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Phat Rob

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About Phat Rob

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    robcantu.artstation.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    80's pop culture. SciFi/Fantasy books, movies and games. Toy collecting. Record collecting (Metal and synthwave). Drums

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  • Name
    Rob

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  1. Happy Labor Day! This well-earned holiday brings you a monthly update focused on the helmet! Let's start with the frown! Using some extra-small q-tips (You can find these at Hobby Lobby.), paint thinner and good ol' 1138 Gray. (That CAN'T just be a coincidence lol!) for touch-ups, I managed to neatly trim those trouble areas. Onto the tears. Using some Gloss Black paint, I expanded the black outline, which of course, resulted in having to completely repaint the tear lines. In this next pic, you'll also notice the difference that decals make in comparison to my previous, hand-painted effort. BIG Thank You's to @justjoseph63 for sending me a set of FREE blue decals! They obviously make a HUGE difference! BTW the sticker was applied before the ear piece was removed to ensure a proper fit. Also note the brow trim's...trimming haha. For these decals, I not only used paint thinner to remove the previously-placed blue paint, but Goof Off, as well. There were some expected stains that I knew would be difficult to completely remove. This next pic shows a more obvious stain. I made sure to use the pencil test to guarantee a proper width from the corner of the cheek. Next, I decided to adjust the black lines as seen on the back gray areas of the back. I used a not-so-successful masking method to produce straighter lines. I'm not sure if it's an improvement-which is a shame cuz this was truly tedious work. Lastly, I removed the lining along the bottom of the bucket to remove the predicted stains. Yup, I see the two prominent stains along the bottom there, underneath the comm-links. I'll be sure to take care of those. Also, as much as it pained me to decide, I'm gonna go ahead and redo those ear pieces. With my experience adjusting all of these pieces, my confidence has greatly increased and I know that I can do better. Aye aye aye, what am I getting myself into, lol? Hopefully, next month I will be showing off those new earpieces with minimal to no space shown between the ears and bucket! That's all I had time for this month, ya'll. (Life is crazy with a baby and a wife who's in grad school haha!) In addition to the improved earpieces, next month I will include work on the hardhat suspensions and bottom-liner mounting. As always, your help and suggestions are most invaluable and appreciated and I can't wait to see what you have to say about the latest and greatest. Take care y'all!
  2. Good morning! And thanks @TKSpartan and @Chemi for your suggestions regarding the final adjustments to the detonator. As you can see, I've shaved off a bit from the bottom of that middle panel (1 cm) and simply rotated said panel towards more even cap-end cuts. I also noticed that for some reason I never actually trimmed, sanded and smoothed the butt plate. Referencing the CRL, the edges are angled. Oof. And now the area I've been dreading. The bucket. So bear with me on this guys. Before I decided to try my hand at completing a 501st approved full TK suit I had ordered my ATA Works bucket by itself just as a project. Of course, this thing is RIDDLED with...discrepancies haha. Oh my lord, here goes... What I'm not sure about are the comm tips and the paint on the grill-but let's be honest I'm sure they need some adjustments. The ear pieces are very much sub-par. It looks like there's a lot of return edge still on that upper section. I plan on severely trimming this to drastically reduce the empty space between the helmet and ear piece. The blue stripes were created with my own stencil (obviously lol) and will need reworking I'm sure. I'm leaning towards decals so if anyone has any insight or suggestions I'm all ears. Any overspray will be washed off. The cheek markings were also hand painted and do not appear symmetrical from left and right sides. Also leaning towards decals while keeping the original black and gray paint borders. The left side looks slightly better I think. Still gonna fix. The black grill lines are pretty rough. Again, I think I can keep the black and gray paint job but would like to paint over the grill lines and replace with some sweet decals. What'choo think? Oh man this is embarrassing. So you can clearly see that the hardhat suspensions are on backwards. Again, all overspray will be washed out thoroughly along with any dirt. Other than that I'm really not sure. All suggestions are most welcome. I feel like I'm 8 years old, my dad just found out what trouble I've been into and the whippings are finally over haha. Thanks again so much for your always helpful suggestions and ideas!
