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About QuartZ

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  1. Thanks, I think real hardware is good if it's readily available and inexpensive. I think I'm going to go back and tweak a few things before I print this. Mostly how the lens rings are designed. I think I got a few things wrong. -Dana
  2. Tonight, I whipped up a version of the M19 scope found on several blasters. I did it for a reason unrelated to the E-11, but I think it's used on some of those as well (my Hyperfirm seems to have one on it). Anyway, it was fun to create. I still need to add the text on the lens ring area. Oh, and I haven't tried printing it yet. Here's some angles: Most of the hole locations are just setup as impressions to be used post printing for getting proper drill placement. Some have countersink chamfers too (like the front 3 screws). I also left lips for lenses. The main body is hollow, it's built out of multiple pieces that fit together. Getting sleepy here... and I'm sure once I go to print one I'll find some things I want to improve. All in all, I'm happy with what I could bang out tonight. Enjoy, -Dana
  3. I haven't been posting in this thread for almost a year! Well, I took a break from the blaster work and I've been working on the armor. Well, that's not entirely true. Before I took that break, I did create this 3D file for the receiver tube. Why? Well I'm going to look into getting a batch of them laser cut out of aluminum. I think that this version is really accurate (it's my third iteration from the ground up). It was very time consuming to pull all of the measurements from my Sterling parts. In fact, I now have 2 sets of demised Sterling parts so that I could compare dimensions across 2 samples to make sure I was getting this as close as possible: There's a few of my other bits mounted on there for reference just so I could check how some key parts lined up. Oh, and I'll probably have to close up the magazine feed hole (seen in the second image) if I want to have these laser cut. I don't want to be accused of producing a functioning machine gun receiver. There's a few more bits to tweak, then I'll start talking to some shops. Any how, no idea how long that will take, I just wanted to post this since I forgot. And, there's something else I worked on more recently... -Dana
  4. Congrats! It can seem overwhelming...but it slow and you'll do fine. Enjoy the day! -Dana
  5. I'm certainly no expert on repairs yet, but I imagine experienced builders will eventually get here and suggest either ABS paste or super glue to close up those shoulder cover cracks. You'll then have to do some sanding and polishing to get the repair to match the original surface. And in the second photo is the little white elastic strap/loop that is required for Centurion installed around the shoulder cover and back armor? Because that should help keep it down. Check out this thread: ukswrath's Anovos tutorial (shoulder cover elastic retaining strap) They look like this when installed (photo is copied from that thread link): Hope that helps, -Dana
  6. I have finally been able to start putting the torso together. Here's where I started. I used 2" wide elastic to create these loops (similar to the loops that come with the Mr. No Stripes brackets). I felt that the loops had more rigidity than a single flat length of elastic while still remaining flexible under stress. So, I used the sewing machine to stitch one end and the turned it inside out like this: Then I punched holes for the corresponding snap pieces (still using Fasnap stainless snaps). Then a bit of hammering and I had some of these: Here's the back armor all attached using straps: A little note - I did create and install 2 straps using 2" wide nylon (they are pictured above but look SO similar to the elastic straps). These were used to connect the outer edges of the kidney to the posterior in an effort to help keep the posterior edges from flaring. Worked out well. -Dana
  7. Alright, today I decided to do some little things. First I installed the "S" poppers in the abdominal plate: Here's that Centurion popper that faces the inside of the armor for strapping: Then I installed the same type of poopers on the posterior for the connection to the cod/abdominal armor: Posterior to cod poppers from the inside: Crossing stuff off the list! -Dana
  8. From the beginning I knew I wanted to have the screws visible for cosmetic reasons. I also realized that if I ever wanted to try the bracket method I would be able to with this setup. I planned to use the snap plate + strap method mostly due to what I had heard about Anovos plastic and the potential stress on the return edges when using brackets. Ultimately, I can now switch between these two strapping methods if I chose. I did twice the work...yay! -Dana
  9. And here's a quick drive-by post of the front snap plates I installed. I just had time this morning to remove the blue painters tape: -Dana
  10. This morning marked the 24 hour threshold for all of the new nylon snap plates I glued to the back armor pieces. So, I was able to take all of the tape off and snapped this shot showing how it turned out. Looks good. Next step will be to sew up my elastic straps and install the corresponding snap parts: I also measured and glued snap plates like these into the Ab and Chest pieces. They are currently curing and will be all set tomorrow. -Dana
  11. Oh man, what have we started! I hope it didn't bum them out too much! -Dana
  12. Alright, I wanted to report back what I found when I got home. I removed the painters tape. The E6000 bond looks great: Flipping the test over to examine the "outside" it looked the same as this morning. However, I wanted to be sure so I grabbed a flashlight and shined it at the surface at an angle pretty much parallel with the surface and saw 2 very, very faint humps. It was the only thing I could think of that would reveal the truth. These imperfections are nearly invisible under normal lighting conditions without shining a flashlight at it. Sorry the photo isn't in focus, but hopefully you can see what I'm trying to show (there is something there): So, it appears that even with this method, with this combination of materials, and with no pressure applied.... it may be impossible to avoid the issue entirely. I think this result it the most acceptable to me, but I'm trying to be very critical and honest about what I report to the group on this issue. Because the truth is, if you really examine the surface, you will see that it did have an effect on the uniformity of the ABS. At least with this level of scrutiny, with the Anovos kit. I don't want anyone thinking that this is a guaranteed method for avoiding the phenomena entirely. That said, I think it's acceptable to me. I don't expect anyone to shine a flashlight at my armor in this manner. -Dana
  13. It is weird. I'm conducting some more tests to see if the snap material matters (Tandy snaps are nickel plated). I'm also looking to see if the rigid nature of my ABS snap plates are contribute to any way to the deformation by trying a nylon strap instead and removing pretty much all pressure from the equation. I have some more on that below. The following is copied over from my build thread:
  14. Ok, so last night I was able to make a test nylon snap plate with 2 Fasnap snaps installed. I used a soldering iron to make the holes with the assistance of one of my 3D printed snap plates as a template for hole placement. As an observation, I feel like the Fasnap snaps hammer together easier than the Tandy snaps. I'm not sure that's scientific...but I felt like it took less time per snap with the setting tool and hammer. Here's the test plate: I then covered the back side of the nylon webbing with E6000 glue and went all the way up to the edges of the snaps. I spread the glue evenly across the surface and I wasn't too careful around the snaps. In fact, I intentionally want there to be some glue that ends up on the snaps because that should be the "worst case scenario" if I'm going to do this for real on the armor later. Then I got another piece of scrap ABS armor trimming that I had prepped by sanding the patch where the snap was going and laid the snap plate in place. I secured it with some blue painters tape which keeps it from moving and applies very little downward force on the assembly. So this morning (not quite 12 hours later) I checked on the test. Here's the same piece of scrap flipped over. I don't see any warping or deformation. The area looks perfectly flat and none of the reflections warp around the locations of the snaps (those 2 parallel line-like features on the right hand side of the ABS were already there). So I'll check back on this piece tonight when I get home from work. I'm guessing it will look the same, but as @Harbinger mentioned his warping may have developed over some time, I just want to give it 24 hours to make a call. I plan to remove the tape and see how the bond turned out. If everything seems good and strong, I'll make up the rest of my torso snap plates like these and start gluing them into the armor late tonight. -Dana
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