justjoseph63

If you mean the actual Mandalorian character, when eventually added to the 501st roster it would more than likely be in the Bounty Hunters Guild. https://thebhg.net/

Absolutely correct. As stated there are differences, even within the same film (ANH) there are Stunt TKs and Hero TKs. Checking the CRls will explain them in detail, but for visual references I have a thread here which will help:

For most parts you can fit them yourself... a roll of blue painter's tape and a full length mirror will be your best friends for this. It does help to have someone when getting fully kitted up, but is not a 100% necessity. I would highly suggest starting your own build thread, and here is why: 1. You can ask as many questions as you like. As Erick stated, "No question is stupid or unimportant" and you will get more responses. 2. You can (and should) post progress pictures, and lots of them! This especially helps when you have an issue. Seeing an actual photo makes it MUCH easier to help. 3. Keeping everything in one thread helps you (and us) keep track of your progress. 4. Since others may have a similar issue or question it can help them as well. One thing to keep in mind is that building a quality set of armor takes time. Like all of us, I'm sure you want to get it done and start trooping, but rushing leads to mistakes. When in doubt, always measure twice (or more), and ask for advice before cutting. Consider this a marathon and not a sprint and you will come out with a truly spectacular set of TK armor.

Well stated, Erick. You hit the nail right on the head with that advice!!

Here is my question on these... If Biker Scouts can have those cool speeders that hover above the ground and can reach ridiculous acceleration, why are we stuck with a vehicle that has treads? (Fun though they may be).

How's that?

One important thing: If you post your photo(s) here on the FISD using imgur, you must leave them in your Gallery. If you delete them from your Gallery, they can/will disappear from here as well.

DANG those look awesome, Jonas! So glad to see no return edges!

Welcome to the FISD, Alan! As you have probably realized, there is a ton of information here but we are here to help every step of the way, so always feel free to ask any questions you may have. I have a few links under my signature image below that may help.

Try imgur.com It is AWESOME, easy and best of all free!

Good eye, Ryan! The right side needs of the canvas belt needs to be lowered a bit. Although acceptable for Level 2, the ABS belt should be raised at least to the yellow line, but preferably the green one.

Armor Master.

Hi James, and thanks for your application! Unfortunately, before proceeding we will need some additional photos, and there are a few items that will need to be addressed before we can move you along, sir! 1. As per the CRL for Level 2, the Hovi tip screens must be of a wide mesh and not be recessed. 2. In the photo below, it does not appear that you have the"Han" snap on the chest plate. Although this particular element is not a requirement for Level 2, we would like to see a pic of it for the review. Please post up a close up of the ab plates, including the ab-button plates. You have the basics nailed down for a Centurion set of armor here, James. One thing I would suggest for that is to raise your ABS belt quite a bit. As per the CRL for Level 3: The top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels You got this, sir. Your build on this set of armor is awesome... just a few small fixes and a couple of photos and we will see that Expert Infantry badge under your name sooner than you think!

Hi Alan! As you may be aware, this is an AM kit, and as an owner of 2 of them I can tell you that you that they are TOP NOTCH! Heavy duty and designed to last for sure... tons of troops with no cracks or yellowing issues. You may have to do some additional trimming to fit your particular size, but know that we are here to help at every step of the way, My suggestion at this point would be to start your own build thread in this area: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/80-anh-build-threads/, once you receive your kit, that way you can ask all the questions you want as well as post up pics of your progress! Hopefully you will be aiming to Centurion level for higher screen accuracy, but even if not we are here for ya' all the way to 501st approval! There are links to some tutorials under my signature below that may help on your white armor journey, and again, always feel free to ask any questions!

I just posted up a thread this morning which may help for your journey to Centurion, Jonas: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/, It contains info. on what we will be looking for when you apply, but keep those questions and photos coming!

