justjoseph63

You can troop with any weapon you like, Gilbert. Although this is definitely a cool looking BFG, it was designed for Special Ops (Deathtrooper) and (in my opinion) would look way out of place with your HWT, especially if there is another HWT carrying a regular DLT-19. FANTASTIC job on sanding/filling those print lines, and glad to see that you added the wire around the T-tracks, which is something a lot of folks don't do.

Welcome to the FISD, James! As mentioned, once you get your armor and get suited up, you should post up some photos of you wearing it here. This way, we can suggest any items that may need to be tweaked here and there before applying for Basic 501st approval so you can fly through it easily. Since you went with an RS commission, you might want to think about applying for Expert Infantry and then Centurion, which should be a breeze! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35371-eib-and-centurion-what-do-these-terms-mean/

Smaller shoulders are actually an advantage, Jonas. Those with large shoulders often have trouble getting the bells to sit close to the chest/back. The front looks to be in good shape (could actually ride out a bit more) so you should be just fine. Before gluing the strapping onto your bells, you should post up a pic of the front/back views showing the spacing.

Welcome back, Chris! I can see it's been a few years since your first post here, but always feel free to ask anything you need to. We are here to help!

Just my OCD kicking in here, lol, but if you really wanted to, you could trim back the small plate a bit more . GREAT to see that you didn't round off the edges on either plate!!! Great to hear that you are safe, Shaun... you folks down-under are getting hammered by those bush-fires! Nice to hear that you may not have to shim, and looking forward to seeing photos of your ab/kidney updates. Note: EXCELLENT job painting those buttons!

Now that's what we like to hear, Carsten!

I have a thread here about the pro and cons of return edges, Anthony- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48166-return-edges-101-ottk/?tab=comments#comment-670906 I also personally would not recommend using CA glue anywhere on your build. If it runs, (even if you wipe it off quickly) it will leave marks. Even the gel type can squeeze out from joins, and removing after it dries is not an easy task. Over time, areas glued with this product can (and will) get brittle, causing separation. Although it takes more time to cure, E-6000 is the way to go. If by some chance you need to separate a join it can be removed, and any seepage/smears can be taken off by rubbing your thumb over it.

Holy crow, Caleb... looks like you have REALLY done your research! To answer your question about the floor tiles, just look for the ones that are smooth. Most have some sort of texture and a shiny finish, which will prohibit paint adhesion. The ones I used have a matte finish and sort of an "industrial" look. The antenna tube top/bottom really should be flat. I used the curved top PVC caps and cut the ends off , but be sure to push the caps securely onto the PVC pipe before cutting them. If you need a shoulder strap for the antenna tube, Mark from AP has them on sale right now. Being a bit OCD, one thing I did was to add covers (available at Lowe's) over the screw heads, which is very inexpensive to do and imo adds to a cleaner look. If it were me, I would use the Garage Boss 16 qt. size if you can get one I would also attach the straps on the inside of the ridge. Some folks use padded straps, but I went with 1" nylon, and they fit in between the shoulder straps/bells. While planning it, I figured the added weight of the pack would put undue pressure on the shoulder straps and could cause cracks, but many have had success with the padded type. For the pauldron, make sure it is the "puffy" style (1/2 inch thick or so). Some are really flat. Sporting a BFG is a cool aspect of being a HWT. If it is within your budget, I would strongly suggest one of Anthony's. I've see my share of T-21s here, but his are crazy accurate. Keep up the fantastic work, and I look forward to following your progress!!!

Great idea reinforcing those areas, Dana. If I could recommend one more area to reinforce it would be the neck of the chest plate. Anovos is famous for cracking there (my Hero is Anovos and a crack developed after 3 troops). One solid strip of scrap ABS about 1/4 (even 3/8) inch wide glued behind that return edge will help prevent this. The arm openings on the chest (especially the front) are prone to this as well. An ounce of prevention, they say...

Oops.. Good catch, Mark. Thanks!

You may want to contact him to see if it can be altered.

Referencing Glen's photo, you should trim it down a bit on the longer side as shown below, with an equal amount on each side of the raised areas.

Welcome, Cheryl! If you are going for Clone trooper, you have quite a selection to choose from! https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:CTN_CRL As Arthur suggested, the clone trooper detachment will be able to get you started on your journey.