  3. Good Morning! Back for my monthly armor update! Last month was devoted towards finishing the gloves and the thermal detonator, Thank you @justjoseph63 for the glove order and the flexible hand guards! Even if they are essentially chemical gloves they look and fit great! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49156-fs-rubber-gloves-for-expert-infantrycenturion-level/ The hand guards are also spectacular! To ensure the best centering, the gloves were marked with a Sharpie and blue tape. Before sanding these guys, I etched scoring marks with an x-acto for that added layer of traction for gluing. Good ol' nail polish remover was used for removing the printed text. Here's how the guards sit at the knuckle and with a closed fist. Aaaand open palm... Alright, continuing the work on the thermal detonator here's what we have so far... Thank you to @ukswrathfor the Belt Clips! Superior craftsmanship and hyper fast service! Thank you @MaskedVengeance for your guidance regarding the detonator. It certainly made life easier when acquiring the necessary items for completion. For the detonator body I ran down to the local hardware store, purchased a 2" PVC and sawed it down to size. I eventually whittled it down to 6 3/4", filing down a bevel along both rims. As you see among the snapshot of items used, I bought a spray can of Testors 1238 to achieve that dark gray tone. I have assembled all of the pieces to fit for eventual fastening, Before I fasten everything, I just wanted to clear all of the measurements first. From end to end, the canister is 7 and 1/4". (I know the pic looks like 1/2" but it's not.) The width between the middle panel and end caps is 1/2", There are some different angles to make sure everything sits correctly. I know it's not much but believe me I'm trying. Looking after little LeeLee requires my full attention nowadays but I wouldn't trade that hard work for anything. I will not fasten anything until I receive y'alls well-experienced knowledge and blessings. As always, my humble thank you's for your help and time! I ALWAYS and SINCERELY appreciate it!
  4. Oh man, it's been a while lol! And with good reason at least haha! Ya see, I had hoped to have most of the trimming and fitting work done before our first born introduced herself last December. Well, our little one had something to say about that and decided she was ready to hatch a few weeks early! So on Thanksgiving Day appropriately enough, little baby was born! Meet Frances Leonor, the newest member of the Galactic Empire! Coincidentally, she goes by "Lea". That is pure coincidence and not a Star Wars nod I swear haha! After moving across the country a few months back and little Lea FINALLY sleeping through the night I now have the time to devote at least a couple of hours a week to my armor. I've decided to forgo adding shims to the sides of the kidney plate (or was it the ab plate?- idk). This gives me a reason to lose weight and maintain a healthier lifestyle so that's gotta have some worthwhile benefits right? Taking baby steps (No pun intended lol) I'm now gonna work on those little nick-nacks like the gloves, ab attachments and thermal detonator-or is it the o2 canister? Today's progress is just me sharing how I've measured the canister for eventual cutting. For accurate measurements, I've referred to several threads including : Without further ado... Here are my tools of the trade. And the measured pieces. I've got a PVC pipe in mind for the actual canister piece but would like to clear it with more experienced builders first. I've managed to track down a 2.5" pipe which I'll of course, color the right shade of gray. I'll have to do more research on the best paint. And hey it's shipped from my state! https://tinyurl.com/4mck9ke9 care of Ebay. Is this a good find or am I completely barking up the wrong tree? I, of course, will be ordering those super nice clips from Ukswrath. I hope they're still available haha. So that's it for this week's post guys. I eagerly await your well-educated responses and suggestions. Thanks as always!
  5. Yeah that right shim has me a little worried as well. I think I'm gonna cut that top section out and replace it with a much flatter piece I think. Thanks Glen.
