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Phat Rob

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    80's pop culture. SciFi/Fantasy books, movies and games. Toy collecting. Record collecting (Metal and synthwave). Drums

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  1. Hey folks! It's chest and back plate time! Here's some pix of the trimmed edges for the chest piece. You'll notice that no trimming has been done along the "collar" area. I neglected to question how much of, if anything, this area needs to be trimmed. If you have any recommendations or insights about this area I would love to hear them. The bottom section has been trimmed so that all return edges are gone. Theoretically, this should allow the chest to butt more snug against the ab cover. The sides have been trimmed a half-centimeter from the corner molds (again, I know it looks thicker haha). For the back plate I intend to trim from the molding that obviously separates from the excess flash. According to the CRL, leaving some return edge here will not affect approval. What do you guys prefer? For the bottom section I have seen some folks leave a significant amount of return edge from mounting or strap assembly purposes. What would you recommend as the thickness for the bottom edge of the back plate and why? For the portions that butt towards the shoulders you can see the markings that indicate my intended trim area. The shoulder bridges have proven to be an unexpected enigma for me. Looking at official movie references I see how thick the trim is on the sides and along the end of the front tab. It looks like there's pretty much no flat edge in front of it hunh? Orizz that just me? I've seen official movie references where the tabs are removed from the back and I've seen 501st approved photos that prove this is not completely necessary (as mentioned in the CRL). I guess it all comes down to body proportions. Anyways, regarding the shoulder bridges I intend to trim from the underside of the piece as indicated in the photo below. You'll notice that there are two markings for trimming along the front tab. Would you recommend trimming along the red or dotted, white lines? I would like to cut out the tab that runs along the back but I will wait to see how my shoulder bridges sit on my chest and back plates before I commit to that. Any suggestions or concerns you may have about my construction choices are of course welcomed and appreciated!
  2. Dude, that is a great idea! I've already glued at the indicated spots but I will certainly look into this idea as a means of added stability. Thanks Andrew!
  3. This week we've got some forearm progress and questions along with questions regarding the chest plate. I have trimmed (and sanded) even more along the wrists and wide ends to leave out all return edges. Here's a shot of the butted sides with cover strips attached. I'll patiently wait for any suggestions or oversights caught before I proceed with gluing. I have searched the CRL and other threads for a unanimous agreement on edge thickness and the best I can get is that side thickness is generally right up to the return edge-and that edge thickness along the sides is less strict regarding accuracy. Please, please, please correct me if I'm mistaken. My battle plan here is to cut half a centimeter away from the obvious corners of the sides. ( I know it looks thicker.) Again, smack some sense into me if you think this is ill-advised. Onto the bottom of the chest piece. Here the edge thickness towards the flash is all over the place. In areas marked "a." the width from corner to flash is 1 cm. In areas marked "b." the width from corner to flash is 1 and a quarter centimeters. In areas marked "c." the width from corner to flash is 1 and a half centimeters. This bottom shot of the chest plate, more than any other, has eluded me the most. I'm guessing that the trim here should be right up to the edge of the bottom corner. If anyone has any knowledge regarding the suggested thickness for this area, your advice would be most welcome and appreciated. Sincere thanks for your time and expertise!
  4. Yeah looking at my step areas on the wrists I think I can go a little closer as there does appear to be some return edge showing. I'll post some pic updates. Thanks Glen!
  5. What's up fellas? Today is really just an arm dump with a few questions. Ok, firstly I have removed that troublesome bulge at the top of the bicep. Are there any other corners/bulges that need nipping? Next, we've got some forearm trim pics. To my knowledge I have shaved off all of the return edge from the wrists and trimmed all along the middle "hump(?)" at the top of the forearms. This was to keep the shape consistent with the wrist shape. Do the forearms require any more trim that you can see? Lastly, the last few pics are my forearm cutouts after fitting on my...forearms? lol Alrighty then, I 'm moving on to the chest and back pieces (FINALLY!) next and await any suggestions or corrections that this community may have. Sincere appreciation for your time and expertise as always!
  6. Thanks Glen, for that input! Regarding the calf closures I am leaning towards magnets. I need to do a bit of research. Thanks again Caleb! While I create and apply my inner bicep support-strips I have a quick question regarding cutting the edges of the forearm pieces. Is it recommended to cut along the very edge of the flattened section or can you leave a rounded edge as indicated on the green outline? Thanks as always for your time and help!
