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PatrickM

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  • Content Count

    48
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About PatrickM

  • Rank
    Corporal

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Netherlands
  • Interests
    Star Wars, mainly Boba Fett and various trooper types.

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  • Name
    Patrick
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  1. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Yes, the BlastFX kit is really awesome! My son couldn’t stop testing it. And the scope display looks fantastic, especially in your beautiful hollow scope kit Brian. As soon as I saw movies of that combination I was sold! And on top of that Paul is a great guy to deal with, very helpful. He even sent me the latest BlastFX version with functional rotary switch, which wasn’t available yet when I placed my order. Really cool! Thanks for the heads up! Fortunately I already noticed and screwed the rear sight in the correct position, leaving just enough room for the end cap to move. Thanks guys! Looking forward to completing this project. If only I had more spare time...
  2. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    In the meantime 2 more packages arrived, containing: - additional 3D printed parts, this time from Christopher Pearson - the BlastFX with miniscope electronics kit from TRamp So I guess you know what’s coming next... Pew pew! Here’s a picture of the incoming goods inspection (trying to be professional about this ): 20190114_190640 More details And here’s a picture of some recent progress using the 3D printed parts: 20190114_225019 It’s beginning to look like a blaster... 20190114_230059 Cheers!
  3. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Sometimes being an electrical engineer helps. The standard approach of using a resistor would also have worked, but then the current would drop if the battery runs empty. I wanted to ensure that the LED current remains at 20mA. Just let me know if you would like a detailed explanation. I really admire the mechanical skills of other forum members such as yourself! Expecting more parts to arrive within a few days...
  4. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    LED there be light Today I received a package from Lighthouse LEDs with some Ultra Bright red LEDs and some 20mA LED drivers. To ensure sufficient voltage even when the battery voltage runs low, I added a step-up boost converter that I adjusted to 5V output. Here are some pictures of the first test: 20190111_230528 20190111_231145 Looks bright enough to me Cheers!
  5. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Thanks Brian! I will have another look in the local construction / hardware stores for some suitable aluminum or PVC. So far I found only thin strips and profiles up to 3mm. Unfortunately importing this kind of materials is very uneconomical due to the administration charge for the customs check. The 3D printed part is only 2.5 € and I expect that the knurling pattern can also be applied to it (similar to the PVC).
  6. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Yes I saw all the options you tried, impressive! Wasn’t it an option to put a layer of green stuff on the aluminum T-piece and press the knurling pattern into that? Or would it come off too easy then? Where did you get the thick PVC that you eventually used?
  7. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    No problem at all Tino, I completely understand that you follow tons of build threads and can’t remember everybody’s individual progress! Thanks for the suggestions! I will first try if I can correct the warping of the T-piece after heating it. Then it might be worth salvaging with some reinforcements. Otherwise there are also plenty of other solutions, of which ordering a 3D printed one is the easiest (and cheap because I will most likely order some more 3D printed parts for the power cylinders, the rounded squarish block for the folding stock and the front sight block). Plenty of great examples in Brian’s build thread for scratch built T-pieces. I thought I had found some nice power cylinder end caps on 10.3mm diameter fuses, but unfortunately they appear to be impossible to remove without damaging them. Unless someone has a good idea for that? The ceramics are much harder than I expected; even the Dremel cutting disc hardly gets through. And then the bit in the cap still remains... 20190108_222820
  8. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Hi Tino, I already did some time ago: 20190108_202513 I think the 3mm axle (cut from a worn out Dremel bit) is still a bit too thick. There’s very little resin left around the drill holes, which I fear is not strong enough for a functional clip. Considering alternatives like 3D printed or scratch build.
  9. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    That’s exactly why I first built some experience before starting with the scope. The main challenge for the drilling is to drill exactly perpendicular (without a column drill), with very little margin for deviations. But I managed and other than that it was a piece of cake. Everything fit perfectly! That sounds like Brian: improving even upon perfection! I’ve been reading your build thread yesterday Brian, amazing how many innovative mods were introduced by you! Really considering the dove tail front sight block now... And still doubting which way to go with the end cap clip, I’m worried that the DoopyDoo’s T-piece is too fragile to use... Thanks again for your awesome scope kit!!!
  10. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Tapered the width of the trigger guard from 12mm at the front to 10mm at the back, as seen in the reference picture of a real Sterling. 20190107_233152 Thanks again for pointing me to this detail that I overlooked master builders!
  11. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Yes, very much worth it. My build already benefited a lot from it! Thanks for the tip! I’m planning to use an airbrush for (most of) the painting. Would that also have problems reaching these places? I’ve already bought some Tamiya paint, but I just saw that Brian ran into issues with their flat black color. Any recommendations on paint type and method (spray can vs. airbrush)? Glad that I can also give something back to the community! Still reading up on other build threads, really amazed at the great ideas and skills out there...
  12. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Thanks guys! I realize now that I completely misunderstood the tapering remark... I thought that was about the middle of the guard being thicker than the sides. But I see now that at the front it’s a bit wider than at the back. Will definitely replicate that as well! I knew I could rely on the collective knowledge here! You have impeccable eyes for details.
  13. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    Hi Brian, yes after building some experience with the “coarser” stuff I felt that I was finally ready to tackle the more delicate scope build. The most tricky part was drilling the holes. Apart from that it was pretty straightforward thanks to your excellent manual. I cut a few rubber rings to size to keep the small lense in position without gluing it. 20190102_113321 Still waiting for the electronics though, so the miniscope is not fitted yet. I will probably also add a red LED behind the small lense, like Marko did in his build. My DoopyDoo’s trigger guard also has a bit of tapering, but on the reference pictures from a real Sterling it appears to be flat. So I’m not sure which is more accurate. Maybe some of the other experts can comment on that? Thanks for your kind feedback! Best regards, Patrick
  14. Hi Marko, did you already check this power cylinders thread? E11 power cylinders research thread Or Tino's Lucky#Eleven thread? Lucky#11 update 22 - the power cylinders Best regards, Patrick
  15. PatrickM

    Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

    For today’s task I needed a vice, so I first had to correct a little mishap from earlier this week. 20190105_131317 Here’s the new one, supposedly “heavy duty”. Let’s see... 20190105_150415 OK, now we’re ready for business again! Trigger guard As you may have guessed already from the above posts, today I made a more accurate trigger guard from a 2mm thick aluminum strip. Thanks Dan for supplying me with the template and reference picture! To ensure that I would bend the aluminum to the correct shape, I decided to print the reference picture to the correct size for the DoopyDoo’s grip. I cut out the trigger guard shape and drew it onto a piece of wood: 20190105_210333 I then used my jigsaw to cut out the shape, staying clear of the pencil line. 20190105_191808 I removed the last bits with a big file. Here’s the result: 20190105_190331 Bent the aluminum strip around the wooden shape. Since it would bend back a little, I had to take it off and manually bend a little bit further. After that it fits like a glove: 20190105_191213 Time to fit the new trigger guard to the grip: 20190105_210054 What do you think of the result, better than the DoopyDoo’s trigger guard? Cheers!
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