Looks like he does mostly Clone troopers, not TKs, Martin. You may want to inquire over at their Detachment: https://501stclonetroopers.com/

HOLSTER ANH Stunt, Hero Stunt: For Basic approval and above, straps are affixed to the rear of the canvas belt using two fasteners, (rivets, snaps or Chicago screws). One on each side located toward the bottom. Holster is worn on the left side. Note: Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, for Level 3 the straps must be natural leather (tan) in color Hero: For Basic approval and above, straps are affixed to the rear of the canvas belt using four fasteners, (rivets, snaps or Chicago screws) . Two on each side spaced equally apart. Holster is worn on the left side. Note: Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, for Level 3 the straps must be natural leather (tan) in color. Han Luke ESB For Basic approval, Holster is affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners) and is worn on the right side. Note: Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, for Level 3 the straps must be black in color. ROTJ For Basic approval, holster is attached via straps behind the belt using rivets, snaps or Chicago screws, one on each strap located in the center. Note: Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, for Level 3 the straps must be black in color. Note: It will not affect approval at any level, but be aware that the straps for the ROTJ holster are a little longer that those seen in ANH and ESB.

BOOTS ANH Stunt/Hero ESB For Level 2, there is no seam present on the front of the boots and they have black soles. Please see CRL for more info on Basic approval. ROTJ For Level 2, there is no seam present on the front of the boots. For Level 3, boot soles shall be white, off white or have the sides painted** white. **not the bottoms of course, just the sides. Special shout-out to Glen (gmrhodes13) for the above ROTJ images!

THERMAL DETONATOR ANH Stunt/Hero ESB For Basic level: 1. Total length is approximately 7.5 inches (190 mm). 2. The raised ribbed section faces the rear, with the round washer detail closest to the right end cap. 3. Vertical (straight) sections of the clips do not extend below the bottom of the canvas belt. 4. End caps shall be approximately 20 mm in width. For Level 2: 1. Clips shall be attached with slotted type flat or dome-head screws, and be black (two per clip). V-head or Philips screws are not permitted. 2. Clips are positioned with little or no gap between the clips and end caps. IMPORTANT: Please observe that the screws closest to the face plate are positioned toward the top of the clip, and that the ends are square and not rounded. Notes: The top of the TD should should sit level (or slightly) higher than the top of the canvas belt. If worn in lieu of the TD (Hero only) the grappling hook box is located at the rear and positioned on the wearer's right. ROTJ For Basic and Level 2 approval, the TD can have ANH details on the face plate, but for Level 3 the TD must have the correct ROTJ details. Although not a requirement, for those aiming for screen accuracy please note that the TD clips are more narrow than those seen in ANH/ESB, being closer to 5/8" (15 mm) wide rather than 1 inch (25 mm).

THIGHS/LOWER LEG ARMOR ANH Stunt/Hero ESB THIGHS For Basic approval, cover strip must end at the top of the lower ridge in front and back. For Level 2 it is suggested that any gaps between the lower ridges be filled or white ABS placed behind them. For Level 3 any gaps must be filled or white ABS strips placed behind them. Front views Back views For Level 2, The thigh ammo belt is attached with one solid head rivet on each side, painted white, and located in the upper corner fastened to the lower thigh ridge. Rivets shall be cap or split style rivets. No pop rivets are allowed. Rivets should be approximately 5/16ths (8mm) in diameter (exterior). NOTE: Although not specifically listed in the CRL, in order to remain true to the "spirit" of screen accuracy and a better overall look we have historically insisted that the following issue be required for Level 3 approval: Back edges of ammo pack need to be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear. Other Notes: 1. Please note that while the ammo packs of most most TKs were raised in the front and covered the front ridge, this is not a requirement for any level but is suggested. LOWER LEG ARMOR For Level 2, the outside cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note cover strip placement in photos 3-4 Left Right For Level 2 the sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners, and must be aligned with the ridges of the shin. NOTE: For a more screen accurate look, it is suggested that the top of the rear ridge of the sniper plate be aligned with the top ridge of the calf. Also note that the sides of the top of the plate are angled rather than curved. MOBILITY CUTS Although the vast majority of Troopers did not have them, a few had "Mobility" cuts in the bottom the rear thigh ridge and top of the rear calves to allow for better movement. If present, for Level 3 these must not extend beyond the raised edge of the rear thigh ridge or the bottom of the rear calf ridge. ROTJ IMPORTANT: As per the the CRL for this costume, for Level 3 cover strips are not permitted. Bicep, forearm, thigh and calf connections must use the overlap construction method. Sniper knee plate For Level 2, knee plate shall have one rivet on both sides, painted white and located below the ridge. Note: that while the above examples show the placement of the rivet, for Level 2 approval they must be painted white. Thigh ammo pack For Level 2, the thigh ammo pack is attached with pop rivets, (not split or cap rivets) painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. It may have an extra rivet in the front, located at the top between the second and third boxes on the wearer's right.