  7. "Additionally, here's a note regarding the bulge at the top of the bicep; it's recommended that it actually be removed." Hey thanks for that catch, Caleb. I'll remove that bit and get to sanding the butted edges. Also, considering you can slide your whole arm through the affixed bicep pieces, is it recommended to glue both the front and back cover strips to the bicep parts or just for the front cover strips? Thanks as always guys!
  8. Thanks Mario for the awesome reference! Arm work this time around consisted of sanding the tops and bottoms of all bicep pieces. I've kept the butted ends unsanded until I get a nod for gluing. The cover strips were measured at 15 mms across. Pretty short n sweet for this post. If everything checks out I await anyone's recommendations or approval for gluing the front areas. As always, I appreciate your support, time and help.
  9. Got it Mario-back cover strips have been glued/attached! I guess now is as good a time to clarify that I have decided to go for a Centurion level-stunt build. "Power Extreme!" Every reference I look at is at Level 3 Centurion level so it makes sense to me lol. Ok, on with the progress! I've finally applied the thigh ammo belt. In an effort to keep the thigh belt stable, I've read some folks prefer to punch in a third rivet but I have yet to see any visual evidence of said application. I've also read other threads that advise gluing certain sections underneath where the ammo belt touches the lower ridge of the thigh. If anyone else considers gluing acceptable the areas that I've marked are where I plan on applying glue. Other than the thigh belt I've begun some work on the upper arm pieces. Noting how the 501st insists on minimal gaps between the shoulder bells and chest and shoulder links I've cut out as much return edge as possible. As for the bicep pieces I have only marked where I intend to cut away the extra flash. Is this correct? I've also noticed that for the outer bicep pieces one of them flares out at the end. Does anyone know why this is? Speaking of shape differences, the end corners of the inner bicep pieces are also noticeably different. On one piece the end corners arc at a near point, the other has two angled corners on the inside. Any insights or directions regarding these observations and markings would be greatly appreciated.
  10. Good evening folks. This post is mainly about my progress with making and sanding down ABS paste. First, I'd like to show the adjustments I've made on the rear cover strips for the thigh pieces. As you can see they're just a hair narrower than 2.5 cm. With a little help from the Kman (Thank you!) I was able to make a healthy sampling of ABS paste culled from the smallest pieces of leftover trim. I only needed an itty-bitty amount so the instructions were spot on for the correct amount of plastic to acetone ratio. Here's what my poor thigh gaps looked like upon immediate application. Pretty grody-I know. After over 30 minutes of vigorous sanding here are the results. You'll notice what appear to be bubbles. Drat! After refining my acetone concoction I proceeded to add another dab, let dry and sand away. Here is the final result, pre-buffing. IF no further adjustments need to be made regarding the smoothing out of the potential gap areas, do you think I am ready to apply the thigh ammo belt to the right thigh piece? I know most dudes dread that moment of riveting this piece but I can't wait to be honest haha! I eagerly await your advice or concerns- as always I really appreciate your time and help!
  11. "Out of interest, what made you choose Velcro for the thigh rears?" Hey Dan. Honestly, my decision was purely based on convenience. I've had some velcro boxes left over from another costume. I will pull out the velcro and replace it with bands as well as adjust the rear cover strip of the thigh. Thank you for your advice!
  12. Hey y'all. Work continues for the leg portion of the armor. Both the left shin and the right thigh are what we're looking at this week. I went ahead and purchased a hardware set by Joseph Pedigo. Thanks for the heads-up Shawn! And thank you, Joseph! For the thigh ammo belt I'm gonna apply cap rivets for attachment. In the pic there's only two but I think three should be applied for secure fastening. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Both pieces have been painted over with three coats of white enamel paint. Speaking of the thigh ammo belt, is this the correct height and area of attachment on the right thigh piece? Note the circled-in holes. Is that the correct hole placement for the side rivets? Again, I believe there should be a third rivet punched through the right-middle area. I will supply an additional pic to confirm soon. On to the right thigh. After measuring for accuracy the cover strip was glued in. There is a noticeable gap along the bottom area where the side join. I have placed a small cover strip but I'm thinking I'll make some ABS paste and cover it up on the inside. What do you think? An additional cover strip was added on the inside for additional support. After measurements were confirmed, a heat gun was used to conform the sides inward. After the cover strip was measured, created and glued the awkward task of gluing and applying the velcro was completed. Here's a pic of that small strip piece I mentioned earlier on the front part of the thigh piece. Yeah, I think I'll see about pasting that up. On the rear portion of the right thigh you'll notice that gap there (again!). Looking at the CRL, I noticed some pics do show mobility cuts along the back of the knee. Is it recommended to reshape or cut out this area? Lastly, the sniper plate was worked on. As you can see I decided to further trim the bottom area to make it more flush against the shin armor. I will admit, I was so excited to attach this thing and got a little ahead of myself by actually gluing it onto the armor. Doh! For what it's worth, here are the shots with clamps aaaaand glued. If this doesn't work I'll take my lashes and reapply to ensure accuracy. That's all I have for now. Oh! And my homework for this weekend will be doing more research on Hero, Stunt, EI and Centurion differences as I STILL haven't fully decided the path I'm going to pursue. I know, I'm awful lol! Thanks in advance for your guidance and time-I really appreciate it!