  6. While today's share consists of the ab piece and kidney plate I'd first like to thank you guys for your suggestions regarding the shoulder bridges. Thanks Mario for your insight pertaining to the amount of ridges overlapping the chest piece. I do plan on moving the shoulder bridge forward slightly to have three ridges and tab over the chest area. Ideally, I do plan on removing that rear tab but I won't commit to that until I see a perfect fit. Of course, another fitting will determine how well everything looks. Thank you Caleb for your suggestion to don the ab and kidney pieces to ensure a more proper fit-I plan on doing just that when I check for my next shoulder bridge fitting. Last but certainly not least, Glen, I also appreciate your echoed recommendation to arrange a more thorough fitting that includes more adjacent parts. In the meantime, let's take a gander at what I've worked on... First, I have sanded the abdominal piece to reflect the more angular edges apparent towards the groin area. For the top portion of the ab piece I have kept one centimetre of space from the corner to the edge of the plastic to allow for harness hardware. Next, for the bottom area of the kidney piece I've merely cut along the area where the return edge meets the flash. If there are any other insights regarding the "ideal" or more effective cut for this area I will most certainly consider any suggestions. The top area of the kidney piece has a full centimetre of space between the corner and edge of the plastic. This is to hopefully, prevent the kidney or chest piece from riding over each other. If this is not correct I will make the proper adjustment depending on any suggestions. Soooo as my wife and I were fitting everything last session we noticed a nice inch and a half gap where the kidney plate edge should meet the ab plate corner. Thanks to my big, fat gut I am one of the lucky ones that gets to shim along the kidney plate! Yaaayyyy! Check a look at the proposed shim attachment and the first round of ABS paste applied to the inner and outer shim pieces. Alright, so I'm going to apply another layer of paste and hopefully that'll do it before I sand that mess to a velvety smooth finish. I'll post my results before attaching to the kidney plate. Once I receive the blessing of this community I'll attach the shims to the kidney plate and proceed with paste applications and sanding. Yuck. I'm not looking forward to this haha. Lastly, it's butt plate time! Looking at the CRL and the trim outlines of the butt piece I see that the corners are distinctly more angular. Hence, this is why I plan on retaining those sharp angular corners when I trim and sand. What say you? That's it for now fellas! On our next visit I plan on sharing some more fitting pix and hopefully get a little closer to solving the riddle of the shoulder bridges. In the meantime I await your always helpful advice and suggestions. Thank you so much guys!
  7. Happy Veteran's Day everyone! I hope everyone is enjoying themselves and their families as we honor and recognize all who have served this country. Today's share will be a mini-drop showcasing the shoulder bridges. As you can see on the front side, I've got the front tab and two ridges overlapping the chest piece. Even at this placement you can see that it pretty much already touches the creases on the chest. From the back side you can see that the shoulder bridges extend all the way down until they almost touch the back detail. Also you'll notice that the shoulder bridge is waaaay off-center on the right side there. Looks like I'm gonna have to realign that shoulder bridge. So yeah, I'm thinking about moving the shoulder bridge further down the front to have the front tab and three or four ridges overlapping the chest piece. As always, any thoughts, concerns or suggestions are most welcome and appreciated. Thanks, guys!
  8. Good evening my fellow costume enthusiasts! For this update let's start with the forearms. As you can see the insides have been reinforced with extra support strips. For the chest plate I've completely scooped out the collar all the way to the very edge. For the back piece I've kept all the return edges with the collar going all the way to the very edge. Notice that I've kept the bottom portion intact to a thickness of 1 centimeter. Thank you Joseph for your insight regarding the matter of the kidney piece riding up the back piece and using this return edge to butt against the kidney piece. Regarding the shoulder bridges I've made the executive decision to cut out any return edge/lip in the front area. I simply prefer this look sitting flush against the chest piece and I know that it's still accurate to the costume. As you can see with only two ridges and the tab of the shoulder bridge overlapping the front piece it still hangs just in front of the chest sculpt. This is where I intend to adhere it, but of course only a test fitting will truly determine that. Depending on how the tabs sit on the back piece we'll see if cutting them out is necessary. Once I get rid of any logos on my spandex undersuit via nail polish remover, I'll resume the process of test fitting. In the meantime, here is where I intend to cut along for the abdomen piece. As far as the top section, I've read where the chosen strapping method will help determine how much return edge should remain. I need to do more research but I am leaning towards the snap method vs. brackets. Either way I'm completely clueless so any advice in determining where to cut along the top of the abdomen would be sincerely appreciated. Lastly, I've marked where I intend to cut along the kidney piece. Similar to the bottom of the back piece I am thinking of leaving a centimeter of return edge to combat riding of the kidney over the back piece. (The photo on the left represents the top portion of the kidney piece.) With everyone's busy schedules and much more important obligations I'd like to express my gratitude in anyone taking the time to inspect my progress and offer your suggestions and advice. I truly appreciate it!
