gazmosis

I don't know if you have fully assembled the thermal det yet, but the screws should be flat on the underside not tapered. Make sure the control panel has all the flashing removed. As for the screw locations, there are no measurements. Make an eyeball comparison to the reference pics available here.. Mark and drill the locations on your clips first. Position the clips on your detonator and mark onto the pipe.

Oooh, nom nom nom nom

Try a photo host like photobucket or flicker

There is no linear measurement. But as the diagram shows, you want the snaps on the ab piece to end up within the belt box when the belt is attached in its final resting place. You don;t have to do it this way, but this is how I have done it: Mark the center of your belt.(length and top to bottom. This will help you center the belt on the ab as well as be a reference point when you rivet your plastic belt to it. Lay the plastic belt on the canvas belt and lightly mark where the outer boxes sit. Lay the belt centered onto the ab. Mark onto the ab where your outer boxes are. Install the male snaps in those locations. Place the belt back onto the ab and press down onto ONE SNAP ONLY!!! When you press the belt onto the snap it will make a slight impression so when you lift it you can mark it with a pencil right in the center.. Install the female snap to that side. Snap that side down. Now you can pull the other side over tight against the ab to ensure that it doesn't droop. Repeat and done!

It looks like you're doing a great job so far! Keep in mind that there is no such thing as a helmet kit that has the face and cap go together like puzzle pieces. You just need to trim back the lower portion of both sides a little more. Be careful, though, on the left side(as you are looking at the helmet. The overlap can get very thin on that side. You need a little bit on the tube portion for a second joining location to prevent the halves from hinging. I would suggest using rivets rather than screws. Once you join the halves together, you want that to never move again.

Mmmmmm...holster bruise! In the pic of the four of you, the center two troopers look like they forgot to paint their frown or it's really....super light.

Less is more! Well done, Sir!

It sounds like you are of average build. Any armor for the exception of AP would suit you well.

AH!!! I was always wondering why the joined side of the holster was facing forward!

Everything you are experiencing is normal when using a razor knife in ABS. I am glad you noticed this raised area! If it is not removed, the cover strip will have a problem fully contacting the surface. YOu can either remove it with the sandpaper or with the edge of the razor knife blade, Just hold it perpendicular to the edge and run it down.

Rock on, bro!!!

Looks great to me, brother!

The resculpting of the biceps and the right forearm are LONG overdue. The left bicep is a mess and the right one has the thumbprint when it should not. Adam mentioned a few changes. He also re did the waist belt rivet covers to be accurate, he now has the kidney notches, and the extra material allows a trooper of almost a 40 inch waist to fit. Standard ATA shares most of these molds and can fit a 38 inch waist out of the box. It may be a bit snug but it can be done.

Very nice build. I like that dark gray color rather than just jet black. Adds character in my opinion. Three things that jump out at me, though, The t-tracks really need to be bent into the vent holes. You are missing a track on the ejector port side, and the rear foot of the scope should align with the hinge point on the folding stock. Great looking weapon, trooper!!!!

Was there a particular helmet you were looking to emulate? I just have never seen one with that amount of damage. It will really take shape with the details, however

Have you contacted the Sith Detachment??

Pics always help. You should use the correct size rivet for the job. You want just enough to go through your parts that you are joining and the backer washer. It will never end up flush, but flattening it out is possible. First, take the stem of the rivet that you popped out. Place it into the rivet and with a couple gentle taps with a hammer, knock out the ball that is lodged in the rivet. Use pliers or the rivet gun to get the stem back out. Lay your workpiece rivet head down on a hard, flat surface. Now just tap the underside of the rivet until flat. This method works best when your rivet is just longer than your workpiece is thick. If your workpiece is 1/8 inch thick and you use a 1inch rivet it might not go so well.

Holy movie perfect. However, you listed this thread in the other 501st costume section. 3PO clearly is not 501st thus a clear violation of forum rules. I will send you my address so you can relinquish the costume to me as punishment. You did spectacular work! I will thoroughly enjoy the costume!!

Totally on point!!! Perfect so far!

No, Jonathan. Some were black, some had the front paint chipped off. As long as it's not too distracting, a little weathering is acceptable.

My band saw is very fine toothed for detail woodworking. It goes through foam like butter with accuracy.

You did it right so far. Your story is a great one. Way too familiar to a lot of us!! It's great to hear that your sights are set so high. Why not start at the top?? Humbrol paints, though accurate, are a bit unconventional in their behavior....which is why I only use them for tube stripes. Their 6 hour dry time drives me nuts as well. I never rush anything, but I do get into a rhythm and like to move forward. Anyway, you will need to repair those outlines where your paint ran. I suggest that you go get some long bristled brushes. These are my weapons: With long brushes like these(and a bit of practice) you can make a pinstripe around these areas with a fair bit of consistency in the thickness of the line. This is mainly because if you put more pressure on the brush, the bristles just bend rather than fanning out like smaller brushes do. Jittery hands don't help so no coffee if you plan on this method. Take it slow and steady. Things look great so far!

It still blows me away that after all these years, AP helmets still come with the wrong mic tips and neck trim. Nice work on the helmet and good recovery on those ears. On your next helmet, I would make the tooth openings a little more squared at the corners than rounded. Well done

Don't worry about the sideways pic. I took care of it. Anyway, thank you for your Centurion application! It was evident that this was your goal all along. Let's take a look!! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted. Thank you for a thorough application! Yes.....you have the flexible handplates!!!! Nice shot! Hahaha! Anyone in your Garrison should be proud to be beside you. I know I would. Congratulations and welcome to Centurion!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Normally, I give your application a few days to have your fellow troopers look over your application and perhaps suggest things that may improve the overall look of your armor. I didn't really see a need. It was a pleasure to look over this armor! I do find it interesting that you joined your torso parts together yet still use the chest to back elastic. In looking at your picture closely, It really doesn't seem to be doing anything except drooping. If your armor sections are secure, I'd just remove it or shorten it up if you like your armor to hug you. Well done and congratulations again!!

HAIL Caesar that which is Caesar!!!! Thank you for your Centurion application and giving us a chance to look on this terrific set of armor! CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: Application was outstanding. All required photos have been submitted. Your hard work has paid off resulting in an easy pass for your Centurion badge. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: Well done all the way around. Your Garrison should be proud!