  13. Lower leg and thigh work for this round of photos. GMRHodes, I made sure to create two curve areas on the knee ammo belt as per the CRL. TKSpartan, I think I'll go ahead and trim about a 16th of an inch along the bottom front of that sniper knee plate just to nail down the flushness more. Thanks for the suggestions. In order to ensure the lower legs close more tightly I heated along the front area of the left and right pieces. I decided to use the velcro method to close the back area of the shin. I simply glued the velcro strips along the cover strip and back area. For the thigh ammo belt I used the score and snap method to remove from the original piece. I proceeded to cut two curve edges into the bottom corners. In doing so I believe I may have cut too much of a straight angle on each side. Any suggestions on how to fix this miscalculation are most welcome. Here we have the left and right thigh pieces marked along the flash for cutting out and the final sanded result. I've left a half inch distance along the front creases for the front cover strip. For now I've left the return edges at less than half an inch along the top and bottom edges. Is this acceptable or is it advised to go thinner? Lastly, I've seen several suggestions for the type of rivet to be used for the thigh ammo belt. Even the instructions in the CRL seem to contradict each other. (I think I'm shooting for Level 2 Centurion certification?) Geez this stuff is so confusing lol. Anyways, that's it for now and thanks in advance for your time and help!
  14. Ok the last couple of weeks have been mostly devoted to sanding, gluing, and adjusting the lower legs for proper fitting. Here we have all appropriate trim sanded. I've left it at 1/8" at the top and just below the curve along the ankles. The front, inner edges of each half are at 12 cm of flat area along the middle area. Cover strip was resized to run the length of the front shin. The strip was then glued fastened, and set aside for 24 hours. The cumbersome process of marking the rear section of the lower legs was slowly but surely successful after donning the leg armor. While referencing the CRL for the back section of the lower legs I noticed a discrepancy along the top section of the rear side. The spots marked with "x's" will be cut out for better accuracy. I need to acquire a PVC pipe (for the thermal detonator) that I believe can also function as a suitable template when tracing the curvature for the trim of the right knee ammo pack. If there are other ideas I'm all ears. Anyways, I've proceeded to trim the flash from the sniper plate. I wasn't sure about the cut along the bottom. Is 1/8" from the corner an accurate cut? That's it for now. Thanks in advance for your time and help! I truly appreciate it!
  15. Alright fellas. Here's my very,very first progress post. After reading through everyone's helpful suggestions I'm left with a much clearer direction and inspiration! Caleb and Josheph, I intend to do some more research regarding achieving Centurion level certification. I'm sure I'll have more questions the further down the rabbit hole I get. For now I'm going to see about procuring correct bubble lenses and 3 column ear pieces. Also Caleb, the link to your build has so far served as a real useful guide in preparing my leg pieces. Mario, "Measure twice, cut once." is now my motto haha. I am taking it super sloooooow so as to ensure success. Glenn, anytime I begin a new process I'm making it a point to cross-reference other ATA build threads to ensure best practices. Andrew, Randy and everyone, I truly appreciate the sincere welcome and all of your time and advice. In time I hope my build can be just as useful. Thanks everyone! Joseph, I would certainly welcome you to relocate my build thread with the ATA suffix if it can get more eyes over here. Thanks for that! So now to the creamy center... All progress examples are from the right leg shins So far I'm merely cutting all the excess flash off each part. If you guys think everything looks ok my intention is to make the final cuts at 1/8" thickness at the top, and cutting to show some curvature at the bottom ankle area. Since the front cover strips are 7/8" wide I'm assuming to half those dims for both the inner and outer pieces? I intend to measure/cut the rear halves until they fit snug n proper. The sanding will then commence! I've got 60 grit sandpaper for rough sanding and 120 grit to even things out. What do you recommend for a baby smooth finish? I'm making sure that all corners are rounded off to mitigate snap, cracks n pops For gluing pieces do you recommend glue with ethyl cyanoacrylate or good ol' E6000? I think that's it for now. I can't thank you enough for all of your encouragement and advice but THANK YOU! Until next time...
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