I haven't seen anyone offering them for sale, but they aren't hard to make, all you need is a piece of elastic, pass it through your boot hoop, fold in half, pop a snap in the end and then glue in a snap plate with snap inside the boot, done.
That is a bit of an issue and I would think it would require a replacement belt, be very difficult to hide the previous holes
When you next take photos of the updates try posting them in the new TK Pre Approval section, may save you some time
Not the news you where hoping for but mostly adjustments. It's very hard if you have someone there who takes the photos but can not see things out of place, I find a full length mirror helpful ;).
Just get a double check on the feedback of the holster connection on the belt, usually the rivet placement is towards the bottom not top of the belt as stated
Also before sending photos back perhaps try posting them in the new TK Pre Approval section, may save you some time
You will find most makes of helmets are not symmetrical and oddly shaped, even full of bumps and lumps
I would also advise touching up the paint on the teeth. Good luck with the build.
Unfortunately many promise and don't deliver and whether it be coincidence or not the timeframe to request a refund from paypal generally ends up being exceeded.
It does derail threads but sometimes it needs too, if a prop maker won't answer pm's, emails and facebook messages there are no other options.
Hopefully you will receive a refund soon, good luck.
Rustoleum I have found to be a temperamental paint.
You will get a better deeper shinny appearance with the addition of a clear coat as long as you can spray evenly and not too dry.
I prefer using automotive acrylic paint as it dries fast and is quiet strong, I coated all my TFA armor with 3 clear coats and it has held up really well and can be buffed and polished.
Some paints you can throw on it on and you think it's bound to run but it doesn't, others it can run like a waterfall at the smallest of coats.
I did use a Rustoleum satin clear to protect the weathering on a clonetrooper armor set but one can would be ok another would block constantly and come out patchy.
With the Rustoleum I would advise to test on a small piece of armor and see how it goes, also test how much you can spray before it begins to run, clear coats are usually slightly different in thickness to standard paint.
Good luck and hope it works out well
Nice work, you appear to have a small gap above the backplate notch on the right side photo, but the ab and backplates are touching above that
There appears to be a wire or connector on the right side of your neck which you may have to remove.
Also looks like you may be wearing your neck seal inside your shirt, normally they are worn outside.
Good luck with approval
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Normally TK goes on first letter from movie titles TK - ANH, TK - ESB and so on, so Solo would probably be TK - S
There is weathering on helmet and chest so if it's dirty you know where it will end up
There isn't a lot of differences in Lego Stormtroopers so I wouldn't be taking too many details from these, can't wait for some screen images.
I used industrial enamel spray paints, worked well, used some humbrol for brass/copper highlighting and didn't react. Personally I prefer a satin black finish just gives a little more metal look IMO