justjoseph63

The bucket will come with all the correct hardware from Dave, so all you should need are the split rivets for the ab/kidney. I don't sell the snaps, but if you like I can send you a set of the correct rivets (including washers) and TD (Thermal Detonator) screws for $3.00 plus $4.00 postage (They have to be sent as a package, but it includes tracking). Just PM me if interested.

Definitely before. Nice job on the ammo pack and sniper knee trimming! Unless you are getting a crease in between the boxes when you bend it, the thigh ammo pack shouldn't need a hot water bath, as once secured it doesn't get moved or flex. As I mentioned in my post from Nov. 20th, check the length on the sides to make sure it's an equal distance from the rear ridge corners. You can trim down the width if needed to achieve this. Post up some pics of you are not sure!

To be honest, although it takes a bit of time and effort making your own is really not that difficult. The various sizes/lengths of nylon webbing, elastic and snaps can be purchased either online (like ebay) or at a craft store like Joanne Fabrics or Michael's. I have the list of materials you will need in my Supplies thread and a tutorial here. I know at one time Sarah @Alay was selling a whole pre-made kit, but you may want to contact here to make sure those are still available.

I would steer well clear of the one from Hytech Toyz, Alan. I bought on years ago (I doubt they have changed much, if any), used it one time and tossed it. Many troopers do well with a 10 watt Aker amp and a headset (or throat style) microphone. It doesn't change your voice too much, but is solid and reliable.

As Arthur mentioned, using the bracket (also known as the "classic") system (photo 1) is not a requirement for Centurion level. Most of us use the nylon straps (photo 2)now which will get you all the way to level 3. There are lots of troopers out there who prefer to be more screen accurate, and although Darren is no longer making the sets they should be available at Trooperbay: https://trooperbay.com/costuming-supplies/hardware/stormtrooper-sandtrooper-full-bracket-set

It may just be me, but I never quite understood why long-range heavy blaster rifles (DLT-19s) were stored/available in a fairly small area like a Detention Block instead of being in a weapons locker. This sort of thing keeps me up at night.

Awesome idea, Brien, and THANKS! Added to the list.

You will be more than pleased with a kit from ATA, Caleb. Nice clean lines/details, superb quality and fantastic customer service. Although the 2mm thickness can be slightly more difficult to work with, it will last for many, many years and is well worth it IMO.

IB are great boots but run a bit snug for sure, so like Rat mentioned order a size larger than you usually wear. I also recommend keeping shoe stretchers in them while not in use. as damp leather can tend to shrink as it dries. I use the kind with the springs as seen below.

Welcome to the FISD, JP! If it's a Hero build you are going for, for quality you really can't beat the armor/helmet from Paul at TM @troopermaster. Don't worry about being a "Newbie/rookie".. we were all there at one time! Yes there is a ton of information here, and to get many (if not most) of your initial questions answered I suggest this area: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/ BUT, you are always welcomed and encouraged to ask us about anything. It's kinda' what we do here!

Have you tried reaching out to Tony directly? He is a solid seller and I'm sure he will do what he can for you.

Nice job, Eric... always fantastic to see another ROTJ headed toward the ranks!! There are a couple of items I noticed which may affect your Basic approval. 1. It may be the photo, but your belt looks to be made of canvas and a bit wider than the 2.5 inch maximum allowed for Basic. For Level 1, it must be made of a tightly woven nylon/cordura material or covered with that material. 2. Depending on your GML, they may ask you to align the kidney/ab plate connection. Raising the kidney/posterior plate may do the trick. 3. Again, it may depend on your GML. but your biceps are sitting pretty far down. The shoulder bells should ideally overlap the tops (at least a bit). A gap between the shoulder bell/chest plate is fine, especially on ROTJ as the bells are more pinched at the tops but the gaps should be nearly symmetrical on both sides for a better look. Not that it will affect approval, but if your belt does end up needing to be changed out, I suggest re-positioning the holster straps. Best of luck on your approval, and let us know when you get that official TK number!!

