed a bit simple to me, so I added two drawers, which I had found at work and painted them. These are perfect for smaller things like scopes and my counters. And this is what it now looks like with everything in there: Enjoy your weekend.1 point
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My mark 3.0 central capacitors. Thanks again for the tips Christian. Added some color too before inserting the 0.65mm wire (couldn't get .70mm). Now curing will take place with my capacitor ends at the right color. Resisters also had wire upgrades. Green stuff to fill in the larger hole ahead of time, now wires are snug. Thanks for following my crazy adventure!!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk1 point