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2thin

501st Member[501st]
  • Posts

    59
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About 2thin

Member Title

  • Position
    Centurion

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USF Tampa, Florida
  • Interests
    Prop building, Star Wars, Iron Man, Cosplay, Video Games, Marching Band, Piano, Trumpet.

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    20140929
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Chance
  • 501st ID
    71940
  • 501st Unit
    Florida Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

668 profile views
  1. Nice! No I don't but they look like any standard size LED to me. The small amount of room you have to fit the wires in makes this tricky.
  2. Yeah I guess I got really lucky with all this bs they are causing. Probably cause I was an early orderer and they weren't completely overwhelmed. As for the metal strips, you will need 10. But I'd have a few extra incase you break or bend them too much. I had to use a hammer quite often to straighten them out when they failed to slide in the slits properly.
  3. That was the goal haha let me know if you have any questions.
  4. Finally finished after lots of headaches! I'm overall really happy with how it turned out and will take my own video of it in action eventually
  5. I got a lot done today. The entire main body is basically finished! All I have to do is finish painting the moving part and glue the end cap on. I'm hoping it fits nicely cause getting the lights and wires in while trying to leave enough room for it was kind of a pain! Also here is where the battery and switch are. Where you see the blue is where you need to sand or file down some material to let the cover slide out without too much force.
  6. The complete ones they sell look fine, it'll save you a bunch of headaches. But I'm choosing to build it myself because I want to make it look like it wasn't 3d printed. Plus making it myself ensures that I'll have something I'm happy with in the end. I saw one person wrap some blue neon wire around the end of one of these. It looked cool but I'm not gonna do that.
  7. I figured out the light problem and I cleaned up the uncured Resin coating! Here is the circuit diagram given to me by one of the Blu-bin employees. It is worth noting that it doesnt matter which side is negative or positive, but you HAVE to make sure that all the LEDs are going the same way. You can tell the positive/negative ends of the lights by looking at the length of the thing wires sticking out of them. The circuit starts with the positive long end, the short end connects to the next light's long end.
  8. I'm currently having trouble getting the lights to work. I'm not sure what the problem is yet.
  9. I wondered the same thing too. But judging from the videos I've seen they hold up pretty well. The plastic is really really strong. And I like to think of the connection like a fishing rod, the two parts fit in easily but its difficult to remove it unless pulled straight out. I'll be dumping a lot of epoxy in it.
  10. I sanded some of the parts down and finished the main body section's details and lights. They still need to be wired to a battery, but that's my next step! I made a mistake with the resin coating on the other parts where it didn't cure properly, so Im gonna have to chisel it all off and put a new coat on before I can smooth it out
  11. Dang dude that sucks. Look at the pics I have and see if you have all the parts I do. And it is a huge pain to build but it's coming along alright so far. I'll have more progress photos soon!
  12. So after seeing this video https://www.instagram.com/p/BDhPDornIaO/ I immediately contacted the company called Blu-Bin that makes these in kit form or sells them already assembled. What ultimately sold me on their Z6 is the fact that it has a metal skeleton that makes this thing extremely durable, which could even allow it to be used for dueling. Anyways, after I purchased my kit and got it a few weeks later, I discovered that there was no build tutorial for this thing. I could ask the people at Blu-Bin questions but overall I was on my own. So, I decided to make a build thread so people will be able to get all the info they'd hopefully need and also learn from my mistakes... There are going to be plenty... This is what the kit looks like out of the box and after I removed a lot of the excess plastic support structures The first thing to do after cleaning up the pieces a bit is to put the metal strips through the pieces. This however, is WAYYYYY more a pain in the butt than it sounds! After realizing the strips didn't readily slide through the holes in the pieces, I tried hammering them in, which caused all sorts of problems (cracking/shattering the plastic, bending the metal, etc) and when I found this to be a bad idea, it took me 2 hours of constant and careful chiseling to get the metal back out. The PROPER way to do it after asking on of the Blu-Bin workers for advice, is to take a hacksaw blade and literally saw the ever-living crap out of those slits until you can push the strips through with a bit of effort. I wish I knew this from the beginning. But I'm not exaggerating. Saw those pieces A LOT. After getting the pieces to slide relatively easily through the slits, it was time to put the parts together. I started with the middle section. It is important to measure how long the bars need to be first so you can cut them and then slide them through. You'll want to start with the middle of the three pieces so there is less of a distance for the rest of the parts to slide down, making it harder for the strips to bend and also causing less friction. Measure everything before sliding them together. Also note that one pair of end pieces is shorter than the other pair, they aren't identical. The slightly longer pieces go towards the grip end. Once the metal strips were finally put in and cut right, I made the grip piece by using epoxy, and epoxy putty to fill in the creases. I used epoxy putty to also fill in the shattered plastic from me trying to hammer out stuck metal strips. Next up was making sure the provided LED lights fit through the holes. So I took a drill and widened them to fit. I then decided to fill in the parts using Smooth On's XTC-3D which basically smooths the finish using thinned out epoxy. I got it on Amazon for about 25$ And here's where I am at right now! All the parts got a coat of that smoother stuff and in a day or two I'll sand it down and get the parts ready for paint.
  13. Thanks for the compliments! I have another MR helmet I need to convert into something too lol I just don't know what. This was easier than usual since the ears for ROTJ are glued on rather than screwed on. I filled in the gap using spot putty. http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452663254&sr=8-1&keywords=bondo+spot+putty
  14. This is looking really nice! I just wanted to share my recently finished helmet. I made it from a converted Master Replicas helmet and I know it still needs bubble lenses. And I'm debating whether or not to make the full suit still. -----------
  15. Yes we do it'd be better at some setting in downtown Tampa though during TBCC. I hate having to put all the makeup on and stuff!
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