Very few of the ears in ANH actually sat flush, James. Disparities like this are pretty common-place, but if you want to advance in the ranks of a TD they get very precise on the details.

Trooperbay sells them pre-made, but you can also make your own. Supplies can be purchased online fairly inexpensively and although it takes some time, they are not too difficult to make. I have a list of materials in my Supply List thread below as well as a link to tutorial on how to make them (Snap setting 101).

Over the years, the CRLs for levels 2 and 3 have evolved and changed, especially with the advent of better screen captures and original armor images. We can see things now that simply weren't available years ago, so the requirements for Expert Infantry, Centurion and even Basic approval have gotten more precise over time. Without going back and viewing all the CRL change discussions (EIB started in 2006) over the years and seeing the images.. most were on Photobucket and are now impossible to see that would be a monumental task, Caleb. I agree, it would be interesting reading, though!

As the Boy Scout motto says, "Be prepared". In most cases, if taken care of a well built set of armor should last a long, long time. Inspecting the various components before an event is suggested, but when the inevitable "Oh crap" moments occur having things at-the-ready can really help. Not just for you, but for a fellow trooper as well! The following is a list of suggested items to have with you for "wardrobe malfunctions" which happen to many of us during a troop. I'm not saying you have to have each and every item shown below, so the choices are yours for what to include. 1. Gaffer's ("gaffa") tape (white/2" (5 cm) wide: This is a heavy cotton cloth tape with great adhesive properties, and is widely used in theatre, film and television productions. Although strong, it can be torn by hand as needed, leaves little or no residue and will generally not damage most surfaces. If you look closely, it was used a LOT in the first SW films, and is a good temporary fix for cracks/splits. -- alternatively -- 2. Duct tape (white/2" (5 cm) wide: Everyone knows it has a powerful adhesive property and super strength, but it leaves behind a strong, sticky residue which can be difficult to remove, especially if left on for extended periods. Rubbing alcohol, Goo Gone or even cooking oil can remove it, but it is not easy so therefore is not suggested. In case you have a strapping issue (snaps pop out, strap disconnects from an armor piece, etc.) it's not a huge deal if you are prepared. Installing/setting snaps in the field is not always possible (unless you have a hammer/snap setting device) and can take time. Though temporary, a quicker alternative is to use nylon strapping (you probably have a few feet left over from your build) cut to length with Velcro (cut to size) in lieu of the snaps. 3. Black 2" (5 cm) wide nylon strapping 2' (60 cm) long: Black 1" (2.5 cm) wide nylon strapping 2' (60 cm) long. Industrial Strength Velcro *** (2" x 4" sections) *** Although very strong, it will a leave residue from the adhesive backing. This can be removed from your armor with Goo-Gone or a similar product. NOTE: If you want to be extra prepared, having lengths of other materials (nylon.elastic, white Velcro etc.) used in your build are encouraged. 4. CA (Super) Glue (Single use sizes) 5. Zip-Kicker I am not a fan of using CA glue on any armor part, but in an emergency it can certainly come in handy. If needed, I highly suggest using the GEL type, as it will not run like the regular type does. Available at most craft and "Dollar" stores. Zip Kicker is an accelerant that will set CA glue instantly. There are other name brands, but I used this one as an example. Available in a spray or aerosol. 6. Razor knife 7. Lexan scissors 8. Sanding sponge Having a sharp razor knife on hand will come in handy for many things, including cutting strapping, Velcro, etc. For safety, I recommend the folding type as seen below, and always have a new blade in it. Dull blades are useless. Be CAREFUL when cutting. As TKs, we are not known for our shooting accuracy, especially when missing our trigger finger. Lexan scissors are great for cutting/trimming ABS, especially if you need to cut shims for cracks/splits (see below). Do NOT use these to cut Industrial Strength Velcro. The adhesive will gum up the blades. A sanding sponge is perfect to have in case you need to smooth out any rough edges that may be cutting into you or snagging your under suit. Scrap ABS A piece of scrap ABS about 2" x 6" can be used to make emergency shims for cracks. Just cut it to the width/length needed and CA glue it to the inside of the affected area. 9. USB battery charger/power supply 10. Batteries Whether you use the rechargeable USB type or regular type for your fan system, etc. having a backup is always a good idea. 11. Screwdriver (multi-bit) 12. Small pliers Although these may only be needed for those with the "classic" strapping system, they can be used to tighten helmet screws and such. I have loaned mine to those with costumes from Lord Vader to Boba Fett on troops. It's better to "have em' and not need em' than need em' and not have em'". I have the "stubby" type screwdriver as seen below, as it takes up less room and all the bits are stored in the handle. 13. Lens de-fogger Even if using a good fan system in your bucket, you can still get fogged lenses. Not only is it annoying, it's dangerous, as our field of vision is not the best to begin with. You can purchase a product designed to prevent this, or (as I do) rub a bit of shaving cream (foam type) inside and polish it out before each troop. Your choice. 14. Magic Eraser 15. Paint pens For minor scuffs on shiny white armor the Magic erasers really do the trick. A single one will last a LONG time. Paint pens are a quick and easy fix for deeper scratches in your armor (white) or touch-ups on the ear bumps, etc. (black). I suggest the Acrylic type (not the oil based) paint as it can be more easily removed if/when needed. 16. Adhesive bandages It happens. Cuts, armor bite, blisters, etc. I suggest having a few of each in various sizes, especially as they don't take up much room. 17. Disinfecting wipes Let's face it. We wear compression suits and plastic so we sweat, and sweat can smell bad. To keep my bin from having the aroma of a gym locker I use these to wipe down my armor before putting it away after each use. Your fellow trooping mates (and the public) will thank you. 18: Cleaner/Polish No Matter how careful you are with your armor, you are going to get scratches or scuffs. It happens. One way of dealing with it is to use a product that cleans and shines all at one time. Although I have not used it (yet), this product has high reviews: Link and reviews here. Thank you to Greg @Oldracer for this tip! Now, there are a lot of other items that I have seen people carry.... electrical tape, a hammer, snap setting tool, safety pins, files, etc. It all depends on your particular needs and how much room you have, but most of the above items will fit together in a medium sized plastic container. Please feel free to add anything that you feel may help, and happy trooping!

