justjoseph63

Since I get the feeling you will be aiming for Centurion, Alan, () I wouldn't suggest spending a lot on the Rubie's blaster. You can use it for level 2 (EI) but not level 3, so for now I would just hit it with some black spray paint and maybe a little weathering (but not on the T-tracks or handle). WOO-HOO! Nothing like the smell of a big box full of ABS, lol. Remember... stay organized, take your time, post lots of pics and ask lots of questions!

Yeah, I still make these, but only on request for now. $25.00 including tracked shipping. PM me if interested!

GREAT to hear, Jim!! All information is correct, but there are certain things we look for that are not always listed/specifically mentioned there. I have a thread that will help you located here. I keep that thread locked, but always feel free to PM any of us on the D.O. staff if you have questions.

You don't have to kit up, Erick, just some photos showing the rubber gloves on your hands with the guards attached. I suggest black elastic bands for now until you get the flexible guards for level 3.

Welcome, Chelsea! As Mario mentioned, you can make the straps yourself pretty inexpensively using my Supply List thread. Most of the items for that can be found at craft/hobby or fabric stores. There are a few tutorials I have below, including one on how to make your own straps. My advice would be to start a build thread in the link that was provided above. This way, you can ask all the questions you want to in one place, post photos (we LOVE photos) and show off the build as it progresses! Always feel free to post up any questions you have... we are here to help!

The small ones are good, but the larger sizes have more power to give stronger clamping power. These are the the ones I use: Magnets or here: Magnets

You may want to see if Daniel @TheSwede will be attending. He is a wealth of knowledge, and would be happy to answer any questions for you.

Nice job, Art! If there is one thing I could suggest, it would be to raise the cod. As of now, it is sitting a bit low. In looking at the reference pics note that the bottom of the cod sits above the inside thigh openings. Well above them in some cases. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your build!!

The only one not painted is the one on the cod. The rest (ab/kidney- thigh ammo pack) are white. Hint: Be sure to scuff up the heads of the rivets with sandpaper and then clean them before painting. This will give the paint a better surface to adhere to.

Snaps are recommended, not Velcro. Velcro can (and will) wear out over time from use. Velcro is fine for emergency repairs in the field, but only as a temporary fix.

If you haven't already done so, I would suggest adding interior cover strips inside the front calf connections. The reason being is because those particular connections gets a LOT of stress from opening/closing the backs when suiting up. They don't have to be pretty, lol, as no one sees them anyway and it takes some of the stress off the front cover strips.

The fabric paint was just for the elastic on the sides. If you are using regular black/brown etc. colored Chelsea style boots I would recommend stripping off the shiny finish with a leather deglazer/preparer first before applying the leather dye. Otherwise, you may have cracking/peeling issues.

Under normal use this should not be a problem, especially if the brackets are installed correctly. Anovos can be on the thin side, but you could always add small washers for reinforcement on the inside. Tony has an outstanding build thread that shows all the steps for installing the bracket system. It's lengthy, but he breaks everything down and there are TONS of detailed pics. Here is the link: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build-stunt/

I loved this one.... just one more reason to avoid ebay for armor. The chest looks like it was re cast from the front end of a pickup truck.

Hope this helps, and keep the questions coming!

Looks GREAT, Erick... nice job on those fixes!

Since many TKs are located in countries that do not permit weapons (even replicas) there is no requirement to even have one for Basic approval so you are good there. However, since Levels 2 and 3 are optional a weapon is required for those. Sorry, forgot to add those CRL requirements: Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

You may be out of luck there, Alan. That post is from Feb. of 2016. I know you are aiming for Centurion, but the Hasbro blasters are not permitted at Level 3, not even conversions. Unfortunately this is not an inexpensive hobby, but there are alternatives! The Hasbro will get you to Level 2 with modifications (see below from the CRL) but what I would do is this: 1. Find files for a 3D printed one, but know that the print lines must be sanded down/filled. 2. Doopydoos makes an outstanding resin E-11 kit that if built correctly will get you to Level 3. (It's actually a fun build but takes time). Sadly, they are often out of stock. What you can do on their site is sign up for notification when they are available. When you receive that email from them, order immediately, as they sell out quick! https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp If you want to take it to the next level of accuracy, you can get one of Tino's @T-Jay E-11 finishing kits. These are the BOMB, and he is a great seller! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/

Assuming you will (hopefully) be using E-6000 adhesive on your build, giving the areas to be glued some sandpaper love (and then cleaning them after to remove any dust) will definitely help and will give the glue something rough to bond with. I suggest 120 grit sandpaper for this. When in doubt, before attaching any parts be sure to post up a pic or two before you do.

Glen nailed it on the head. Polish can work wonders on a set of armor that has been lightly scuffed. I have heard that a lot of folks used Meguiar's polishing compound with great success, but the Novus system has always worked for me.

Updated with new photos/requirements.

As long as you don't go past the top ridge line (see arrow) with the mobility cuts you will good for Level 3. Same goes for the top of the calf.

Welcome, Carsten, and a big CONGRATULATIONS! That is one sharp looking set of armor, sir.. as Tino mentioned, you should really think about applying for the Expert Infantry badge!

WOW... awesome job on this build, sir! You are right, that kidney/ab connection would drive me nuts, lol. It looks to still have it's return edge, so could definitely stand for some trimming. Also noticed that the ABS belt could be centered a bit more if possible. The button ideally should be centered above the center cod ridge. Adding straps to the forearm/bicep would not only keep them from riding down, but would also help keep them from twisting. Looking forward to seeing your next commission!

Dye will rub off onto your armor and discolor it without a doubt, and removing it is next to impossible. Cotton belts are probably too thick to effectively get the snaps through to properly set them, and the ends (unless sewn) will fray over time. Nylon is the way to go. Thin, strong, and the ends can be sealed with a Bic lighter or soldering iron.