  9. Hey folks! It's chest and back plate time! Here's some pix of the trimmed edges for the chest piece. You'll notice that no trimming has been done along the "collar" area. I neglected to question how much of, if anything, this area needs to be trimmed. If you have any recommendations or insights about this area I would love to hear them. The bottom section has been trimmed so that all return edges are gone. Theoretically, this should allow the chest to butt more snug against the ab cover. The sides have been trimmed a half-centimeter from the corner molds (again, I know it looks thicker haha). For the back plate I intend to trim from the molding that obviously separates from the excess flash. According to the CRL, leaving some return edge here will not affect approval. What do you guys prefer? For the bottom section I have seen some folks leave a significant amount of return edge from mounting or strap assembly purposes. What would you recommend as the thickness for the bottom edge of the back plate and why? For the portions that butt towards the shoulders you can see the markings that indicate my intended trim area. The shoulder bridges have proven to be an unexpected enigma for me. Looking at official movie references I see how thick the trim is on the sides and along the end of the front tab. It looks like there's pretty much no flat edge in front of it hunh? Orizz that just me? I've seen official movie references where the tabs are removed from the back and I've seen 501st approved photos that prove this is not completely necessary (as mentioned in the CRL). I guess it all comes down to body proportions. Anyways, regarding the shoulder bridges I intend to trim from the underside of the piece as indicated in the photo below. You'll notice that there are two markings for trimming along the front tab. Would you recommend trimming along the red or dotted, white lines? I would like to cut out the tab that runs along the back but I will wait to see how my shoulder bridges sit on my chest and back plates before I commit to that. Any suggestions or concerns you may have about my construction choices are of course welcomed and appreciated!
  10. Dude, that is a great idea! I've already glued at the indicated spots but I will certainly look into this idea as a means of added stability. Thanks Andrew!
  11. This week we've got some forearm progress and questions along with questions regarding the chest plate. I have trimmed (and sanded) even more along the wrists and wide ends to leave out all return edges. Here's a shot of the butted sides with cover strips attached. I'll patiently wait for any suggestions or oversights caught before I proceed with gluing. I have searched the CRL and other threads for a unanimous agreement on edge thickness and the best I can get is that side thickness is generally right up to the return edge-and that edge thickness along the sides is less strict regarding accuracy. Please, please, please correct me if I'm mistaken. My battle plan here is to cut half a centimeter away from the obvious corners of the sides. ( I know it looks thicker.) Again, smack some sense into me if you think this is ill-advised. Onto the bottom of the chest piece. Here the edge thickness towards the flash is all over the place. In areas marked "a." the width from corner to flash is 1 cm. In areas marked "b." the width from corner to flash is 1 and a quarter centimeters. In areas marked "c." the width from corner to flash is 1 and a half centimeters. This bottom shot of the chest plate, more than any other, has eluded me the most. I'm guessing that the trim here should be right up to the edge of the bottom corner. If anyone has any knowledge regarding the suggested thickness for this area, your advice would be most welcome and appreciated. Sincere thanks for your time and expertise!
  12. Yeah looking at my step areas on the wrists I think I can go a little closer as there does appear to be some return edge showing. I'll post some pic updates. Thanks Glen!
  13. What's up fellas? Today is really just an arm dump with a few questions. Ok, firstly I have removed that troublesome bulge at the top of the bicep. Are there any other corners/bulges that need nipping? Next, we've got some forearm trim pics. To my knowledge I have shaved off all of the return edge from the wrists and trimmed all along the middle "hump(?)" at the top of the forearms. This was to keep the shape consistent with the wrist shape. Do the forearms require any more trim that you can see? Lastly, the last few pics are my forearm cutouts after fitting on my...forearms? lol Alrighty then, I 'm moving on to the chest and back pieces (FINALLY!) next and await any suggestions or corrections that this community may have. Sincere appreciation for your time and expertise as always!
  14. Thanks Glen, for that input! Regarding the calf closures I am leaning towards magnets. I need to do a bit of research. Thanks again Caleb! While I create and apply my inner bicep support-strips I have a quick question regarding cutting the edges of the forearm pieces. Is it recommended to cut along the very edge of the flattened section or can you leave a rounded edge as indicated on the green outline? Thanks as always for your time and help!
  15. "Additionally, here's a note regarding the bulge at the top of the bicep; it's recommended that it actually be removed." Hey thanks for that catch, Caleb. I'll remove that bit and get to sanding the butted edges. Also, considering you can slide your whole arm through the affixed bicep pieces, is it recommended to glue both the front and back cover strips to the bicep parts or just for the front cover strips? Thanks as always guys!
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