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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About heartstopper85

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  • Birthday 03/02/1985

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  • Location
    Loveland, Colorado
  • Interests
    Star Wars, Racing, Fishing, Hiking

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  • 501st ID
  • 501st Unit
    Mountain Garrison

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  1. Lol positive reviews Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  2. that's a pretty good idea for the belt, will be interested to see how it performs in the field. Have debated adding a similar mod to jim kit because I don't like the way my belt sits
  3. sorry to hear about your luck on this armor. Shame wayne turned into the person he turned into
  4. And you can mock it up with painters tape, as a rule of thumb in future try to go to 1/2in than work from there
  5. Don't sweat under the armpit wont show much, I did one for trooper and almost had to get it flat under the armpit because of this size. I don't believe the CRL is that specific on amount of return edge. But in general it should fit and look right. Take some pics with it on along the chest and arm parts and see how it looks
  6. FYI this should be updated in the CRL soon. Came up when I was working with a trooper, we ended up having to fill the seams because the staff was new and mistook flush to mean no gaps. I would get as close as you can, and you can fill if you want but it's not needed. I have ref pics of the movie suits that have visable gaps if you need to argue your point later down the road. But if you haven't painted yet might as well just fill it in. I better not go to further, I was quite "passionate" about this section of CRL on my last FOTK I built
  7. Tops of biceps and thighs are very common sizing areas. I'm short so ended up griding away at both the top and bottom of my thighs its good chance to see if you want to do the finn mods or just make sure you reshape the thigh to look more accurate. Make sure you double check ref pics and draw out your lines and recheck before making any cuts.
  8. And you can trim the chest more as well, looks like you still have a ways to go, maybe another 1/4in or so just go slow and keep checking it
  9. In back you can get away with a bit more. I've found 1/2 in of return for the yoke works fine. I've heard of being removing more than that on the back but it's a question of form and moving verus how you want it to look. I would say that red line looks like a good cut line. Still leaves some return for that look, but you should able to move more
  10. I thought one on right was from an auction of a screen used bucket Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  11. Found out it was the indent that was different cant say I ever noticed Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  12. What was the greb the everyone missed on the bucket? I'll prob never update mine but just curious now I'm wonder also on the yoke/back connection if you can do like we are doing on the new style KB kits and make it so the yoke sits flush with the back and use Velcro or magnets to hold it down. It's certainly a different way of doing things but it does seem to work well and not needing to bondo and paint is a life saver
  13. Note all kits going out are tlj I confirmed they re did molds this is mach 3 armor tfa was mach 2 Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
  14. I use bungie cord and a piece of strapping for my boxes. More flexible that way Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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