gmrhodes13

The link in the first post appears to be active, same templates I used for my own scratch build

I'm not sure if I've mentioned it before but I made soft material pockets to go over all the separate armor pieces, a great way to reduce scratches and chips in the paint when transporting. Just don't use black fabric as I did for my first set, I didn't realize the dye may bleed and ended up with some black marks on the edges, was buffed out with polish, a long afternoon that was Having labels on each pouch helps too

Great news, good to hear you at least received something for your money. What has struck me as odd is Anovos had supplied FOTK's but obviously with money and manufacturing issues they could not supply the rest of the orders, I would think though the molds and bases of the costumes would have passed onto DN, but they seem to be concentrating on other items, god knows who'd be buying those though. I hope others see a resolution to their outstanding orders soon.

Costuming and Builds Original Trilogy and Anthology (501st Approved) ANH (Stun and Hero) Page 12 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 11 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 10 Completed - gmrhodes13

Costuming and Builds Original Trilogy and Anthology (501st Approved) ANH (Stun and Hero) Page 15 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 14 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 13 Completed - gmrhodes13

WOW that was definitely glued in there, some work to get it out. If you ever need to make some new button covers here's a great How To I've had success using a tea dye when re-coloring white, use this a lot with Tusken's, but you do need to test a few pieces to make sure you get the correct color.

Just make sure you have no return edge on the inside base of your shins, I also sand the inside if there is any lip, using several different grades of sandpaper until you get to a fine grade say 600 so you try to get that area really smooth. Even with that you can still get some rubbing, I'd say most see this over time.

What was even funnier was that picture was also used for a topps card and it wasn't noticed

Was discussed back in 2020 but unfortunately no further action was taken, hopefully this time it will be corrected

Nice fix, I find snaps just hold a lot better in places that need to be a little more secure and especially those you can't see. Although it is screen accurate, (well at least in Solo) to have your back plate hanging down

All I have in my helmet is fans and I only use one at a time, I use a separate head mike and the cord runs down my neck and and behind the chest and ab down to the large front pouch where I have the Aker amp unfortunately you don't have that pouch so you could mount your Aker behind the chest, this is what we mostly do with original trilogy stormtroopers. There are many mp3's and sound boards you could use for voice modulation or for set lines, many of these are small so you should be able to also mount the behind the chest. So many things you can do with a costume, I also have a second amp cable which runs down the arm to the blaster, most of mine have electronics and this makes them nice and loud, great for large conventions

You will find that some have had to paint their filler pieces to match the color of the armor, we see this with so many modifications, even purchasing from the same supplier there can be differences in color. If the belt was glued with E6000 a little pressure should allow the glue to separate, perhaps running a knife behind may help

Coming along nicely

I'd steer clear of using paint on a pauldron, paint does not like to be bent and folded and will crack with the slightest bend. Many already cleared have a slight color difference between the pauldron and armor paint, I would think most use a standard red vinyl and try to match the paint to that, I can't say I've seen anyone who has painted as dark a red as the game armor has. Also note that many would have just purchased a standard red colored pauldron with what was available to purchase, many don't make their own. At times what can be achieved in the real world opposed to what is seen in a game has to have some leeway and we see this with a lot of game interpretations. You can see in the CRL image the color difference between pauldron and armor I think with the new Mando version it just made sense to have the coloring the same, it's how it should have been with the game, who knows why they did the game version that way. We only have had a few higher level approved ICN's and many are from a long time ago, most under 200 in the EIB awards, here's a few of those for comparison, NOTE in the earlier ones they also added a curve to the pauldron to match the game and none had stitching, there was even an older thread on how to modify the pauldron to have a curve Once again make sure you check with your GML as they will ultimately accessing your costume for approval and they will be going on the current CRL (unless there is an update) and also check with our DO's for higher level acceptance

I compiled a list in my 15th anniversary newsletter 2006-2007 - Paul Hoeffer “Daetrin” TK8020 2007-2008 - Ed DaSilva "Exodus" TK4878 2008-2009 - Terrell Reber "SuperTrooper" TK1787 2009-2010 - Paul Hoeffer “Daetrin” TK8020 2010-2011 - Paul Hoeffer “Daetrin” TK8020 2011-2012 - Paul Hoeffer “Daetrin” TK8020 2012-2013 - Tom Gardner "RogueTrooper" TK5940 2013-2014 - Eric Brager "Darth Aloha" TK9674 2014-2015 - Mathias Rodstedt "Locitus" TK2959 2015-2016 - Eric Brager "Darth Aloha" TK9674 2016-2017 - Time Waychoff "Dark CMF" TK51878 2017-2018 - Paul Hoeffer “Daetrin” TK8020 2018-2019 - Paul Hoeffer “Daetrin” TK8020 2019-2020 - Sarah Bailey "Alay" TK20466 2020-2021 - Andrew Franke "Sly11" TK11469 2021-2022 - Andrew Franke "Sly11" TK11469 2022-2023 - Andrew Franke "Sly11" TK11469 Also a typo with @Daetrin

Real life comes first and sounds like you have had your hands full, great to see you back at it. ATA does have quite wide ears and you could trim a little more if you wanted but as you have some nice gaps now I would leave it and maybe address at a later time (or for higher approval if required) Here are a few references to show how large the gaps were on original helmets

Looking forward to seeing your photos, it's a great way of getting feedback and help

Comments posted in your build thread

You may need to remove some of the return end on the butt plate as you can see when you bend it the return edge pushes outwards. Again be careful with a heat gun, practice with scraps, you can go from just moving to molten mess in the blink of and eye, it's also a good idea to have small blocks of wood handy which you can place either side if you get any unevenness in the plastic once heated. I removed all my return edge from the bottom of the butt plate as I had seen the original armor had cracking there, this would happen when it was bent and cause strain on those areas. Once again if you don't have any return edge it shouldn't be an issue for higher approval.

You don't need to have a return edge there but can add them if you want too, they just help to fill up the area when you have thin legs. They are screen accurate to have but the DO's shouldn't require them for higher level approval If needed here's an older thread with how to add a return edge with heat iron

Costuming and Builds Original Trilogy and Anthology (501st Approved) ANH (Stun and Hero) Page 18 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 17 Completed - gmrhodes13 Page 16 Completed - gmrhodes13

Just in case I haven't posted these (I forget sometimes, so many posts ), some great builds for those with a shorter height, may give you some comparison for trimming https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38842-fragarocks-rs-stunt-build-not-to-scale/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42868-sha-shas-wtf-anh-stunt-build-complete/

I have not encountered this, how much return edge do you have on your kidney? Could be a case of your belt or ab and kidney are pulled too tightly, could try letting out the belt a little or loosen the ab/kidney gap. Photos could help

Just in case you haven't seen there are some mobility cut out references here:

Most go for a standard red but I'd run it past the DO's @Deployment Officer Team for their comment