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Thanks Jesse! Hopefully get quite a bit more done at the weekend...actually enjoying myself now I’ve got started [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, so last night I was able to make a test nylon snap plate with 2 Fasnap snaps installed. I used a soldering iron to make the holes with the assistance of one of my 3D printed snap plates as a template for hole placement. As an observation, I feel like the Fasnap snaps hammer together easier than the Tandy snaps. I'm not sure that's scientific...but I felt like it took less time per snap with the setting tool and hammer. Here's the test plate: I then covered the back side of the nylon webbing with E6000 glue and went all the way up to the edges of the snaps. I spread the glue evenly across the surface and I wasn't too careful around the snaps. In fact, I intentionally want there to be some glue that ends up on the snaps because that should be the "worst case scenario" if I'm going to do this for real on the armor later. Then I got another piece of scrap ABS armor trimming that I had prepped by sanding the patch where the snap was going and laid the snap plate in place. I secured it with some blue painters tape which keeps it from moving and applies very little downward force on the assembly. So this morning (not quite 12 hours later) I checked on the test. Here's the same piece of scrap flipped over. I don't see any warping or deformation. The area looks perfectly flat and none of the reflections warp around the locations of the snaps (those 2 parallel line-like features on the right hand side of the ABS were already there). So I'll check back on this piece tonight when I get home from work. I'm guessing it will look the same, but as @Harbinger mentioned his warping may have developed over some time, I just want to give it 24 hours to make a call. I plan to remove the tape and see how the bond turned out. If everything seems good and strong, I'll make up the rest of my torso snap plates like these and start gluing them into the armor late tonight. -Dana

Woop Woop! Thank you Sir and thank you to both yourself and Tony for all your work getting us approved

Nice work. Even though it’s just a couple of mm, the brow looks much nicer. (Daniel’s chanting did the trick! ;-) lol) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! This is such an honor

Congratulatuons on your approval and becoming the crl model. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TD_R1_Jedha_Sandtrooper

Correct. The pull on the WTF center buttons is quite deep. Grinding down and adding a backer plate is the way to go. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Thanks Dan for commenting. You are correct, when I look at the larger pad it appears to sit too high. So my plan is to grind it down and then put on a new backer plate.

While everyone was having the time of their lives at Celebration 7 last week, I decided to tackle something that I have been meaning to fix instead of hating on the fact that I wasn't in Anaheim. When I rushed to complete my suit to begin with (long story short had a birthday party to attend in a TK), I messed my thighs up and cut off too much. Not knowing about how to shim things properly, I did what I did and I was happy with it. What I ended up with was a 50mm cover strip at the back of both thighs. No one has ever pointed them out or noticed them so I never really gave it much thought. That was until I started fine tuning and looking at it more. Steve (Gazmosis) was kind enough to pass me for EIB standards, but after private discussions we agreed that 50mm was too much out of the buffer zone if I were to shoot for Centurion. So they had to be redone. After much procrastination it was time to get to it in between troop weekends.....so here it is. PS> I apologise for the 'smudges' you see in the pics. Its from some dirt on the back of my phone camera lens. Dunno how it got there. Here are my thighs before the mod. Experimented with ABS paste as I tried to make them 'prettier'... The dreaded jagged cuts. I refused to use E6000 for my build so most of the suit is put together with CA. It would have been easier to take apart and less messy had I used E6000, but no regrets. I hate that stuff. New shims on the very top. The old ones I cut out below it. Then glued the shims in... I can't remember where I saw this product being used, but it was on one of our troopers build thread. Whoever it was - Thank You! This stuff is the best putty i've used to far on plastic. I strongly recommend this for larger fixes. I got mine from eBay, but I'm sure you can find it at good hobby stores. This stuff is pretty easy to work with and you can shape it with some water on your fingers kinda like clay. Some trimming and then the sanding. I used a scraper thingy to get most of it off, a dremel for some hard to get chunks, and 3 grades of sandpaper to finish off. Also put the 25mm cover strip on. Lastly the paint. Wasn't sure what to use. Had some of this 'Satin Blossom White' and decided to use it. Now I'm thinking I should have used something a little more glossy... Here is a before and after photo... What do you think? The white actually matches very well, so I didn't paint the entire thigh. Just the backs where needed. I wanted to leave the wear and scratching I already have on the front and sides from trooping. A few more minor tweaks and hopefully I'll be ready to apply from my centurion badge. Thanks for tuning in troopers!