Welcome, Joshua! Although that is a good price for a basic kit, there are quite a few accessories that will need to be purchased to go with it for 501st approval. Boots, gaskets, neck seal, balaclava, etc. can add up pretty quick. Buying everything at once is not required, so you can collect them as needed. Unfortunately this is not an inexpensive hobby, but if you are not in a hurry you can definitely get an approved costume with some time. This particular costume is not part of the FISD but actually part of the Special Ops Detachment. They will be able to give you a lot more info. there. Special Ops- https://specops501st.com/ Death Trooper CRL- https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_deathtrooper Hope this helps, and best of luck on your 501st jorney!

Perfect, Dana! Smart move not gluing them on yet, as they are MUCH easier to paint when not attached to the ab plate. When painting them I suggest using either a template or a Filbert style brush (rounded tip) which will give you more control.

That is actually an EXCELLENT question, Shaun! Unfortunately, to be quite honest I am not familiar with eliminating the seams when shimming PVC armor, so you will need some guidance from someone who has done this. What I would suggest is to start a new post with a title like" Need help with PVC shims". That should grab the attention of anyone who has been in your situation so we can get you sorted out. I'd be really interested in finding out myself! Don't get discouraged, though, we will figure out a way!

The tops of the shoulder bells should be barely touching the outer edge of the shoulder bridge/strap but should not overlap it. Once you bring down the shoulder bells they should cover more of the bicep, as it looks like you have quite a bit of it showing. I realize this is a test-fitting, but the cover strip should face the front. You may also want to raise them a bit, as it looks like the return edge at the bottom will cut into you when you bend your arm. (Green arrow).

If by WIP you mean "work in progress" in regards to the build thread I suggest doing it here on the FISD and the UKG site. We have a lot of knowledgeable people here, and so do they. All of us are more than ready to help in any way we can.

Looking AWESOME, Shaun.. that belt came out perfect! Before attaching it to your ab, try to make sure that the top of the ABS belt covers the bottom of the ab-button panel. With your attention to detail I get the distinct feeling that you will be aiming for Centurion level, () and that is one of the requirements. If you are still planning on tinkering with the ears, if possible the bottoms should be moved back a bit. Ideally, the screws should line up with the rear angle of the trap as seen below. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your build!

Welcome to the FISD, Jared! As Shaun mentioned, that costume is based on ROTJ armor, which differs slightly from ANH/ESB. I would suggest getting in touch with Sskunky or TM who are 2 of our "vetted" sellers and make truly outstanding ROTJ kits. You can PM Sskunky directly by clicking here: @sskunky or TM here: @troopermaster Avoid anything you see on ebay or the like.... trust me. Always feel free to ask any questions you like, and know that we are here for you every step of the way!

Welcome to the true home of shiny white armor, Daniel! As Chris mentioned, a build thread will be your best friend on your TK journey. You can (and should) post as many questions as you like along with LOTS of photos of your progress! This also allows you to get advice for any issues that may arise, (we all had them). One thing I always suggest is that during your build, if you are unsure about something always, always ask before cutting or gluing and include a pic of the area in question. Trust me. There are a ton of great folks in the UKG, and depending on your location there may be someone who can help you on a local level, so I would recommend adding the city you live in to your FISD account setting. We are here for ya', and I look forward to watching your progress!

I would wait until you have the rest of the upper armor complete before tackling those, Jonas. That way, you can see how they are going to fit with your chest/back/biceps done and in place. When it's time to fit them, just use tape to make sure they are going to be good to go. (They should be).

If you are around 5'10 and 160 lbs, @TheDon has one for sale that is actually 90% complete. I have known him (Joe) for years and have actually watched him work on this kit. For the price he is asking it is an absolute steal. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47670-fs-kb-props-fotk-90-complete/

Yeah, it looks like it got over-trimmed, but not to worry. The arc on the bottom is different and should be opened up to match the other one, but that is easily solved with a hot-water bath. You have the one shown in the second photo as the left side, correct? (The "swoop" should face forward).

The one shown on the left should be good, depending on how much space there is between the edges of the bells and the chest/back plates. The one on the right looks to be over-trimmed a bit, but may be salvageable. Can you post a pic showing side/bottom views?