Exactly as Glen said. Fortunately, Anovos paint looks to be applied on the thin side with no ridges, so it's probably safe to just go right over it

Sweet bucket, Dan. Looking forward to seeing some progress pics!

This is the one many of us use, Peter: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-37-in-Rolling-Tool-Box-Utility-Cart-Black-209261/203668066 It will hold everything, including your bucket! I always carry a supply of the tiny "one use" CA (super) glue tubes as well as Zip Kicker (it cures CA glue on contact) for emergency repairs. Extra batteries, and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser works wonders on armor scuffs.

As per the CRL for Basic approval, paint does not leave the teeth area brother. Last item before we can move on!

Before gluing the sniper knee on, remember that those holes will need to be filled with a dab of ABS paste. Better (and easier) to do this before attaching it. When filling them, place a piece of painter's tape behind them first. Otherwise, the paste will drip right through the hole. Hint: Only use a DROP of the paste... just enough to fill the hole(s). Saves you a lot of time when it comes to sanding them down level. After sanding, a few minutes with some scratch remover and a quick polish and you are golden.

You are very welcome, Jonas! You can trim off all of the lower edge, which will allow it to sit a lot closer to the front of the calf.

That's sure what it looks like, and that would certainly make sense. It could very well be the angle of the image, but to me at least there seems to be a few differences. Among other things, the tear looks to have a deeper swoop and the front (bottom) is shorter and has a curve. The frown also has a straighter line at the top and the angle seems different. Again, it could be the odd positioning that's throwing me off.

Tops should be trimmed down a bit to better match these--------------------------------------------------> Reference images May poke you! PERFECTION! Be aware that the back edges of ammo pack need to be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear as seen below. You can trim the length if needed.

Don't let it get overwhelming. Just ask questions! Have a look here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/ Holsters are shown/described in the last post.