CableGuy

Nice work, Jayke. :-) When you get back to the eyes, here’s a nice example of how much you can open them up. Note that they were a little rough and ready and potentially cut with a sharp blade.

Good to go - you have them on the correct sides. [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303] Best wishes “TUBESTRIPE POLICE” ;-)

Great news!! Congrats again, Simes. :-)

Well, the helmet is now white. First off, Hycote White primer. Ears attached ready for gloss. Even attaching the ears caused a small amount of damage. Or, “weathering”.... ;-) Now on to the gloss white. Halfords Appliance Gloss White has been referenced in the UK many times and is also the spray I used for my previous re-spray. It’s proper white so I will not be going straight for an aged look. This ended up being about 2&1/2 coats (if that’s possible).

Looks okay if you’re going for Rogue One. Brow could do with coming up a bit, though. :-)

Congrats Simes. Great news. :-)

Thank you, gents. It's great seeing it in this state. Whilst it's a little hard to explain, it makes it feel so close to the originals and gives it a real nostalgic vibe. Can't wait to get the next coats done.

More progress. As well as tidying up the teeth, the first two coats of oxide red primer are on. After a quick wipe down with some isopropyl alcohol, two coats of paint around 10 minutes apart.

Great news! Well done, trooper. :-)

Here’s some nice screen used examples for inspiration. :-)

Well done, Pam. Great job. :-)

Nice work, Dan. Best of luck with your app. :-)

Hi all, A little more progress made this weekend. •Faceplate and back/cap aligned and fixed (2x pop rivets either side. •Ears sanded and shaped to fit, holes drilled and ears fitted (temporarily - bolts in but nuts not fully tightened in theses pics) •initial opening up of the teeth. Used my favourite Dremel tool for this. Will use files for the finer work. Really please with it so far. I’m about 85-90% happy with the face and ear alignment. Paints are ordered so that’s hopefully not too far away. :-)

Hi Christopher, There quite a bit out there these days. To help get the most feedback, you might want to try posting this in the “weapons locker”. Personally, I went with modifying a doopydoos kit. This resin kit is low cost but is pretty detailed. To take it above and beyond, many builders opt for “T-Jay’s completion set” which includes many upgrade parts to make it more realistic. 3D printed ‘can’ be an option, however, they require a lot of sanding to make them look decent. Many just print and paint and these look a little rough, to my eyes. If you wanted a rubber blaster, Praetorian Blasters and Sheartech would be two that I would consider. Here’s a link to my own Doopydoos E-11 with the T-Jay’s completion set, if it helps. :-) Best wishes Dan

Ah, never mind. It’s not too tricky to swap. It could have been worse. ;-) Looking great, btw. That Centurion badge is calling. [emoji2956][emoji2956][emoji2956]

Nice work, Pam. :-) Just a little something that might get flagged by the D.O. team - your left shin appears to be overlapping from the wrong side. The shins should overlap from the outside over inside. Should be quite a quick fix. [emoji1303] Best of luck with approval. :-) Dan

Haha. True story. ;-)

Awesome - thanks for your input, Paul. I’m pretty sure you said similar on a thread a couple of years back? I’ve been reading so much recently I’ve kind of forgotten what came from where. Your knowledge is always welcomed as far as I’m concerned. :-) I’ll look at the off white spray, too. Still not 100% sure if I’ll do a “day one of filming” look or how they look today. Probably the latter. Thanks again. [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303]

Hi all, As I look ahead to painting, I can’t find an exact answer for the paint process of the originals. Here’s what I believe ‘might’ be correct so far... •Helmet constructed minus the ears •primed with red oxide paint (no ears) •primed again (I believe) with white primer (no ears??) •then gloss final coat (including ears) Does that sound about right? Not sure if they masked the eyes and teeth?

Hiya, In my eyes, Anovos vs RS, RS would win hands down for me. Not only is it almost impossible to get any products out of Anovos, (apparently), anovos is also quite digitised. Many areas of the kit are TOO sharp compared with screen used. With so many good kits available now, such as RS and TM, those would be starting points if I were looking for a new kit. :-) Best wishes Dan

Haha. Oh yes, France. Good point. ;-)

Hi James, Yes, the Swede (Daniel) has you covered. I’d agree with attempting to reposition the faceplate. The below shows where the eyes would usually sit in relation to the line on the rear of the helmet; You’re not alone here, hence me asking for side on shots. Quite a few helmets of late have been built the same way which leads to brow and position issues. You’ve caught it early so should be okay to experiment with the position. Based on your latest attempt, I’d perhaps suggest trying the face plate a little higher, as below; I’d also agree regarding the ears - the approximate lines that you marked look much better, however, I’d agree that you try the faceplate reposition first, then have a dummy run with the ears that you’ve already cut. You might not even need to start on the spare pair. ;-) Keep up the good work. [emoji1303]

Hi everyone, So, after a long time of thinking about it, I finally went ahead and ordered an HDPE helmet from DA PROPS (UK...edit, now France...). The kit was delivered in good time and included all the the parts required for the build. As many of you might know, I’m a little particular with OTTKs and requested this to be supplied un-trimmed. As below, where the back section meets the tubes on the face plate, the lower edges were quite flared. After a rough trim and trial positioning I knew that I didn’t want to cut the flares off so I used heat to correct them. I’ve made a start on the eyes, using various screen used helmet pictures for reference. Whilst I’m not looking to emulate a specific Stunt trooper from ANH, I really want to capture the feel of the originals. In that light, I hand cut the eyes with a Stanley knife, periodically comparing (split screen using LiveCollage) to screen used helmets. Starting small and slowly taking more and more away. More to come soon.... :-)

Hey buddy, Here’s some great reference photos for the arms and coverstrips; Here’s the wrist ends. You’ll want to remove all of the return edge including the ‘bump’. Hope that helps. :-) Dan

Well done, Adi. :-)