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gazmosis

501st Member[501st]
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    4,042
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About gazmosis

  • Rank
    Centurion
  • Birthday 05/27/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Naperville, Illinois
  • Interests
    Fishing, handyman work,

FISD Info

  • FISD Service Medals
    4
  • Centurion Granted Date
    20120322
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Steve
  • 501st ID
    4034
  • 501st Unit
    Midwest Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

3,263 profile views
  1. Great looking overall build. The gray paint for your ab buttons looks really dark. Also, like Joseph mentioned, you need a pic of the attachment side of your thermal detonator. I noticed a black center to the round detail?? If that is present, that must be removed. Keep in mind that forward progress on this application will be held up until your blaster and action shots are provided.
  2. Keep in mind that E6000 is a 24 hour set. Don't rush it. Do a very light sanding on the gluing surfaces of parts to be joined. Plan out your attack and your clamping procedures.<br> . Rehearse it. Sounds goofy, but if you make a mistake, it's best to make it when there is no glue. If you used a razor knife to trim your parts, make sure the little raised edge created by the razor cutting into the plastic is removed. This will affect how parts lay against one another if this is not removed
  3. This is all constructive and we want you to look your best so please take no offense. Chris made some good points. You do have a couple options. First is to start over if you are up for that. Second is to try to clean the OUTER edge of the black as uniform as you can. Then work onto the black with gray until you have reached the pinstripe that the tears and traps should have outlining them. If you do start over, Like Chris said, a thin, long bristled brush will help you maintain the thin outline. It will take practice so make some straight and curved lines on some scrap plastic and practice
  4. does no one believe in quality anymore? There is no excuse for the bubbly castings. Sometimes makers sell their items at a discount marking them "B" or "C" grade. That was a "S" grade for......well....you know
  5. Go really subtle on the scope. Less is more with weathering. Lay your blaster down and look at the parts and corners that touch the surface or that are handled the most. Can there be too much weathering? Absolutely
  6. First off, don't worry about the bottom opening just yet. Once the rest of the helmet is assembled, you can trim the opening so it is even all the way around. At the point you are at, the helmet assembly is really no different than any other. First, drill out your mounting holes in the round portion of the cap "ear" just below the temple traps. Roughly here:. Make sure your hole is the same size as the rivet you will be using to do the final mating of the cap and face. Find a screw and nut and use that FIRST until everything is aligned the way you want and the construction is finished. You c
  7. I am sorry that your dream was so close...yet so far away. However, you are in the right place to keep that dream alive. Poke around until you have decided which armor works best and threads will guide you to make your dream a reality. For now, just chalk it up to a lesson learned.
  8. Hey Tim: The advice given is sound. This person does nothing more than use someone else's armor, makes molds of it, then sells it as his own. That is known in general as piracy but here it is re-casting and is highly frowned upon. Not to mention the material he uses is hyper thin styrene which cracks if you look at it too hard. Stay clear and support FISD and the REAL armor makers.
  9. It's not bad it's just that the center is a bit wider than it should be
  10. Welcome! Can we see pics of your work so far!?
  11. best of luck to you!! Post lots of pics along the way so that if you have any questions, we can help!!
  12. Doesn;t look like anything auto rubbing compound won;t fix
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