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501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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About kiyotei

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    Expert Infantryman
  • Birthday 05/31/1966

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    Seattle, WA


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  • 501st Unit
    Garrison Titan

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  1. kiyotei

    Swag Toss

    I'm the trooper on the left in that photo and those were damn good cookies.
  2. I have not seen the Anovos strapping system. Can you show a few pics of how its held together on the inside?
  3. Hi measured a few parts from my Anovos kit to determine how thick the plastic is. Here are the measurements. If the part was still numbered I wrote the number, if not I wrote the name. I measured using digital calipers. Part 9L -> .032" Thermo det -> .039, .035, .037 Part 10E -> .032 Part 9N -> .02 Part 10K -> .047 Part 5D shoulder bell -> .056 Ankle -> .065, .057 Cod -> .075 forearm - > .035, .037, .052"
  4. I will have to measure it this weekend. My concerns are that they sell the kit as ABS and charge for ABS. Styrene is cheaper and not as strong. Some of my parts are really thin, such as the forearms. I do have concerns about how well it will hold up. If you advertise ABS you have to make it from ABS. Nothing else matters. If you want to make the kit from styrene that is fine but advertise it as styrene. Its like selling oak furniture and shipping customers pine furniture. Yea they are both wood but... Regarding the re-casting, it is an Anovos suite. They did the recasting themselves to either create more molds or made improvements. But as my pics show the recasting resulted in parts that don't fit. That is the problem, PARTS DON'T FIT. These are $1800 kits not $100 resin parts or whatever. For $1800 I expect to get my money's worth. The suite looks good in general. I also think only some of us got styrene. Later kits seem to be thicker ABS.
  5. Hi Folks, I've been working on a TFA kit for a couple of months now and I have had a number of problems with the kit. I got my kit in late August but didn't start working on it till sometime in September. here is what I've found so far: 1. My kit is made of styrene. I have had a number of people look at it and they all agree it is styrene. The kit is supposed to be ABS. I'm waiting to hear from Anovos on this issue. They have indicated they want me to send some parts to them. 2. My kit appears to have a number of parts that have been made from molds that were recasts from the original armor. This leads some of my parts being either too small or too big to fit properly. I am also waiting for Anovos to address this issue. Now for some photos of ill fitting parts. Stand by while I post them. Pic 1: Back Armor -> For the C7 armor the back and part of the shoulder was one piece. In my kit it was split into two pieces. They recast the shoulder part from the C7 back but they recasted on the outside. this means the part is too wide now and the curves will not line up properly. This part from the shoulder is supposed to fit inside the back plate but it is way too big to fit because of recasting. We had to really work it to get it to fit. In the next pic you can see how the new part fits the back like a glove showing how it was a recast. The next pic shows how poorly they fit and how much bondo had to be used to re-sculpt the seam. Now I will switch to the boxes that get mounted on the forearms. Once again a recasting issue. The boxes were recast and are larger then the C7 boxes but the lids were recast (inner diameter) making them smaller than the box so they don't fit. I will compare the old C7 lid with the new lid in my kit. But first here is a pic of the parts I'm talking about: This next pic shows the lid mounted on the box and you can see how much smaller it is. This next pic shows the original C7 lid on my box. It is also too small to fit but fits "better" than the lid that came with my kit. This final pic shows the C7 lid and the lid that came with my kit, you can see the size differences:
  6. I just didn't even think to look under 501st only. Well though for Anovos it was under an NDA so that had to be locked down for a bit before Celebration.
  7. so that is why I could not find any build threads, they are under 501st ONLY. I thought it was rather odd there were no build threads. Thanks.
  8. I'm trying to sort out all the boxes where they go. I have some parts I do not know where they go on the armor. I will list those first. I will then list other parts where I think they go to make sure I don't screw up. Where do these parts go: 9N 9M 6K 6J 6I Belt parts: 9L 10J 10H 6H one part I cannot identify from the pics??? Forearms: 7D 8D Chest Boxes: 9E 9F 9G 9H 9I 9J 9K
  9. I bought my first AP kit back in 2006, I think. It has served me very well. However it has yellowed significantly and has major cracks in the chest plate. I decided it is time to build a new TK kit. I bought AP again because I have been totally satisfied with it. Saturday and today TK4205 came over and we worked on it. We've got all the major parts glued. I prefer to use Devcon Plastic Welder. I must say that TK4205 has a great, easy, build method. Unfortunately I did not take pics as we built it. I used to build my armor by gluing tabs on the inside edge to hold the two parts together. Then I would glue the outer stip over the seam. It turns out it is faster and easier to glue the outer strip first, then add an inner strip for strength. I recommend using strong tape on the side edge to hold the two halves together and then glue the outer tab in place. You can then go back and glue a strip down the seam on the inside to give it more strength. Thighs: I wish I had pics. The thighs are always the hardest part to glue. But the trick is to hold the two halves together at the top with tape on the inside edge. Then glue the strip just a the top. Let it dry. The glue a little further down. Do it in steps. It will pull both haves together and it will work out. It totally does not look like it will come together but it does.
  10. Too funny many years later I'm building my second TK kit (AP) and I'm looking for tips to refresh my memory and come across my own technique on here.
  11. Please roster me for this event. Thanks. Jim Peternel TK8151
  12. Here is a pic of the front sight being heated up to melt the braze joint. I'm afraid I didn't take any pics of me mounting the parts. But for each part drill a small hole in the barrel so that you can insert the metal nub to give you a stronger mounting. I used epoxy. Did you know you can get dye for epoxy? Cool. I used extra epoxy didn't worry if you could see it up close. I call it a weld joint if anyone asks. Here is the PVC barrel with the metal folding stock mounted. I drilled a hole thru the base of the stock to attach it to the barrel. You'll also need to cut a key way in the front of the barrel for the clip to fit in. I also had to sand down the inside of the barrel where the clip goes because its gap is narrower than the barrel. I know that makes no sense but when you get your hands on a real folding stock it will become clear.
  13. Before melting the braze joint on the rear locking mechanism, remove the spring. If you heat the spring you will probably ruin it. There is a little pin that holds it in place. Here's a pic showing the spring removed
  14. Here is the front sight with the outer shell removed. The part you see in this pic just slides out, well kinda slides out, very tight fit. You can also see the (small hole) where the metal mounting nub sat. Here is the magazine well removed. You can see the brass brazing material.
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