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gazmosis

501st Member[501st]
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Everything posted by gazmosis

  1. I'm a little disappointed; the ab button colors are all wrong!!!
  2. Look what my Mom got me today!!!!!!!
  3. The rear traps are decals????? Wow! Congrats again and let me know if you have any questions.
  4. Hey there, Craig! Thank you for your application to expert infantry. You have a nice build going. Let's take a look at your armor!!! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: Just to clarify, you have some of your photos listed as "optional". Those pictures are on the required photo submission list for EIB. If there is any question of what these photos are, see this list:http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22604-expert-infantry-application-photo-checklist/ Like I said, you have a great build and you armor contains the necessary requirements for EIB. With that, I would like to congratulate and welcome you to Expert Infantry!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly:This is the section where myself and you fellow troopers provide suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. None of these suggestions will affect your applications. First off your forearms look big. We all want the forearms to be comfortable, but NE forearms can be fit perfectly to ones arms. The parts that looks really big to me is the wrist opening. It should be a tight squeeze to get your hand through the opening. If it is too big, big, it looks "off'. There is another topic regarding your forearms that will be discussed below. Your thighs also look big to me. You don;t want any armor part to be so tight that it's hard to wear or uncomfortable. But a part being too big can be uncomfortable as well. IT looks like you have a lot of extra room both at the top and at the knee. Now, if you raised your thighs up, that would take care of the top. But the knee area looks like it can be taken in a bit. This area concerns me. Your sides. At 6'2" and 205, you seem pretty thin. Do you REALLY need that much extra room? The kidney plate is supposed to be trimmed along the lines that Ron showed. I see a bit of overlap on your left side. It would go a LONG way to the improvement of your armor look if that extra material on the kidney could be removed. Have someone force the kidney an ab together. If the overlap allows the end of your ab to toch that raised ridge where the kidney should have been cut, then I suggest you trim it there. Some people are just bigger around the middle. If it doesn't allow it..so be it. It would just be a better overall look if it could be trimmed. Many people believe that because it is there, it needs to stay there. The last suggestion I have is to grab a small brush and add a taper to the ends of your frown. This should not be a blunt finish to the ends: Centurion Requirements:The items discussed in this section are required before centurion can be awarded. NE armor parts have several parts of the upper body derived from molds of the original suit. There are parts that are specific to the right and left. Your forearms and biceps are these parts. The forearms were built with a raised mold ridge that the cover strip sits on. This molded ridge should be on the top of each forearm. There is no ridge on the bottom. Although there are no raised ridges on the biceps (this is accurate) the bicep sides are determined by the "thumbprint". I can't see with certainty, but from the shape of it, you have the thumbprint bicep on your right when it should be on your left. Please make sure your Centurion photos (if you plan on applying...I HOPE!!!) reflects this adjustment. Please work on raising your shoulder bells a bit to touch the ribbed shoulder bridges. Ron also pointed out the white snap on the upper right of your ab and I agree that the paint needs to be removed here. We need to discuss your waist belt. A couple things I notice here that both Tim and Ron touched on. First off, you have a little too much material on the top and bottom of the boxes. You also have a bit of a droop in the front. This pic is of a belt in the proper position and trimmed correctly: Here is my suggestion for trimming your down. Something else that can't really be addressed now is the rivet cover placements on the end. I think that unfortunately you trimmed a little too much off the ends. There should be roughly 1 1/2 inches from the outer most box to the belt end. As for the cover being too close to the end, well, these were kind of all over the place in the film. Some wewre right at the edge, some slightly in....there is no standard here just so they are not too close to the box. The next thing is regarding your Thermal Detonator. It looks big to me. The final overall length of your detonator should be in the neighborhood of 7 1/4 - 7 1/2 inches. If you break down the sections...2 end caps at 3/4 inch=1 1/2 inches, control panel=4 3/4 inches, gaps between panel and caps= 1/2 inch each=1 inch...total, 7 1/4 inches. These measurements are approximate and can be al little bigger. The the total length should be much bigger than 7 1/2 total. I will need to you to adjust the vent lines on your rear traps on the back of your helmet. These were always very close to uniform length top to bottom. The last thing that I would like to see adjusted is the drop box on your left. The right one sits perfect and left one hangs much lower. Why not even them up and make them perfect?? You have a great set of armor here.I know you have the talents and skills to make these adjustments. Trust me, your overall look will be greatly improved!!! Congratulations again, Craig!!!!
  5. I hope they are going to have enough copies
  6. It's not a mistake, Scott. The gray comes close enough.
  7. It's really not that big of a deal. If in fact the TD needs to be painted, just use the same gray that you'd use on your helmet details
  8. Yes, Brent. When you remove the rivet issue on your sniper, your armor will be EIB ready. Thank you for the Hovi pic! As I expected, they are beautiful! Please keep us posted!
  9. Any automotive rubbing compound from any auto parts store will work well.
  10. Makes me shudder...I can't figure out if I like it. I think I don't
  11. I have to agree with the peanut gallery here. You did a fine job on the rest of your helmet why not make it complete? The tube stripes, without question, should rest on the upper portion of the cheek not the middle. Since these are just decals, they can be easily removed and replaced in the proper place. Like Mathias said, the number really doesn't make that big of a difference. Use the pencil tip as your guide for how far to place them from the face. Make sure the line is equal distance from the face the whole way down the cheek so the stripes don't sit angled on the cheek tubes.
  12. Let us in on your body type so we can better help you. RT is geared towards larger troopers. Might be too big if you are smaller frame. Do you have a budget? That has a lot to do with it, too.
  13. And Vern would be right
  14. Be clear that ATA always gives 2 pair should you make a mistake with the first pair. C and D are the right AS YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE HELMET.
  15. Moving this thread to general armor discussion.
  16. Mine too! I wish Germain would buy me one!!!
  17. The requirement states that it must be a box in box. A neatly trimmed piece of ABS sitting on a filler like foam looks nice, but is NOT an inner box as required
  18. Some bang up work, brother!
  19. Currently, there are no regulations regarding the attaching hardware. If you are shooting for Centurion, getting the correct slotted screws is suggested. They are available everywhere so why not?
  20. Looks outstanding! Nice and even
  21. You WILL be selling these!! You should consider other weapons! Sterlings, MG 42's Sandtrooper weapons.
  22. You're good. The straps on the originals were brown or black
  23. You look great brother! You should have no issues with your approval. I would look into connecting your kidney and ab plate at the side seams. This will raise up your kidney into its proper position eliminating that gap on your back between the back plate and kidney. Also, your shoulder bells could use a bit of an upward boost. The tops should come really close to touching the ribbed shoulder bridges.
  24. ATA's are a bit shallow. That's just the way they are. Can't wait to see your upgrades!!
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