justjoseph63

Since the EI/Centurion certificates have no designation (Hero, Stunt, etc.) only one is issued per trooper, sir. Besides, if you got one for each approval you'd run out of wall space!

I bought the TRamp system about 6 months ago, and to be honest I could not be more disappointed. Waited much longer than expected, (communication with the seller was spotty: "I'm backed up, it should ship soon)". Now, for my $250.00 investment I can say 4 pre-recorded phrases with it, which comes out to about $72.50 per sentence. I have followed all instructions to the letter, but that's all I can get. I have a friend who works on computers, and even after an hour he could only change one phrase. Bearing in mind that I am a complete novice when it comes to computer skills, although it is possible to add more phrases I am lost when it comes to how to actually do it. If anyone can help, I would be most appreciative. Remember the words complete novice, but think more along the lines of computer illiterate, lol.

No, I didn't forget about your request for use of the Praetorian CQB blaster, I just didn't want it to be a part of your review. Here is the deal: Although it is definitely a cool BFG, unfortunately it is a newer weapon that is not seen in the game that this particular costume is based on and not listed in the CRL so we cannot grant approval at this time. BUT, in saying that, what weapon you choose to carry during a troop is up to you. I haven't seen this particular blaster before... was it custom made just for you? I noticed that you also have a sharp looking DLT-19! As a fellow accuracy nut, I would suggest the following change if the mood ever strikes you: 1. The butt stocks in ANH were actually brown. The comparison photo is of one that sold at auction back in 2012 for a little over $110,000.00 and was one of two used in the film with a Bakelite (plastic) stock. The others had wooden butt stocks, as seen in the detention block scene (third photo). 2. If you look closely, you will see that the T-tracks are actually reinforced with a thin piece of wire at each end. A simple task that would make your weapon look a lot closer to screen used. 3. If you plan on using this mostly for your Hero, I wouldn't worry too much about weathering, but if you plan on carrying it with your upcoming HWT some weathering would look more in line. Painting the stock to look like wood is actually pretty easy. My DLT-19 is a 3D printed model,and I can give you some tips on how to do it if you like (just PM me).

Hi Ardeshir, and thank you for your third EI submission! In the following review I will be going over a few items pertaining to your current submission, as well as those that will be required for Centurion level should you choose to apply. Let's dive into the deep end and get started! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of myself and the entire D.O.Team, Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. There were a few items mentioned after your initial post that would certainly give you a better overall appearance. The first being the small ab-button plate. Is it passable for level 3? Technically yes, but to be honest we'd really like to see it trimmed down and the edges squared off. It should be fairly simple to pop off and do this. Reference image Next up are the TD clips. As seen in the reference image the ends are squared, have no curve, and the outer screws are set closer to the end of the clip. Again, is it passable at L3? In a word, yes. Would we like to see this look closer to screen used? Absolutely. Reference image Although the rest of your cover-strip placements are textbook. the left thigh top has a small issue. The ridge on the inside juts out at an angle giving it an awkward appearance and throwing off the symmetry. It would be a bit of a pain, but we would REALLY like to see that corrected, brother, and with your armor building experience and know-how this should be a piece of cake! Reference images Side note: Although this item does not affect approval in any way, I see that you added a shim to the inside of the neck opening on the chest piece. EXCELLENT idea, and one I always recommend for Anovos armor, as it it is prone to crack in that area. If I could make a suggestion, it would be to add the same type of reinforcement to the areas seen in blue below, where the return edges are also likely to crack/split. Trust me on this one. Hint: Use one long single piece for each area to prevent ant weak spots. Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper. As has been discussed earlier, all your ear screws will need to be replaced with the same type you used on your Hero bucket (flat-head slotted countersunk). Easy fix! Reference images Although it is SO close, the outer front edge of your left drop box needs to come back just a bit. Remember, Centurion is all about those small details! Reference images Last up, another item that I mentioned earlier on. The backs of the thigh ammo pack need to sit evenly on both sides of the raised ridge at the rear. Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, we must take screen references into account when doing a review. This issue will take a little more work, as the rivet hole will need to be filled with ABS paste, sanded and polished. It's easier than you think, and I've seen your determination and tenacity for accuracy, so I'm certain the end result will look spectacular! Reference images So there you have it, brother... a THIRD EI approval under your belt... something to be incredibly proud of! Note that while I am glad that you submitted this awesome armor and had it approved, you have already attained Centurion status as a Stunt TK so your profile will not change. BUT, after following your recent posts I get the distinct impression that you will be using this set of armor for HWT!! (I personally hope so)!

Overall your fitting looks to be spot-on, Scott. The only thing that I see that concerns me is that the backs of the thighs appear to be way too wide (first photo). The rear tops of the thighs should be much closer to your leg and the bottom of the posterior plate. I know that you have glued the cover strips on and it may be a pain to do, but from a comfort standpoint I would seriously consider removing the rear cover strips, trimming down the return edges completely, re-sizing them to fit better and then re-attaching the strips. The thread that Glen gave you a link to will give you more info. on why I recommend this. Keep up the great work, and keep those photos coming!!!!

