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QuartZ

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About QuartZ

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    Male
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    Southern California

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  • Name
    Dana

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  1. Hooks sewn into each strap. My fingers are tired! -Dana
  2. Hey @troopermaster, thanks for the information. Do you have any links to photos of a screen used ANH holster up close? Or another thread that show the correct aspects you mentioned illustrated more clearly? I think the "V-cut" could be modified, the retaining strap could be mounted form the inside using the existing hardware and not passed through the slot, and the mounting straps could be separated and installed as you suggest. If there's good reference, I'd be game to try modifying these aspects on one of my Darmans Thanks in advance! -Dana
  3. With my belt completed, I thought about what holster solution I wanted to go with. I couldn't find much information about the differences between the supplied Anovos holster and the ones offered by Darman. I own a Neck Seal from Darman and think it's great so I knew I'd want one of his holsters when I got to that piece of the puzzle. But, there's 2 versions and I wasn't sure which to purchase. So I bought both. I figured having them in hand would let me really understand the differences and allow me to make the best decision for me. In the following photos, I've labeled the holsters: 1 - Anovos 2 - Darman 8oz 3 - Darman 4oz The Anovos holster is larger in just about every way. The designs are all very similar which I guess makes the Anovos version a pretty good option for the stock kit. In the second photo, I wanted to give people a good idea of how the leather weights (thickness) compare. The Anoovos seems similar to the Darman 8oz in therms of leather thickness, but it feels much stiffer/harder. Both Darman holsters have a better feel in terms of the leather quality. You can see how much thinner the 4oz leather is and how it flexes a bit just under its own weight. Not in a bad way in my opinion. Having studied the way the screen used holsters move, curl, and flap about in A New Hope, I believe the Darman 4oz is closest in thickness and movement. Another interesting thing I notice from the screen used holsters that the Darman 4oz also mimics is the 2-tone black look that the lighter leather interior gives off is what I see whenever scenes in the film show the holster clearly. This isn't an important detail but I found it interesting and worth noting for anyone who cares about minute aesthetic similarities. Either way, both holsters seem very nice and with the supplied mounting hardware, I can switch between either version. Unrelated, I started fabricated the calf elastics/closures. I cut and stitched the strapping and I'll spend some time sewing the hooks in next. I may use some other means to help keep the legs securely closed, but similar to the torso, I wanted them to look screen accurate from the outside. -Dana
  4. Thank you. I plan to do a complete overhaul on the helmet and I think I'm going to repaint everything by hand as well. I'll be sure to reference the screen grab references when I get there. Thanks again! You're not too late at all. I think that padding out certain areas on the inside for comfort and fit stability are great ideas. I did notice a little pressure in that area, but after removing some more return edge when I reshaped the Chest tabs that the Shoulder Bridges glue to I noticed a reduction in pressure on the collar bones. I like the idea of gluing in some thin padding there as well and I'll add that to my list of improvements to hit up after I finish the basic build. I know everyone mentions learning a lot from wearing the whole ensemble your first time so I'm already preparing to adjust and improve the fit and comfort. Thanks for the suggestion. -Dana
  5. As I mentioned the other day, I wanted to post a progress shot showing the upper body so far. The helmet is totally stock from Anovos, and the biceps aren't hooked to the Shoulder Bell elastics yet, but you get the idea. Oh, and my as much as I tried to get a straight on shot, my girlfriend was just off to the side enough to cause me to look off center and thus the gap between the shoulders and chest look asymmetrical. They're really close. -Dana
  6. Thanks! I appreciate the pep talk. I feel like I'm getting closer. -Dana
  7. I had a few minutes this morning, so I took advantage of them to get something simple done. With the Chest and Back armor connected and the Shoulder Bridges glued and positioned to my liking, I was able to take my Shoulder Bells and figure out where the elastics and snaps needed to be glued in order to have them nearly touch the Shoulder Bridges (I left a little tiny space for reduced rubbing). I tested the positions by using the same magnets I do when gluing to hold the elastic to the Shoulder bells and try everything on before committing to gluing. Here's one Bell glued up (showing the inside and scrap ABS to spread the magnet force): And the other from the outside: I will probably try to post a shot of the assembled Chest-Back-Shoulder Bell combo tomorrow. I was really happy with how everything lined up. Just didn't have time to snap a photo until I was done gluing. -Dana
  8. The shoulder covers have been glued and the E6000 had more than enough time to dry so this morning I removed all of the clamps and magnets. I then cleaned up all of the ooze and had enough time to fabricate the elastic retainers that keep them from floating too high off the back plate: I worked on the belt several nights in a row. Drop boxes were reinstalled with new elastic, and rivets/washers. I managed to get everything completed last night when I removed the Anovos glue from the back of the rivet cover caps and reinstalled them with E6000. You can see the final assembly just resting this morning with clamps and tape still in place. Here's a closeup showing the minimal gap between a drop box and the bottom edge of the ABS belt, as well as the alignment of the drop box to the edge of the ABS belt. I think everything meets Centurion here. Cross those off the list -Dana
  9. It looks like the waist belt for your kit. Also noticed the scale between it and the JB Weld in the bottom corner of your photo -Dana
  10. Whew!!! Working on the belt this evening was tricky. I had already taken apart the Anovos belt and started by getting my @TKittell belt situated on the Abdomen male snaps per @ukswrath's tutorial. I did something a bit different though. With the belt in place on the abdomen (Ab button plates still taped in place) I pushed the canvas belt into the male snaps really hard and then took the belt off. I could see indentations clearly in the canvas and used a pencil just to mark the center of these indentations. Then I followed the instructions and put pencil lead on the male snaps and the put the belt back in place. This confirmed my initial marks and I felt confident I had my hole locations dialed in. The rest was straight forward following the tutorial. I was aiming to have the Centurion-like slight overlap of the bottom button so here's the ABS belt riveted to the Kittell canvas belt snapped onto the Abdomen: I'm a happy camper. The rivet covers and drop boxes shouldn't be a big deal. I hope to get those done tonight. -Dana
  11. Quick update, I'm gluing the Shoulder Bridges to the Chest. Here's a wide shot (again clamp overkill): And a closeup of that E6000 ooze! Awww yeah. I really love this stuff and don't mind scraping off the edges when it overflows like this. : Cross that off the list. -Dana
  12. It's ok, it's late, I'm tired too. But , I want you to be able to sleep tonight...lol. I think because you don't see all of the connections in 1 photo you got your "tabs" mixed up in my photos. I took a quick photo for you looking into the armor as if you were going to put your head through the neck hole (back plate is at the top of the photo, chest plate is on the bottom of the photo): Well then I blame @ukswrath for suggesting this method in his Anovos build tutorial! Just Kidding!!! I do appreciate the heads up on wear and tear and this being a potential failure point. If it starts to get sketchy, I'm confident I can make more double snap plates and swap these shoulder elastics out for an easily replaceable component in the future. I totally believe you, but I gotta get this armor done and get that Centurion! Onward! -Dana
  13. Me too. I used mine to cut and trim 95% of my armor. If you're skilled with them, I say stick to using them! Looks really good to me proportion-wise. Good work! Even if it wasn't necessary, I think your TD looks much better with those minor trims. Little things add up. -Dana
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