GLOVES-HAND GUARDS ANH Stunt/Hero GLOVES For Level 2, gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves and be black. Fingers may be textured or non textured. HAND GUARDS For Level 3, hand guards shall be latex or latex-like (flexible), solid white or painted white, and affixed to gloves with no visible strapping or stitching. NOTE: For Hero costumes, a different shape of hand guards is acceptable. Often called "alternative" or "Hero" style, (the bottom ridge is straight instead of curved and the overall shape/design on top is slightly different), these were worn by Han Solo in several scenes, although in some scenes he is wearing one of each style. There are several Stunt TKs seen wearing these as well, but these are only acceptable for Hero costumes. ESB/ROTJ GLOVES For Level 2, gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves in black, but may also be be black silk, satin or silk-like material. All Are acceptable. HAND GUARDS: For Level 2, these shall be clam shell (snowtrooper) style, and not the trapezoidal design (ANH) . A: If rubber gloves are used, the hand guards are affixed via an elastic strap over the palm. B: If silk or satin gloves are used, the hand guards shall have the correct visible stitching pattern using black thread, with a 5 point/star pattern equally spread out with 2 on each side and 1 in the middle front, double stitched at each point.

BICEPS/FOREARMS ANH Stunt/Hero ESB ROTJ NOTES ON BICEPS: In the original films, many of the biceps had an indentation, or "thumbprint" (normally worn only on the left) on the inside. As the biceps are interchangeable, this is not a requirement for any level. Biceps should be strapped/worn in a way that does not allow them to ride too low or high. Due to variations in trooper height, they can be adjusted up or down as needed for a better appearance as long as the gaps between the bicep and forearm/forearm and hand guards are even and symmetrical. FOREARMS: For Level 3, no return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Return edge must be completely removed, especially in the "hump" area as seen in the reference images below. NOTE: For an "ideal look" the forearm and bicep cover strips should line up, especially when standing still (arms at side). This is suggested, but not required.

SHOULDER BELLS ANH Stunt/Hero NOTE: Although not specifically listed in the CRL, in order to remain true to the "spirit" of screen accuracy and a better overall look we have historically insisted that the following issue be required for Level 3 approval: The top of the shoulder bell should touch (or be very close to) the edge of the shoulder bridge For Level 3, there should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. ESB For Level 3, no bicep hooks are permitted. Note: Shoulder bells are interchangeable. However, note that many (but not all of) the originals contained a "swoop" (slight curvature on one side) at the bottoms, which should ideally face the front. Some armor makers have incorporated this detail into their molds, but some have not and many times troopers get them backward. This is not a requirement at any level. <--- Front ROTJ For Level 2 and above, shoulder bells are rounded at (lower) corners and are interchangeable. For Level 3, bells have foam inside, are slightly pinched and worn slightly higher**, compared to ANH/ESB ** Not as flush against the biceps.