¡Realmente puedes hacerlo tú mismo, José! Haga clic en su apodo actual en la parte superior derecha de la página y vaya a "Account settings". Busque "Display Name" y seleccione "Change".

Definitely enamel, Dain. Hopefully you will be aiming for level 3 (Centurion) but even if you aren't, for closer screen accuracy I would highly suggest following the CRL for that requirement which states that the ab-button paint "shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button". Note on the screen used one below how there is a small space below the painted area. To make painting these areas easier, I suggest using a "filbert" style bush. The rounded end will give you a lot more control.

I can't wait for everyone to see this so that I can comment. SO many things to discuss!

I'm no expert by far, but judging from the size, position of the lenses and matte finish it appears to me as if it's cast from the "undersized" mold he made used to create the Standard size (not the full size/Deluxe version) helmet. The undersized mold is what Rubies started using when they took over production. Does it have a stamp of any sort on it in it?

Really REALLY nice job, Chris, and outstanding job on that armor weathering! If I could make a suggestion, it would be to either wear the leather strap on the outside of your pauldron, or, you could do like that handsome devil in the second pic () and lengthen the strap. Either way it would make it easier to bring them up to "look through" them.

Almost done, sir, but I am a bit confused about something, (although it wouldn't be the first time, lol). Bear in mind that it could very well be the photo angle, but in looking at your right shoulder bridge where it is attached to your chest plate (first photo) it appears that the ridges are all the same size and that there is no large(r) front tab. However, in looking at the second photo up close it appears that the front tab is present. The third photo shows the left side and looks spot-on. The fourth photo shows your other set of Anovos as the tab should look. Can you do me a big favor and post up one last pic showing both shoulder bridge/chest plate connections? Thanks!!!!

Looks GREAT!! The connecting line (see arrow) is a bit askew, but this is no biggie. As long as your cover strips have an equal amount of space on both sides you are golden!

Haven't forgotten about you, sir, and will be with you shortly!!

My pleasure, sir! I'm now following this thread, and it's great to see someone taking the time to do these changes for sure. I am jumping the gun a bit, but be sure to keep some of the scrap ABS. The reason being is that you will need it to make some ABS paste (easy to do) to fill the holes in the sniper knee plate and maybe another area. That part will also need some trimming, so be sure to post up pics during the whole process. You can do this, and we will help!

Nice job, Jonas! Before gluing on the cover strips, I would suggest that you trim/sand down the parts that are sticking out (red lines). You can then cut the cover strips at angles and bring up all the way to the top. Be sure to sand down the tops of the cover strip corners to round them off a bit as well. Keep those photos coming!

Just as Dan suggested, you should try adjusting the face plate. In the first photo you pretty much nailed it, but in the second one the face plate looks to have shifted. Keep up the great work!!

If I could make one suggestion, Don, it would be to add some reinforcements in the areas shown in blue below. The Anovos chest pieces have quite a history of developing cracks there, so if you add them now you can avoid the repairs later. The easiest way to do it is to use some scrap ABS strips (at least 1/4 inch wide), cut them into curves to follow the contour and attach them with E-6000. If you do this, be sure to use one continuous strip in each area to avoid any weak spots.

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for posting this, Rich. Incredibly informative, and well worth watching!

A foam brush may not be able to hold much of the product on it, but you can certainly give it a try. I would suggest a 2 inch wide "chip brush" which you can pick up at Lowe's or Home Depot. Cheap, effective, and disposable. For some more detailed info., you can also check out the FAQ section toward the bottom of the page here: https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/

You can, but you need to be careful. The brush-on type is kind of runny, and there are overlap connections inside where the cap part overlaps the face-plate and you don't want it seeping in between them too much (see photo). A little oozing is fine, as the ears and brow will cover it. I would suggest very thin layers with ample dry time in between to prevent this. As I mentioned in the previous post, sanding down and then thoroughly cleaning the entire inside is HIGHLY recommended to help it adhere to the ABS.

Good call, Dave! Although not required for basic or higher levels, this is always a good idea as this helps prevent the sharp corners from snagging on your under-suit and makes for a better look. It is also screen accurate, as seen in the photos below.

The original Stunt helmets (ANH) were made from HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene). The Hero helmets and all Stormtrooper armor were made from 1.5mm ABS. None were made from fiberglass.

This is the way I have found that works really well: I am using your discarded ABS belt as an example- 1. After measuring the width you need, use a metal ruler or straight edge and clamp it down next to your cut line (2 clamps suggested). 2. CAREFULLY using a razor knife, slowly and steadily score along the cut line as deep as it will go. 2 or 3 passes should do it NOTE: you do NOT have to cut all the way through! Once it is fairly deep you can just bend and snap it off. Depending on the length you need, you may have to move the ruler down and re-clamp. IMPORTANT! Don't make all of your lines on the ABS at one time before cutting. Cover strips have different widths for different areas, so measure one at a time. Measure each one to the length you need, sand down the sides and you are done. Hope this helps!