Tray

Awesome. Nice start so far. I love my T/MC. I'm building my latest T/MC kit into a Death trooper. Then I'll be getting a new kit to build a new TK.

Me too

Kit is looking great Owen. Nice work. Glad the CD helped. Awesome job fitting those ears to the side of the helmet.

hell yes add the inner strips. Butt joining gives you half the gluing surface per side. It also doesn't hurt anything and will certainly give you more durability. Especially if you do anything other than stand around.

I wish I could. I think this will be the first year I can't go since I moved back east in 2008.

I have heard of people using hobby irons. It is a small handheld iron with some sort of cloth protector maybe. I personally have never seen one of them. I've used a hair dryer before. I don't have a heat gun.

belt clips are easy to make. Go to your local hardware store. find the small hobby section that sells all different types of metal and brass pieces. They sell a nice small sheet of metal about 6" x 9"that you can score and cut into 1" - 1 1/8" strips to make your own. You'll want to cut them the 9" length and cut down any extra after you mount to the TD.

Well I have finally started my build. Right now I have only been trimming out my armor to assemble the TK. Then from there I will work on breaking it down to the mangled awesomeness that is the Death Trooper. Pictures to come as they get more interesting.

I wonder if there is a way to incorporate the international symbol? While I only did a search I cannot verify that this is correct. It was found on Wiki.

all material stretches over time so there is a chance you would have to replace strapping at some point anyway. It boils down to accuracy or not.

I might consider doing a different costume first as you aren't really able to troop all events in a death trooper. Remember, ask the event coordinators if the costume is okay to wear before just showing up wearing that. Especially if it is the only one you have.

I used a scoring blade #16 exacto knife to trim the pieces as close as I can. Then used a table sander to finish the edges to the trim lines. Hand sanded the edges with 150+ grit sandpaper to smooth the edges then used a utility knife to remove the burred edges. This gave me a clean smooth edge. The helmet I did with a high speed dremel cutter for roughing out the eyes. The used a sanding wheel on the dremel to finish the eyes to the trim lines. The frown I drew where I wanted to remove the holes and drilled holes all in teh area. Then used a #11 exacto blade to finish the frown. Doing it by hand made sure I did not screw up the helmet. When using a dremel you have to be very very careful. It can get out of control in less than a blink of an eye and ruin the faceplate, or any part, before you even know what happened.

I wear the same kit and the velcro has no problems holding the back of the greaves together as is. I never put a heat gun to anything on my armor except the butt plate to get it to shape my butt better.

Not to push my own kits but T/MC is similar to the AP kits as well. Both are excellent kits.

I don't sit in it. I did let someone wear my kit once and I found out afterwards she sat in it on a stoll to play rock band at an event. I kindly asked her to never do that again and now won't let anyone wear my armor anymore.

hero is a term used for anything that is the best quality item used for up close camera work. stunt are all suits used to run, jump fall and be far from the camera where you aren't worried about details not showing. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

What kind of armor did you get?

I use styrene plastic from the hobby store. You get it by the train section. I use a plastic bottle lid to clamp the plastic down when gluing and it makes it hold very snug and tight to the armor and helps is with the curve areas. I have never had an issue with any of them coming off or loose or break or anything.

I made mine along with a number of other members.

I had my armor maker pull a special 2 piece box for me that would fit the cards and match my armor. I haven't had a chance to build it yet but it should work well when done. My plan is to just have it go on my belt with a strap that wraps around the belt and snaps to the back side of the box. It holds closed and with a little pull it opens up and will stay open to access the cards. The "Door" will pivot forward on rivets that will go through the sides to keep in aligned and stay togehter so it won't fall apart. I'll post a photo if I ever get it finished.

That gap that happens is easy to fix. You will see a lot of people putting a strap that attaches to the kidney and ab plate to hold that together at the top where the belt will hold the bottom. for Centurion you would need to have the snap visible for that strap.

You are doing a great job Nicky. Excellent work. I notice one other thing is your belt drop boxes. typically they are aligned with the outside box on the belt. You can see here that the inside edge aligns wit the inside edge of the outside box. Other than that I would say you should be close to approval. I don't see anything wrong with what you have done including all your recent upgrades.

I'll be there in my TK for the group shots.

You're doing an excellent job Nicky. It is really coming out nice. The little gap on the ear is typical for most helmets including the movie one. Your's isn't bad at all in my opinion.

Ab plate top - My screen derived armor has about 1/4" on it. Chest plate around neck - no return edge. Kidney plate bottom. If it is cut from the butt plate I don't see how a return edge is possible. I do not remember seeing a return edge in the movies. kidney plate top / chest plate bottom - 1/4" on my screen derived armor. Kidney sides - no return edge (correct) top/bottom of each piece - -forearms don't have a return edge at the wrist. I believe some people have one back by the elbow. -Thighs, return edge at top. Bottom should already have a return edge. -Greaves have a return edge at top. No return edge at ankle. -Shoulder bells, slight return edge at the bottom. -biceps have slight return edge at top. Not sure about bottom. Mine does not. cod and butt no return edges around the bottoms of them. This is the best of my knowledge. Whether you have return edges or not shouldn't matter for approval.