If Only I Had Known Read Ukswrath’s thread all the way through before you begin. It is filled with tidbits that you will want to know ahead of time. There’s plenty to read until BBD. Get more magnets and clamps. I got 20 thin ones; 20 thick ones would have been better. Read the Centurion approval threads. Learn from other people’s errors. Oopses Peel the protective film off before you glue things together. (Don’t worry: It peels off. Then you can reglue the parts.) If it doesn’t feel like it fits that way, then maybe it doesn’t fit that way! Fo your approval photos, get someone to help. The TK Armor is not easy to put on yourself and get right for inspection. Additional Advice The Anovos strapping system is okay for initial fitting and your submission photos. But you will probably want to upgrade that. The Anovos belt is silly. Get a good one like Imperial Issue. Get Centurion-approved boots even if you don’t now plan on that level. The Sterilite 32 gallon tote is perfect and is a good thing to practice masking and spray-painting on. Thanks To The fine troopers in FISD who encouraged and advised me along the way. My friend Razek the Dragon who took time off from his vacation to help me suit up and pay attention to and fix all those finicky details. He earns a 501st patch!

Time for some helmet upgrades:

There is no real measurements for length. Different makers and different widths of coverstrips would change it. Some people line up center box to coverstrip( me too) and some place it offset making wings(where pen is) even on both sides. Your call. A tip for curved edge: use pipe for TD to mark radius. And make sure rivet is in formed edge at bottom of thigh. Not above the ridge. I like to say when in doubt check out some Centurion photo's if you don't get an answer quick.

I did do a short video of the trigger working but can’t work out how to get it to upload [emoji848] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok...finally I managed to make a start! Lock screw and bolt fitted to the grip, trigger and spring fitted and shaped a strip of aluminium for the trigger guard. It’s thinner than the scope rail so not sure it’s quite acceptable? What do u guys think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Shane! Thanks Jeff! Hope to troop with you real soon! Thank you, good sir! Thanks a lot, Randy!

Good eye on the forearms. Now that I've gone back and really studied screen grabs, you're absolutely right.....easy fix to shorten the strap between the biceps and forearms. THANKS!

Lol - who doesn’t, right?! I hope Tino is taking notes for his kits. Hehe

Hey Dan, thanks for the quick response. I just happen to have a Lego flagpole, play-doh and superglue. I'll do the same. :-) Mark

Awesome! Way to go bro!

If the bells have a swoop then the left shoulder bell “swoop” points towards the chest. Here are mine for reference, left is lefty and right is righty . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I received my folding stock, front sight housing, front sight pin, bolt handle, and magazine well. Chris, photos do not do these justice. THEY ARE AMAZING!!!! With each piece I own, I get more excited about building your E-11. Thank you for making these.

Hey Anthony welcome back and thank you for your Centurion application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present. Nice clean build as mentioned during your EIB application, great job. With that Andrew and I would like to welcome another fine FO Stormtrooper to Centurion. Congratulations Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Time to get out there and represent the Empire as its newest Centurion

Congratulations Danny, if my lid showed the scars of active service I too would not want to remove them, it’s like a badge of honour [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whatever works right Helmet looks great and with that higher brow even better (really like the higher brows) and great work - almost time for a fully suited Stromtrooper

Thanks. The wife took the kids to the grandparents for a few days - so I'm building every night from the time I get home from work till I fall asleep. It is glorious. I'm trying to finish up before they get home because, yeah, not having time to work this is frustrating.

