gazmosis

What kit are we seeing?

That explains it!hahahaha Weenie a doodle do!!!

Those front cover strip ridges are huge. I wonder if they are overlap or butt construction. I just don't remember FX ridges being that big

Good luck! The FX button plate is molded in TK style. TD plates are totally different. No buttons. Remember that 4 button plate needs to be 3

Going to move. This thread to ANH blaster builds

It would not void a Centurion application. As long as the chest to back elastic is white is all that would be seen.

I wish we could see the other side. But as it is there is nothing that would make this weapon not accepted. It even has the "D" ring

Dang!!! I wish the people who deac these weapons would just weld the mag feed into the receiver. I guess you could still manually chamber a round.....whatever... It's a shame nothing else but the trigger moves

Lay down the ears until you have the two halves of the helmet joined permanently. There will be micro adjustments you will need to make that you can only do correctly with the halves joined.

I know of several troopers that have installed a small snap to the underside of the shoulder bridge.

Spectacular!!!

Oh yes! Ssssssssmell the plastic!

Dude, nice work!! Didn't that give some extra solidness to the helmet??

Yes yes yes yes!

Wow....just wow!

Oh yuck

That looks good, brother. No real standard (right/wrong) here. It's all about comfort.

A couple things I noticed if I may chime in. I haven't seen an updated pic of your face on the helmet, but the first one needs much more taken out of the tooth openings. You have done well on your biceps and forearms. I would take more out of the top of the forearm half with the square indent ridge. It will make a little more room and may take a bit off the overall length. As for your shins, you can still take more off the bottom. You can also cut a curve (arch)in both the front and the rear at the seam. The shin cannot fall lower than the point it hits the front top of your boot. Make a curve(arch) at the seam that will allow your shin to stop to a more comfortable height. Almost no one has ever trimmed out their ears before joining the face with the cap. You need to be certain your face joins with the cap properly before moving on to your ears. The brow trim must be tight across the face. Once the face is attached and the brow is tight and even above the eyes(it doesn't have to be perfectly level, just even and located where you are happy with it) then you move onto the ears. Hopefully the one you have already trimmed still fits.

I have a counter I am willing to part with. PM me and I can shoot you pics if you want

MuhAhahahaha!!!!

Who is gonna cover their front lawn with these this holiday season?? Improvementscatalog.com

If I were you, I'd make another one that duplicates the one you did. Just leave out the hole that leads from the mag housing into the main receiver.

You do have an option with your current helmet. You have not made any permanent installations on the inside of your lid that would prevent you removing the ear screws to install "Hero" ears. The paint on your frown is not permanent either. Your ABS pate work on your side shims was fantastic! Witch care, you can glue a backer to the tooth you cut out and fill the rest with ABS paste, sand and polish it.

Looks fantastic so far!

Nope. Sorry to say, it is a costume malfunction. After two films, these costumes were stretched to their limits and beginning to break down. rRemember that the drop boxes were attached only by a loop of elastic. Unless another picture shows more than two (which it won't) this drop box just slid over out of position. Is that gaffers tape connecting the chest and back?