BELT (Canvas - ABS) and DROP BOXES ANH STUNT, Hero, ESB Canvas belt For Basic approval- Belt must be made of canvas or material with a canvas covering. Must be 2.75" (70mm) to 3.25" (83mm) wide, and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt. Must be white/off white, (not beige). For level 3 approval: 1. In order to fully support the holster/E-11 the canvas belt must be firm/sturdy in appearance (no wrinkling or sagging). 2. Canvas belts can not contain patches of any sort. Notes: The bottom of the canvas belt should ideally sit above the bottom of the kidney plate and not overlap the kidney/posterior plate connection. A little fraying is to be expected, but excessive fraying is not (as seen below) and needs to be trimmed. NOTE: This is not a screen used belt. ROTJ Soft belt is not made of canvas like ANH/ESB, but is instead tightly woven cordura like/style or a material with a tightly woven nylon/cordure style covering and is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wide. Narrower than ANH/ESB. ABS Belt ANH Stunt, Hero, ESB For Level 3, the corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. Example For Level 3, the top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels. A slight overlap is suggested, but not required. Note: Comlinks are worn only with Hero armor. Although not a requirement at any level, if worn they should ideally be placed behind the rear ammo box on the wearer's left. ROTJ For Level 2: 1. There are 2 rivets, one on each side of the ammo belt, connecting it to the soft belt underneath. 2. There are no square buttons covering the belt rivets. 3. Corners of ABS ammo belt are cut at right angles (Not 45 degrees as in ANH/ESB) DROP BOXES ANH Stunt/Hero, ESB, ROTJ For Level 3**, Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. ** For ROTJ this is a requirement at Level 2 For Level 3, Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

AB/KIDNEY/POSTERIOR PLATES ANH Stunt/Hero ESB Ab buttons/plates: Although not specifically listed in the CRL, the following item (underlined below) is often overlooked by during the build/painting process, and while not required at any level it is highly recommended to improve the overall look of the armor. AB button plates should ideally be squared (not rounded) at the corners and be trimmed to where the actual plate is inside the ridge area it is mounted to as seen below. Reference images Level 3 Requirements: The paint does not extend to the bottom of the actual raised button. The large ab plate is a separate piece that is attached to the raised area below it. Plate does not overlap the edges of this area and shows a straight cut line on all sides. Incorrect Correct Level 3 ab buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor. No separate buttons are allowed. Note: As seen in the photos below, the ab plate buttons on SDS armor do not meet this requirement as sent from the mfr. and the plates must be replaced for L3 approval. For Level 3, ideally there is no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Be aware that although not specifically listed in the CRL, this is a requirement for Centurion and may require shimming. Please also note how the tops of the ab/kidney connection are level. For Level 3, three domed head bifurcated (split) rivets approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter are present on the left side of the abdomen and kidney and are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and are painted white. Note that the measurements are from the center of the rivet. Rivets on both kidney and ab should line up horizontally. Diagram by Billhag Split (bifurcated) rivet Interior pic showing the rear side of the split (bifurcated) rivets Sometimes referred to as the "Han" snap, for Level 3 a single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present. Note in the photos that it is the bottom of the snap that faces outward and is not painted. For Level 3, a single split rivet is present on the lower tab of the abdomen armor (cod) This can have a brass or chrome finish, but cannot be painted. Posterior (butt) armor For Level 3, two male snaps are present on the lower center tab of the posterior armor. Note in the photos that snaps are not painted. Paint is accepted for Basic approval, but can not be present for Level 2 and above and the finish must be chrome or nickel in color. The back (rear/flat) part of the snap must face outward. Ideally, the posterior and kidney plates should be flush at the connection, but in many cases there is a misalignment where the posterior plate sticks out (often referred to as"trooper butt"). Most of the time this is a strapping issue, and depending on the severity you may be asked to minimize it at Level 3. ROTJ Ab button plates Note how large plate is inverted as compared to ANH/ESB. For the purposes of this post I have taken the liberty of adding the colors in on this screen used set to clarify the CRL. Black may be substituted for Charcoal gray. Note: There are no split rivets on the ab/kidney connection and no rivet on the cod as seen in ANH/ESB. However, for Level 3 "there shall be one visible snap on the crotch tab of the posterior plate, painted white".