Daniel's version of the Jedi mind trick.

Looks really great - a salute is in order

Well I had great armor to work with so alot of credit should go to the armor maker Troopermaster! And with the screen accurate strapping kit (also TM) it was just a matter of assembly, fitting it to my body, no agony with sniper knee or a "shin-gate" like others experience or any other hardships to talk of. I like to exercise so hardest part was to downsize myself in order to fit the armor (thighs are maxed out) if you can call a reduction in training hard So I was fortunate - others have to do waaaaaaay more work to make the armor fit so my bucket goes of to them But - thank you very much Dan I´m very pleased with the end result.

“Oh, but you can - oh, but you will” (Wait, that’s a Batman Returns quote, not Star Wars..... oh well) Seriously, though: you’re setting a great example to others of consistently well built, great looking armour. Hats of to you, Trooper. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Dan and I wish I could have all OT Troopers in TM kits Bought an extra pair of TK boots the other day....

You did such a good job, Tapatalk thought I should tell you 4 times!! ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Aaron. Lovely job job on your armour and blaster! You wear it well. :-) To my eye, all I’d possibly consider is moving your forearms up a tad to even the elbow and wrist gaps. If you wanted to add a little more to the stunt look, you could probably get away with extending the frown paint a little, too. (Personal preference though ) Best of luck with your application. :-) Dan

Stunning work, well done! Looks absolutely amazing

They do require a little work in getting them to look presentable.

In that case, try and reverse engineer them, more practice.

Studying graphic design, was hoping to create my own trading card or poster to practice what I'm learning.

Finally finished the back closures for the shins. Cut my 25mm cover strips, sand edges and rough up gluing areas. I marked the mid point because I cannot eyeball it. Add E6000 Clamps. Always the clamps. I bought 1” Velcro so I cut it in half. This is the left shin. Opening is facing inward and the soft half of the Velcro is facing towards the leg. I added a little E6000 but the adhesive on this industrial strength Velcro seems pretty strong on its own. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Touching up the helmet tonight. I had to touch up some paint and adjust the brow. I did the toothpick trick to clean up the outer edges of the black and then went in and added some grey to even out the black on the inside of traps and tears. Adding grey. Before After Fixing brow. Marked where brow originally sat. Took out the screws and rotated top back to where I wanted it. Marked the new spot and measured the difference. Then marked at the centre point of the helmet where I will trim. Used a straight piece of abs scrap to help draw line. Draw line So I chickened out while measuring and didn’t trim as much as planned. I could have gone higher, but this is better than what I had. After Before Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha!! “Symmetrical”! You don’t see THAT word in TK builds very often... lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I have yet to see minor imperfections that can't be easily fixed. With the exception of kidney shims that need more work, almost everything else is gravy.

I had "sweeping gaps" in a few spots and it still turned out fine.

One other thing comes to mind that I thought I’d share — don’t be too paranoid about screwing something up, because in the end it’s just plastic. It’s not that hard to make up a solution of ABS paste, fill in your blunder, and sand/polish it back down to a level surface. ABS paste is just a mixture of PURE acetone and ABS scraps mixed together in an air-tight jar (I use small canning jars). It takes a few hours for the acetone to melt the ABS into a paste — you want it about the consistency of white school glue, maybe even slightly more liquidy because it dries/cures so rapidly. I had to do a HUGE shimming job on the backs of my thighs (filling a 40mm gap) — and though it took around 60-80 hours of filling/sanding/buffing, it looks pretty damn good for an amateur. You can do it! Just take your time, measure three or four times first, make your cuts slow and deliberate, and enjoy the process. Stressing out about it makes it a chore. Instead keep your eyes on the “prize” and persevere. You’ve got this, trooper! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sure there is a thread on molding somewhere. I learned everything just by experimenting and doing it over and over until it worked well. the 3D print is a good place to start, but prints are not usually the most durable final products. I make the molds out of a silicone rubber, and make copies out of urethane resin. The urethane resin is very durable and easy to work with. Once you have the molds, you can make copies relatively fast and can sell kits to recover cost.

Hi Stephen, it took 11 months and there were ups and downs like yours but it was awesome to get the TK ID. I was lucky enough to get my birth date 11 August 1974 ie 11874. But I tell you this iPad is just about killing me when it comes to attaching photos. I did manage o take all of the required photos for centurion so fingers crossed it’s just a quick fix or hopefully nothing at all. matt

Hi Q, I’m struggling with bad internet connection and my iPad just turned off and I lost all my photos, I’m just re-adding them now. I had to download another app to use the Flickr URL because my iPad wouldn’t copy the link, I’m not sure if there is a solution? Hey Stephen, thanks for for that but I have it right next to me with multiple checks because I have had to add the photos twice. i should have them all done soon fingers crossed.

There are many steps necessary to build magnetic shins, so today I begin with making a critical component for them: ABS buttons. The buttons are necessary to hold one half of the magnet assembly in place on the inside of the shin. I'm using 12mm x 3mm n50 magnets. You'll need a total of 20 magnets for the shins (10 on each shin). I strongly suggest buying more than 20, though. I've found that they can easily break, and you'll want backups on hand! You can find them in bulk- and cheap!- on eBay. First, I begin by making a template with a hole in it that is slightly larger than the magnets I will be using. I trace the magnet on a sheet of ABS. Here's what it looks like when done. Yeah, I know my hole isn't perfectly round. It's not terribly important for it to be perfect. I used two magnets to make each button. One on top to help me see where my hole template needed to go, and one underneath to form the button shape. Heat up one section of the ABS sheet using a heat gun on LOW until it gets slightly warpy. You can even leave the magnets attached to the ABS while you heat it up. Once the plastic is soft, quickly press it onto a flat surface, pressing the hole template around the exposed magnet. This is what it looks like on the top and underneath when you're done. And here's how it looks from the side so you can see how the magnets attach to the plastic. See how the bottom magnet sits flush in the new ABS button? I spent about forty minutes repeating the process until I ended up with 10 buttons. I will cut down and shape the buttons to fit each shin later. There will be five buttons installed on each shin. Still lots of work to do, but it's a pretty good start!

A couple of friends and I watched the Original Trilogy back-to back yesterday. I always had a feeling ANH and ESB were (mainly) lefties, then ROTJ went right. However, it appears that the majority of ‘set pieces’, rather than action scenes, the troopers are primarily lefties throughout all three films. I get the feeling that ‘force of habit’ kicked in for some of the action sequences and, as you would if you’re right handed, some blasters were in the right. I know that there are some exceptions to the rule but, as per pic below, the big, staged scenes are primarily left. Personally, this encourages me to troop as a lefty, just to bring that extra level of detail to the character as that how I believe they were “intended”. Don’t get me wrong, though - I’m not judging the righties - this is just my personal preference. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Greetings fellow SW enthusiasts! This is my plan as I set out to install the electrical components of my build into the grip. There's a small handful of custom pieces like the trigger guard and trigger plunger and have modified the doopydoos trigger. Also will be using Tino's rotary switch that comes with his Completion Set. Although it would be neat and tidy to chop up the wiring of my already operational BlastFX to funnel wires and reconnect to minimize the amount of resin destruction, I chose to keep my wiring intact and will go about with some creative work with thin styrene plastic pieces and aluminum sheets. That's right, I am going to gut out channels and housing compartments and recess them as needed, then cover up with plastic then mold in with green stuff (pattern Knurling where necessary). I will then have two aluminum sheets, cut to shape of the trigger housing part and cover it as well as have the little odd shaped piece around the base area of the selector switch. Feeling a little apprehensive but with careful planning, I hope I can pull this off half decent. Cheers, and happy building!

Today it was time to give this Kit the "ultimate" Hero-look - namely adding the comlink and grappling hook/box.